LIBRARY FOR 
YOUNG PEOPLE 



\ COLLECTION OF THE BEST READING 
FOR BOYS AND GIRLS 

WALTE R CAM P 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ASSISTED BY THE FOLLOWING EDITORIAL STAFF 



CHARLES WELSH 
ARTHUR T. HADLEY 
BENJAMIN IDE WHEELER 
SIR EDWIN ARNOLD 
ANSON PHELPS STOKES, JR. 
BUSS CARMAN 
CVNTHIA WESTOVER ALDEN 
HOWARD PYLE 
EDWIN KIRK RAWSON 



RICHARD H. DANA 

LIEUTENANT ROBERT E. PEARY 

EDWARD BROOKS 

PROFESSOR W. P. TRENT 

C. G. D. ROBERTS 

HENRY S. PRITCHETT 

OPIE READ 

ABBIE FARWELL BROWN 

NATHAN H. DOLE 



THOMAS WENTWORTH HIGGINSON 

WITH A GENERAL INTRODUCTION BY MELVIL DEWEY 

ARRANGED BY PHILIP P. WELLS OF THE YALE 
LAW UBRARY. AND HARRY T. CUNTON 

ILLUSTRATED IN COLOR AND BLACK AND WHITE 




N EW YORK 

P. F. COLLIER & SON 

M CMIII 



BOARD OF EDITORS 

WALTER CAMP, Editor-in-Chief. 

MELVIL DEWEY, Director of New York State Library. 

PHILIP P. WELLS, Librarian Yale Law School. 

C. G. D. ROBERTS, Editor and Historian. 

CHARLES WELSH, Author, Lecturer, Managing Editor "Young 
Folks' Library." 

ARTHUR T. HADLEY, President Yale University. 

BENJAMIN IDE WHEELER, President University of California. 

SIR EDWIN ARNOLD, Author, Traveller, and Poet. Author of 
"The Light of Asia," etc. 

ANSON PHELPS STOKES, Jr., Author and Educator. Secretary 
Yale University. 

CYNTHIA WESTOVER ALDEN, Author, Editor. Founder Interna- 
" tional Sunshine Society. 

HOWARD PYLE, Artist-Author. Author and Illustrator of "The 
Merry Adventures of Robin Hood." 

EDWARD KIRK RAWSON, Author. Superintendent Naval War 
Records. 

BLISS CARMAN, Journalist and Poet. 

HENRY S. PRITCHETT, President Massachusetts Institute of Tech- 
nology. 

RICHARD HENRY DANA, Lawyer, Author and Lecturer. 

ROBERT E. PEARY, Lieutenant and Civil Engineer, U. S. N. Arctic 
Explorer, Author and Inventor. 

W. P. TRENT, Professor of English Literature, Columbia University. 

ABBIE FARWELL BROWN, Author of Children's Stories. 

EDWARD BROOKS, Author, Superintendent Public Schools of Phila- 
delphia. 

THOMAS WENTWORTH HIGGINSON, Author. 

OPIE READ, Journalist and Author. 

NATHAN H. DOLE, Writer and Translator. 



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Bmateur flDaatc 

-Vol. XIV, p. 45- 



Xibrar^ for l^oung people 

SPORTS AND 
GAMES 



ARRANGED AND EDITED BY 

WALTER CAMP 



ILLUSTRATED BY 

C. M. RELYEA 




NEW YORK 

P. F. COLLIER y SON 

1903 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

Two Copies Reeeiveif 

JUL 29 1903 

Copyright Entry 

CLASS CU XXc. No 

COPY B. 



.C J5- 



Copyright 1903 
By p. F. collier & SON 



INTRODUCTION 




UST a word to those who may prove readers 
of this book. To the children who in an 
idle moment wonder what to do next; to 
the boys and girls who have outgrown 
some of the games of childhood and who are looking 
for more interesting sports and pastimes ; to the young 
men and women who, already suspecting there is a 
more serious side of life, are still as keen as ever for 
out-of-doors, the breath of the fresh air, and the tan- 
ning touch of the sun ; and, finally, to the parents who 
are living over all these things in their children, and 
who are so often asked for suggestions that it some- 
times seems their originality and patience must give 
out. Some parts of this book are meant for each. 

When I first undertook to gather together, into a 
single volume, all the things I should like to tell yau 
about sports and games, and all the suggestions I 
should like to make as to following them up, I found 

that I should notonlyhave a volume, but that I should 

i 

Vol. 14 — I 



Introduction 

have a complete library, with nothing in it except 
sports and games. As I had undertaken for the pub- 
lishers of this Series a set of volumes of which Sports 
and Games should make up one-twentieth, I found 
that my first method could not be followed. Study- 
ing upon the problem with the hope of a satisfactory 
solution, it finally occurred to me that many times I 
myself would have been very grateful if I could have 
found only the name and title of a book on some par- 
ticular sport that I wished to follow. I could then 
procure that book and read all I wanted to in it. This 
suggested the idea that I have adopted in this volume. 
I have taken the main sports and given some outlines 
and suggestions about them. I have tried to put 
clearly as many suggestions for fun, amusement and 
good health as possible within the number of pages 
allotted. Then, in addition, I have added a kind of 
index of books from which a reader may gain the best 
idea of the principles of any sport, and thus make 
himself or herself thoroughly familiar with it. If 
my plan should succeed in disseminating more pleas- 
ure among my friends in school and out, I shall be 
contented. 

I can not leave the subject without some comment 
upon the ethics of sport. It has been my good fortune 
to know so many boys and girls, young men and young 



Introduction 

women who have, in school and college, found such 
worlds of enjoyment in the things that might be called 
outside of the curriculum, that I can not forbear this 
opportunity to talk with them all just a few minutes 
in print. 

In the first place, play fair. Nothing counts more 
than that. Not only does the sport go out of the con- 
test and the sun go behind a cloud, but the very 
chance of winning grows less when any other means 
are considered. The victory is only worth winning 
when it leaves no scar behind. Make the rules strict 
and then live up to them. Don't study to find where 
they can be evaded, but rather to ensure their enforce- 
ment, and then you will have nothing to regret. 

In your games try to give every one a chance. 
Don't make them all games of strength. Don't make 
them all games of skill. Don't get so much enamored 
of any one that you can not see the fun in another. 
But when you go in for a sport in school or college 
follow it up and make the most of yourself. Don't 
be deluded, moreover, by the people who tell you to 
"play only for sport, never mind who wins." That 
spirit might come with the millennium, but I doubt it. 
A good live American boy or girl has a right to win 
and to play to win, and if he is on a team or crew or 

nine, or if she be on a basketball team or golf team, or 

iii 



Introduction 

anything else, where upon individual effort depends 
somewhat the success of others, then that boy or girl 
must play to win. It is not a bad thing to feel a pleas- 
ure in success and a depression in defeat so long as 
neither of these feelings lasts too long. They ought to 
come, and they will. They are part of the training 
and discipline,, of the education and development, 
and without them life at school or college would lose 
a good deal of its savor. Of course there are better 
things than winning, and there are a good many worse 
things than losing, but you don't need a preacher to 
tell you that, and it is generally only the lazy, careless, 
and indifferent who go upon the principle of never 
minding who wins or loses. 

The great physicians, no less among them than 
Sir Morell Mackenzie, have many times taken occa- 
sion to emphasize the statement that exercise should 
have some pleasurable excitement to be of the greatest 
value. Young people and grown folk of the present 
day have come to realize this, and, appreciating the 
fact, are making greater their hours of pleasure and 
profiting thereby. 

To those for whom there is an opportunity I can 

only say. Take as much of your pleasure out of doors 

as possible. There is nothing that can compare with 

fresh air. No amount of gymnasium exercise or in- 

iv 



Introduction 

door amusement can make up for the lack of the real 
benefit which comes from pleasurable sport out of 
doors. Don't keep children in because it is cloudy 
or windy, or because the day seems disagreeable. 
Boys and girls should be out of doors, and it is only 
the exceptional case where, no matter what the 
weather is, the boy or girl is not the better for being 
out every day. 

But the long winter evenings come and there are 
times, as every one knows, for indoor games and 
amusement of all kinds. For these hours certain se- 
lections in this book have been adapted, and if I add 
a few hours of amusement to the time of the boys and 
girls who read this volume, and at the same time do 
not encroach upon the longer hours they all should 
spend out of doors, the ultimate purpose of this vol- 
ume will be achieved. 

Just one word more. Sports and games out of 
doors ought to teach you unselfishness. The narrow, 
cramped, confining four walls of a house ought to be 
forgotten, and with them anything small and con- 
temptible. Growth of the body comes from out-of- 
door exercises and the fresh air and sunshine, and 
with it ought to come growth of the mind, not in the 
sense of book knowledge which the school and even- 
ing reading can furnish, but in the sense of greater 

V 



Introduction 

breadth of view and wider horizon. This may seem 
like preaching, but everybody knows how much 
harder it is to be cross and mean and stingy when out 
of doors than when cooped up in the house. But 
just as you grow strong in body by these out-of-door 
sports through constant exertion, so the mind and 
heart, even though well disposed, should have the 
same amount of exertion along the right lines to make 
them broad and true. So I say, be generous to a 
fault, forget self and selfishness and grow. 

Walter Camp. 



VI 



SPORTS AND GAMES 



CONTENTS 



Indoor Amusements • i 

BLIND man's buff I 

BLIND man's wand 2 

SHADOW BUFF 2 

THE donkey's TAIL 3 

PUSS IN THE CORNER 3 

UP JENKYNS, OR CODDAM 4 

FLY away! 4 

DRAWING-ROOM ACROBATICS 5 

PARLOR FOOTBALL 6 

POTATO RACE 7 

FIRE-BUCKETS -. 7 

HEADS, BODIES, AND TAILS 8 

PICTURES TO ORDER 8 

HANGING 9 

SIMON SAYS II 

PICTURES AND TITLES II 

TOWNS AND PRODUCTS I3 

ROADSIDE WHIST I3 

TWIRL THE TRENCHER I4 

CROSS QUESTIONS AND CROOKED ANSWERS 1 5 

THE FAMILY COACH p , . 16 

ix 



Contents 

Indoor Amusements — (Continued). 

MAGIC MUSIC o o . o . . . 17 

THE DWARF o « . . . . o I7 

dumb crambo , . . i8 

gate's cradle <,........ 19 

MAGIC WRITING o ... 21 

THE "band-box" CHARADE .......... 24 

acting proverbs ..... 32 

shouting proverbs 33 

proverbs 34 

animal,, vegetable, or mineral . 38 

the game of conversation . ......... 39 

rachel and jacob 40 

speculation 4i 

pope joan 42 

beggar my neighbor 44 

Amateur Magic 45 

a plate balanced on a needle 45 

to balance a pencil on its point 45 

to balance an egg on the neck of a bottle .... 46 

the divided rear 46 

to drill a hole with a needle through a pin ... 47 

a startler for a careful housekeeper 48 

to drive a needle through a cent 49 

an acrobatic bottle 49 

pencils balanced in mid-air 5^ 

the shovel and the tongs = .51 

a miniature diving-bell 5^ 

red, white and blue . • • • • 53 



Contents 

Amateur Magic — {Continued). 

a miniature vesuvius 55 

water changed to wine 56 

the performing fish 58 

a queer kind of candlestick 60 

how to weigh a letter with a broomstick . . . . 61 

bewitched soap-bubbles 62 

the camphor scorpion 64 

a novel water engine ,65 

a miniature steamboat 67 

a paper fish made to swim at pleasure ..... 68 

a curious coin trick 7o 

bubble-blowing extraordinary 70 

a play acted in a looking-glass 73 

the tri-colored star 74 

the tight-rope dancer 75 

candle lighting under difficulties ...... yj 

a problem in gymnastics 78 

another gymnastic puzzle 78 

Boating 80 

effect of the wind on a boat 8o 

splices^ knots and tackles 90 

the small open sailing-boat i06 

open boats with boom-sails, and half-decked boats i29 

seamanship i46 

open boat sailing i78 

Rowing 193 

Football 212 

Baseball . . . . 229 

xi 



Contents 

Track Athletics 241 

Swimming ^4o 

Squash Ball ^59 

Lawn Hockey ^"9 

Cricket ^75 

Lawn Bowls • • • • ^5 

Croquet ^9^ 

Ice Hockey . 3^5 

Water Polo 347" 

Table Tennis 357 

Bowling 3P3 

Basketball for Women 37^ 

Lawn Tennis 3^2 

APPENDIX 393 



xu 



SPORTS AND GAMES 



INDOOR AMUSEMENTS 

BLIND man's buff 

r>LIND MAN'S BUFF is one of the best, oldest, 
■^-* and simplest of games. One player is blind- 
folded, is turned round two or three times to confuse 
his ideas as to his position in the room, and is then 
told to catch whom he can. If he catches some one, 
yet can not tell who it is, he must go on again as blind 
man ; but if he can tell who it is, that person is blind- 
folded instead. Where there is a fireplace, or where 
the furniture has sharp corners, it is rather a good 
thing for some one not playing to be on the lookout 
to protect the blind man. Sometimes there are two 
blind men, who add to the fun by occasionally catch- 
ing each other. But this is rather dangerous. There 
is also a game called Jinglers, where every one is 
blind except one player with a bell, whom it is their 
object to catch. But this is more dangerous still. 

A good variety of Blind Man's Bufif is the silent 
one. Directly the man is blindfolded, and before he 
begins to seek, all the players take up positions in 
corners, on chairs, or wherever they think most pru- 

I 



Sports and Games 

dent, and there they must stop without making a 
sound. The task for the blind man is thus not catch- 
ing the others, but, on finding them, deciding upon 
who they are. As chuckling or giggling is more 
likely to tell him than his sense of touch, it is tre- 
mendously important to make no noise if you can 
help it. Sometimes this game is played (without any 
standing on chairs) by a blind man armed with two 
spoons, with which he feels the features of those 
whom he runs against. In this case it is practically 
impossible to avoid laughing. The sensation pro- 
duced by the bowls of two spoons being passed over 
the face in the attempt to recognize its owner is over- 
whelming. 

BLIND man's wand 
Here the blind man has a stick, one end of which 
is grasped by the other players in turn. The blind 
man puts three questions to each player, and his aim 
is to recognize by the voice who it is that replies. 
The aim of the players, therefore, is to disguise their 
voices as much as possible. Sometimes, instead of 
merely asking questions, the blind man instructs the 
holder of the wand to imitate some animal — a cock 
or a donkey, for example. 

SHADOW BUFF 
A sheet is stretched across the room. One player 
stands on one side, and the rest, who remain on the 
other, pass one by one between the sheet and the can- 

1 



Indoor Amusements 

die which throws their shadows upon it. The aim 
of the single player is to put right names to the 
shadows on the sheet, and the aim of the others is, 
by performing antics, to keep him from recognizing 
them. If it is not convenient to use both sides of a 
sheet, the single player may sit on a hassock close to 
it w^ith his back to the others, while they pass be- 
tween his hassock and the candle. 

THE donkey's tail 
A good-sized donkey without a tail is cut out of 
brown paper and fixed on a screen or on a sheet hung 
across the room. The tail is cut out separately and a 
hatpin is put through that end of it which comes 
nearest the body. Each player in turn then holds 
the tail by the pin, shuts his eyes honestly, and, ad- 
vancing to the donkey, pi;is the tail in what he be- 



mistake. 



lieves to be the^j^ght pl-adip The fun li^in his 

f^J ^.^U^S IN TOE CORNER 



EacfSfe^yer save One takes a corner. The other, 
who isjhe puss, stands in the middle. The game be- 
gins by one corner player beckoning to another to 
change places. Their object is to get safely into each 
A)ther's corner before the cat can. Puss's aim is to 
find a corner unprotected. If she does so, the player 
who has just left it, or the player who was hoping to 
be in it, becomes puss, according to whether or not 
they have crossed 4^ their journey. 



Sports and Games 

UP JENKYNS, OR CODDAM 

The players sit on opposite sides of a table, or in 
two opposite rows of chairs with a cloth spread over 
their laps. A sixpence or other small object is then 
passed about among the hands of one of the sides 
under the table or cloth. At the word "Up Jenkyns !" 
called by the other side, all these hands tightly 
clenched must be at once placed in view on the table 
or the cloth. The first player on the other side then 
carefully scans the faces of his opponents to see if any 
one bears an expression which seems to betray his 
possession of the sixpence, and, having made up his 
mind, reaches over and touches the hand in which 
he hopes the sixpence is, saying, "Tip it." The hand 
is then opened. If the guess is right the guessing side 
take the sixpence and hide it. If wrong, the same 
side hide it again, and the second player on the guess- 
ing side tries his luck at discovering its whereabouts. 
A score is decided on before the game begins, and the 
winning side is that which first makes that number of 
right guesses. 

FLY away! 

The player who is chosen as leader sits down and 
places the first finger of her right hand on her knee. 
The others crowd round her and also place the first 
finger of their right hands on her knee, close to hers. 
The game is for the leader to raise her finger sud- 
denly, saying, "Fly away [something]." If that 

4 



Indoor Amusements 

something is not capable of flight the other fingers 
must not move, but if it can fly they must rise also. 
Thus, "Fly away, thrush!" "Fly away, pigeon!" "Fly 
away, butterfly!" should cause all the fingers to spring 
up. But of "Fly away, omnibus!" "Fly away, cat!" 
"Fly away, pig!" no notice should be taken. The 
game is, of course, to catch players napping. 

DRAWING-ROOM ACROBATICS 
There are various feats which can be performed 
in a small room without injury to furniture. To lie 
flat on the floor on one's back and be lifted into an 
upright position by a pair of hands under the back of 
the head, keeping stiff all the time, is a favorite ac- 
complishment. Another is to bend over and touch 
the floor with the tips of the fingers without bending 
the knees. Another is, keeping your feet behind a 
line, to see who, by stretching along the ground sup- 
ported on the left hand only, can place a penny with 
the right hand the furthest distance and get back 
again to an upright position behind the line without 
moving the feet or using the right hand for a sup- 
port. The penny must be recovered in the same way. 
Another feat is, keeping your feet together and 
one arm behind you, to see how far back from the 
wall it is possible to place your feet (remembering 
that you have to get into an upright position again) 
while you lean forward supported by the other hand 
laid flat against the wall. 

5 



sports and Games 

Another is to keep the toes to a line, and kneel 
down and get up again without using the hands. 

Another is to make a bridge of your body from 
chair to chair, resting the back of your neck on one 
and your heels on the other. This is done by begin- 
ning with three chairs, one under the back, and then 
when you are rigid enough having the third one re- 
moved. 

If you hold your hands across your chest in a 
straight line with the tips of the forefingers pressed 
together, it will be impossible for any one else, how- 
ever strong, to hold by your arms and pull those 
finger-tips apart. 

It is quite safe to stand a person against the wall 
with his heels touching it, and, laying a shilling on 
the floor a foot or so in front of him, to say it will be 
his if he can pick it up without moving his heels from 
the wall. 

Another impossible thing is to stand sidewise 
against the wall with your left cheek, left heel, and 
left leg touching it, and then raise the right leg. 

PARLOR FOOTBALL 
In this game goals are set up at each end of the 
room, the players are provided with fans, and the 
football is a blown hen's egg, which is wafted back- 
ward and forward along the floor. An air-ball 
would also do, but in that case the goal should be 
scored in the Rugby way — over instead of through. 

6 



Indoor Amusements 

POTATO RACE 
This is a good game for a hall or landing. Two 
baskets are needed, which are placed at one end of 
the hall about two yards apart, and then in a line 
from each basket are placed potatoes, at intervals of 
a yard or so all down the floor, an equal number to 
each line. Any even number of competitors can play, 
the race being run in heats. Each competitor is 
armed with a long spoon, and his task is to pick up 
all the potatoes on his line and return them to the 
basket before his opponent can. Each potato must 
be carried to the basket in turn, and if dropped on the 
way must be picked up again before another can be 
touched, and the spoon only must be used. Any help 
from the other hand or from the foot disqualifies. 

FIRE-BUCKETS 
At a fire in the country, where there is no hose, a 
line of men extends from the burning house to the 
nearest pond, and buckets are continually being 
passed along this line. Hence the name by which 
this excellent game is called here. It is played thus. A 
large number of miscellaneous and unbreakable arti- 
cles — balls, boots, potatoes, books, and so on — are di- 
vided into two exactly equal groups, and each group 
is placed in a clothes basket. The company then forms 
into two equal lines, and each chooses a captain. Each 
captain stands by the basket at one end of his line, at 
the other end being a chair and another player stand- 

7 



sports and Games 

ing by that. At the word "Start," the articles are 
handed one by one by the captain to the first player in 
the line, and passed as quickly as possible without 
dropping to the player by the chair. As they come 
to him he piles them on the chair (without dropping 
any) until all are there, and then returns them with 
equal speed until the basket is filled again. The side 
which finishes first is the winner. If an article is 
dropped it must be picked up before any other of the 
articles can pass the player who dropped it. 

HEADS, BODIES, AND TAILS 
For this game sheets of paper are handed round 
and each player draws at the top of his sheet a head. 
It does not matter in the least whether it is a human 
being's or a fish's head, a quadruped's, a bird's, or 
an insect's. The paper is then turned down, two little 
marks are made to show where the neck and body 
should join, and the paper is passed on for the body 
to be supplied. Here again it does not matter what 
kind of body is chosen. The paper is then folded 
again, marks are made to show where the legs (or 
tail) ought to begin, and the paper is passed on again. 
After the legs are drawn the picture is finished. 

PICTURES TO ORDER 
Each player sits, pencil in hand, before a blank 
sheet of paper, his object being to make a picture con- 
taining things chosen by the company in turn. The 

8 



Indoor Amusements 

first player then names the thing that he wants in the 
picture. Perhaps it is a tree. He therefore says, 
"Draw a tree," when all the players, himself in- 
cluded, draw a tree. Perhaps the next says, "Draw a 
boy climbing the tree"; the next, "Draw a balloon 
caught in the top branches" ; the next, "Draw two lit- 
tle girls looking up at the balloon" ; and so on, until 
the picture is full enough. The chief interest of this 
game resides in the difficulty of finding a place for 
everything that has to be put in the picture. A com- 
parison of the drawings afterward is usually amusing. 

HANGING 
This is a quite difficult game, very suitable for a 
tiring journey. The two players sit side by side, and 
one of them dots out on a piece of paper the words of 
a proverb or well-known line of poetry. Thus, "I 
met a little cottage girl" would be set down so: 



Underneath this a small gallows is erected. Thus 



The game is for the other player to discover the 
line. In order to do this he is permitted to ask his 

9 



sports and Games 

opponent for letters. Perhaps he will begin by ask- 
ing, "May I have an 'a,' " because there are few sen- 
tences that do not contain an "a." His opponent will 
then put the first "a" in. Thus : 



Then perhaps another "a" will be asked for, and the 
line will come out thus : 



Then perhaps an "e" : 
. e . a . , 



So far all has gone favorably with the guesser, 
and the gallows is still untouched. But perhaps he 
will now venture to ask for a consonant (which is 
much more risky than a vowel), and will say, "May 
I have an 's'?" As there is no "s" in the line the reply 
will be against it, and the opponent will at once ap- 
pend to the rope of the gallows a small head. Thus : 



/ 



o 



This means that the guesser has lost one out of a possi- 
ble six points, the others being his body, his two arms 
and two legs. For each letter he asks for in vain he 
loses one of these, and when all have gone he has lost 

lO 



Indoor Amusements 

the game too. Sometimes, however, the quotation 
can be detected very quickly. 

SIMON SAYS 
Seat yourselves in a circle and choose one of the 
company to be the leader, or Simon. His duty is to 
order all sorts of different things to be done, the fun- 
nier the better, which must be obeyed only when the 
order begins with "Simon says." As, for instance, 
"Simon says: 'Thumbs up!'" which, of course, all 
obey; then perhaps comes: "Thumbs down!" which 
should not be obeyed, because the order did not com- 
mence with "Simon says." 

Each time this rule is forgotten a forfeit must be 
paid. "Hands over eyes," "Stamp the right foot," 
"Pull the left ear," etc., are the kind of orders to be 
given. 

PICTURES AND TITLES 
Each player draws on the upper half of the paper 
a historical scene, whether from history proper or 
from family history, and appends the title, writing it 
along the bottom of the paper and folding it over. 
The drawings are then passed on and each player 
writes above the artist's fold (or on another sheet of 
paper) what he thinks they are meant to represent, 
and folds the paper over what he has written. In the 
accompanying example the title at the bottom of the 
paper is what the draughtsman himself wrote; the 
others are the other players' guesses. 

II 



sports and Games 




Various Descriptions by the Players 

The Abbot of Christchurch, near Bournemouth, surveys 
the scaffolding of the abbey. 

The end of the Paris Exhibition. 

An old man coming back to the home of his childhood, 
looks across the river, where a duck is swimming, to the 
dilapidated cathedral and town which represent the stately 
piles he remembered. 

The building of the Ark. 

The Artist's Description 
The Last Man surveying the ruins of the Crystal Palace. 

12 



Indoor Amusements 

TOWNS AND PRODUCTS 

This is a somewhat similar game bearing on geog- 
raphy. Suppose there are three players. One 
chooses a well-known place, say Boston, and begins, 
"I know a place where they sell boots," or whatever 
it may be beginning with B. The next player then 
knows what letter the place begins with and at once 
starts thinking of what place it is likely to be. Per- 
haps she settles on Birmingham, in which case she 
would say, to indicate that the second letter of the 
word was "I," "I know a place where they sell isin- 
glass" (or icicles, or ingle-nooks). "No," says the 
first player, and the third therefore has to try. Per- 
haps she decides that the place is Brighton, in which 
case she will say, "I know a place where they sell 
rockets" (or rump-steak, or raisins). "No," says the 
first player again, and then it being her turn she gives 
them another light on the right word by saying, "I 
know a place where they sell oranges" (or oil, or 
ocarinas), and so on, until the place is spelled 
through 

ROADSIDE WHIST 

In the Channel Islands visitors riding about in 
large wagonettes pass the time by playing a game 
called Roadside Whist. The people on the left seat 
of the carriage take the right side of the road, and 
those on the right seat take the left. The conductor 
teaches them the rules at the beginning of the drive. 

13 



Sports and Games 



In our case it is better perhaps to make them for 
ourselves, to suit our own particular country. Let us 
suppose that — 



If you see 

A baby in arms you score 

A baby in a perambulator 

A white horse 

A ladder against a house 

A woman in a white apron 

A butcher's cart 

A street gate 

A postman 



Then there should be a few things for which 
marks have to be taken off. Let us suppose that — 



If you see 
A pug dog 
A piebald horse 
An open gate 
A flock of sheep 
A soldier 



you lose 



2 

4 

2 

3 

ID 



No matter what the score is, whichever side sees 
a cat on a window-ledge wins the game. 

TWIRL THE TRENCHER 

This is a game which almost any number of chil- 
dren can play. 

The players seat themselves in a circle, and each 
takes the name of some town, or flower, or whatever 



Indoor Amusements 

has been previously agreed upon. One of the party 
stands in the middle of the circle, with a small 
wooden trencher, or waiter, places it upon its edge, 
and spins it, calling out as he does so the name which 
one of the players has taken. The person named 
must jump up and seize the trencher before it ceases 
spinning, but if he is not very quick the trencher will 
fall to the ground, and he must then pay a forfeit. It 
is then his turn to twirl the trencher. 

A very similar game to this is "My Lady's Toi- 
let." The only difference is that each player must 
take the name of some article of a lady's dress, such 
as shawl, earring, brooch, bonnet, etc. 

CROSS QUESTIONS AND CROOKED ANSWERS 
To play this game it is best to sit in a circle, and 
until the end of the game no one must speak above a 
whisper. 

The first player whispers a question to his neigh- 
bor, such as: "Do you like roses?" This question 
now belongs to the second player, and he must re- 
member it. 

The second player answers: "Yes, they smell so 
sweetly," and this answer belongs to the first player. 
The second player now asks his neighbor a question, 
taking care to remember the answer, as it will belong 
to him. Perhaps he has asked his neighbor, "Are 
you fond of potatoes? And the answer may have 
been, "Yes, when they are fried!" 

15 



sports and Games 

So that the second player has now a question and 
an answer belonging to him, which he must remem- 
ber. 

The game goes on until every one has been asked 
a question and given an answer, and each player must 
be sure and bear in mind that it is the question he is 
asked, and the answer his neighbor gives, which be- 
longs to him. 

At the end of the game each player gives his ques- 
tion and answer aloud, in the following manner. 

"I was asked: 'Do you like roses?' and the answer 
was : 'Yes, when they are fried !' " The next player 
says: "I was asked: 'Are you fond of potatoes?' and 
the answer was : 'Yes, they are very pretty, but they 
don't wear well.' " / 

■t 

THE FAMILY COACH 

This is a very good old game, and is most amus- 
ing if you can find some one who is a good story- 
teller. 

The players sit in a circle and every one, except 
the story-teller, takes the name of some part of a 
coach or its equipments; for instance: door, step, 
wheels, reins, box-seat, and so on. 

When all are ready the story-teller begins a tale 
about an old coach and what happened to it, how it 
went on a journey, came to grief, was mended, and 
started off again. 

The story should be told fluently, but not too 

i6 



Indoor Amusements 

quickly. Every time any part of the coach is men- 
tioned, the player who has taken that name must rise 
from his seat, and then sit down again. 

Whenever "the coach" is mentioned, all the play- 
ers, with the exception of the story-teller, must rise. 
Any one who fails to keep these rules must pay a for- 
feit. 

MAGIC MUSIC 

One of the players is sent out of the room, and the 
rest then agree upon some simple task for her to per- 
form, such as moving a chair, touching an ornament, 
or finding some hidden object. She is then called in 
and some one begins to play the piano. If the per- 
former plays very loudly the "seeker" knows that she 
is nowhere near the object she is to search for. When 
the music is soft, then she knows she is very near, and 
when the music ceases altogether, she knows that she 
has found the object she was intended to look for. 

THE DWARF 

This is a most amusing game if well carried out. 
The two performers must be hidden behind two cur- 
tains in front of which a table has been placed. 

One of the performers slips his hands into a 
child's socks and little shoes. He must then disguise 
his face, by putting on a false mustache, painting his 
eyebrows, sticking pieces of black court plaster over 
one or two of his teeth, which will make it appear as 
though he has lost several teeth. This, with a tur- 

17 



sports and Games 

ban on his head, will prove a very fair disguise. The 
second performer must now stand behind the first 
and pass his arms round him, so that the second per- 
former's hands may appear like the hands of the 
dwarf, while the first performer's hands make his 
feet. The figure must, of course, be carefully 




dressed, and the body of the second performer hidden 
behind the curtains. 

The front player now puts his slippered hands 
upon the table and begins to keep time, while the 
other performer follows suit with his hands. 

The Dwarf can be used either to tell fortunes, 
make jokes, or ask riddles, and if the performers act 
their parts well, the guests will laugh very heartily. 



DUMB CRAMBO 
Divide the company into two equal parts, one 
half leaving the room; the remaining players should 

i8 



Indoor Amusements 

then select a word, which will have to be guessed by 
those outside the door. When the word has been 
chosen — say, for instance, the word "will" — the party 
outside the room are told that the word they are to 
guess rhymes with "till." A consultation then takes 
place, and they may think that the word is "ill." The 
company then enter and begin to act the word "ill," 
but without speaking a word. The audience, when 
they recognize the word that is being performed, 
w^ill immediately hiss, and the actors then retire and 
think of another word. 

Thus the game goes on until the right word is hit 
upon, when the company who have remained in the 
room, clap their hands. The audience then change 
places with the actors. 

cat's cradle 
Take a piece of string and knot the ends together 
and slip it over your hands, as in Fig. i. 





Next wind the string round your hands, not in- 
cluding the thumb, as in Fig. 2. 





Slip the second fingers through the string on 

'9 



sports and Games 

your hands and you have your cat's cradle, as in 
Fig. 3- . 




You must now ask a second person to put his 
thumbs and first fingers through the cradle, as in 
Fig. 4. 




Draw out the string and take it under the cradle, 
and you will have Fig. 5. 




Slip the thumbs and first fingers again into the 
side pieces of the cradle, draw the string sidewise 
and take it under the cradle, and you will have Fig. 6. 

20 



Indoor Amusements 




Now curl the little fingers round the string, slip- 
ping one under the other as shown, and draw out the 
side pieces. 





Slip the thumb and first fingers under the side 
string, bring them up the middle, and you have your 
original cat's cradle again. 




MAGIC WRITING 
In this game a confederate is necessary. The 
player states to the company, after a few remarks on 
ancient sign-language, that he is able to read signs 



21 

Vol. 14 — 2 



Sports and Games 

made with a stick on the floor, and agrees to leave the 
room while the company decide upon some word or 
sentence. 

The game is played as follows: It is agreed by the 
player and his confederate that one tap on the floor 
shall represent A, two taps E, three taps I, four taps 
O, and five taps U, and that the first letter of each 
remark the confederate makes shall be one of the con- 
sonants of the word or sentence decided upon by the 
company. The consonants must be taken in order. 
On the player's return, supposing the word chosen to 
be "March," his confederate would commence: 
''Many people think this game a deception" (initial 
letter M). One tap on the floor (A). "Really it is 
very simple" (initial letter R). "Coming to the end 
soon" (initial letter C). "Hope it has been quite 
clear" (initial letter H). 

A few more signs are made so as not to finish too 
abruptly, and the player then states the word to be 
"March." If carefully conducted, this game will 
interest an audience for a considerable time. 



22 



Indoor Amusements 

CHARADES 

A BACK DRAWING-ROOM with folding doors makes 
a very nice theatre for acting charades. Almost any- 
thing may be used for dressing-up — shawls, anti- 
macassars, tablecloths, handkerchiefs, cast-off dresses, 
or a dressing-gown. The latter is a very useful gar- 
ment in representing an old gentleman, while tow or 
white fire shavings make excellent wigs. 

The great thing in a charade is to try and puzzle 
your audience as much as you can. You must choose 
a word of two or more syllables, such as "Bagpipe." 
First you must act the word "Bag." and be sure that 
the word is mentioned, though you must be careful to 
bring it in in such a way that the audience shall not 
guess it is, the word you are acting. 

Next comes the word "Pipe," and this must be 
brought in in the same manner. When you have 
acted the two syllables, you must act the whole: 
"Bagpipe." 

Before beginning the charade you should arrange 
who is to bring in the charade word or syllable. You 
must also settle what you are going to say, or at least, 
what the act is to be about. Let every scene be well 
thought out and be as short as possible. You must be 
as quick as ever you can between the acts, for all the 
fun will be spoiled if you keep your audience wait- 
ing. If you have no curtain or screen the actors must 
simply walk off the stage at the ends of the scenes. 

23 



Sports and Games 

To act charades well one requires a little practice, 
and plenty of good temper, for, of course, only one or 
two can take principal parts, and therefore some of 
the children must be content to take the smaller ones. 
It is a good plan to take it in turns to play the best 
parts, and if the elder children are kind and thought- 
ful, they will try to make some easy little parts, so 
that their younger brothers and sisters may also join 
in the fun. Here we give you a very simple charade, 
the words of which you may learn, and then act, after 
which you will very likely be able to make up cha- 
rades for yourselves. 

THE "band-box" charade 
Scene i : A Street 
This can be made by placing a row of chairs with 
open backs near the wall facing the audience; a child 
is stationed behind each chair, and, looking through 
the open back, pretends to be looking out of a win- 
dow. 

BAND 
ist Child behind chair.— Oh! dear, how dull our 
street always is. I declare nothing nice ever comes 

this way. 

2d Child.— No, I quite agree with you. Why, I 
haven't seen a "Punch and Judy" for months. I wish 
my mother would go and live in another street. 

3d Child.— Never mind, let us go out and have a 

game. 

24 



Indoor Amusements 

(Enter five or six children — or a lesser num- 
ber, if more convenient — carrying toy musi- 
cal instruments.) 
I St Child. — Hurrah! Here comes a German 
Band. Come along children; let's go and listen to it. 
(The band groups itself at the end of the street, 
and the children stand round. After tuning 
up, the band begins to play.) 
2d Child. — Now, Mary Jane, we can dance. I'll 
dance with you. 

3d Child. — No, / want to dance with Mary Jane, 
ist Child. — I don't want to dance at all. 
2d Child. — You must. 
3d Child. — ^Yes, you must. 

(Band ceases playing and one of the bandsmen 
comes round for money.) 
ist Child. — I haven't any money. 
2d Child. — ^But we haven't begun to dance yet. 
Bandsman. — You shouldn't have been so long 
arguing then. Surely you'll give the band a penny, 
after all the pretty music it has played? 
ist Child. — I won't. 
2d Child. — ^7 won't. 
3d Child. — And 7 wont. 

Bandsman. — Well, you are mean. Come along. 
(Beckoning to the rest of the band.) We'll go, and 
it will be a long time before vv^e come down this street 
again. 

Curtain falls. 
25 



Sports and Games 

BOX 
Scene 2: A Room 
Tommy (hopping about the room, waving a let- 
ter in his hand).— Hurrah! hurrah! Uncle Dick is 
coming. Hurrah! hurrah! 

(Enter Tommy's brother and sister and papa 
and mamma.) 
Papa.— What's the matter, Tommy? 
Tommy.— Uncle Dick has written to say he is 
coming to spend Christmas with us, and he is brings 
iag me a Christmas box. 

Mamma.— How kind of him! But be sure you 
are careful not to ofifend him. Tommy. He is rather 
a touchy old gentleman. 

Sister.— I wonder what it will be. Tommy. 
Brother.— I hope it will be a set of cricket things, 
and then we can play cricket in the summer. 

Tommy.— Oh! yes, I hope it will be, but what- 
ever it is, it is sure to be something nice. 

(Begins hopping about again. Enter Uncle 
Dick, a very old gentleman with a gouty 
foot. Tommy does not see him and goes 
banging into him, treading on his gouty 
foot.) 
Uncle Dick.— Oh ! oh ! oh ! oh, my toe ! 
Tommy.— Oh! Never mind your toe! Where's 
my Christmas box? 

Uncle Dick.— Your Christmas box, you young 

scamp ! Think of my toe. 

26 



Indoor Amusements 

Tommy. — Please, Uncle, I'm very sorry, but I do 
so want to know what you have brought me for a 
Christmas box. 

Uncle Dick (roaring). — Here's your Christmas 
box, and may it teach you to be more careful in fu- 
ture. (Boxes Tommy's ears.) 

Curtain falls. 

BAND-BOX i 

Scene 3 : Milliner's Shop 

Mistress (to new apprentice). — Now, Mary, you 

must take Lady Fasion's new bonnet home, and be 

sure you wait to hear if her ladyship approves of it. 

Mary. — Yes, madam, and what shall I say if she 

doesn't? 

Mistress. — Oh! you must listen to what she has to 
say and then answer: "Very good, your ladyship; the 
alterations shall be made." Now, take the bonnet 
and go. (Mary takes the bonnet and prepares to 
start.) You don't mean to say you are going to take 
it like that? 

Mary. — ^Why not, madam? 

Mistress. — You must wrap it up, of course. 

(Mistress busies herself with other bonnets 
while Mary wraps up the bonnet in a news- 
paper.) 
Mary. — Is that right, madam? 
Mistress. — Good gracious! no; the idea of taking 
home her ladyship's bonnet in a newspaper. You 

27 



Sports and Games 

must put it in a band-box with some nice, soft paper. 
Here, give the bonnet to me and I will pack it up. 
(Mistress packs up the bonnet and gives the 
box to Mary, who goes off stage.) 
Mistress. — Well, I'm sure. I hope that girl will 
make no more mistakes, but really she is too trying 
for anything, and I'm afraid she will never make a 
good milliner. Fancy a milliner who doesn't know 
the use of a band-box! Ha! ha! ha! Oh! it is too 
funny for anything. 

Exit laughing, and curtain falls. 

Here is a list of words which will divide easily 
into charade words: 

Brides-maids Rail-way Port-man-teau (toe) 

Hand-some Cur-tail In-no-cent 

Mad-cap Sweet-heart Hand-i(I)-craft 

Sea-side Fox-glove A-bun-dance 

Key-hole Nose-gay Car-pen-try 

Pat-riot Turn-key In-do-lent 

To make your charades a real success, you will of 
course require a curtain. A very effective one can be 
made with a little trouble and at a small cost; indeed, 
the materials may be already in the house. 

First you must fix a couple of supports on each 
side of the room, taking care that they are screwed 
firmly into the wall and also taking care not to dam- 
age the paper. 

28 



Indoor Amusements 

If you are a neat workman, you will find on tak- 
ing out the screws that the two small screw-holes on 
each side will scarcely be noticed, as of course the 
supports must be fixed very near the ceiling. 

You must then put up your curtain-pole, which 
should be as thin as possible, so that the rings may run 
easily. A cheap bamboo pole is the best. 

Two wide, deep curtains are required; very 
likely the nursery curtains may be suitable. 

On to these curtains you sew a number of small 
brass rings, which you can buy for about five cents a 
dozen, or even less. 

The rings should be sewn on the curtains, as you 
see in the illustration, right across the top, and from 
the extreme top corner of the curtain, slantingwise 
across to the middle. 

The top rings are passed along the curtain-pole, a 
string (marked in the illustration Ai) is sewn on to 
the curtain, and threaded through the rings until it 
reaches A2. It is then threaded through the rings 
on the pole until it reaches A3, when it is allowed to 
fall loose. 

The same arrangement is gone through with 
string B. The bottom of the curtain must be 
weighted with shot, or any other weights that may 
be convenient. 

When the curtain is to be raised, the stage man- 
ager and his assistant stand on each side of the stage 
with the strings ready in their hands, and at a given 

29 



sports and Games 

signal — the ringing of a bell is the usual sign that all 
is ready — they each p.uU a string, and the curtains 




glide to each side, and may be fixed to hooks, put up 
on purpose. 

30 



Indoor Amusements 



When the curtain is to fall, the two in charge of it 




must simply loosen the strings and let them go, and 
the weights cause the curtains to fall to the centre. 

31 



Sports and Games 

All sorts of useful and ornamental "properties" 
may be made at home for a very small cost. Card- 
board, and gold and silver paper, and glue go a long 
way toward making a good show. 

Swords, crowns, belts, gold-spangled and gold- 
bordered robes can be made from these useful ma- 
terials, and look first-rate at a distance. 

An old black dress with little gold stars glued or 
gummed to the material would make an excellent 
dress for a queen. The swords or belts must first be 
cut out in cardboard, then covered with gold or sil- 
ver paper. 

To make a good wig, you should shape a piece of 
calico to fit the head! then sew fire shavings or tow all 
over it. If you wish for a curly wig, it is a good plan 
to wind the shavings or tow tightly round a ruler, and 
tack it along with a back stitch, which will hold the 
curl in position after you have slipped it off the ruler. 

These few hints will give you some idea of the 
very many different costumes which can be made by 
children out of the simplest materials. 

ACTING PROVERBS 
The best way to play this game is for the players 
to divide themselves into two groups, namely, actors 
and audience. Each one of the actors should then fix 
upon a proverb, which he will act, in turn, before the 
audience. As, for instance, supposing one of the 
players to have chosen the proverb, "A bad workman 

3* 



Indoor Amusements 

quarrels with his tools," he should go into the room 
where the audience is seated, carrying with him a 
bag in which there is a saw, a hammer, or any other 
implement or tool used by a workman; he should 
then look round and find a chair, or some other arti- 
cle, which he should pretend requires repairing; he 
should then act the workman, by taking off his coat, 
rolling up his sleeves, and commencing work, often 
dropping his tools, and grumbling about them. 

If this game be acted well, it may be made very 
entertaining. Sometimes the audience are made to 
pay a forfeit each time they fail to guess the proverb. 

SHOUTING PROVERBS 

This is rather a noisy game. One of the company 
goes outside the door, and during his absence a pro- 
verb is chosen and a word of it is given to each mem- 
ber of the company. When the player who is out- 
side re-enters the room, one of the sompany counts 
"One, two, three," then all the company simultane- 
ously shout out the word that has been given to him 
or her of the proverb that has been chosen. 

If there are more players present than there are 
words in the proverb, two or three of them must have 
the same word. The effect of all the company shout- 
ing out together is very funny. All that is necessary 
is for the guesser to have a sharp ear; then he is 
pretty sure to catch a word here and there that will 
give him the key to the proverb. 

33 



Sports and Games 

PROVERBS 

This is a very interesting game, and can be played 
by a large number at the same time. Supposing 
there are twelve persons present, one is sent out of the 
room, while the others choose a proverb. When this 
is done the "guesser" is allowed to come in, and he 
asks each person a question separately. In the an- 
swer, no matter what question is asked, one word of 
the proverb must be given. For illustration we will 
take "A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush." 

I. John must use the word "A" in his answer. 
2. Gladys, "bird" in hers. 3. Nellie, "in" in hers. 
4. Tommy, "the" in his. 5. Estelle, "hand" in hers. 
6. Ivy, "is" in hers. 7. Wilfrid, "worth" in his. 
8. Lionel, "two" in his. 9. Vera, "in" in hers. 10. 
Bertie, "the" in his. 11. Harold, "bush" in his. 

The fun becomes greater if the answers are given 
quickly and without allowing the special word to be 
noticed. It often happens that the "guesser" has to 
try his powers over several times before succeeding. 
The one who by giving a bad answer gives the clew, 
in turn becomes guesser, and is then obliged to go out 
of the room while another proverb is chosen. 

Here is a list of proverbs : 

A bad workman quarrels with his tools. , 

A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush. 

A cat may look at a king. 

Aching teeth are ill tenants. 

A creaking door hangs long on the hinges. 

34 



Indoor Amusements 

A drowning man will catch at a straw. 
After dinner sit a while, after supper walk a mile. 
A friend in need is a friend indeed. 
A good servant makes a good master. 
A good word is as soon said as an evil one. 
A little leak will sink a great ship. 
All are not friends that speak us fair. 
All are not hunters that blow the horn. 
All is fish that comes to the net. 
All is not gold that glitters. 
All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. 
A penny saved is a penny earned. 
A pitcher goes often to the well, but is broken at 
last. 

A rolling stone gathers no moss. 
A small spark makes a great fire. 
A stitch in time saves nine. 
As you make your bed, so you must lie on it. 
As you sow, so you shall reap. 
A tree is known by its fruit. 
A wilful man will have his way. 
A willing mind makes a light foot. 
A word before is worth two behind. 
A burden which one chooses is not felt. 
Beggars have no right to be choosers. 
Be slow to promise and quick to perform. 
Better late than never. 
Better to bend than to break. 
Birds of a feather flock together. 

35 



Sports and Games 

Care killed a cat. 

Catch the bear before you sell his skin. 
Charity begins at home, but does not end there. 
Cut your coat according to your cloth. 
Do as you would be done by. 
Do not halloo till you are out of the wood. 
Do not spur a willing horse. 
Early to bed and early to rise makes a man 
healthy, wealthy, and wise. 

Empty vessels make the greatest sound. 
Enough is as good as a feast. 
Faint heart never won fair lady. 
Fine feathers make fine birds. 
Fine words butter no parsnips. 
Fire and water are good servants, but bad masters. 
Grasp all, lose all. 
Half a loaf is better than no bread. 
Handsome is as handsome does. 
Happy is the wooing that is not long in doing. 
He that goes a-borrowing goes a-sorrowing. 
Hiders are good finders. 
Home is home though it be ever so homely. 
Honesty is the best policy. 
If wishes were horses, beggars would ride. 
It is an ill wind that blows nobody good. 
It is never too late to learn. 
It is not the cowl that makes the friar. 
It is a long lane that has no turning. 
It's a good horse that never stumbles. 

36 



Indoor Amusements 

It's a sad heart that never rejoices. 

Ill weeds grow apace. 

Keep a .thing for seven years, and you will find a 
use for it. 

Kill two birds with one stone. 

Lazy folks take the most pains. 

Let sleeping dogs lie. 

Let them laugh that win. 

Make hay while the sun shines. 

Many a true word is spoken in jest. 

Many hands make light work. 

Marry in haste, repent at leisure. 

Never look a gift horse in the mouth. 

Necessity is the mother of invention. 

Old birds are not to be caught with chafif. 

Old friends and old wine are best. 

One swallow makes not a spring, nor one wood- 
cock a winter. 

People who live in glass houses should never 
throw stones. 

Possession is nine points of the law. 

Procrastination is the thief of time. 

Short reckonings make long friends. 

Safe bind, safe find. 

Strike while the iron is hot. 

Take care of the pence and the pounds will take 
care of themselves. 

The cobbler's wife is the worst shod. 

The more the merrier, the fewer the better cheer. 

37 



sports and Games 



The darkest hour is just before the daylight. 
There's njany a slip 'twixt the cup and the lip. 
There's a silver lining to every cloud. 
Those who play with edge tools must expect to be 
cut. 

Time and tide wait for no man. 

Too many cooks spoil the broth. 

Union is strength. 

Waste not, want not. 

What the eye sees not the heart rues not. 

When rogues fall out honest men get their own. 

When the cat's away, the mice play. 

Wilful waste makes woful want. 

You can not eat your cake and have it also. 

ANIMAL, VEGETABLE, OR MINERAL 
This is a capital game for a large party, for it is 
both instructive and amusing. One player is selected 
who has to guess what word or sentence the remain- 
der of the company has chosen. He goes out of the 
room, and when the subject has been decided upon, 
returns and asks a question of each of the company in 
turn. The answer must be either "Yes" or "No," and 
in no case should more words be used, under penalty 
of paying a forfeit. The first important point to be 
found out is whether the subject is "Animal," "Vege- 
table," or "Mineral." Supposing, for instance, the 
subject chosen is a cat which is sleeping in the room 
by the fire, the questions and answers might be like 

38 



Indoor Amusements 

the following: "Is the subject chosen an animal?" 
"Yes." "Wild animal?" "No." "Domestic ani- 
mal?" "Yes." "Common?" "Yes." "Are there 
many to be seen in this town?" "Yes." "Have you 
seen many this day?" "Yes." "In this house?" 
"No." "Have you seen many in the road?" "Yes." 
"Do they draw carts?" "No." "Are they used 
for working purposes?" "No." "Is the subject a 
pet?" "Yes." "Have they one in the house?" "Yes." 
"In this room?" "Yes." "Is it lying in front of the 
fire at the present time?" "Yes." "Is the subject you 
all thought of the cat lying in front of the fire in this 
room?" "Yes." The subject having been guessed, 
another one is chosen and the game proceeds. 

THE GAME OF CONVERSATION 
To play this game successfully two of the com- 
pany privately agree upon a word that has several 
meanings. The two then enter into a conversation, 
which is obliged to be about the word they have 
chosen, while the remainder of the company listen. 
When a member of the party imagines that he has 
guessed the word, he may join in the conversation, but 
if he finds he is mistaken, must immediately retire. 

To give an illustration : Supposing the two play- 
ers who start the conversation decide upon the word 
box. They might talk about the people they had seen 
at the theatre and the particular part of the house in 
which they were sitting. Then they might say how 

39 



Sports and Games 

nice it looked in a garden, and one might mention 
that it grew into big trees. Perhaps one of the com- 
pany might imagine that he had guessed the word 
correctly and join in, when the conversation would 
be immediately changed, and the two would begin to 
converse about a huge case in which a very great 
number of things were packed away. By this time, 
possibly the person who joined in the conversation 
will leave ofif, completely mystified. 

If, however, the word should be correctly 
guessed, the person guessing it chooses a partner, and 
they together select a word, and the game begins 
again. 

RACHEL AND JACOB 
^ One player is blindfolded, the rest dance in a cir- 
cle round him till he points at one of them. This per- 
son then enters the ring, and when the blindman calls 
out, "Rachel," answers, "Jacob," and moves about 
within the circle so as to avoid being caught by the 
blindman, and continues to answer, "Jacob," as often 
as the blindman calls out, "Rachel." This continues 
until "Rachel" is caught. "Jacob" must then guess 
who it is he has caught; if he guesses correctly, 
"Rachel" takes his place, and the game goes on; if he 
guesses wrongly, he continues to be "Jacob." 



40 



Indoor Amusements 



CARD GAMES 

SPECULATION 

Speculation is a game at which any number of 
persons may play. The stakes are made with count- 
ers or nuts, and the value of the stakes is settled by the 
company. The highest trump in each deal wins the 
pool. 

When the dealer has been chosen, he puts, say, six 
counters in the pool and every other player puts four; 
three cards are given to each person, though they 
must be dealt one at a time; another card is then 
turned up, and called the trump card. The cards 
must be left upon the table, but the player on the 
left-hand side of the dealer turns up his top card so 
that all may see it. If it is a trump card, that is to 
say, if it is of the same suit as the card the dealer 
turned up, the owner may either keep his card or 
sell it, and the other players bid for it in turn. Of 
course, the owner sells it for the highest price he can 
get. 

The next player then turns up his card, keeps it 
or sells it, and so the game goes on until all the cards 
have been shown and disposed of, and then the player 
who holds the highest trump either in his own hand 
or among the cards he has bought takes the pool, 
and there is another deal. 

Should none of the other players have a trump 

41 



sports and Games 

card in his hand, and the turn-up card not having 
been purchased by another player, the dealer takes 
the pool. 

If any one look at his cards out of turn he can be 
made to turn all three up, so that the whole com- 
pany can see them. 

POPE JOAN 

This amusing game is for any number of players, 
and is played with a wooden board which is divided 
into compartments or pools, and can be bought 
cheaply at any toy-shop for a small sum. Failing a 
board, use a sheet of paper, marked out in squares. 

Before dealing, the eight of diamonds is taken out 
of the pack, and the deal is settled by cutting the 
cards, and whoever turns up the first knave is 
dealer. 

The dealer then shuffles the cards and his left- 
hand neighbor cuts them. The dealer must next 
''dress the board," that is, he must put counters into 
the pools, which are all marked differently. This is 
the way to dress the board : One counter to each ace, 
king, queen, knave, and game, two to matrimony, 
(king and queen), two to intrigue (queen and 
knave), and six to the nine of diamonds, which is the 
Pope. On a proper board, you will see these marked 
on it. 

The cards are now dealt round to the players, 
with the exception of one card, which is turned up 

- 42 



Indoor Amusements 

for trumps, and six or eight, which are put aside to 
form the stops; the four kings and the seven of dia- 
monds are also always stops. 

If either ace, king, queen, or knave happen to be 
turned up for trumps, the dealer may take whatever 
is in the compartment with that mark; but when 
Pope is turned up for trumps the dealer takes all the 
counters in Pope's compartment as well as those in 
the "game" compartment, besides a counter for 
every card dealt to each player, which must of 
course be paid by the players. There is then a fresh 
deal. 

It is very seldom, however, that Pope does turn 
up for trumps; when it does not happen, the player 
next to the dealer begins to play, trying to get rid of 
as many cards as possible. First he leads cards 
which he knows will be stops, then Pope, if he has it, 
and afterward the lowest card in his suit, particu- 
larly an ace, for that can never be led up to. The 
other players follow when they can ; for instance, if 
the leader plays the two of diamonds, whoever holds 
the three plays it, some one follows with the four, and 
so on until a stop occurs; whoever plays the card 
which makes a stop becomes leader and can play 
what he chooses. 

This goes on until some person has parted with all 
his cards, by which he wins the counters in the 
"game" compartment and receives from the players 
a counter for every card they hold. Should any one 

43 



Sports and Games 

hold the Pope he is excused from paying, unless he 
happens to have played it. 

Whoever plays any of the cards which have pools 
or compartments takes the counters in that pool. If 
any of these cards are not played the counters remain 
over for the next game. 

BEGGAR MY NEIGHBOR 

The cards are dealt equally to the players. The 
first player puts down a card, face upward, upon the 
table. If it be a common card, that is, a one, two, or 
three, or anything but a picture card or an ace — his 
neighbors put down in turn their cards until a court 
card (that is a picture card or an ace) turns up. 

If at last an ace be played, the neighbor of the 
one who plays it must pay him four cards, if a king 
three cards, if a queen two, and if a knave one. The 
one who played the court card also takes all the cards 
that have been played, and puts them under his own 
pack. If, however, in paying for a court card, one of 
the players puts down another court card, then his 
neighbor must pay him^ and he takes the whole pack 
instead of the previous player. Sometimes, it hap- 
pens that a second player, in paying, puts down a 
court card, and the third player in paying him puts 
down another, and so on, until perhaps the fourth or 
fifth player actually gets the cards in the end. 



44 



AMATEUR MAGIC 

A PLATE BALANCED ON A NEEDLE 

^PLIT a couple of corks down the middle, and into 
^ each of the four halves thus obtained thrust the 
prongs of a table-fork, forming with the flat surface 
made by the cut a little less than a right angle. Place 
the four corks thus weighted round the plate at equal 
distances, taking care that the teeth of the forks are 
well home against the edge of the plate, so as to pre- 
vent "wobbling." 

The plate thus loaded may be balanced upon the 
point of a needle thrust head downward into the cork 
of a bottle. By careful manipulation, so as to pre- 
vent slipping, you may set the plate spinning. The 
rotatory movement once started will continue for a 
considerable time, the friction at the point of contact 
with the needle being practically nil. 

TO BALANCE A PENCIL ON ITS POINT 

You have merely to dig the blade of a half-open 
penknife into the pencil, a little above the point, and 
to open or close the blade, little by little, till you find 
that the balance is obtained. 

The combination of pencil and penknife thus 
placing itself in equilibrio is an illustration of a fa- 

45 



sports and Games 

miliar law of mechanics ; the centre of gravity of the 
combination falls below the point of support (the 
finger, edge of the table, or the like), and thus stable 
equilibrium is obtained. 

By varying the degree of opening of the penknife, 
you impart corresponding degrees of inclination to 
the pencil. When the centre of gravity of the two 
combined falls in the same line as the axis of the 
pencil, the latter will assume a perpendicular posi- 
tion. 

TO BALANCE AN EGG ON THE NECK OF A BOTTLE 

Insert into an ordinary cork, one on either side, 
two forks of exactly equal weight. Hollow slightly 
the lower end of the cork, so that it may adapt itself 
with tolerable exactness to the larger end of the egg. 
Place the opposite extremity of the egg on the edge 
of the neck of a bottle, holding it as upright as possi- 
ble. After one or two attempts, you will find that 
the combination rests in equilibrium. 

In this, as in the last instance, equilibrium is ob- 
tained by lowering the centre of gravity. 

THE DIVIDED PEAR 

Problem: To find the position in which a knife 
must be held that a pear, suspended high up near to 
the ceiling, shall, on the severing of the thread to 
which it is attached, so fall as to cut itself in half upon 
the blade. There is no necessity for line or plum- 

46 



Amateur Magic 

met; we need only dip the suspended pear in a glass 
of water, which we forthwith remove. The water 
drips from it; we note the exact spot on floor or 
table where the drops fall, and make a private mark 
on such spot. 

This is done privately beforehand, so that the 
company, on their arrival, find the pear suspended 
in readiness for the feat, and know nothing of the 
tell-tale "drop." 

At the proper moment you hold the knife, edge 
upward, immediately over the point which you have 
marked, while some one applies a lighted match to 
the thread. If you have duly followed our instruc- 
tions, the pear, in falling, shoti^ld cut itself in half 
upon the blade. 

For the experiment as above described one knife 
only is used; but it may also be performed with two 
knives, as shown in our illustration. The knives must 
cross each other over the precise point where the drop 
falls. The pear will then cut itself into four pieces, 
which may be caught on a plate or tray held just be- 
low the knives. 

A few preliminary trials will be desirable before 
attempting to show the experiment in public. 

TO DRILL A HOLE WITH A NEEDLE THROUGH A PIN 

The pin is stuck in the head of a cork, into which 

are thrust, one on either side, two penknives of equal 

weight. (Should there be a trifling difference in 

47 



Sports and Games 

this particular, it may be got over by varying the de- 
gree of opening.) Place the head of the pin on the 
end of your finger, and open or close the blades of 
the knives, bit by bit, till the pin rests exactly hori- 
zontal; then transfer it to the point of a needle, stuck 
head downward in the cork of a bottle. By blowing 
upon the cork which holds the penknives, you may 
set the combination in movement, revolving on the 
point of the needle. 

Further, the needle being of harder metal than 
the pin, it will speedily begin to work a hole in the 
latter, and if the experiment is continued long enough, 
will in due time make its way completely through it. 

A STARTLER FOR A CAREFUL HOUSEKEEPER 
You are required to balance a coffee-cup on the 
point of a carving-knife. The accessories are simple 
enough ; in fact, you find them all at hand when you 
take your seat at the dinner-table — a cork, a table- 
fork; nothing more is required, save, indeed, the 
knowledge "how it's done," and the skill to do it. 

Pass the cork through the handle of a cofifee-cup. 
It should fit tightly enough to be a close fit, but not 
so tightly as to part cup and handle. Next thrust the 
fork into the cork, two of its teeth on either side the 
handle of the cup, in such manner that the opposite 
end of the fork shall incline slightly toward the bot- 
tom of the cup. 

The centre of gravity of the whole being thus 

48 



Amateur Magic 

made to fall below the cup, you place the latter on 
the point of the knife, and by successive trials you 
will, in due time, find the exact spot on which it will 
rest in equilibrium. The under side of tea-cups be- 
ing usually enamelled, there must be no trembling of 
the hand which holds the knife, or the cup would slip 
and fall. At the outset it is well to keep the opposite 
hand close to the handle of the fork, so as to be able 
to seize it and save the cup in case of a fall. 

TO DRIVE A NEEDLE THROUGH A CENT 

All you have to do is to thrust the needle through 
a cork, allowing the point to project slightly, and 
then, with a pair of cutting-pliers, nip off all that re- 
mains exposed at the opposite end. 

Place the cork and the cent on a piece of soft 
v/ood,* and hammer away vigorously on the top of 
the cork. 

The needle, being steel, is harder than the bronze 
of the coin, and the cork preventing it from bend- 
ing to either side, it may be driven through the 
cent, or any other coin of like substance, with per- 
fect ease. 

AN ACROBATIC BOTTLE 

The problem in this instance is to make a wine- 
bottle balance itself on a slack cord extending across 

* It is hardly necessary to remark that the cork should 
be kept in position with the left hand, while receiving the 
blows of the hammer. 

49 



Sports and Games 



the room. In order that we may do this, we have only 
to thrust into its mouth the curved handle of an um- 
brella. To prevent slipping, it will be well to rub 
with chalk that portion of the cord whereon the bottle 
rests, as acrobats chalk the soles of their shoes for the 
same reason. 

PENCILS BALANCED IN MID-AIR 
The object of this experiment, which we specially 
dedicate to young gentleman at school, is to balance 
in space two lead-pencils; the one in a horizontal 




position, with its point resting on a needle, or sus- 
pended by a thread; the other upright, with its point 
resting on the opposite end of the first pencil. 

50 



Amateur Magic 

Our readers are by this time so familiar with the 
principles of balancing, as illustrated in our previous 
experiments, that this will require but little explana- 
tion. The two knives, of equal weight, keeping the 
pencil horizontal (see the illustration), will recall 
the experiment of the pin perforated by a needle, as 
described at page 47. The balancing of the second 
pencil, kept perpendicular by the aid of a couple of 
penholders, is a very hackneyed feat. But the com- 
bination of the two seems to us sufficiently original to 
be worthy of special notice. 

If our young readers have rigged up the arrange- 
ment with sufficient care, they may even set it spinning 
round the point of suspension. Once started, it will 
revolve for a considerable time. 

THE SHOVEL AND THE TONGS 
Here is one of a very simple kind. The shovel 
and the tongs are the only apparatus needful. Place 
the shovel with its flat portion resting on the floor; 
and invite one of the company to keep it balanced in 
that position without any other aid than that of the 
tongs. 

The extremity of one arm of the tongs must be 
placed on the flat part of the shovel, and the extrem- 
ity of the opposite arm beneath the handle. After 
one or two trials you will get the desired balance, and 
the two articles will retain their position. 

You should give the preference to a shovel and 

51 



sports and Games 

tongs having each a good knob by way of handle. 
This will give them the extra weight necessary for 
the success of the experiment. 

If the extremities of the tongs chance to be too 
much rounded on the under side, a rub with a file 
will produce a little tract of flattened surface, on 
which you can make them rest without oscillation. 

A MINIATURE DIVING-BELL 

If we plunge an inverted tumbler into water, we 
observe that the level of the water in the glass is much 
below that of the water outside. This well-known 
fact enables us to give an amusing illustration of the 
working of the diving-bell, beneath which the work- 
men, though far below the surface, can breathe and 
work without inconvenience. 

In order that all present may be able to witness 
the experiment, arrange it as we are about to explain. 
The vessel to hold the water should be an inverted 
glass bell (such as may be seen in a confectioner's 
window covering a wedding or christening cake), 
and should be supported on a pickle-jar, the mouth 
of the jar accommodating the knob of the bell. 

You thus have a transparent vase, enabling you to 
see all that passes within it. If you now lower an 
inverted tumbler into the water, you will see clearly 
that the level of the water within the glass is much 
below that of the water outside. 

Taking advantage of this principle, you may 

52 




Miniature Vesuvius— A Volcanic EruptiDn with Red Wine 

Sports and Games — yol. Fourteen^ p. 55 



Amateur Magic 

safely propound the following "poser." To place a 
lump of sugar under water without wetting it. You 
have only to place the lump of sugar on the cork be- 
longing to the pickle-jar, and to cover the cork with 
the inverted tumbler; lower the tumbler quite per- 
pendicularly (lest the cork should turn over), and 
hold it down, with its edge to the bottom, as long as 
may be desired. 

On again withdrawing the glass, and in due 
course the sugar and its supporting cork, you will 
find the lump of sugar quite dry, the air contained 
in the glass having prevented the water from coming 
in contact with it. 

RED, WHITE, AND BLUE 

Most people are aware that if you pour wine very 
gently upon water, the wine will float upon the sur- 
face. The experiment is too well known to need 
more than a passing mention; but we now propose 
to place the wine at the bottom of the glass, and the 
water at the top, without the two liquids intermin- 
gling. To efifect this we take advantage of the vary- 
ing density of water, according as it is hot or cold. 

Half fill a glass (tempered for preference, to 
avoid the risk of breakage) with boiling water. 
Then, by the aid of a funnel passing quite to the 
bottom (Fig. i), pour in wine made as cold as pos- 
sible with ice. If you do this slowly and carefully, 
you will see the wine form a well-defined red stratum 

53 

Vol. 14—3 



Sports and Games 

at the bottom of the glass. Gently withdraw the fun- 
nel, and in like manner pour upon the surface of the 
water some bluish liquid of less specific gravity than 
water, say rectified spirit tinged with ink {Fig. 2). 



You will thus have a layer of blue on the top, and 
by the aid of a light behind the glass you will be en- 
abled to exhibit upon the wall the French tricolor. 

So much by way of illumination; but we may 
have a firework display in addition. If you allow 

54 



Amateur Magic 

the water in the glass to grow cold — or if, for greater 
expedition, you place the glass in a vessel containing 
cold water — you will see the wine rise through the 
water in fine red threads, which (if, like the March- 
ioness, you "make believe very much") may be re- 
garded as a flight of rockets (Fig. 3) . The different 
fluids will gradually intermingle; and the blue col- 
umns descending amid ascending columns of red will 
give you the curious spectacle of a pyrotechnic dis- 
play in a glass of water. 

A MINIATURE VESUVIUS 

Place at the bottom of a glass bowl, three-parts 
full of water, a little bottle containing red wine. It 
should be corked, but the cork must have a very small 
hole bored through it perpendicularly from top to 
bottom. We know that, by reason of the difference 
of specific gravity between the two liquids, the water 
will make its way into the bottle and force out the 
wine, which will escape upward in a thin red line, 
and finally spread itself over the surface of the water. 

The experiment is one very generally known, but 
it may be presented in a more picturesque guise as 
follows: — Mold with clay or plaster of paris, at the 
bottom of the bowl, a miniature mountain, high 
enough to just cover the bottle. In the apex make 
a minute opening for the wine to flow through. This 
will form a "crater." Agitate the water a little, so 
that the rising stream of wine may the more nearly 

5S 



sports and Games 

resemble the wind-tossed smoke and flame of the vol- 
cano, and you will be enabled to offer the spectators 
a really very fair representation (on a small scale) of 
an eruption of Vesuvius. 

WATER CHANGED TO WINE 
The experiment to which we have given this 
name has nothing in common with the miracle of 
Cana; but it will be found very interesting by those 
who have a taste for such matters. 

Take two drinking-glasses of equal diameter, 
which, for facility of reference, we will call A and B 
respectively, and plunge them into a pail of water, 
holding the first in its normal position, the other in- 
verted. When both are completely full of liquid, 
without even a single air-bubble, place them mouth to 
mouth, one upon the other, keeping both upright (A 
still mouth upward and B upside down), and lift 
them out of the pail. Let the external moisture drain 
off upon a plate, and carefully wipe them. You will 
note that the upper glass, B, remains full of water, 
even if you shift it infinitesimally to one side, so as to 
leave between its edge and that of A a minute open- 
ing, whose object we shall see presently. Upon the 
foot of B place a smaller glass (which we will call c) 
full of red wine, and boldly announce that without 
touching either of the three glasses, without even 
claiming the conjurer's privilege of covering them 
with a handkerchief, you will make the wine in C pass 

56 



Amateur Magic 

visibly into B without one single drop finding its way 
into A. 

It will be observed that there are two effects to be 
produced — first, to make the wine pass out of the top- 
most glass, C; and secondly, to compel it to make its 
way into the inverted glass, B. A bit of fingering 
wool plunged into the wine in the smaller glass, with 
its two ends hanging over the brim, will form, by 
reason of its capillarity, a very effective syphon. 
After a little while you will see gather on each end 
of the wool a single drop of wine, which will grow 
larger and larger till it falls on the foot, and thence 
runs over on to the sides of B. The wine will then 
run gently down till it reaches the joined edges of the 
two larger glasses; but, having reached that point, in- 
stead of continuing its downward course under the 
influence of gravitation, we shall see it (strange to 
say) sucked in, so to speak, between their edges, and 
drawn into the upper glass. 

This curious phenomenon is due to capillary at- 
traction, and recalls the familiar experiment of a 
liquid made to rise between two slips of glass placed 
one against the other, or up a tube of sufficiently mi- 
nute diameter. We shall see the wine, having once 
found its way between the glasses, rise in red thread- 
like streaks to the surface of the water in B, coloring 
it with a more or less rosy tint, growing fainter and 
fainter, as it nears the lower edge of the glass. 

By allowing sufficient time for the experiment, 

57 



sports and Games 

which, as will be seen, is automatic in its working, we 
shall reach the final result following, viz. : — The 
glass A full of clear water, B full of rosy fluid, and C 
empty. 

THE PERFORMING FISH 

For this experiment a blown egg is required. You 
make a little hole at each end, blow through the one 
and the contents of the egg will pass out through the 
other. If you have a liking for raw eggs a single 
hole will suffice, and you may effect the object by 
suction. If not, make two holes as above mentioned, 
and afterward stop one of them with a little wax. 
Next, draw upon the empty eggshell, with a very 
black pencil, two large ey«s. In the next place 
you must have a little bag, made of two pieces of 
red flannel, stitched together as shown by the dotted 
lines in our diagram. You must ballast it with 
small shot so that it may keep right side uppermost 
in the water, and half-way into its open end you in- 
sert the blown egg, the hole innermost. Secure the 
edge of the bag to the egg with red sealing-wax, and 
behold your fish ready for use. The two pieces of 
flannel may be cut out at the edges as shown in the 
figure, but the number and shape of the fins may be 
varied at pleasure, so as to give your fish any form 
you may desire, however fantastic. 

Whatever be the shape you give your fish, it will 
form a capital diving toy. It should be placed in a 

58 



Amateur Magic 

glass jar full of water (closed by a piece of india-rub- 
ber tied tightly round its mouth), and may then, by 
pressing with the hand upon the india-rubber, be 
made to rise or sink at pleasure. 

The weight of your "ballast" should be so regu- 
lated that the fish rests normally at the surface, but 




that a very slight depression of the india-rubber shall 
make it sink to the bottom. When you do this, keep- 
ing the hand upon the cover, and pressing lightly, a 
small portion of water is forced into the egg through 
the little hole, rendering it heavier; and the fish, thus 
weighted, sinks. On removing the pressure of the 
hand, the air which the water, on entering the egg, 

59 



Sports and Games 

had temporarily forced into a smaller space, will ex- 
pand, and forces the water out again. The fish, thus 
lightened, returns to the surface, doing so in appar- 
ent obedience to your command, the very slight move- 
ment of the hand being practically invisible to the 
spectators. 

A QUEER KIND OF CANDLESTICK 

Take a short piece of candle, and into its lower 
end thrust, by way of ballast, a nail. You should 
choose a nail of such a size that the candle-end shall 
be all but immersed, the water just rising to its upper 
edge, though not so high as to overflow the top and 
wet the wick. 

Now, light the candle, and you may safely make 
a wager that, in spite of the apparently unfavorable 
circumstances in which it is placed, it will burn com- 
pletely to the end. 

This may, at first sight, appear a rash assertion, 
but after a little reflection, you will see how the ar- 
rangement works. The candle, of course, grows 
shorter as it burns, and it seems, therefore, as if the 
water must overflow the top and reach the wick; but 
on the other hand, it grows proportionately lighter, 
and therefore rides higher in the water. 

Further, the external surface of the candle, kept 
cool by the surrounding liquid, melts much more 
slowly than it would in the open air, so that the flame 
hollows out for itself a sort of little well. 

60 



Amateur Magic 

This hollowing process further lightens the can- 
dle, and the wick will burn to the very end. 

HOW TO WEIGH A LETTER WITH A BROOMSTICK 

For the purpose of weighing light objects, as, for 
instance, a letter, a very delicate balance is required; 
and as such we recommend to our readers our new 
broomstick letter-weighing machine. 

Cut off the end of an ordinary broom-handle, to 
a length of about ten inches, and plunge it into a tall 
glass jar full of water — first, however, weighting it at 
bottom in such manner that about seven inches of its 
length shall be under water. Attach to the upper 
end, by means of a tack, an ordinary visiting card. 
This will form the tray or scale of the apparatus — 
and behold your weighing-machine, complete. All 
that remains to be done is to graduate it. Place on 
the scale a one-ounce weight, note how far the stick 
sinks, and mark thereon, with a very black pencil, the 
point where it meets the surface of the water. 

The apparatus being so far graduated, take off the 
weight, and lay on the card, in its stead, the letter you 
desire to weigh. If the pencil mark remains above 
the surface of the water, your letter weighs less than 
an ounce, and two cents will pay the postage ; if, on 
the contrary, the mark sinks below the surface, your 
letter is overweight, and you must pay accordingly. 

Other marks, representing other weights, may be 
added in like manner. 

6i 



sports and Games 

BEWITCHED SOAP-BUBBLES 
For the purpose of this experiment, we shall re- 
quire a supply of carbonic acid gas. We will there- 
fore, in the first place, describe a ready method of 
procuring it. 

Take a tall glass, say a soda-water tumbler, and a 

siphon of soda-water. By alternately pressing and 

releasing the lever, squirt the soda-water by little jets 

into the tumbler, and forthwith remove it again by 

sucking it through a straw, never leaving more than 

half an inch or so of the liquid in the glass at a time. 

Proceeding as above, you will find that by the 

time the soda-water is all used up, the glass will be 

filled with the carbonic acid gas which it has thrown 

off, and which, by reason of its greater density, will 

remain (though invisible) at the bottom. It would, 

however, gradually intermingle with the atmosphere, 

to prevent which you may temporarily cover the glass 

with a saucer. This done, you are ready to perform 

the interesting experiments with soap-bubbles which 

follow. 

You must, however, in the first place, have pre- 
pared the bubble-producing liquid, which should be 
done as follows:— Rub down soap of good quality in 
warm water, at a temperature of about 60 degrees. 
When you have made a strong solution, strain it 
through a cloth in order to remove any undissolved 
particles of soap, and mix with it pure glycerine, in 
the proportion of two parts of glycerine to three of 

62 



Amateur Magic 

the soap solution. Shake the vessel about so that they 
may be thoroughly intermingled, and then stand it in 
a cool place till you see a whitish scum form on the 
surface. Skim this off, and decant the clear liquid 
into a bottle; cork it well, and the solution may be 
kept for any length of time. 

Having thus provided yourself with the needful 
material, take a straw, split one end in four half an 
inch up, and turn back the four segments at right an- 
gles to the remainder. Dip this prepared end of the 
straw into the soap solution, blow a bubble, and let it 
fall into the glass, which we will suppose to be half- 
full of carbonic acid gas. So soon as it reaches the 
gas, half-way down, you will see it rebound and jump 
out of the glass, the impulse of the rebound being 
stronger than its own weight. A second bubble, 
dropped into an unprepared glass, will fall to the 
bottom of the glass and break. 

2. If, instead of letting it fall, you lower the bub- 
ble gently on to the surface of the carbonic acid gas, 
you will observe a curious phenomenon. The bubble 
will grow larger and heavier, and gradually sink 
lower and lower in the glass, increasing in diameter, 
till it ultimately reaches the sides of the glass and 
bursts. The reason of this is that the carbonic acid 
gas, by what is called endosmosis, gradually finds its 
way into the ball (previously filled with air only) and 
thereby increases its size and weight. 

If you find a difficulty in procuring the special 

(>3 



Sports and Games 

solution above referred to, ordinary soap and water, 
if sufficiently strong, may be made to serve your pur- 
pose. 

THE CAMPHOR SCORPION 

Place on the surface of the water in a glass or 
basin a number of small pieces of camphor of vari- 
ous sizes, together representing the form of some ani- 
mal, say a scorpion. After a little while the scorpion 
will begin to stir in the water; you will see him move 
his claws, as though trying to swim, and curl his tail 
convulsively, as if in pain. 

This amusing experiment is easy to perform, and 
costs practically nothing, for camphor is to be found 
in every household ; but in spite of its simplicity we 
may deduce from it, as you will see, several interest- 
ing observations. 

1. Our scorpion floats on the water, but lies al- 
most entirely below the surface. This proves to us 
that the specific gravity of camphor is nearly, but not 
quite, equal to that of water. As a matter of fact, if 
we regard that of water as unity, that of camphor is 

•995- 

2. The animal does not dissolve. Camphor is 
therefore insoluble in water. If we had placed it in 
spirit, we should have found, on the contrary, that it 
speedily dissolved. 

3. The different fragments of which our scorpion 
consists do not separate, but remain one against the 
other as we orginally placed them. This is because 

64 



Amateur Magic 

they are held together by the force known as co- 
hesion. 

4. Lastly, the eccentric movements we have men- 
tioned depend on a well-ascertained but mysterious 
property of camphor, viz., that when placed on the 
surface of water, it moves spontaneously. It is a 
well-known fact that a morsel of camphor placed in 
a glass of water will, after a few moments, begin to 
move either with a sidelong or rotatory movement; 
such movement being due, according to some authori- 
ties, to the recoil produced by an escape of liberated 
vapors; according to others, to a mysterious force in- 
herent in the surface of liquids, and known as super- 
ficial tension. 

A NOVEL WATER ENGINE 

A bit of rye straw, a walnut, a couple of Spanish 
nuts, a bottle, and a cork, will be the requirements for 
our next experiment. 

Cut off the broad end of the walnut, take out the 
kernel (eat it, if you like), and then bore on either 
side, close to the point, two round holes, in diameter 
exactly corresponding with your straw. Bore in one 
of your Spanish nuts two holes, one in the soft grayish 
portion furthest from the point, the other somewhat 
smaller, in the side; and, with a little piece of iron 
wire bent into a hook, rake out the kernel. Treat the 
second nut in like manner, and join the pair to the 
walnut by means of two pieces of the straw about 

65 



Sports and Games 

three and a half inches in length, one end of each be- 
ing thrust into the holes in the walnut, the opposite 
ends into the holes bored in the ends of the smaller 
nuts. Into the two holes bored in the sides of the lat- 
ter thrust two short pieces of straw, say three-quar- 
ters of an inch in length, and a shade less in diameter 
than the longer tubes; the nuts must be so arranged 
that the openings of these shorter tubes face in oppo- 
site directions. This done, place the pointed end of 
the walnut on the cork of the bottle. The arrange- 
ment will balance itself, and if you now pour gently 
into the open end of the nut a slender stream of water, 
it will flow down the two straws into the smaller nuts, 
whence it will escape through the little pipes pro- 
jecting from their sides ; in so doing will compel the 
apparatus to revolve, by reason of the backward pres- 
sure of thewater against the opposite faces of the nuts. 

This is in effect the appliance described in trea- 
tises on physical science, under the name of the hy- 
draulic tourniquet, but the rustic elements of which 
we here construct it give it a new character, and make 
it worth while to call the attention of our readers to 
this, its latest form. 

In boring the holes in the various nuts, some little 
care will be necessary in order not to split the shells 
or break the point of your penknife. The best plan 
is to bore the holes with a bit of wire, made red-hot, 
which will enable you to enlarge the holes gradually 
until they reach the required diameter. 

6G 



Amateur Magic 

Whatever be the method selected, some little ad- 
dress and patience will be necessary, but the prelimi- 
nary labor will enhance the pleasure of success. 

A MINIATURE STEAMBOAT 

Two empty egg-shells are all that is needed to 
constitute the moving power of a little cardboard 
boat, which by their aid will be transformed into a 
steamboat. 

The construction of the boat is simplicity itself; 
it should be made of fairly stout cardboard, and 
caulked at the seams with sealing-wax, so as to render 
it thoroughly water-tight. A few pins and some 
black thread will represent the bulwarks, and at the 
stern you must fix a rudder working on a pin by way 
of stern-post, and attached to the bulwarks by two 
threads of unequal length, so that your helm shall be 
constantly "hard a-port," i.e., set at a considerable 
angle to the axis of the boat. This is on the assump- 
tion that the sea is represented by a tub, which the 
boat is required to circumnavigate. 

Two bits of iron wire, each resting in a minute 
notch in the side of the tgg, form a bed to support a 
blown egg-shell with a little hole in its smaller end, 
and so far filled with water that, when the egg is in 
a horizontal position, the water shall be all but level 
with such hole. The egg-shell, thus half filled with 
water, will constitute the boiler; we place it on the 
two bent wires, the little hole pointing to the stern a 

67 



sports and Games 

little above the level of the bulwarks. By way of 
furnace, we will place beneath it a half egg-shell 
placed on the centre of a pickle-cork, scooped into a 
ring, and secured to the bottom of the boat with wax. 
This half-shell should contain a little tow or wadding. 
Let us now pour on the wadding a little spirit of 
wine, and set it on fire. After a few seconds the wa- 
ter will boil, and you will see a minute jet of steam 
gush out of the perforated end of the egg-shell. By 
reason of the resistance of the air to this jet of steam, 
the boat will begin to move in the opposite direction, 
and you will have the curious spectacle of a minia- 
ture steamboat worked without engine, paddle- 
wheels, or screw. 

A PAPER FISH MADE TO SWIM AT PLEASURE 
Cut out of ordinary paper a fish as shown (actual 
size) in our illustration. In the centre of the body 
must be a circular opening, a, communicating with 
the tail by a narrow canal, a b. Place water in some 
oblong vessel (a fish-kettle will answer the purpose 
for want of a better) , and lay the fish carefully on the 
water, so that its under side shall be thoroughly 
wetted, though its upper surface remains dry. You 
may then challenge the company to set the fish in mo- 
tion without touching or blowing upon it. 

They will probably "give it up." This is all you 
have to do. Pour delicately one or two drops of oil 
within the circular opening, a. The oil will strive 

68 



Amateur Magic 

to spread itself over the surface of the water, but it 
can only do so by travelling along the little canal, a b. 
iBy a reactive effect, of which we have already given 
examples, the fish will be impelled in a direction 
opposite to that in which the oil escapes, or, in other 




words, forward; and the movement will last long 
enough to set the spectators wondering at this strange 
movement of a mere bit of paper on the surface of the 
liquid; a movement which, if they are not initiated 
into the mystery, they will be wholly unable to ac- 
count for. 



69 



Sports and Games 

A CURIOUS COIN TRICK 

Take a wine-glass of conical shape, whose largest 
diameter is a shade larger than that of a half dol- 
lar. Place at the bottom a dime, and above it the 
half dollar, which should rest about a quarter of an 
inch below the edge, and act as a sort of lid. You 
may now announce that without touching either the 
glass or the larger coin you will make the dime fly 
out of the glass. 

To do this you have only to blow smartly on the 
nearer the edge of the half dollar. The coin turns on 
its own axis, assuming a vertical position, and at the 
same moment the compressed air, forced by your 
breath under the dime, makes this latter jump out 
of the glass, after which the half dollar reverts to 
its original condition. 

The experiment will succeed with wine-glasses of 
various shapes, but the conical form is to be preferred. 

BUBBLE-BLOWING EXTRAORDINARY 
We have already (page 62) given a formula for 
the preparation of a special liquid for blowing soap- 
bubbles. We proceed to give a few more experi- 
ments of a simple character, which may be performed 
with the liquid in question. 

To blow your bubbles, you may use either a clay 
tobacco-pipe or a straw, of which you have split one 
end in four, and turned back the four segments at 
right angles to the stem. You may likewise operate 

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Amateur Magic 

with a paper tube (the thickness of your little finger) , 
one end of which has been treated in the same way. 
With a tube of this kind you may frequently obtain 
bubbles as large as your own head, and exhibiting the 
most beautiful prismatic colors. 

Make, out of stout iron wire, a little support con- 




^■ae^ 



sisting of a ring resting on three feet, and moisten the 
ring with the bubble-producing liquid. If you blow 
a bubble and gently lower it on to this little support, 
it will attach itself thereto, letting go the tube. A 
bubble thus placed, screened from draught, will keep 
its shape unbroken for a considerable time. (See 
diagram at foot of illustration, in centre.) 

71 



sports and Games 

Make, in addition, a second wire ring, supported 
in this- case by a vertical stem from above, and, like 
the first mentioned, about two and a half inches in 
diameter. If, after moistening this ring with the 
liquid, you lower it gently down over the soap-bubble 
reposing as above, you will find this latter attach it- 
self to the upper ring so strongly that, by raising the 
ring, you may transform it from the spherical shape 
into something very like a cylinder; "right" or 
"oblique," according as the upper ring is or is not 
held perpendicularly above the lower. (See dia- 
gram at right hand of illustration.) If you grad- 
ually depress the hand, the cylinder once more be- 
comes a sphere, and it is extremely curious to see a 
soap-bubble thus assume two utterly different geo- 
metrical forms, as though it were formed of some 
plastic material. 

■For the further prosecution of our experiments, 
we must add to our apparatus a little cube, two and a 
half inches square, of iron wire, with a stem or handle 
of the same material on its upper side. The wire 
should be somewhat rusty, so as not to offer too 
smooth a surface. (See upper diagrams.) 

Immerse this cube in the bubble-producing fluid. 
If you withdraw it with sufficient care, a surprise 
awaits you. You will see in the centre a film of fluid, 
square in shape and of infinitesimal substance, of 
which each side is united to the corresponding side 
of the cube by another film, as in the right hand cube. 

7a 



Amateur Magic 

If you again plunge the lower face only of the 
cube into the liquid, and again withdraw it, you will 
observe a new transformation. The liquid will have 
formed in the centre of the wire cube a smaller cube, 
each of whose faces is but a film of soapy water, and 
whose sides are united by other films of soapy water 
to the side of the larger cube. These latter films 
form, in conjunction with the six faces of the smaller 
cubes, six truncated pyramids exactly alike in size, 
and the whole, like the soap-bubbles, present the iri- 
descent colors of the rainbow. Now break, by touch- 
ing it with a strip of blotting paper, one of the faces 
of the smaller cube, and the former figure (in which 
the central cube is replaced by a simple square) will 
immediately reappear. 

A PLAY ACTED IN A LOOKING-GLASS 
In front of a looking-glass, hung from the wall 
at a greater or less angle as may be found convenient, 
place a table, covered with a cloth, reaching on its 
hinder side to the ground. Beneath this table is con- 
cealed the person who is to manipulate the "char- 
acters." These latter must be fixed at right angles 
to the end of sticks or wires of appropriate length. 
They are worked through the back scene by means of 
an H-shaped opening cut in such scene. This open- 
ing is partly disguised by the proscenium, which is 
attached to the back scene by means of corks or small 
blocks of wood, glued or nailed in position, so as to 

73 



Sports and Games 

leave a depth of a couple of inches or so between the 
proscenium and the back scene. Part of the cut-out 
portion of the former, which is made of mill-board, 
is folded back at bottom so as to represent the 
"boards." 

The front of the theatre must be so arranged as 
to be parallel with the mirror, and the characters 
held in like manner. They will then appear upright 
in the glass. If these instructions be duly carried 
out, the spectator will be able to follow the action of 
the play in the mirror, just as if he were looking di- 
rectly at the characters. 

The theatre and actors should be strongly illumi- 
nated by means of a lamp placed on the floor, as 
shown in the illustration. 

THE TRI -COLORED STAR 

Take a sheet of cardboard and double it in half 
along its greatest length. In one of the two leaves 
thus obtained, cut out a four-pointed star, the one pair 
of rays being vertical, and the other, consequently, 
horizontal. Fold down this leaf upon the other, and 
with a pencil trace the outline of the star upon the 
second leaf. Mark its centre (which will be at the 
point of intersection of its diagonals), and make this 
point the centre of a second star, also four-pointed, 
but whose diagonals shall make an angle of 45° with 
those of the first star. 

After having traced the outline of this second star, 

74 



Amateur Magic 

you must cut it out carefully, and place the perforated 
cardboard on a table whereon are two lighted candles 
of the same height, and in front of a sheet of white 
cartridge paper fixed to the wall, and forming the 
necessary "screen." You must so regulate the angle 
formed by the two leaves of the cardboard, that in the 
middle of the shadow which it throws on the screen, 
the luminous shapes of the two stars shall lie one upon 
the other, producing the effect of a single luminous 
star with eight points. 

If you now cover one of the two openings with a 
piece of colored glass, green for example, you will 
have a tri-colored star; the eight external points will 
be red and green alternately, and a smaller eight- 
pointed star, in white, will appear in the centre of the 
image. 

The piece of colored glass may be replaced by a 
wine-glass filled with variously colored liquids, when 
the alternate points of the star will in each case ex- 
hibit the color of the liquid, and the color comple- 
mentary to it. 

THE TIGHT-ROPE DANCER 
You all know that if we hold a needle upright on 
a plate, and above it a magnet, at a proper distance 
above its head (such distance varying according to 
the strength of the magnet) , we can release the needle, 
which will remain upright by reason of the magnetic 
force exercised through the intervening space. It 

75 



Sports and Games 

will not stand quite still, but will have a slight "wob- 
ling" movement, of which we take advantage in the 
construction of the little toy we are about to describe. 

Cut out, in the first place, from a sheet of card- 
board (an old almanac will answer the purpose) the 
proscenium of a miniature theatre, with a rectangu- 
lar opening in the centre. The back scene will be 
formed of a similar sheet of cardboard, the two being 
joined together by corks, secured by pins. Behind 
the proscenium, and against its upper portion, fix an 
ordinary horseshoe magnet, so placed as to be unseen 
by the spectators. Two or three inches below the 
magnet stretch across the opening a piece of iron 
wire, on which you will place the point of an ordi- 
nary needle. The exact height of this wire must be 
determined by successive trials, being so regulated 
that the needle shall not be drawn into contact with 
the magnet, but by virtue of its attractive force shall 
be compelled to stand upright on the wire. 

When you have duly settled the elevation of the 
wire, cut out of stiflf paper a little figure, say that of 
a ballet-girl standing on one leg. Make her of ex- 
actly the same height as the needle, and, with two lit- 
tle dabs of sealing-wax, fix the needle behind the little 
figure, the point of the needle exactly corresponding 
with that of the foot of the dancer. Then place her 
on the iron wire, just beneath one of the arms of the 
magnet, and she will balance herself on the wire, with 
sundry little quivering movements, having a fairly 

76 



Amateur Magic 

close resemblance to the movements of rope-danceiS 
while engaged in the performance of their feats. 

As your magnet has two arms, there is nothing to 
prevent your placing on the wire, if you so please, 
two figures instead of one. 

Again, you may replace the wire "rope" by a little 
trapeze, made of a lucifer match and two bits of 
thread, and having placed your rope-dancers upon 
this trapeze, you may set them swinging without fear 
of their falling, for the head of the needle will always 
remain automatically at the same distance from the 
magnet. 

CANDLE LIGHTING UNDER DIFFICULTIES 

The feat to be performed is as follows : Two per- 
sons kneel on the ground, facing each other. Each 
holds in his left hand a candle in a candlestick, at the 
same time grasping his right foot in his right hand. 
This position compels him to balance himself on his 
left knee. One of the candles is lighted ; the other is 
not. The holders are required to light the unlighted 
candle from the lighted one. 

The conditions, as will be seen, are simple enough, 
but you would hardly believe how often the perform- 
ers will roll over on the floor before they succeed in 
lighting the candle. 

It will be found desirable to spread a newspaper 
on the floor between the combatants. Many spots 
of candle-grease will thus be intercepted, and the 

77 



sports and Games 

peace of mind of the lady of the house proportion- 
ately spared. 

A PROBLEM IN GYMNASTICS 
Place a low stool on the floor close against the 
wall, and yourself facing the wall, with your feet dis- 
tant from it just double the width of the stool. Stoop 
down and grasp the stool with one hand on either 
side, and rest your head against the wall. Now lift 
the stool from the floor, and slowly raise yourself to 
the erect position — or rather, endeavor to do so. It is 
better to try the experiment for the first time on a 
well-carpeted floor. On polished oak or parqueterie 
you would probably have a nasty fall. 

We have here a curious effect of the displacement 
of the centre of gravity of the body, which renders it 
almost impossible to stand upright without first re- 
placing the stool on the ground, and resting the hand 
upon it to get the needful support. 

ANOTHER GYMNASTIC PUZZLE 
Fland a broom-handle or long stick to some per- 
son who has never seen this feat performed. Invite 
him to rest one end of it in the angle made by the 
floor and the wall, and then to pass his whole body 
underneath it, within the space comprehended be- 
tween the floor and his hands. 

If he does not know the secret of the trick, he will 
stand with his face to the wall, and in endeavoring 

78 



Amateur Magic 

to pass under the stick will inevitably lose his balance 
and fall. If, on the other hand, he places himself 
with his back to the wall, in such manner that his 
feet and the lower end of the stick form the lower 
angles of an isosceles triangle, he will succeed with- 
out difficulty; and having passed under the stick will 
rise again on the opposite side, in as stable a position 
as he occupied at the outset of his experiment. 



79 



BOATING 

EFFECT OF THE WIND ON A BOAT 

YVT" HEN a boat is floating on the water with sail 
'^ set, the wind produces on her various effects. 
It tends to heel her over; to propel her forward; to 
drive her sidewise away from the wind ; and to turn 
one end or other of her round, according to the bal- 
ance of her sails and the distribution of her weight. 
By a scientific construction of hull, sails, and rud- 
der, these different effects are so utilized or counter- 
acted as to enable the helmsman to sail his vessel in 
any direction he pleases, and even to work the appar- 
ent miracle of making her travel against wind and 
tide combined, with the aid of his canvas only. 

HEELING — STABILITY 
One of the above-mentioned effects of the wind on 
a sailing-boat is to heel her over. This effect, being 
wholly antagonistic to the object for which a boat is 
built — her forward progression — has to be resisted 
by giving her sufficient stability. Most of us remem- 
ber how the model boats we used to carve out of 
blocks of deal in our boyhood lacked stability when 
placed in the water, and, refusing to float upright, 
swam on their sides until we had placed lead on their 

80 



Boating 

keels. If a boat is long and narrow, it is as impossible 
for her to maintain an upright position in the water 
as for a plank to float on its edge, for in that position 
her centre of gravity is high above the water-line; 
she is, in short, top-heavy, and must fall over till she 
assumes a position in which she is in stable equi- 
librium. 

To give her stability, therefore, her centre of grav- 
ity must be lowered. This is done by placing ballast 
in her bottom, or by putting lead or iron on her keel ; 
and it is obvious that the lower the weight the more 
effective it will be. A deep boat with a heavy lead 
keel can not capsize. She heels over readily to the 
wind at first, but becomes stiffer as the angle in- 
creases ; for the more she heels over to the wind, with 
the greater leverage does her lead keel tend to right 
her again, and the greater force must the wind exert 
in order to heel her further. 

On the other hand, a broad, shallow boat needs no 
ballast to enable her to float upright. Thus the ordi- 
nary, beamy, flat-floored, cat-boat of America, with 
its wooden centre-board, is as often as not sailed with- 
out ballast. Such a boat is very stiff at first; she does 
not heel readily; but having no heavy keel to right 
her, she capsizes so soon as she has heeled beyond a 
certain angle. 

Of the effects of the wind on a vessel, the one 
which has to be utilized to the utmost extent is the 
propelling efifect; therefore every boat is constructed 

8i 



Sports and Games 

so that the water may offer the least resistance to her 
forward motion. Thus the bow is made sharp, like 
a wedge, so that it cuts through the water easily and 
4 with little friction; while the stern is tapered ofif 
gently — the boat, if she be properly built, having 
what is termed a clean run, which enables the water 
to glide away from her stern without fuss, instead of 
■forming a following wave to act as a drag on her 
speed, as is the case if the stern be finished off too 
abruptly. 

LATERAL RESISTANCE — LEEWAY 

But when a boat is sailing with the wind on her 
side, the effect of the wind is not only to drive her 
forward, but sidewise as well, and she makes what 
is called leeway. A boat of very shallow draft will, 
when close-hauled, drift bodily to leeward, and make 
no headway at all. This tendency to make leeway 
has to be checked as much as possible by increasing 
the lateral resistance of the water; and this is done 
by giving the boat a deep keel or a centre-board, or 
by otherwise providing an extensive area of lateral 
surface below the water-line. 

The lateral resistance opposed by the water to a 
ship's side acts through a point which is, roughly 
speaking, the centre of the immersed portion of the 
vessel's side, and this point is termed the centre of 
lateral resistance. Thus, in Fig. i, <i! is the centre 
of lateral resistance. A rope made fast to the vessel's 

82 



Boating 

side at this point would tow her broadside on; but 
were it made fast before or aft of that point, the re- 
sistance would be greater on one side than on the 
other, and the rope would pull either the stern or the 
bow round, as the case might be. 

ACTION OF THE WIND WHEN THE VESSEL IS 
CLOSE-HAULED 
It is easy to understand how a sailing-boat can 
travel before a favorable wind, but it would at first 
sight seem contrary to the laws of dynamics that a 
boat should be able to sail close-hauled — that is, in a 
direction opposed to the wind, which serves as the 
propelling force. A boat, with a sufficiently deep 
keel to check the tendency to make leeway, can sail 
within 45 degrees of the wind. In Fig. 2 is repre- 
sented the deck-plan of a boat sailing close-hauled. 
The direction of the wind is shown by the arrow W. 
AB is the sail, so trimmed as just to hold the wind 
without shaking. Now it can be mathematically 
demonstrated that the wind, so far as it affects the mo- 
tion of the vessel, exerts a horizontal pressure on the 
sail, acting in a direction at right angles to the plane 
of the sail — that is, in the direction AC. This force, 
it will be observed, while pressing the boat sideways, 
tends also to a lesser extent to propel her in a forward 
direction. The old friend of our youthful studies, the 
parallelogram of forces, enables us to resolve the 
force AC into its two component forces, and to esti- 

83 



sports and Games 

mate their relative magnitudes. Let GF be the line 
of the keel. From C draw CD perpendicular to GF, 
and complete the parallelogram ADCE. Then if 
DC represents the magnitude of the force driving 
the vessel sidewise, AD will represent the magnitude 
of the force propelling her forward in the direction 
FG. The closer to the wind a vessel sails, the greater 
will be the disproportion between these two forces; 
and the tyro will soon discover that if he flattens his 
sheets too close and attempts to squeeze his craft too 
near the wind, so small a proportion of the wind's 
force will be exerted in propelling his vessel in a for- 
ward direction that she will practically stand still. A 
comparison of Figs. 2 and 3 will demonstrate this. 
In Fig. 2 the boat is sailing as near the wind as she 
can, so that the force DC is far greater than the force 
AD, and she will have little headway. In Fig. 3 the 
boat is sailing with the wind a little before the beam, 
so that the propelling force AD is about equal to DC, 
and she will be travelling fast. As has already been 
explained, a boat is so constructed as to offer the least 
possible resistance to the propelling force AD, and, 
on the other hand — by giving her as large an im- 
mersed horizontal section as possible — to offer the ut- 
most resistance to the lateral force DC. 

TACKING 
It has been explained that a properly constructed 
boat can sail within 45 degrees of the wind. If the 

84 



Boating 

wind be right ahead, or nearly so, what is known as 
tacking must be resorted to ; that is, the boat is made 
to sail for a certain distance close-hauled with the 
wind on one side, and is then made to turn and sail 
close-hauled with the wind on the other side. When 
sailing with the wind on her right side she is said to 
be on the starboard tack; with the wind on the left 




w 






w 



^ 



Fig. 4. Fig. 5. 



side she is on the port tack. In Fig. 4 a boat is tack- 
ing right in the teeth of the wind, represented by the 
arrow W, She sails the same distance on each tack, 
each tack being at about right angles to the last. In 
Fig. 5 the wind is not right ahead, but a little on one 
side of the vessel's course. To attain the desired 
point, she is therefore made to sail further on one 
tack than she does on the other, making what the 
sailors call a long and a short leg. 




Vol. 14—4 



Sports and Games 

CENTRE OF EFFORT 

Of the various effects of the wind upon the sails 
of a vessel, the last we have to deal with is its ten- 
dency to blow either the vessel's bow or stern round, 
if the sails are not properly balanced. If, for ex- 
ample, a boat sailing with the wind abeam carry too 
much sail forward — and more especially if the lever- 
age of the head sail, as is the case with a jib, be in- 
creased by setting it at the end of a long bowsprit — 
the boat's bow will be driven off the wind, and the 
steersman will have to counteract this tendency with 
the rudder. 

Now, the wind exerting a side pressure on a boat's 
sail, or sails, acts through a point known as the centre 
of effort of the sails — a point which is, roughly 
speaking, in the centre of the total sail area. It has 
already been explained that the resistance of the 
water to a vessel's leeway acts through a point in the 
centre of the submerged section of the ship's side, 
known as the centre of lateral resistance. These two 
horizontal forces act in opposite directions; conse- 
quently, unless as in Fig. 6, A, the centre of effort of 
the sails, and B, the centre of lateral resistance, are 
in the same vertical line, so that the opposing forces 
balance each other, the vessel will have a ten- 
dency to turn either her bow or her stern toward 
the wind. 

In Fig. 7 we have a vessel sailing close-hauled. 
Here B, the centre of lateral resistance, is further aft 

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Boating 



than the centre of effort A. Now, it is obvious that 
two forces acting at A and B, in the direction of the 
arrows, will tend to turn the vessel's bow round in 
the direction of C — that is, away from the wind. 

In Fig 8, on the other hand, the centre of lateral 
resistance is further forward than the centre of ef- 
fort; consequently the vessel's bow will have a ten- 
dency to turn toward the wind in the direction D. 

When a vessel's bow shows a tendency to run up 




Fig. 



Fig. 



Fig. 9. 



into the wind, she is said to carry weather helm; 
when she shows a tendency to fall off before the 
wind, she is said to carry lee helm. A sailing-boat 
should always carry a little weather helm; then, if a 
squall strike her when she has little steerageway and 
the rudder is useless, she will take care of herself, luff 
quickly up into the wind, and so be in safety. A boat 
carrying lee helm would, in the same conditions, fall 
off before the wind, presenting her broadside to wind 
and wave, and so probably capsize. 

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The novice, who has carefully read this chapter, 
will understand what principles should guide him 
when he sets to work to correct whichever of the two 
faults his craft may display — lee helm or excessive 
weather helm — for the latter makes it necessary to 
keep the rudder over to leeward at a sharp angle, 
thus offering great resistance to the water and check- 
ing the boat's speed. 

A boat carries weather helm when the centre of 
lateral resistance is further forward than the centre 
of effort of the sails. 

A boat carries lee helm when the centre of lateral 
resistance is further aft than the centre of effort of 
the sails. 

Thus to reduce weather helm we can either move 
the centre of lateral resistance further aft or the cen- 
tre of effort of the sails further forward. By shifting 
the ballast so as to lighten the vessel forward, and 
make her heavier aft, we increase the submerged area 
of her after section, and so move back the centre of 
lateral resistance. By shortening her after canvas, 
as by taking in her mizzen, or by increasing her head 
canvas, as by setting a larger jib, the centre of the ef- 
fort of the sails is moved forward. 

Again, if it be found that a boat carry lee helm 
under canvas, it shows that either her ballast must be 
shifted forward, or that the area of her head canvas 
must be reduced. 



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Boating 



ACTION OF THE RUDDER 

The action of the rudder is not difficult to under- 
stand. By its aid the sailor can steer his vessel in the 
required direction, and if she carry — as she should do 
— slight weather helm, he counteracts this, and keeps 
her on her course, by putting his tiller a little over to 
the weather side of the boat, and so pushing the rud- 
der over to the lee side. 

A reference to Fig. 9 will make clear the action 
of the rudder. Here the rudder has been pushed 
over to the port, or left, side of the vessel. The re- 
sistance of the water flowing by it acts in the direction 
of the arrow, at right angles to the rudder's surface. 
This force is resolvable into two other forces, one 
pushing the boat backward, and the other driving 
the boat's stern sidewise to starboard — that is, to the 
right, and consequently turning the bow to port. But 
the axis on which the boat turns when the rudder is 
placed at an angle with the keel is always consider- 
ably forward of the centre of the boat, so that the 
stern of the boat is moved sidewise a greater distance 
than the bow. This will be apparent on referring 
to Fig. 9, in which X is the centre of rotation, while 
the dotted line shows the movement the boat has 
made in response to her tiller. It is important to re- 
member this fact when steering close to anything; 
for when one puts over the helm in order to keep 
one's bow clear of the object, one is very apt by that 
very action to bring one's stern into collision with it. 

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sports and Games 

Some boats do not readily obey their rudders, are 
slow in turning, and describe the segment of a large 
circle in doing so. A boat with its ballast stowed 
amidships will answer her helm, more quickly than 
one in which the ballast is distributed throughout her 
length. A boat that draws little water at either ex- 
tremity, and in which the lateral resistance of the 
water is concentrated on a deeply immersed midship 
section, will answer her helm more quickly than a 
boat whose area of immersed surface is more evenly 
distributed along the boat's length. 



SPLICES, KNOTS, AND TACKLES 

The cordage employed on a small craft is what is 
known as HaWSER-LAID. If a hawser-laid or right- 
hand rope (as it is also called) is opened out, it will 
be found to consist of three strands, each strand be- 
ing formed of several yarns, or threads of hemp 
twisted together. It is laid "with the sun" — that is, 
the strands are twisted together from right to left, 
the sun's apparent course to one facing north. A 
hawser-laid rope should be coiled from right to left, 
with the sun; for if coiled in the reverse direction it 
will kink, and can not be made to form a neat and 
snug coil. 

A Cable-laid rope is made of three hawser-laid 
ropes twisted together from left to right, against the 
sun, and it must be coiled from left to right. 

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Boating 

The eyes of the rigging, the forestay, and other 
parts of rigging liable to be chafed, should be 
WORMED, PARCELLED, and SERVED (see Fig. lo). To 
worm is to lay spun-yarn in the groove between 
the strands of a rope, so that a smooth surface is ob- 
tained on which the parcelling can be evenly laid. 
To parcel is to wind narrow strips of well-tarred can- 
vas round the wormxd rope, following the lay of the 
rope, that is, the spiral formed by the strands. Serv- 
ing a rope consists of winding spun-yarn round the 
rope, over the parcelling; it is laid against the lay of 

I Serving \ Parcelling \ Worming 





Fig. lo. 

the rope. While it is being wormed, parcelled, and 
served, the rope should be stretched out as taut as 
possible, one end being made fast to the bits or other 
convenient place, while the other end is hauled out 
with a tackle. If the rope is a large one, the serving 
is laid on with a serving mallet. 

The free ends of all ropes should be WHIPPED 
(Fig. ii) so as to prevent their unravelling. To do 
this lay one end of a piece of tarred spun-yarn along 
the end of the rope; wind the spun-yard (working 
upward toward the end of the rope) several times 
tightly round the rope and over the end of the spun- 

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yarn, thus gripping the latter. Make a loop of the 
remaining portion of the spun-yarn, and lay the end 
of this loop on the rope, pointing downward away 
from the rope's end. Then take three or four more 
turns with the spun-yarn round the rope and over the 
loose end of the yarn. Pull the yarn-end taut until 
the loop is closed, and cut the ends short off. 

In the following description of the splices, knots, 
etc., certain terms will be employed which it will be 



Fig. 




Fig. 12. 



well to define beforehand. The standing part of a 
rope is the part held in the hand; the end is that end 
of the rope in which the knot, or bend, is to be made ; 
the bight is the loop formed when making a knot, or 
bend. 

When two rope-ends have to be joined perma- 
nently, this is neatly effected by the various splices 
employed by sailors. 

A Short Splice (Fig. 12) is thus made: The 
two rope-ends that have to be joined are unlaid for 
a few inches, so that the three strands of which each 
rope is formed are separated. Each strand-end is 

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Boating 

greased and twisted up into a point so that it can be 
easily manipulated. Then the three strands of one 
rope are so placed across the three strands of the 
other rope that each strand lies closely between two 
strands of the rope opposite. Each strand is then 
passed under the next strand but one to it, of the op- 
posite rope, and is drawn tightly through. The proc- 
ess is repeated, and as a rule each strand is, in all, 
drawn three times through the alternate strands; but 
before being passed through for the last time it is 
tapered, so as to give the splice a neater appearance, 
by cutting off half the yarns composing it. Lastly, 
the loose ends are cut off and the spliced part of the 
rope is hammered into shape with a mallet. In order 
to open the strands out so as to make way for the ends 
to pass through, a marlinespike or pricker — which 
should be well greased — is employed. 

When two ropes are connected by a short splice, 
the spliced part is thicker than the rope itself. But 
if the ropes are joined by a LONG SPLICE^ the spliced 
portion is no thicker than the rope, and can therefore 
be rove through any block which will take the rope. 
Consequently the long splice must always be used for 
repairing a halyard, sheet, or other part of the rig- 
ging which has to run through blocks. 

A Long Splice is thus made : The two ropes that 
are to be joined are unlaid for at least four times as 
far as would be the case if making a short splice. 
The strands are brought together as in the short 

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splice; then one strand of each rope {a, a, in Fig. 
13) is unlaid for a still further distance (about 
half as far again). This leaves two grooves in the 
rope, which are next filled up by neatly laying in 
each of them the opposite central strands b, b. This 
brings the strands together in pairs in three places as 
in Fig. 14. At these three points the strands are re- 
duced in thickness by cutting off half the yarns, as 
when completing a short splice. Each pair of strands 




Fig. 15. 



is tied in an overhand knot, and the ends are tucked 
under the alternate strands opposite as in a short 
splice. The rope is, lastly, well stretched with tackle, 
and the projecting ends of the divided strands are cut 

off. 

When a rope's end has to be spliced round a block 
or thimble, an Eye-SPLICE (Fig. 15) is employed. 
To make this, the end of the rope is unlaid and the 
strands are spliced into the standing part of the rope 
in the same way as when making a short splice. 

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Boating 

A Cut-splice (Fig. i6) is formed with two ropes 
by splicing the end of each into the standing part of 
the other as in an eye-splice. On a small yacht the 
shrouds are sometimes fitted over the hounds with a 
cut-splice, and this is neater than having two shrouds 
with a separate eye in each. 

If one strand of a rope be cut through, the dam- 
age can be made good by removing a long piece of 
the injured strand and by laying in the groove thus 
left a new strand from another piece of similar rope. 




Fig. i6. 



The ends are then knotted, halved, and turned under, 
as when making a long splice. 

A Grommet^ a useful rope-ring, is thus made: A 
strand is removed from a rope, care being taken to 
preserve its spiral score, which serves as a guide in 
the construction of the grommet. One end of the 
strand is bent round and laid on the standing part so 
as to form a ring of the required size. Then the 
other end is wound round this ring twice, fitting into 
the score, and so forming a three-stranded rope. The 
ends are knotted, halved, and turned under as in a 
long splice. 

The following are the more useful knots, bends, 
and hitches employed at sea for temporarily attach- 

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sports and Games 

ing ropes. They are all ingeniously contrived so as 
to hold securely and not to slip, while they can yet 
be undone easily and quickly, and do not jam like 
some of the wonderful and inextricable knots the 
greenhorn is apt to tie when carrying out an order in 
a hurry. 

The Overhand Knot (Fig. 17) is the knot which 
as has already been stated, is tied in the strands when 
completing a long splice or a grommet. 

Fig. 18 is a Reef Knot. The reef-points of a sail 




Fig. 19. 



Fig. 20. 



are tied up with this knot, and it is also frequently of 
service for other purposes. It consists of two over- 
hand knots. In tying the second knot care must be 
taken so to cross the ends that the standing part and 
end of each rope pass through the bight of the other 
rope together, and not from opposite sides, as they do 
in the Granny, of which a diagram is given (Fig. 
19) , so as to show the novice what he must studiously 
avoid making if he would avoid much chafT from 
the holder hands. 

The Common Bend (Fig. 20) is useful for bend- 

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Boating 

ing two ropes together. A bight is made with the 
end of one rope. The end of the other rope is passed 
through the bight, round both parts of the bight, and 
under its own standing part. The bend is then pulled 

taut. 

Two Half Hitches (Fig. 21 ) are used for bend- 
ing a rope to a spar, a boat's painter to a dolphin, or 
a mooring-ring on the quay, etc. 

A Clove Hitch (Fig. 22) is used to make fast a 






Fig. 23. 



Fig. 24. 



small rope to a larger standing rope or to a spar. 
Thus the ratlines are tied to the shrouds with clove 

hitches. 

When a rope has to be bent on a spar quickly, this 
can be done by means of a TIMBER HiTCH (Fig. 23) . 
When jammed tight it will not slip ; yet it can be cast 

off in a moment. 

When a rope has to be attached temporarily to a 
hook {e.g. to the hook of a tackle) in order to get a 
pull on it, a Blackwall Hitch (Fig. 24) is em- 
ployed, 

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sports and Games 



When a rope has to be made fast to another rope 
in order to haul upon it, a ROLLING HiTCH (Fig. 25) 
is used, as this will not slip down if properly made. 
Thus, when a shroud has to be hauled out taut for 




Fig. 25. 



setting up, the tail end of the tackle is fastened to the 
shroud with this hitch. In the figure the Jiitch ap- 
pears with its parts loose; but these, of course, have 
to be drawn together and jammed before applying 
the strain. 




Fig. 26. 



Fig. 27. 




To form a loop in a rope that will not slip or jam, 
a Bowline Knot is employed. To make this knot 
(Fig. 26) a little practice is required. 

In a Running Bowline (Fig. 27) the loop made 

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Boating 

by the bowline knot runs upon the standing part of 
the rope, thus forming a running noose. 

A Bowline on a Bight (Fig. 28) is a bowline 
made after a different fashion on the doubled rope. 
It is used when the knot has to be made in the mid- 
dle of the rope at a distance from the ends. 

With a Fisherman's Bend (Fig. 29) a rope can 
be very securely fastened to an anchor shackle, or 




Fig. 29. 

mooring-ring. When employed for bending one's 
cable on to the anchor, the end of the rope should 
be seized on the standing part, as in the figure, with 
a piece of stout twine. 

GafiP topsail halyards are generally bent on the 




Fig. 30. 

topsail yard with a TOPSAIL HALYARD Bend, which 
can not slip if properly made and drawn close. This 
bend (Fig. 30) is made by taking three turns round 
the yard with the halyard, leading it back over the 
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Sports and Games 

standing part, under the three turns, and back under 
the first turn. 

The topsail sheet is bent to the cringle of the top- 
sail with a Topsail Sheet Bend (Fig. 31). 

A Sheepshank (Fig. 32) is employed to shorten 
a rope temporarily, e.g. a topmast shroud, when the 
topmast is lowered. On most yachts, however, now- 
adays, wire topmast shrouds are used instead of hemp 
ones, each shroud having two joints, so that when the 
topmast is housed, the lowest joint is unshackled and 





Fig. 32. 



Fig. 31. 

Stowed away, and the upper joint, being just of the 
right length, is set up with the tackle or lanyards. 

There are various tackle and purchases employed 
on a yacht's rigging, by which mechanical advantage 
is gained; but of course what is gained in power is 
lost in time. Thus a system of pulleys that enables a 
pull of five pounds to raise fifty pounds, involves the 
hauling of ten times the length of rope through the 
blocks than would be the case were no purchase used. 
On a small yacht, therefore, where it is important 
that sails should be hoisted and lowered quickly, no 
purchase should be more powerful than is absolutely 
necessary, that is, it should just enable one man to do 

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Boating 

the particular work for which it is employed. To 
overblock a little yacht entails a delay in every opera- 
tion, and an increased risk of ropes jamming. 

The following are the tackles and purchases in 
common use on small yachts : 

The Single-Whip Purchase (Fig. 33) has a 



Fig. 33 



Fig. 34 



Fig. 35 




Fig. 36 



single block. This is the purchase employed for the 
fore and jib halyards of a small cutter; the block, as 
is ordinarily the usage with a cutter's rigging, be- 
ing hooked on to the cringle of the sail. A pull of 
one pound on the hauling part puts a strain of two 
pounds on the block. 

The Whip-upon-Whip Purchase (Fig. 34) is 
employed for the preventer backstays on small cut- 



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ters. A pull of one pound on the hauling part exerts 
a force of four pounds at the upper block. 

The Gun-Tackle Purchase (Fig. 35) has two 
single blocks with the standing part of the rope made 
fast to the upper block. A pull of one pound on the 
hauling part exerts a force of three pounds at the 
upper block. This purchase can be employed for 
bowsprit shrouds, main tack tricing line, etc. 

A Luff-Tackle Purchase (Fig. 36) has the 
same power as the whip-upon-whip purchase. It has 
one single and one double block, the standing part of 
the tackle being fastened to the single block. It is 
used for a variety of purposes, among others for the 
main sheet on a small cutter. 

A Watch Tackle is a luff tackle with a tail — 
a rope some feet in length — on the double block, and 
a hook on the single block. A watch tackle should 
always be kept in some convenient place on a yacht's 
deck, for it is employed on all sorts of odd jobs when 
more "beef" is wanted. It is indeed almost worth an 
extra hand on board, so sailors dub it the "Handy 
Billy." Among other things it is useful for setting 
up the rigging. It is employed as follows: the sin- 
gle block is hooked on to a ring-bolt on deck, or to 
a strop or bight of a rope secured to the bits or other 
strong piece of timber; while the tail of the double 
block is fastened by a rolling hitch (see Fig. 25) to 
the shroud or rope which has to be hauled taut. 

Power can be multiplied when necessary, by clap- 

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Boating 

ping one purchase on another. A Luff-upon-Luff 
Tackle, for example, is formed with two watch 
tackles by bending the tail of the double block of the 
second tackle on the fall of the first tackle. A pull of 
one pound on the hauling part will then exert a force 
of sixteen pounds at the further end of the tackle. 

If some accident happen to one part of a tackle 
or purchase — if a strand be chafed through, for ex- 
ample — and it becomes necessary to repair the dam- 
age, while at the same time it is undesirable to slack 
up the tackle, or to take it from the work it is doing 
(e.g. in the case of a yacht's halyards or sheets during 
a close race), the tackle can be racked while the re- 
pair is being carried on. Thus, if the hauling part of 
the throat halyards be cut, the other three or more 
parts of the halyards are racked by passing a piece of 
thin line round and between them several times 
tightly, and then tying the two ends of the line to- 
gether with a reef knot. This grips the parts, pre- 
vents the halyard from running through the blocks, 
and enables them to hold on and withstand the strain 
put upon them, while the injured part is cast loose 
and repaired at leisure. 

Some of the blocks used on board a yacht — those, 
for example, which are hooked on to the mast for the 
throat and peak halyards — are usually stropped with 
iron; and, in the neatly finished blocks, the iron is 
covered by the shell of the block. But for other parts 
of the rigging ordinary blocks are employed; and 

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• sports and Games 

the amateur sailor should know how to splice an eye 
in the end of a piece of hemp or wire rope for the 
strop of a tail block, and how to make a grommet, or 
a selvagee strop. 

I have already explained how to splice an eye in 
a rope, and how to make a grommet. For stropping 
a block a Selvagee Strop is to be preferred to a 
grommet, though both are used for this purpose. A 
selvagee strop is thus made: two large nails are firmly 
driven into a piece of board at a distance apart of 




Fig. 37. 



about half the circumference of the required strop. 
One end of a ball of rope-yarn is fastened to one of 
the nails, and the yarn is wound round the two nails 
(see Fig. 37) as tightly as possible, until the ring 
thus formed is sufficiently stout. Then the yarns 
are tied together, or marled, at short intervals, with 
twine, and lastly the strop is well stretched with 
tackle. 

Grommets made of wire rope can be advantage- 
ously employed on a small vessel for the strops of the 
main-sheet blocks, as such grommets can not stretch 
so much as to allow the blocks to slip through them— 

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Boating 

a not infrequent accident, and a very awkward one, 
when a rope strop is used. 

All strops, whether of rope or wire, whether sel- 
vagee strops, grommets, or eye-splices, should be 
coated with canvas, or, better still, with leather. If 
coated with canvas, the strop should be painted; if 
leather is employed, it should be sewn on the strop 
wet, as it will shrink when dry, and so fit tightly to 
the strop. 

It is well to have a swivel or revolving hook on 
one of the blocks of any movable tackle forming part 




Fig. 38 



of the rigging; for example, on the tackle of the 
runners and of the preventer backstays. This will 
enable turns to be taken out of the tackle without 
unhooking it. 

Galvanized Clip-HOOKS (Fig. 38) should be 
spliced into the ends of such parts of rigging as have 
frequently to be hooked and unhooked. When hook- 
ing a clip-hook to an eye, the two parts of the clip- 

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hook are opened out; they are then closed over the 
eye, one part overlapping the other. The two parts 
should always be seized together, else they may shake 
open and release the eye. Mousing is the sailor's 
name for this operation. 

In Fig. 38 is shown the method usually employed 
on small boats for hooking the jib-sheets on to the 
clew of the jib by means of clip-hooks. The sheets 
are formed by one rope, in the middle of which the 
eye of the clip-hooks is seized with strong twine. 
Clip-hooks are more convenient than the wooden tog- 
gles often used for jib-sheets, and are also to be pre- 
ferred to spring clip-hooks, which are apt to shake 
open despite the spring which is supposed to keep 
them closed. 

THE SMALL OPEN SAILING-BOAT 

A SMALL boat can be sailed single-handed without 
difficulty, and which is easy to row — so that, if the 
wind fails, one can put out the sculls and pull her 
along at a fair pace — is the best sort of craft on which 
the novice can pass his early apprenticeship. That he 
can lower his canvas if he finds himself in a diffi- 
culty, and take to his oars, considerably lessens the 
risk consequent on his inexperience. 

We will first confine ourselves to the description 
of open boats only, of various sorts; for a boat so 
small that she can be easily rowed should not be cov- 

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Boating 

ered in, nor be half-decked. A half-decked boat — 
that is, one decked in the bows and stern, and having 
a narrow deck with coamings on either side — is in 
some respects safer than an open boat; if struck by a 
squall she can heel over to a much greater angle with- 
out shipping water than would be possible were she 
open. But when a small boat is thus half-decked, her 
owner is apt to imagine that he is in possession, not of 
a boat, but of a small yacht, and is likely to over-spar 
her, over-ballast her, and over-canvas her, conse- 
quently to over-sail her. She will no longer be the 
sort of boat I am now recommending — one easy to 
sail and easy to row. The decking occupies more 
room than can well be spared in a small boat, and 
one is cramped on board. The decking is also 
weighty, and tends to make the boat topheavy, so 
that to counteract this she requires more ballast and 
becomes a heavy boat, difficult to beach, hard to pull, 
wet in a seaway. On many parts of the coast fisher- 
men have a strong objection to decking even the bows 
of their small craft, and maintain that the deck of- 
fers great resistance to the wind, so that the vessel is 
pressed down, and is not nearly so buoyant as if she 
were open. It is certain that, other things being 
equal, the open boat is the liveliest and the best sea 
boat. The half-decked boat is only to be recom- 
mended when the craft is big enough to be practically 
a small yacht, with a cuddy under the decking for- 
ward. The above remarks, of course, do not apply 

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to boats intended for racing. These, however small, 
must, as a rule, be heavily ballasted, and may be 
partly decked. 

The following observations apply to small sailing 
and rowing boats of all classes : — 

CLINKER AND CARVEL BUILT BOATS 
Small boats are generally clinker-built. In a 
clinker-built boat the planks overlap each other, 
whereas a carvel-built boat presents a smooth surface. 
The clinker-built boat has very light framework to 
support the planking. The carvel-built boat is put 
together much in the same way as a big vessel — that 
is, she has a framework of solid timbers to which the 
planking is fastened. 

The carvel-built boat has the following advan- 
tages over the clinker-built boat: — She is much 
stronger, will last longer, and is more easily repaired ; 
thus, if a portion of her planking has been damaged, 
it can be easily replaced, whereas, it is difficult to 
patch the planking of a clinker-built boat. When 
the carvel-built craft lies at anchor, the tide ripples 
almost silently along her smooth sides, whereas 
against the irregular surface of the clinker-built boat 
the water ever splashes noisily, and at night is apt to 
disturb the slumbers of one unaccustomed to rough- 
ing it on a small boat. 

On the other hand, the clinker-built boat is much 
cheaper than the carvel-built; she is lighter — an im- 

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Boating 

portant consideration when a boat is intended for 
rowing and for hauling up on a beach. The clinker- 
built boat is also more buoyant and lively in a seaway ; 
for the edges of the overlapping planks extending 
horizontally and facing downward offer consider- 
able resistance to the water, so that the boat Is lifted 
by every wave. When everything is taken Into con- 
sideration, there can be little doubt that for the class 
of boats with which I am dealing in this chapter the 
clinker-built is to be preferred. 

Remember, when selecting your craft, that a boat 
constructed of pine or Swedish fir is not only the 
cheapest, but is also the lightest, and, ceteris paribus, 
should outsail and outrow a boat built of heavier ma- 
terial; but, on the other hand, she will not last long, 
and the soft wood readily gets torn and bruised. The 
top streak of a fir-built boat should be of cedar, or of 
some hard wood. 

If the boat is to be frequently beached or sub- 
jected to other rough treatment, it is better that she 
should be built of elm or oak. 

The ballast of a small boat, more especially If she 
has to be frequently drawn up on a beach, should be 
so arranged that it can be readily removed. Iron or 
lead blocks, of half a hundred-weight each, with han- 
dles to them, are a very convenient form of ballast for 
a small boat; for they can be easily lifted out. Bat- 
tens should be fastened to the floor of the boat to keep 
the ballast In Its place; as otherwise, when the boat 

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has listed in a squall, the ballast might fall to leeward, 
and so cause a capsize. As metal ballast is heavier 
than any other, it can be stowed low, more especially 
if it is molded to fit into the flooring; and conse- 
quently the boat ballasted with it will be stififer under 
canvas, and will sail faster than one ballasted with 
a more bulky material, such as stones or sand. 

The risks of sailing are much reduced for the 
novice if his craft is unsinkable. If a boat will float 
though full of water, her owner, in the event of a 
capsize, can hold on to her side until some one comes 
to his rescue; and in most cases his craft also will be 
recovered undamaged, whereas a boat of higher spe- 
cific gravity, sinking in deep water, will in all prob- 
ability be lost. Water, therefore, though somewhat 
bulky, is the safest form of ballast that can be used, 
and is strongly recommended to the tyro. Iron or 
zinc water-tanks should be constructed to fit closely 
into the bottom of the boat amidships. A boat thus 
ballasted is practically no heavier when filled with 
water after a capsize than if she had no ballast at all 
in her; for the weight of the tanks themselves is in- 
considerable. By means of a small pump, the tanks 
can be readily filled or emptied at will — a great ad- 
vantage; for, by discharging the water ballast, one 
can materially lighten the boat when one lowers the 
sail to take to the oars, or when one is about to run 
her on the beach and haul her up. If lead or iron 
ballast be employed, the boat should be made unsink- 

J lO 



Boating 

able by placing in her water-tight compartments, 
which thus convert her into a lifeboat. One com- 
partment in the bows, and another in the stern-sheets, 
will suffice, and, if made to fit closely, they occupy 
but little room. 

Bags of sand are sometimes used for ballasting 
small boats; but these are clumsy to handle, occupy 
a lot of room, and greatly increase in weight when 
the sand gets wet. 

I have already explained that the leeway of a 
boat, or her tendency to drift sidewise when she is 
sailing with the wind before the beam, must be coun- 
teracted by giving her a deep keel, or by otherwise 
providing an area or lateral surface below the water- 
line, and thus increasing the lateral resistance. 

One of the author's first sailing-craft was an old 
ship's boat, recovered from a vessel that was wrecked 
at the mouth of the Seine, to which he affixed a 
False Keel in order to prevent leeway. The false 
keel (of wood) was bolted on to the original keel, 
and attained its greatest depth, of about six inches, 
a little abaft the middle of the boat, tapering i;p to- 
ward the bow and stern. This is an inexpensive 
method of converting an old open boat into a fairly 
good sailing-craft. A centre-board, however — ^which 
I shall shortly describe — is far more effective as a 
preventer of leeway; for with a given area of im- 
mersed lateral surface, the keel that is deep but not 
long (like the centre-board) offers the greatest lat- 

III 



Sports and Games 

eral resistance to the water. A centre-board boat is 
also handier and quicker in stays than an open boat 
provided with a false keeL 

The boat provided with a false keel is unsuitable 
for an open coast where beaching is frequently nec- 
essary, or for shallow water. If these be the condi- 
tions of sailing, the boat should have a shallow keel 
and a flat floor. A sharp boat plows through the sand 
or shingle on being hauled up, whereas the flat-floored 




boat is drawn up with little labor, and is not so likely 
to strain herself when taking the ground in a surf. 
The beach boat should be providedwith BiLGE PIECES 
(Fig. 39). These keels, running along a great por- 
tion of the bilge on either side, should be of hard 
wood, and be so placed that they take all the wear 
and tear when the boat is being beached; without 
them a boat's planking is soon knocked to pieces by 
beaching. Bilge keels increase the lateral resistance, 
and so to some extent lessen leeway; but unless they be 

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Boating 

so large as to be clumsy and to interfere considerably 
with the boat's speed, they are, so far as the author's 
experience goes, generally insufficient by themselves 
to enable a boat to beat to windward in a satisfactory 
manner; and a centre-board or lee-boards will be 
found necessary. 

There is, however, one sort of boat (one hesitates 




Fig. 40. — Yorkshire Coble. 



to recommend it to the novice, for it is a tricky and 
somewhat difficult craft to handle) which, while ad- 
mirably adapted for beaching, yet sails very well in- 
deed to windward, even through a heavy sea, without 
the aid of centre-board or lee-board. This is the 
coble of Northumberland, possibly the best open boat 
in the world for a harborless stormy coast. The 
coble is easy to row, safe to beach, and can be launched 

113 



sports and Games 

and put to sea even in very rough weather. The coble 
(Fig. 40) has a considerable draught of v^ater for- 
w^ard; her keel, deepest at the bows, tapers away to 
nothing amidships, so that abaft that point she has a 
perfectly flat floor, and draws very little water. This 
deep bow and the rudder, which is large and de- 
scends far below the boat's bottom, provide sufficient 
lateral resistance to stop the leeway. It will be no- 
ticed that the bow is high and flaring, so that the 
coble rises to the seas, and is not readily swamped. 

When a coble is to be beached, the rudder is un- 
shipped, the stern is turned to the shore, and she is 
backed in with the oars until her flat stern grounds. 
Both when launching and beaching her high bow is 
thus presented to the surf; it is astonishing to see with 
what safety these boats, skilfully handled, can be car- 
ried across the line of the North Sea breakers when 
the winter wind blows hard on shore. 

THE CENTRE-BOARD 
The most effective method of preventing the lee- 
way of a small boat is to provide her with a centre- 
board. The centre-board, now so familiar to all 
who boat, is most generally constructed of iron, 
but if lightness is an important consideration, it 
might be better to have it of wood, as is often 
the case with our own boats. On the other hand, 
the iron centre-board acts as ballast, and, being so 
deeply immersed, produces a far greater effect in 

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Boating 

stiffening the boat than would a much greater weight 
of iron stowed inside of her. The centre-board is 
generally of triangular shape. When hauled up it 
is contained in a water-tight trunk, or case, in the 
body of the boat; it works on a pivot at its fore end, 
and when lowered passes through the centre of the 
keel. When the boat strikes on a shoal, the centre- 
board is forced up into the trunk, and warns the 
steersman that it is time to go about or make for 
deeper water. If the centre-board is not jammed, it 
rarely bends or breaks when the boat runs on shore; 
but this does occasionally occur. It is better to em- 
ploy an iron handle than a chain for hauling up the 
centre-board. The handle has a joint, so that it can 
be doubled back and be laid snugly along the top of 
the trunk when the centre-board is up. The advan- 
tage of the handle is that by forcing it down one can 
release the centre-board if the latter be jammed, as 
not unfrequently happens, by pebbles or bits of wood 
or weed that have found their way into the trunk. 

The centre-board trunk occupies a good deal of 
space in the boat, and is often found to be much in 
the way. To obviate this, a folding centre-board has 
been invented which requires no trunk, and which the 
author has found to answer very well on canoes he 
has used on Canadian waters. This centre-board 
consists of three or more plates of iron, at one end 
working on a pivot in the keel, and made so as to 
open out and close like a fan. The plates are hauled 



sports and Games 

up or lowered by a rod working in a tube which 
passes through the keel into the boat. When hoisted, 
the plates fold up and lie snugly alongside each other 
in a chamber cut into the middle of the keel. 

LEE-BOARDS 

The simplest method of supplying a boat with 
the means of offering lateral resistance to the water, 
and so checking leeway, is to fit her with lee-boards. 
Lee-boards are not often to be seen anywhere save 
on the shallow Dutch waters, where small-boat sail- 
ing is quite as well understood as it is here. There 
lee-boards are almost always to be found on every 
yacht. Lee-boards have several advantages over cen- 
tre-boards; they do not jam, break off, or strain the 
boat when one runs aground, but always come up at 
once on touching the bottom. Some shallow waters 
(the Danish fiords, for example, among which the 
author once cruised in a lee-board boat) are in sum- 
mer overgrown with weeds, through which a centre- 
board craft could never force her way: the long wa- 
ter growth would wind round the plate and choke 
the trunk; on the other hand, a lee-board can always 
be pulled up without difficulty when it gets foul, and 
be quickly cleared of the weeds. 

If expense is a consideration, the novice can not 
do better than fit his first little boat with lee-boards. 
We will suppose that he has purchased a second-hand 
craft for a few dollars. To fit a centre-board into 

ii6 



Boating 

her would be a costly bit of work, only to be under- 
taken by a skilled boat-builder. But any boy who 
has even a very small experience of the use of car- 
penter's tools can construct a lee-board and fit it to 
his boat. The author once placed lee-boards on an 
old P. and O. lifeboat, and sailed with her from Ham- 
mersmith to Copenhagen and back, cruising round 
the Zuider Zee, coasting up the Frisian islands, wind- 




Fig. 41. — Ketch Rig with Lee-boards. 

ing in and out among the many pleasant fiords, straits, 
and islands of the Baltic. With her varnished teak 
sides and oaken lee-boards she looked very well, and 
her sailing powers were as excellent as her appear- 
ance. She was double-ended — that is, her stern was 
pointed like her bow; she was ketch-rigged; and, 
drawing little over two feet with her lee-boards up, 
she could put into all sorts of interesting little creeks 
and rivers closed to bigger craft. Fig. 41 will give 

117 

Vol. 14— 5 



sports and Games 

some idea of her appearance and of the shape of her 
lee-boards. Lee-boards for large boats are made in 
sections held together by stout iron bands, and are 
hauled up by chains and tackle; but for a small boat, 
a lee-board made out of a single plank will do very 
well, and no iron-work is needed. 

Almost anything that can float can be made to sail 
to windward by lowering a plank vertically over the 
side; for that is practically all a lee-board amounts 
to — a fact to be borne in mind when one wishes to 
extemporize a sailing-craft in some out-of-the-way 
corner of the world where means and appliances are 
few. Thus some years ago the author, being in Flo- 
rida, on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, took it into 
his head to undertake a cruise down the shallow chan- 
nels that divide the mainland from the long line of 
palmetto-covered keys or islands that fringe this 
beautiful coast. He found nothing in the way of a 
craft available for his purpose, save what the natives 
were pleased to call a canoe; she was a little punt, a 
shallow, clumsily built trough, in shape resembling 
rather one of the trays in which photographers de- 
velop their plates than a boat. He made a sail for 
her, and then out of a pine plank cut a lee-board 
about three feet long, shaped as in Fig. 42, stout at 
the head and down the centre, but tapering away to 
a narrow edge at the foot and sides. Having deter- 
mined by experiment at what part of the boat's side 
the lee-board was most effective, he fitted an iron pin 

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Boating 

(see the Fig.) on either gunwale. A rope was then 
rove through the head of the lee-board, and knotted 
so as to prevent it from slipping through. The other 
end of the rope was made fast to a cleat at the bottom 
of the boat amidships. The lee-board could thus be 
easily thrown over from one side to the other, accord- 
ing to the tack on which the boat was sailing; the 




F:g. 42. — Lee-board. 



rope, being always passed over the fore side of either 
iron pin, kept the lee-board in its place, and pre- 
vented it from sliding aft. Another rope, rove 
through a hole at the lower end of the lee-board, led 
aft, and served to raise it. The above is the simplest 
method of fitting lee-boards, and the result will be 
found to be perfectly satisfactory. In the punt he 
has described, the author, provided with rod and gun, 

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sports and Games 

for game and fish were plentiful, undertook a long 
cruise among the bayous and channels of the Gulf 
Coast, camping out each night in pine forests on the 
mainland or on the sands of desert key, much aston- 
ishing the few natives he met; for a lee-board was an 
unknown mystery to them, and they marvelled to see 
one of their rough country punts turn to windward so 
well when provided with this strange invention. The 
punt drew but three inches of water when her lee- 
board was up, and skimmed over the water at a won- 
derful rate. It must be confessed that she was not 
a good sea-boat: she had very little freeboard, and 
was easily swamped. In fact, whenever the wind 
rose and the water became choppy she was in immi- 
nent danger of filling. And yet her skipper felt no 
anxiety, for the peril was not so great as one would 
gather from the above statement. The water through 
which he sailed was generally considerably under two 
feet in depth, often so shallow that foundering was a 
physical impossibility. When it got very rough he 
adopted a bold course. He used to lighten his vessel 
by stepping out of her into the tossing waters, and, 
walking ahead of her with towline over his shoulder, 
would tow her against wind and sea until calmer 
weather permitted him to re-embark and hoist his 
canvas. The working of lee-boards is very simple. 
When running before the wind they are raised ; when 
turning to windward the weather one is raised and the 
lee one is lowered. 

1 20 



Boating 

If a boat's sides are not straight up and down, but 
flare out, as is usually the case, a chock of wood must 
be nailed on either side a little above the water-line 
to support the lee-boards and keep them perpen- 
dicular. 

The Florida canoe above mentioned was practi- 
cally what in some places is called a sailing-punt. 
Such a boat is only suited for sailing in smooth water, 
and though not exactly beautiful to look upon, she 
will sail fairly well, and is incontestably the cheapest 
of all boats to build. Indeed, so simple is the con- 
struction, that, if proper instructions are given to 
him, any village carpenter can turn out a craft of this 
description; and an amateur of small means, possess- 
ing some knowledge of the use of tools, can build one 
for himself out of a few deal planks, and some hard 
wood for stem, keel, and knees. If the boat has a 
centre-board (which is far more difficult to con- 
struct than lee-boards) this should be of wood, not of 
iron; and, having plenty of beam, she should need no 
ballast. With such a boat, which with sail, oars, etc., 
should not cost above thirty dollars, the novice can 
with advantage pass his first apprenticeship at sailing. 

POINTED STERNS 

The double-ended boat is far better adapted for 

use on rough seas than a boat having a square stern. 

Hence lifeboats and the small fishing-craft of the 

Baltic and other stormy seas are thus constructed. A 

121 



sports and Games 

good double-ended boat with plenty of sheer — that 
is, with her bulwarks forming a bold curve from bow 
to stern — is strongly to be recommended to the tyro. 
He will find that such a boat will steer far more easily 
than the usual square-sterned boat when running be- 
fore a heavy sea. She is then far safer than a boat of 
any other form. Presenting a sharp wedge to the 
following rollers, they glide by her and she rises like 
a duck to each sea. A boat with a square stern, or, 
worse still, with a counter — an abomination on a 
small craft — behaves in a very different manner. 
The following seas, striking her bluff opposing stern 
with force, are apt to drive her bows under water, or 
cause her to broach to — that is, force her round with 
their impact till she is broadside on to the sea, and is 
in serious danger of being swamped or rolled over 
by a wave before she can be paid off before the wind 
again. The sharp-sterned boat is also obviously far 
the safest to beach through a heavy surf. 

THE RIG 
After the novice has selected his open boat, it re- 
mains for him to decide how he shall rig her. The 
following are the more usual methods of rigging 
small open sailing-boats of the class dealt with in this 
chapter. The rigs I am about to describe require no 
booms, and are therefore the safest for the novice. 
A sail that has no boom — a lug, for example — when 
the sheet is let go in a squall, blows away before the 

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Boating 

wind like a flag, and can not capsize the boat. This 
is not the case with a sail stretched out on a boom, 
which always offers some resistance to the wind, even 
when the sheet is let go. With the boomsail a jibe 
in a strong wind is a risky proceeding. On the other 
hand, a boat can not sail her best without a boom; 




Fig. 43. — Mount's Bay Boat. Dipping Lug Mainsail — Standing Lug Mizzen. 



when running before the wind the sail forms a bag, 
and does not hold so much wind as it would if its 
foot were extended on a boom. It is only when the 
boat is on a wind that the boomless sail can be got to 
stand flat, and then only if the sheet is led well aft and 
made fast to a place exactly in the line of the foot of 
the sail. 

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sports and Games 

The Dipping-Lug (Fig. 43) is much used by 
fishermen on their open boats; it is a very safe sail 
when handled by skilled men, but it has some serious 
disadvantages, and is not to be recommended to the 
novice. The sail has no boom, and the tack is made 
fast in the bows; consequently every time the boat 
goes about or jibes, the sail has to be lowered, passed 
over to the other side of the mast, and hoisted again. 
A lug-sailed boat, therefore, can not well be sailed sin- 
gle-handed, and even when fully manned is a very in- 
convenient craft for tacking in narrow waters. More- 
over, if, through some clumsiness on the part of the 
steersman, or by the action of the waves, the boat luffs 
up into the wind's eye, the fore part of the sail, be- 
tween tack and mast, is taken aback, and a capsize is 
then very likely to occur. It is therefore important, 
if the novice employs this rig, that his tack should be 
so arranged as to be let go in a second. The author's 
plan on a lug-rigged boat he once owned was to lead 
a rope with an iron thimble spliced at the end of it 
through an eyebolt in the bows. The tack of the sail 
was hooked into the thimble, and the rope was made 
fast to a cleat in the stern sheets, so that it could be 
cast off in a moment and so send the tack flying out. 

But the Standing-Lug (Fig. 44) is a very con- 
venient sail for the amateur boat-sailor. The tack 
is made fast to the mast, or to the thwart through 
which the mast passes, and the sail does not require to 
be dipped when the boat jibes or goes about. The 

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Boating 

yard is hooked to a traveller — an iron ring working 
on the mast, to which the end of the halyard is fast- 
ened. A lugsail, in order to stand well, should have 
a high peak. The smartest lug-sailed open pleasure- 
boats are to be found on the Clyde, and among them 
are some very fast racers. In these boats the main- 
sheet works on an iron horse, and the halyard is pro- 




Fig. 44. — Standing Lug. 

vided with a lufif-tackle purchase, so that the sail can 
be swigged up taut. 

A boat rigged with a standing-lug mainsail and 
mizzen, and a jib, as in Fig. 44, is very handy and 
safe. If it blows hard the mainsail can be lowered, 
and the boat can be sailed under mizzen and jib. The 
mizzen sheet leads through a sheave-hole at the end 
of the bumpkin — as a spar projecting over the stern 
is called. 

125 



Sports and Games 

Another favorite rig for small boats is the SpriT- 
SAIL rig (Fig. 45) . A spritsail, if well cut and care- 
fully set, stands flatter than a lugsail; for the long 
spar, or sprit, extending diagonally across the sail, 
prevents it from bagging out. As a rule, the luff of 
the sail is laced to the mast, but in the larger boats 
mast-hoops are employed. The tack is fastened to 




Fig. 45. — Spritsail. 

the mast. An iron thimble at the throat of the sail 
is hooked on to an iron traveller working on the mast 
and attached to the end of the halyard. The sprit is 
a spar tapering toward each end ; one end fits into an 
eye at the peak of the sail, and the other end into what 
is called the snotter. The snotter is a short piece of 
rope with an eye spliced into it at each end; it is 

116 



Boating 

passed round the mast, one eye is rove through the 
other, and the loop thus formed when tightened grips 
the mast firmly. The end of the sprit fits into the 
first-mentioned eye. 

To set a spritsail, first hoist it; place the upper 
end of the sprit into the eye at the peak of the sail, 
and then place the lower end into the eye of the snot- 
ter. Lastly, push the snotter up the mast until the 
sail, standing taut and flat, prevents it going up any 
further. Wet the snotter if it has a tendency to slip 
down the mast. In bigger boats the snotter is hoisted 
and kept in its place by a tackle fitted to the mast, and 
so can not slip. It is of the utmost importance that 
the snotter should be strong, and it should be replaced 
so soon as it shows any signs of wearing out; for 
should the snotter, on which there is always a great 
strain, happen to break when the boat is under way 
in a breeze, the sprit may be driven through the bot- 
tom of the boat. The thing that the skipper dreads 
most in bad weather is that his heavy sprit should 
get adrift and "take command." 

This is one of the safest of sails. The sprit can 
be quickly unshipped in a squall, and then the sail 
blows out a mere flag, offering little resistance to the 
wind; or again, the sail can be brailed up in a mo- 
ment to the mast with the brailing-lines; these lead 
through blocks on the mast or on the mast-hoops, pass 
through eyelets in the leach of the sail, and so go 
right round the sail. On hauling on these lines the 

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Sports and Games 

sail is snugly furled up along the mast — the most 
rapid imaginable way of relieving a craft of her can- 
vas until a squall has passed by. 

The Jib-Headed or Leg-of-Mutton sail, like 
that represented in Fig. 46, is in some respects the 




Fig. 46. — Leg-o'-Mutton Sail. 



safest of all rigs for a small open boat, and it is very 
easy to handle. It will be observed that the weight 
of canvas is mostly in the body of the boat, and that 
there is very little weight aloft. The sail is laced to 
the mast, which need be but a light spar, as it has no 
heavy gaff or yard to support, and small strain comes 

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Boating 

upon any part of it. One halyard hoists the sail. 
The sail can be easily rolled up and tied along the 
mast, or braiiing-lines can be employed as in the 
spritsail-rigged boat. 

OPEN BOATS WITH BOOM-SAILS, AND 
HALF-DECKED BOATS 

The open-boat rigs before described require no 
booms, and are therefore the safest for the novice's 
first ventures on the water. A boom much increases 
the danger of sailing an open boat; even when the 
sheet is let go a sail bent on a boom holds a great 
deal of wind, and an accidental jibe in a strong 
breeze is likely to cause a capsize. 

But as soon as the amateur sailor has acquired 
some experience of seamanship, he will not be con- 
tent to use sails without booms on his boat. For a 
sail is rendered far more effective when its foot is 
extended on a boom. When the boat is running, a 
sail that has no boom forms into a bag, and does not 
present its full area to the wind; it can not be made 
to stand quite flat even on a wind, and though it jibes 
with safety, it is more liable to accidental jibes than 
a sail provided with a boom. 

Some sails— such as the standing-lug and the leg- 
of-mutton sail — can be used with or without booms; 
but with the rigs to be described — e.g. the balance- 
lug and the Una — the boom is indispensable. 

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sports and Games 

The Una Rig, though somewhat dangerous for a 
novice, has many great advantages. A Una, or cat- 
rigged boat, is certainly the handiest and quickest of 
boats for turning to windward in narrow waters. 
The Una boats built on the English coasts are of 




Fig. 47. — Una, or Cat-Boat. 

deeper draught than the orthodox cat-boats of this 
country, and are more comfortable in a choppy sea. 
A cat-boat has an almost flat floor. It has very 
great beam in proportion to its length, the former be- 
ing in some boats more than half the latter; its deck- 



Boating 

plan bears some resemblance to a flat-iron. It there- 
fore has a very light draught. A large cat-boat, in 
which the author sailed for some months on the coast 
of Florida, only drew three inches with her centre- 
board up. The American cat-boat is generally pro- 
vided with a wooden centre-board; in England an 
iron centre-board is preferred. The mast is stepped 
right in the bows, and the one sail, which has a gaff 
and boom, is shaped as in Fig. 47. The sail is held to 
the mast either by lacing or by mast-hoops. The sail 
is hoisted by a single halyard, which, as will be seen 
on referring to the figure, is made fast to the gaff, 
leads through a double block on the mast, then 
through a single block at the jaws of the gaff, then 
through the double block again, and lastly down the 
mast to the cleat on deck, to which the fall is fastened. 
The effect of hauling on the halyard is first to hoist 
the throat of the sail well up, and then to set up the 
peak. The boom should always be provided with a 
topping lift, for unless the boom is topped up it will 
fall into the water when the sail is lowered, and will 
dip into it when the boat is running before the wind. 
Mere skimming-dish though the cat-boat is, her ex- 
cessive beam gives her great stability, and she can be 
sailed without any ballast; but, as has already been 
explained, boats of this class, though stiff up to a 
particular point, capsize as soon as they have heeled 
over to a certain angle, and must be sailed with 
greater care than the deep-keeled boats. 



Sports and Games 

The Una, so well adapted for shallow waters, so 
quick in stays and admirably handy when tacking in 
narrow channels, would be the ideal boat for single- 
handed sailing were it not for some serious disad- 
vantages. Being so flat-floored she is uncomfortable 
in rough water, pounding heavily into the seas and 
straining herself. Moreover, the weight of her mast, 
situated, as it is, so far forward, tends to drive her 
bow into the seas and make her a wet boat on a wind ; 
while she is liable to plunge her nose under and go 
down by the head when running before a strong 
squall. The great sail and the length of the boom 
also make the boat roll when running before the 
wind ; she is then apt to steer very wildly, and is more 
liable to broach to than a boat of any other rig. It 
needs a skilled helmsman to steer a cat-boat safely 
when scudding before a squall in rough water, and a 
jibe at that juncture would, in all probability, capsize 
her. 

It will be observed that most of the above objec- 
tions to this rig apply only to its use on rough water. 
But, unsuitable though the rig may be for open-sea 
work, it is difficult to beat it on rivers, small lakes, 
and broads, where there is no room for a sea to rise. 
As for the other disadvantages of the rig, these can 
to a great extent be obviated by the following plan 
adopted by the author on the large cat-boat which he 
used to sail single-handed in Florida. The waters on 
which he was cruising were subject to violent squalls 

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Boating 

and to strong northerly winds, so it was necessary 
that he should be able to reduce his canvas quickly 
at times. In the first place, instead of the usual sin- 
gle halyards to which I have referred, he employed 
two halyards, as in a cutter, throat-halyard and peak- 
halyard, the former belaying at the foot of the mast, 
the latter passing through a block at the foot of the 
mast, and thence leading to a cleat aft within easy 
reach of the helmsman. He could thus, when a squall 
struck the boat, let go the peak halyards in a moment 
without leaving the helm, and so relieve the boat of 
the pressure of half the sail and the leverage of the 
great gafif. He might have made her still snugger 
by having a tricing-tackle fitted to the tack. Then, 
by hauling the tack up and lowering the peak, the 
sail would be "scandalized." The author also had a 
balance-reef in the sail (see the Fig.) — that is, a 
diagonal reef-band with reef-points, extending from 
the throat of the sail to the clew. 

In order to take in the balance-reef, the jaws of 
the gafif were lowered to the boom and there made 
fast. The reef-points were tied round the boom. 
When the reef was done, the peak was hoisted till the 
gafif lay along the mast. This left a snug triangular 
sail, under which the boat would turn to windward in 
a gale of wind, and, relieved of her top hamper, 
would run with safety, steering easily, before the 
heaviest squall. 

The Sliding-GuntER (Fig. 48) is the favorite 

^33 



sports and Games 



rig of the Bermudas. A boat thus rigged has a very 
short mast. The sail is of triangular shape, and the 
upper portion of its luff is laced to a long yard. This 
yard (see Fig. 49) slides up and down the mast on 
two irons. These irons are fixed to the yard, and are 
made to work easily on the mast. The halyards lead 
through a sheave-hole at the top of the mast, and the 




Fig. 48. — Sliding Gunter. 

end is fastened to the yard at the upper iron, or, bet- 
ter still, passes through an eye on the upper iron, and 
is made fast at the heel of the yard. The lower por- 
tion of the luff of the sail is held to the mast by a 
lacing. 

In reefing, the yard is lowered to the required 
distance; and when the sail is close reefed the end of 
the yard is brought down to the end of the boom. 

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Boating 



/ 



This rig, it will be seen, is particularly safe and 
snug. There is no top hamper and heavy gaff swing- 
ing about aloft, and the weight of the sail is in the 
body of the boat. To let the yard drop and close-reef 
the sail is a far simpler and quicker process 
than the reefing of a sail provided with a 
gaff. 

It is well to have a hinge in the lower 
iron, and to so fit the upper iron that it can 
be readily undamped. If the lacing of the 
lower part of the sail be then cast off, the 
yard can be lowered on deck, an advantage 
when at anchor or when it becomes neces- 
sary to row the boat against a strong wind. 

The sliding-gunter boat generally car- 
ries a jib and foresail or one large jib, and 
sometimes two masts, as in the illustration. 
Like all other rigs, it has some disadvan- 
tages, and of these the most serious is the 
liability of the sliding-irons to jam when 
the yard is being hoisted or lowered. The 
irons should therefore be covered with leather, which 
should always be kept well greased ; and a downhaul 
should be fitted to the end of the yard. It is also a 
good plan to have the hoops connected by a line on 
the foreside. This will keep the lower hinged iron in 
a horizontal position, and much diminish the chances 
of jamming. 

Perhaps the best rig of all for river sailing is the 

^35 



I 



sports and Games 

popular Balance-Lug^ so familiar to all those who 
know the upper Thames. But for rough water it is 
not a suitable rig. The extreme rigidity of the sail 
makes it strain the mast a good deal when the boat is 
in a seaway. There should be plenty of give and take 
in the gear of a boat that is to toss about on the salt 
water. 

Some boats, are rigged with two balance-lugs; 
others have jibs and mizzens; but for single-handed 
sailing the most comfortable is the centre-board 
dinghy with a single balance-lug. Such a boat can 
be rowed easily, and is yet big enough to carry sev- 
eral passengers. The author was acquainted with 
the owner of a boat of this class on the Thames ; and 
a description of her will serve to give an idea of the 
up-river balance-lug. 

This boat (see Fig. 50) is built of mahogany; her 
length is fifteen feet, and her beam five feet. She has 
an iron centre-board, and her ballast consists of four 
iron half-hundredweights, two on either side of the 
centre-board trunk. The lug is laced to a boom and 
yard, and though a large portion of the sail is before 
the mast, the sail has not to be dipped when the boat 
goes about, as is the case with the dipping-lug. It 
will be observed that the yard has a high peak, and 
that it is slung at about one-third of its length from 
its lower end. In many boats of this class the hal- 
yard is fastened to an iron mast-traveller, to which 
the yard is hooked; but one serious objection to this 

136 



Boating 

plan is that the sail can not be fully lowered into the 
boat until the yard is unhooked from the traveller, 
or unless the tack and sheet are let go. This is apt to 
put one in difficulties when one has to lower one's 
sail hurriedly in a squall ; so other methods have been 




Fig. 50. 

devised for keeping the yard close to the mast, while 
hoisting the sail by a halyard merely hooked to a 
thimble on the yard. 

One of the best-known of these methods is that 
adopted by the author on his boat. A line (see Fig. 

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Sports and Games 



51) is made fast to the yard some inches above the 
point at which the yard is slung; it then passes round 
the mast, and leads through an eye on the yard, a foot 
below the slings. When the sail is set, this line is 
hauled taut and belayed, thus keeping the yard close 
to the mast; when the sail lowers, the 
line slackens and gives the yard free 
play, so that it can be lowered into the 
boat. To facilitate the hoisting of the 
sail the halyard is fitted with a pur- 
chase. This will be understood by re- 
ferring to Fig. 50. It will be seen that 
at the end of the halyard a block is 
spliced. A rope is made fast on the 
mast thwart, and then leading through 
the block comes down again to form 
the hauling part. This is a single- 
whip purchase, and reduces the force 
to be employed by one-half. 
To set a balance-lug sail, the yard is first hoisted 
to the requisite height with the halyard, and then the 
tack is hauled down until the sail stands perfectly 
taut and flat. As considerable force has to be exerted 
in order to get the tack down, it is usual to have a 
tack purchase; when the ropes and sail stretch in a 
breeze, it is by a pull on the tack purchase, and not 
on the halyards, that the slack is taken in and the sail 
is made to stand flat again. In the author's boat a 
luff tackle is employed for the tack; the upper block 




Boating 

hooking on to a thimble fastened to the boom, while 
the lower block hooks on to an eye in the mast. A 
downhaul is fitted to the yard. 

The sheet is thus arranged: One end of it is fas- 
tened to one quarter of the boat; the other end leads 
through a block on the boom and then through an- 
other block fastened to the other quarter. 

The mast is supported by a wire stay on either 
side, and being stepped in what is known as a taber- 
nacle, works on a pivot in its heel, so that it can be 
quickly lowered when a bridge has to be passed un- 
der. A rope is spliced into an eye at the lower end 
of the forestay, passes through a block in the bows, 
and leads to a cleat aft; when this rope is cast off, the 
mast comes down without difficulty. 

If a balance-lug is properly cut and properly set, 
it stands flatter than any of the sails hitherto de- 
scribed. The position of the tack, made fast as it is 
at some distance abaft the fore end of the boom, 
makes it impossible for the end of the boom to lift in 
a breeze and for the sail to belly out, as is the case 
with the standing-lug and other sails. The boom 
can not lift without the yard lifting also, and the sail 
is always perfectly rigid. 

It must be allowed that the balance-lug is not an 
easy sail to handle in squally weather. One can not 
reef it without lowering it into the boat; one can not 
trice up the tack and lower the peak till the puff is 
over, as one can with the cat-boat; one can not brail 



sports and Games 

it up as one can the spritsail. But with all these dis- 
advantages it is, when skilfully handled, the best rig 
for the river. 

The Main and MIZZEN is a favorite rig for bal- 
ance-lug canoes and small boats, and it is no doubt a 
very handy one. Sometimes the mizzen-bumpkin is 
fastened on to the rudder head and so moves with it. 
The result is that in tacking, when the helm is put 
down, the mizzen is forced to windward and helps 
the boat round. This plan, which is adopted on 
English sailing-barges, will certainly prevent a 
clumsy boat from missing stays; but the mizzen be- 
comes a back sail every time the boat goes about, and 
must stop her way to some extent. Moreover, with 
the mizzen so arranged the helmsman dares not leave 
his tiller for a moment, for if he does so the wind 
pressing on the mizzen forces the rudder down, and 
the boat falls off before the wind (at the risk of cap- 
sizing if the breeze is strong), instead of luffing up 
into it, as all open sailing-boats should do when left 
to themselves. 

The main and mizzen rigged boat in Fig. 52 has 
wooden battens in her two lugs after the Chinese 
fashion. With the assistance of battens a sail attains 
the maximum of flatness. The battens do not ma- 
terially increase the weight of the sail, as they are 
made of light deal. They are passed through the 
reef bands of the sail. The dotted lines in the dia- 
gram indicate their position. This rig is peculiarly 

140 



Boating 

adapted for single-handed sailing; for a very large 
sail can be carried with safety if it be provided with 
battens, as reefing becomes an exceedingly simple 
and almost instantaneous process. To take in a reef, 
the halyard is slacked off a sufficient length ; and then 
a pull on a line, which is rove through thimbles fas- 
tened at both ends of the batten and boom, draw 




Fig. 52. — Main and Mizzen. 

boom and lower batten close together, and the reef 
is down, for the reef points need not be tied. The 
other reefs can be taken down in the same way. In 
squally weather reefs can be taken in and shaken out 
half a dozen times in a minute if necessary. Of 
course, if one has time to do so one will tie the reef- 
points, as the reef will then be snugger. 

The Sloop rig (Fig. 53) is well adapted for sea- 
work, but is not a handy rig for single-handed sail- 

141 



Sports and Games 

ing if the sailor be a novice; for the tending of the 
jib-sheets when tacking gives the helmsman more 
work than he may care for on a windy day. The 
sloop is rigged much like the cutter; its mainsail, like 
the cutter's, has a boom and gaff and is hoisted by two 
halyards, the throat and peak halyards; but whereas 
the cutter has a forestay fixed to the stem, carries two 
head-sails, a jib and foresail, and has a bowsprit that 
can be reefed and drawn inboard, the sloop has a 
fixed bowsprit or bumpkin, to the end of which the 
forestay is carried, and for head-sail has but one 
large jib. A topsail can be carried on a sloop as on a 
cutter, and a spinnaker can be used for running be- 
fore the wind. As the running and standing rigging 
of a sloop is practically the same as that of a cutter, it 
is unnecessary to describe it further. 

If the mainsail of a small boat — ^whether she be 
cat-boat, balance-lug, or sloop- — have a boom, it is 
usual to have the foot of the sail laced to the boom 
instead of having it secured at the two extremities 
only, as is often the case with the cutter's mainsail. 
A sail thus laced undoubtedly stands flatter, and as 
the lacing distributes the strain along the boom, that 
spar need not be so stout and heavy as it would have 
to be with a sail that was not laced. 

I have already pointed out that the different sorts 
of open sailing-boats I have described are often pro- 
vided with jibs and mizzens. For river and smooth 
water sailing the single-handed sailor had best con- 

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Boating 

fine himself to one sail ; it is difficult to see what ad- 
vantage he can gain by having more. Even if he de- 
cide to carry a mizzen as well as a mainsail in his 
boat, he should at any rate abjure the jib, always a 
troublesome sail to work in narrow waters. The boat 
with the single sail is not only the handiest, but it is 
the fastest; that is, given a certain area of canvas, that 




Fig. 53. — Sloop. 

canvas is far more effective if it be all put into one 
sail than if it be divided into several sails; and this 
is more especially the case when a boat is on a wind. 
It is only because huge sails are difficult to handle 
that seagoing vessels have so many sails — an objection 
that does not apply to small boats. 

But when a boat is intended for cruising on 

H3 



sports and Games 

choppy waters it is inadvisable to fit her with one big 
sail, which also involves a lofty mast. When tum- 
bling about in a seaway in a strong breeze the less top 
hamper the better, so that a smaller mainsail and a 
jib constitute the best rig. When running or sailing 
with the wind abeam, a boat is more easy to steer if 
she has a jib ; a boat with one sail is apt to miss stays 
if the sea is rough, but with the assistance of a jib her 
head can always be paid off. 

On some small craft, which, like the sloop, carry 
one head-sail only, the foot of the jib is laced to the 
boom, which makes the sail stand much flatter, more 
especially when the boat is sailing free and the sheet 
is slacked off. 

There is also a convenient plan by which the 
head-sail can be used as jib or spinnaker at will. The 
after end of the bowsprit is fitted to an iron gooseneck 
on the mast which allows it to work freely in all di- 
rections. The bowsprit does not pass through a gam- 
mon iron, neither is it otherwise fixed to the stem of 
the boat, but has attached to it a line or out-haul 
which is rove through an eyebolt in the stem, and is 
then led aft to a belaying cleat. When the sail is to 
serve as jib, this line is hauled taut and belayed ; this 
brings the spar amidships, and it acts as a bowsprit. 
When one is running before the wind the line is 
slacked off, and by means of one of the two guys at- 
tached to the end of it the spar is swung round, on 
the gooseneck as pivot, to the required side, until it 

144 



Boating 

is at right angles to the length of the boat; it then be- 
comes spinnaker-boom, and the sail serves as spin- 
naker, one of the jib-sheets now acting as spinnaker 




Fig. 54-- -Half-decked Boat. 

tack. On many small craft carrying a single head- 
sail the latter is conveniently reefed by an arrange- 
ment that reefs it along the forestay. 

As has already been pointed out, it is better that 
a small boat, intended for single-handed sailing and 

145 



sports and Games 

rowing on smooth water, should be entirely open; 
decking of any description is for her unnecessary, is 
much in the way, and adds to the weight. But with 
a slightly bigger craft, intended for cruising on more 
exposed waters, where one is likely to fall in with a 
lumpy sea at times, it is of advantage to have a half 
deck. A half-decked boat can be sailed with greater 
safety in rough water than if she were quite open ; a 
sudden heeling of the boat, that would at once fill and 
swamp an open boat, will only send the water flow- 
ing down the lee waterways, leaving the half-decked 
boat dry within. A half-decked boat (Fig. 54) is 
partly decked fore and aft, and has waterways on 
either side. The well is surrounded by a low coam- 
ing to keep the water out. In the bigger half-decked 
boats the deck forward covers a cuddy or small cabin 
which affords comfortable sleeping quarters, while 
spacious lockers, in which sails, stores, and so forth 
can be stowed away, surround the sides of the well 
and occupy the space under the after-deck. 



SEAMANSHIP 

Having described the various portions of the rig- 
ging of a small fore-and-aft craft, I will now explain 
how the principal manoeuvres connected with the 
sailing of the boat are executed. Practice alone will 
enable the amateur sailor to promptly decide what 
course of action he should take in any set of condi- 

146 



Boating 

tions that may arise, and to perform the required 
operations smartly and without hesitation. For that 
"he who hesitates is lost" is an adage that has but too 
often been proved true at sea. The sailor must be 
able to put his hands upon any rope on board, in a 
moment, in the darkest night; and to reef, tie, or un- 
tie any knot, as well with his eyes shut as open. But 
the novice must not be discouraged if he makes mis- 
takes at first. 

Before explaining how the different manoeuvres 
are performed on a yacht, I will describe how the 
sails are hoisted, lowered, and reefed. 

The Mainsail, when stowed in harbor, is rolled 
up neatly, the middle of the leach having been first 
hauled forward and laid along the boom. When the 
sail is furled, its folds are tied together by short 
lengths of rope, or canvas strips, called tyers or gas- 
kets. The sail is then covered with a coat of painted 
canvas, which is laced underneath the boom ; but the 
coat should never be put on unless the sail is thor- 
oughly dry, else mildew will soon make its appear- 
ance. The boom when the sail is furled rests on a 
wooden crutch. 

To set the mainsail. Remove the sail-coat; hook 
on the peak halyards; slack ofif the main-sheet, so as 
to allow the boom to be topped up a few feet with the 
topping-lift — if there are two topping-lifts, haul on 
the weather one; then get the main-sheet taut again, 
and belay it ; cast off the tyers. The sail is now ready 

147 



sports and Games 

for hoisting. To get it up, haul on both throat and 
peak halyards until the throat is as high as it will go 
and the luff of the sail is drawn taut ; but while doing 
this do not let the peak of the sail get higher than the 
throat, for if the peak be hoisted too fast the throat 
will travel up the mast with difficulty, and can not 
be got taut. Take care also that the gaff passes be- 
tween the two topping-lifts, or on the right side of the 
single topping-lift, if there be but one topping-lift, as 
is usual on small cutters. The throat being well up, 
belay the throat halyards; then haul away on the 
peak halyards until the peak is well up — that is, until 
the sail begins to wrinkle at the throat. 

In order to get the sail to stand as flat as possible, 
the tack should be made fast before hoisting. 

If the clew of the sail has not been hauled out taut 
along the boom before the sail is hoisted, this should 
be done before the peak is right up, and before the 
tack is fast. 

When the sail is up, stow away in a locker, or 
other place set apart for the purpose, the boom- 
crutch, mainsail-coat, and tyers ; for nothing is more 
unseamanlike than to leave lying about on deck gear 
which is not required for immediate use. "Where 
the dickens have those other two tyers got to?" "I 
don't know, Ted. They must have been washed over- 
board when we shipped that sea," is the sort of con- 
versation, over the stowing of a sail after a cruise, that 
betokens a slovenly crew. 

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Boating 

Having belayed the halyards, coil them neatly, 
"with the sun," and then capsize them — that is, turn 
the coils over, so that the last coil is on the top and 
the halyard end is underneath. Unless this is done, 
the halyards, if let go in a hurry, are likely to twist 




Fig. 55- 



round some of the coils and carry them up the mast, 
to jam the block and prevent the sail from lowering 
more than half-way down. 

To reef a mainsail. One reef-pennant, or reef- 
earring, at least, should always be kept rove, in readi- 
ness for use. A reef-pennant is a rope which passes 
through a comb-cleat (see Fig. 55) at the end of the 

149 

Vol. 14—6 



Sports and Games 

boom, through the reef-cringle on the sail, and down 
through a comb-cleat on the opposite side of the 
boom. The comb-cleat has three reef-holes or more — 
one for each reef-pennant. At the end of the reef- 
pennant is a knot which prevents it slipping through 
the hole in the comb-cleat. 

To take a reef down in the mainsail, top up the 
boom a bit, and haul it well inboard with the sheet; 
slack away the throat and peak halyards to allow of 
the reef-cringle being brought down to the boom. 
When the cringle has been got well down with the 
earring, secure the earring to the boom with a reef- 
pennant bend, the method of forming which is shown 
in the figure. Hook the tack on the reef-cringle at 
the luf¥ of the sail, bowse it down and secure it. Roll 
up the foot of the sail tightly, and tie the reef-points 
as taut as possible; then haul on the halyards till the 
sail is once more properly set. 

To scandalize a mainsail. So as to reduce the 
area of canvas rapidly in a squall, or as a precaution 
when about to jibe in a strong wind, the mainsail can 
be scandalized. This is done by tricing up the tack 
of the sail with the tricing line and lowering the peak. 

To set a Jib. In the first place, if they are slack, 
the bobstay, the bowsprit-shrouds, and the topmast- 
stay must be hauled taut in succession. Then lay the 
jib on the deck forward, with its tack turned to the 
bows. Hook the tack of the sail on the traveller and 
the halyards to the head-cringle of the sail, not with- 

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Boating 

out looking aloft first to see that there are no turns 
in the halyards. Pass the jib-sheets through the comb- 
cleats or the leading blocks, and tie an overhand knot 
at the end of each sheet, to prevent its running out 
through its fair-lead when the jib is flapping about. 
Fasten the jib-sheets on to the clew of the sail, and if 
clip-hooks are employed for this purpose mouse them 
with twine. 

It is usual, when setting a big jib, to first hoist 
the head of the sail about half-way up with the hal- 
yards, then to haul the tack out on the bowsprit, and 
lastly to hoist the halyards till the sail is right up; 
but with a small sail it is better to haul the tack out 
and belay the outhaul fall before pulling on the hal- 
yards; for, unless it is blowing hard, it is easy so to 
handle the sail as to prevent it falling into the water. 
It is sometimes convenient to hoist a jib without re- 
moving the stops — short yarns with which it is tied 
when rolled up. When the sail is hoisted, a pull on 
the sheets breaks the yarns and the sail falls out free. 

If the jib is being hoisted when the vessel is under 
way, take the halyards to the lee-side of the foresail 
before hooking them on to the sail. 

To take in a jib, slack up the out-haul and pull 
the sail inboard, "muzzling" it — that is, gathering it 
with your arms as it comes in. Then let go the hal- 
yards and pull the sail down. If two hands can be 
spared for the work, one of them should commence 
to lower the halyards as the sail is coming in along 



Sports and Games 

the bowsprit. It requires an experienced hand to 
take in a jib smartly in a strong breeze when the boat 
is tumbling about; and the novice, when undertaking 
this task single-handed, must be careful not to let the 
jib blow out of his hands into the water, to tow under 
the keel. 

When the jib is in, unhook the traveller, the sheets, 
and halyards, and make these all fast in their respec- 
tive places. 

Even on a cutter of considerable tonnage one hand 
suffices to hoist or lower the FORESAIL. To hoist a 
foresail, hook the sheets and halyards on the sail, and 
belay one or both sheets according to circumstances. 
Then hoist the sail with the halyards and get down 
the tack — if there is a tack tackle. 

To reef a foresail it is best to lower tHe sail on 
deck. Roll up the foot of the sail ; tie up the reef- 
point. Hook the tack and sheets to the reef-cringles, 
and then haul the sail up again with the halyards. 

To set a Gaff-topsail. Lay the sail on deck and 
lace its head to the yard. Bend the sheet to the clew 
with a gafif-topsail sheet-bend (see Fig. 31). Bend 
on the halyards with a topsail halyard-bend (see Fig. 
30) . Hoist on the halyards, while keeping some 
strain on the tack to steady the sail and guide it; and 
haul in the slackof the sheet as the sail goes up. When 
the yard is chock-a-block belay the halyards, get the 
tack down with its tackle and belay it, and lastly, 
haul in the sheet. 



Boating 

To set a JiB-HEADED Topsail, a hand is sent aloft 
who laces the luff of the sail to the topmast while the 
sail is being hoisted. 

The method of setting a jib-headed topsail on a 
pole mast has already been explained. 

Topsails of any sort should be hoisted and lowered 
on the weather-side of the mainsail. If hoisted or 
lowered on the lee-side they are apt to blow away. 
Topsails are passed up between the mainsail and the 
topping-lift, and care must be taken when bending 
the sheets to lead them inside the topping-lift. 

In order to set a SPINNAKER, the spinnaker-boom 
is first lowered to the required side of the vessel by 
slacking up the spinnaker topping-lift. At the same 
time the fore and the after guys are led to the two 
extremities of the vessel, and with these the boom is 
guided until it is "squared" — that is, extended over- 
board at right angles to the keel. The guys are then 
belayed. The halyards, out-haul, and sheets are bent 
on to the sail, and the sheet is belayed. The sail is 
hoisted with halyards, and then the tack is hauled out 
to the boom end with the out-haul. If there be much 
wind it may be found necessary to slack up the sheet 
a bit until the out-haul has been belayed. 

To take in a spinnaker, let go the out-haul first 
and drag the sail inboard. Then let go the halyards 
and haul the head of the sail down on deck. 

To GET UNDER WAY is not SO simple a matter as 
might be supposed, and is often, indeed, a difficult 

^53 



sports and Games 

and delicate business that taxes the skill even of the 
experienced sailor. A slight error of judgment when 
weighing anchor or slipping from one's moorings in 
a crowded anchorage may result in one's craft drift- 
ing across another vessel's stem, before she can be got 
under control ; and if the tide be running strong, thus 
to collide with an anchored vessel is likely to cause 
the sinking of one's own. 

Before proceeding to get under way, get whatever 
sails you intend to use ready for hoisting; cast off 
their tyers and stops, leaving, perhaps, one tyer round 
the "bunt" or middle of the mainsail to keep it from 
blowing loose ; bend on halyards and sheets, top the 
main boom, and see that the runners, etc., are belayed 
in their right places. 

The usual method of getting under way with a 
cutter when she is riding head to wind and tide, the 
wind being moderate, is as follows: — Heave short, 
that is, get up the chain until it is nearly straight up 
and down, and the yacht is almost over her anchor. 
Hoist the mainsail. Trip the anchor smartly, and 
just as it is leaving the ground hoist the jib and fore- 
sail ; at the same time cant the vessel over on the re- 
quired tack by putting the helm to port or starboard, 
as the case may be, for the tide passing under an an- 
chored vessel gives her steerage way, which she pre- 
serves for a short time after the anchor is a-weigh. 
To cant the vessel the quicker, keep the foresail to 
windward by hoisting it with its weather-sheet be- 

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Boating 

layed (if necessary, keep the jib also to windward), 
and ease off the main-sheet. As soon as the vessel 
has paid off sufficiently and her mainsail is filling, let 
the head-sails draw. If you wish to sail close-hauled, 
do not flatten in your main-sheet until you have gath- 
ered good steerage way. If you wish to run before 
the wind, ease the main-sheet well off, and you may 
keep the peak lowered until the vessel's head is well 
round. 

It of course requires two hands to get a vessel un- 
der way in the manner described above. But on a 
small cutter the operation can be performed single- 
handed. Hoist jib and mainsail before heaving upon 
the cable, leaving the jib-sheets flowing, but not so 
loosely that they can get entangled or get foul of the 
rigging. Heave on the cable ; when it is straight up 
and down flatten in the weather jib-sheet and lash 
the helm to windward with a line. Run forward 
and get the anchor a-trip and on deck as quickly as 
you are able. Then let draw the jib-sheets, cast off 
the tiller-line, and sail away. You can get your fore- 
sail up as soon as you are clear of other vessels. 

If your vessel is riding to tide and wind, and it is 
blowing hard, hoist no canvas before heaving on the 
cable, for the pressure of the wind upon the sails 
would cause the anchor to drag. Just as the anchor 
is leaving the ground put the helm over to cant the 
vessel, and hoist the foresail and jib smartly. Hoist 
the mainsail when the vessel is under way, 



sports and Games 

If the tide and wind be in opposite directions, and 
the vessel is riding to the tide with the wind astern, 
set jb, or jib and foresail, just as the anchor is leav- 
ing the ground; you will then be running before the 
wind; and if you wish to luff quickly have the main- 
sail up as smartly as you can. 

If the wind and tide be in opposite directions, and 
the wind be so strong that it masters the tide, the ves- 
sel riding to the wind with the tide coming up astern, 
the effect of the rudder will be reversed, so that to 
cant the vessel's head to port the helm must be put to 
port, instead of to starboard, as would be the case if 
the vessel had headway. 

It sometimes happens, when one is anchored in a 
crowded narrow place with a strong tide running 
and but a light breeze blowing, that one can not get 
under way in the ordinary manner without running 
a great risk of drifting foul of vessels anchored close 
astern. The following method (which is called 
dredging) can then be employed with advantage, 
more especially if the bottom be of mud. The cable 
is hove short. One hand goes forward and keeps the 
vessel dragging slowly astern by taking chain in until 
the anchor is almost off the ground, while he stands 
by ready to give her back a little chain should she be- 
gin to drag too fast. The tide, running under the 
vessel at a faster rate than she is dragging, gives steer- 
age way and enables the helmsman to steer his craft 
so as to avoid the anchored vessels, as he drifts down- 

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Boating 

stream stern on. As soon as the vessel gets into more 
open water, the anchor is got up and the sails are 
hoisted. 

A similar plan is that employed by the Norfolk 
wherrymen when dropping down the narrow rapid 
river at Yarmouth with their sails furled. They trail 
a long chain (having no anchor on it) from their 
bows, over the muddy bottom, thus retarding their 
progress and providing the steerage way needed to 
keep them clear of obstacles and shoot the bridges. 

A vessel moored to a buoy is easier to get under 
way than one lying at anchor, as she is under more 
complete control, and there is no dragging of the an- 
chor to be feared. One can wait till she is canted in 
the right direction before slipping from the moor- 
ings ; and by bringing the mooring-rope to one side or 
other of the vessel, one can ensure her casting off on 
the required tack. Thus, if one wishes to cast off on 
the port tack, the mooring-rope is brought to the port- 
side and is made fast close to the main rigging; this 
turns the vessel's head to starboard. The sails are 
then hoisted; it takes a second to slip the moorings, 
and away the vessel shoots with all her sails full. 

Until the anchor is well out of the water do not 
get much way on the vessel, but heave to, if you have 
plenty of sea-room; for otherwise the anchor may be 
driven back by the pressure of the water, and get foul 
of the stem or bobstay. 

Having got the vessel under way, I will now de- 

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scribe some of the principal manoeuvres which have 
to be executed in the course of a sail. We will sup- 
pose that all plain canvas has been set, and that the 
vessel is sailing full and bye — that is, as near the wind 
as she can go, while yet keeping her sails full. Noth- 
ing is gained by jamming a boat too close to the wind, 
with her sails all on the shake; for though she may 
be pointing more directly toward her destination, her 
speed will be greatly diminished, especially if there is 
any sea on. 

To sail a vessel on a wind so as to get the most out 
of her is an art not to be acquired without much pa- 
tient practice and observation. At first, the tyro will 
find it a wearisome business to take his trick at the 
tiller when a vessel is close-hauled. He will ever be 
anxiously on the watch lest he bear away or lufif up 
too much ; and yet, despite all his care, he will be dis- 
gusted to find that at one moment all his sails are flap- 
ping and the vessel loses her way, and that at the next 
moment he has brought the wind almost abeam and 
is sailing away to leeward. He has a tendency to 
push his helm hard up and hard down alternately, 
thus correcting one error with such violence that he 
at once falls into the opposite error. 

Steering becomes in time a second instinct, and 
can not be taught in books; but the following hints 
may prove useful to the novice. When steering, 
stand or sit on the weather-side of the deck. The an- 
gle at which the burgee at the masthead is blowing 

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out will show you whether you are too much off the 
wind when sailing close-hauled. If you are sailing 
too near the wind the shaking of the sail will warn 
you. When you see the luff of the jib and mainsail 
just lifting slightly, you are sailing as near the wind 
as you should be. The novice therefore, when steer- 
ing full and bye, should always have his eyes on the 
sails and the burgee. But when practice has made 
him an experienced helmsman he will need no such 
guides ; the feel of the tiller will then tell him whether 
he is steering rightly, and with a sensitive hand he 
will hold the helm at exactly the right angle to keep 
her on her course, moving it but very slightly — al- 
most imperceptibly — now and again, instead of ever 
passing it backward and forward from hard up to 
hard down, as he used to do in the early days of his 
novitiate. 

The best of all guides is the feel of the wind on 
one's face, which indicates whether one is steering 
full and bye or yawing about. It is astonishing 
with what nicety a sailor can distinguish the direction 
of even a very light wind in this way. On a dark 
night when he is steering full and bye, and not by 
compass, this is the only possible guide to the helms- 
man; so, too, if the vessel is running before the wind, 
he can feel by the chill on his neck or ear if he is 
sailing by the lee or luffing up. 

When sailing full and bye it is important that the 
sails should be properly trimmed; they should not be 

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sheeted so flat that the vessel becomes sluggish, and 
they must all be sheeted as nearly as possible at the 
right angle, so that one sail will not lift long before 
the other when the vessel comes up into the wind. It 
is a common fault to flatten in the jib-sheet too much, 
by which the sail's efifect is wasted, and it tends more 
to drive the vessel to leeward than to propel her. If 
the mainsail is seen to lift before the jib, slacken up 
the jib-sheet a bit. 

TO TACK 

When the wind is so much ahead that one can not 
steer directly for one's destination, even when close- 
hauled, the vessel has to be tacked. The theory of 
tacking has been dealt with previously; the practice 
will now be explained. 

If two or more hands are available for the opera- 
tion, the following is the procedure: — The man at 
the helm selects his opportunity, and if it be heavy 
weather he awaits a smooth ; for a vessel is liable to 
miss stays if struck by a sea before she has come up 
into the wind; then, having decided to put the vessel 
about, he sings out "ready about," when the hands 
will stand by ready to handle the sheet. If necessary, 
he should keep the vessel a point or so more off the 
wind for a short time before he gives the next order, 
so as to get plenty of way on her. The next order 
will be "helm's a-lee," and as he gives it he puts the 
tiller down to leeward gently, and only about half- 

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Boating 

way over, thus allowing the vessel to shoot well ahead 
while in stays. When she is in the wind's eye he 
gives her some more helm to help her pay off on the 
other tack. 

In the meanwhile, the hands at the sheets have 
been doing their duty. As the vessel comes up into 
the wind they slack up the jib and fore-sheets; and 
when the vessel has passed the head-to-wind position, 
they haul the sheets in on the other side, which now 
becomes the lee-side; but they must not do this too 
soon, else the head sails will act as back sails, prevent 
the vessel from paying off, and cause her to miss stays. 
The jib-sheet, for example, should not be hauled over 
until the jib has blown clear of the fore-stay; but it 
should then be got in and belayed very smartly, before 
the vessel is filling on the other tack, else the strain 
will be so great that it will be difficult to get it in at 
all. If the vessel is sluggish in stays, or if there be 
a lumpy sea, the fore-sheet should not be let go with 
the jib-sheet, but it should be left belayed until the 
vessel fills on the other tack. The foresail, thus taken 
aback, helps the vessel's head to pay off; but the ves- 
sel's way is of course stopped to some extent by this, 
and the foresail must not be kept to windward a mo- 
ment longer than is necessary. In order to go about 
smartly it is well to flatten in the main-sheet until the 
vessel is in the wind's eye, and then to slack it off 
again as her head pays off on the other tack. 

If one is sailing single-handed, the mainsail must 

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sports and Games 

be left to take care of itself during the process of tack- 
ing; the jib must be allowed to pass over and its sheet 
must be belayed on the new tack before the fore-sheets 
are touched. 

If, in consequence of the helm having been put 
down too fast, or the head-sheets having been hauled 
in too soon, the vessel misses stays, she is left "in 
irons," that is, she lies helplessly head to wind, refus- 
ing to fill on either tack, her sails all shaking, her 
headway lost, and she soon begins to gather stern- 
way. In order to get her under way again (say, on 
the port tack) haul the head-sheets to windward, that 
is, to the port-side, and slack off the main-sheet. This 
will cause her head to pay off to starboard, then the 
sails can be trimmed and she will go ahead again. 
So long as she has stern-way, remember that the ac- 
tion of the rudder is reversed, that is, the tiller must 
be put over to starboard in order to pay the vessel's 
head off to starboard. 

TO RUN BEFORE THE WIND 
When a vessel is running before the wind all 
sheets are eased off, the main-sheet more so than the 
others, so that the mainsail is almost squared to the 
wind. The runners, preventer backstays, and boom 
topping-lifts are belayed on the weather-side and 
slacked off on the lee-side. 

When running, do not steer a vessel so that she is 
"by the lee," unless it be necessary to do so in order 

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Boating 

to avoid collision with another vessel, or for some 
other such good reason. A vessel is by the lee when 
she bears away so much that the wind comes from 
the quarter over which the boom is squared. She is 
then very near the point which would bring the wind 
to the back of the sails and cause a jibe. A jibe thus 
brought about is always more or less dangerous, and 
may even capsize a vessel. Serious damage is likely 
to attend an accidental jibe if it is blowing hard; the 
boom swinging over with great violence from one 
quarter to the other will carry all before it on its way 
— runners, preventer backstays, and topmast; and it 
will probably be sprung by the sudden jerk with 
which it is brought up by the main-sheet. The head- 
sails always give timely warning that one is sailing 
by the lee; for the wind gets behind them and bellies 
them out from the other side before the mainsail is 
in any danger of jibing. 

JIBING 
When it becomes necessary to jibe a vessel, proper 
precautions have to be taken. Before preparing for 
a jibe, steer so that the wind is not quite aft, but on 
the quarter opposite to that over which the boom is 
squared. Haul in on the main-sheet till the boom is 
half-way in. Then put the helm slowlyup to bring the 
vessel round, and continue hauling on the main-sheet 
till the boom is amidships. Before the vessel is by the 
lee, slack ofif the weather-runners (and weather-pre- 

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venting back-stays, if these be standing) and set taut 
the lee-runners, which will become the weather-run- 
ners when the jibe has been effected. As the wind 
strikes the mainsail on the opposite side, slack off the 
main-sheet so as to break the jerk and allow the boom 
to pass over easily to the other quarter. A vessel is 
apt to run up into the wind as she jibes, so the helm 
must be put up to meet her. Then sheet the headsails 
on what has now become the lee side. 

If the wind is strong it is well to scandalize the 
mainsail — trice up the main tack and lower the peak 
— before jibing. 

When running before a heavy sea a vessel is apt 
to yaw about a good deal, and therefore exceptional 
care must be taken to avoid an accidental jibe. The 
prudent plan under these circumstances is not to steer 
dead before the wind, but to sail for some distance 
with the wind on one quarter, and then to jibe and 
sail with the wind on the other quarter. 

A vessel is said to be HOVE-TO when she is made 
to remain stationary, by getting some of her head sails 
aback. To heave a cutter to, luff her up till she is 
close-hauled, haul the fore-sheet to windward, and 
haul on the jib-sheet until the corner of the jib is over 
the forestay. If the main-sheet is now trimmed prop- 
erly — experiment will quickly show how much it 
should be flattened in — the headsails and the main- 
sail will balance each other, the former causing the 
vessel's head to pay off, the latter driving her up into 

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the wind, with the result that the vessel will remain 
floating head to wind, making no headway, and the 
tiller can be lashed amidships. 

When sailing single-handed, provided you have 
sufficient sea room, heave the vessel to before under- 
taking to reef, shift jibs, etc. You can then leave the 
tiller and do the work at your leisure, while the ves- 
sel takes care of herself. 

When hove-to under snug canvas, even a small 
fore-and-after will often ride quite comfortably and 
safely through very heavy weather. To ride out a 
gale a cutter is generally hove-to under trysail and 
storm-jib, the foresail being stowed. 

To get under way when hove-to, hoist the foresail 
if it is down, slack up the main-sheet, and when the 
vessel has paid well ofif trim the sheets. 

When shifting sails and reefing, care must be 
taken to preserve the balance between the head and 
the after-sails, so that the vessel remains in good sail- 
ing trim, having a decided tendency to come up into 
the wind, while yet not carrying excessive weather 
helm. Thus if a large jib be changed for a small 
one, and the foresail be reefed, while the mainsail 
is left standing, the vessel will gripe and the tiller 
will have to be put hard down to keep her ofif the 
wind, the rudder being at such an angle as to seri- 
ously retard the vessel's speed. On the other hand, 
if the mainsail be reefed while the whole foresail 
and the big jib are left on her, the vessel will prob- 

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ably carry a lee helm, which, as has already been ex- 
plained, no yacht should under any circumstances be 
allowed to do; among other reasons, because, when 
in that dangerous trim, she will be pinned down and 
possibly be capsized by a squall instead of luffing up 
into it. 

A whole mainsail and a whole foresail can be 
carried after the first jib has been exchanged for 
the second, without materially increasing a vessel's 
weather-helm; but on most yachts whenever the fore- 
sail is reefed the mainsail should be reefed also. Thus 
in a fresh breeze a cutter will generally be seen sail- 
ing under single-reefed mainsail, single-reefed fore- 
sail, and third jib. In a heavy gale it is usual to stow 
the foresail, and to sail under trysail and storm-jib. 

When setting a smaller jib reef the bowsprit, for 
a small jib hauled half-way along a bowsprit strains 
the spar, which at that point is not supported by the 
shrouds and bobstay; moreover a vessel is greatly re- 
lieved by getting the weight of the bowsprit more 
inboard. 

That a vessel should be in good trim is of especial 
importance when she is beating to windward against 
a heavy sea. It is essential then that her canvas 
should not only be well-balanced, but that it should 
be sufficiently reduced, so that she can be sailed 
ramping full, and be ever kept well under control; 
whereas if too much sail is carried she will have to 
be luffed up into every strong pufif, when the seas will 

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quickly deaden her way, and she will plunge and 
tumble about uneasily in the hollows between the 
waves, and probably get in irons. When an excep- 
tionally big sea is seen rolling up, the vessel must be 
luffed up into it, so as to meet it end on, but as soon 
as it has passed one must bear away again and fill the 
sails. Unless one has been sailing full and keeping 
good way on her, one can not perform this manoeuvre 
properly, and with an over-canvased craft that has 
to be luffed up to puffs of wind as well as to seas, one 
will progress but slowly, and will make very bad 
weather of it. 

When running before a heavy sea, the vessel, espe- 
cially if she be a short beamy one, will exhibit a tend- 
ency to yav/ about, and will require most careful 
steering. Now is the occasion for the helmsman to 
show his skill. With the novice at the helm the ves- 
sel will steer in the wildest fashion, now shooting up 
into the wind, now bearing right away till there is 
danger of a jibe, and the tiller will be kept ever hard 
at it travelling backward and forward from one quar- 
ter to the other. But the experienced man will keep 
his helm steady, and the vessel's yawing will be slight; 
for the art of steering does not consist of violently 
forcing the tiller up and down to correct a vessel's 
deviation from her course after it has occurred, but 
in anticipating her movements with a gentle pressure 
of the tiller before she begins to fall off or come up. 
The helmsman feels that he is between Scylla and 

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Carybdis when running before a heavy sea, and he 
needs all his nerve. For on the one hand he has to 
avoid an accidental jibe, and on the other hand, when- 
ever a dangerously big and steep sea rolls up, he must 
so steer that the vessel is dead before it; for if it 
strikes her on the weather quarter it may cause her 
to broach to, that is, fly up into the wind till she is 
broadside on to the sea, a most dangerous position, 
in which she is in great risk of being swamped or 
rolled over by the next big wave. 

Always carry a jib when running before the wind, 
it will help to pay the vessel off if she attempts to 
broach to. One can carry more canvas when before 
the wind than when sailing close-hauled: but if too 
much sail is carried the vessel will roll heavily. Do 
not crack on canvas under the impression that it will 
enable you to run away from the following seas and 
so avoid the risk of being pooped. No vessel can 
run as fast as that. 

A cruising yacht should carry a storm squaresail 
made to hoist under the forestay, so as to be high 
enough to catch the wind when the vessel is in the 
trough of the sea. Under such a sail a yacht will 
run before a heavy sea wath much diminished chance 
of broaching to or jibing. A cutter running before 
a strong wind will not roll nearly so heavily and can 
be steered with far greater ease if a small spinnaker 
be set on the other side to balance the mainsail. I 
have often set such a spinnaker by the side of a reefed 

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Boating 

mainsail when cruising in the South Atlantic, with 
great advantage: and whenever I had to run before 
a strong wind on my little three-tonner during her 
cruise on the almost always choppy Baltic I invari- 
ably had my mainsail boomed out on one side and a 
small boat's standing-lug on the other side. As soon 
as the latter sail was hoisted there was a remarkable 
gain both in speed and comfort. 

If one runs too long before a gale the sea may get 
so high that it becomes exceedingly dangerous, if not 
impossible, to bring the vessel up in the wind and 
heave her to. Always heave-to in good time, if you 
have plenty of sea room and no port to run for. Wait 
for the smooth, which generally follows two or three 
exceptionally high waves, before bringing the vessel 
to: for the perilous moment will be when she is be- 
ing brought broadside on to the sea. It is astonish- 
ing with what safety and comfort a fore-and-after 
will ride out a gale, rising easily to every steep wave, 
and taking but little water on board. Run too long 
and you will have an anxious time of it. 

When sailing with the wind abeam, the sheets are 
eased off so that the sails just fill and draw well, with- 
out shaking at the luff. If a steep sea rolls up, luff 
up to it a bit, so as to shoulder it — that is, take it on 
the weather bow and not broadside on. Do not 
carry too much canvas when sailing with the wind 
abeam. 

If a really heavy sea is running do not venture to 

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sail with the wind abeam; sail close-hauled or run 
for it according to circumstances — or do each in turn 
if by that course you can best reach your destination. 

If sailing with the sea on the quarter, bear away 
before the more dangerous seas, so as not to run the 
risk of broaching-to. 

To Come to an Anchorage, or to Pick up 
Moorings in a crowded roadstead is a matter requir- 
ing great skill and judgment; and the novice will 
probably find this the most difficult to master of all 
the manoeuvres he has to execute while sailing his 
yacht. 

Before getting to your anchorage haul up from be- 
low and range on deck a length of cable equal to, or 
slightly greater than, the depth of the water in which 
you intend to let go your anchor. Steer to windward 
of the spot where you wish to bring up. When 
near it lower the head sails, flatten in the main sheet, 
and bring the vessel up into the wind's eye, sharply, 
or with a long sweep, according to the circumstances. 
When she has lost all her way and begins to drop 
astern, let go the anchor. The length of the sweep 
one should make when coming up depends on the set 
and strength of the tide, the qualities of the vessel (a 
deep boat will shoot much further than a shallow one 
before losing her way), and so forth; and practice 
only can enable the novice to calculate with nicety 
what should be done. If wind and tide are in the 
same direction one must of course lower the headsails 

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and luff up into the wind sooner than if the wind and 
tide are opposed. 

If the wind and tide are opposed, the easiest and 
safest method of coming to one's anchorage is to run 
dead before the wind up to it instead of luffing. Re- 
duce the canvas gradually according to the strength 
of the wind, until the vessel remains stationary over 
the right spot, the wind and tide just counteracting 
each other; then let go. To give an example of this 
manoeuvre, let us suppose that the mainsail has been 
lowered and that the vessel is still making good way 
under foresail and jib. The jib is next lowered, when 
the vessel is found to be progressing very slowly. As 
soon as she has reached her anchorage the foresail is 
hauled down, the tide at once gets the mastery and 
brings the vessel to a standstill, and she begins to go 
astern; then the anchor is let go. 

If, instead of coming to an anchor, moorings have 
to be picked up, still greater accuracy must be em- 
ployed in making one's calculations and executing 
the manoeuvre, else the moorings may be missed alto- 
gether. A hand must be stationed in the bows with 
a boathook, ready to hook up the mooring-buoy as 
soon as he can reach it, and to belay the mooring rope 
smartly. To miss one's moorings by shooting past 
them or short of them in a crowded anchorage may 
place one in an awkward position ; for the vessel will 
then drift helplessly away, and is likely to fall foul 
of neighboring craft before she can be got under con- 

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trol. If you fail to pick up your moorings after luff- 
ing up to them under the mainsail, hoist the foresail 
smartly and ease off the main-sheet so as to get the 
vessel under control as quickly as possible. But when 
tide meets wind, moorings can be picked up, without 
any risk, in the manner described above, by running 
up to them instead of luffing. The buoy is then easily 
secured; and even if the hand with the boathook bun- 
gle the business, the foresail can be hoisted in a mo- 
ment and the vessel gathers way again. When ap- 
proaching one's moorings it is prudent to have a 
kedge or small anchor ready to let go in case of ac- 
cidents. 

When anchoring, do not pay chain out too fast, 
as it will fall on the top of the anchor, and possibly 
take a turn round the fluke, in which case the anchor 
will draw out of the ground as soon as a strain is put 
upon it. Having let the chain which has been ranged 
on deck run out, wait till the vessel goes astern and 
the chain tautens before giving her more; then do so 
gradually until she has enough to hold her — about 
three times the depth of the water suffices as a rule; 
but more will be required if the holding ground is 
bad or if it is blowing hard. 

Having come to an anchor or picked up your 
moorings, lower the main-boom on its crutch and 
stow the sails neatly. Put their coats on the mainsail 
and foresail, if these sails are dry; if they are damp 
furl them loosely and hoist and dry them as soon as 

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you have a chance. On no account put the sail coats 
on wet sails, as to do this will infallibly produce mil- 
dew. Slack off the clew of the mainsail before stow- 
ing it, for by keeping the clew constantly hauled out 
taut along the boom (a common fault), you will pull 
the foot of the sail all out of shape. Belay all hal- 
yards, sheets, backstays, etc., neatly, but not too taut if 
they are dry; remember that a shower of rain will 
cause all your hemp rope to shrink considerably, and 
then an over-taut preventer backstay, for example, 
may put such a strain upon the topmast as to break 
it. Slack up the bobstay tackle and haul the bob- 
stay up to the stem, so that it may be clear of the 
chain. 

If it be blowing hard, or the holding ground be 
bad, or if for some other reason it is uncertain 
whether your single anchor will hold the vessel. 
Moor her, that is, ride to two anchors placed at some 
distance apart, so that the two cables form an angle. 
To moor, let go on one anchor and veer out twice as 
much cable as you intend to ride by. When the cable 
is taut let go the second anchor. Heave in on the first 
cable and veer out the second until the same length 
of cable is out on both anchors. It is sometimes more 
convenient to take the second anchor out in a boat to 
the place where it has to be let go. 

To unmoor, veer out chain to one anchor while 
getting the other anchor up. Then weigh the second 
anchor. 

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sports and Games 

When lying at anchor in windless weather, the 
vessel is apt to float right over her anchor at slack 
water, just before the turn of the tide. The cable is 
then likely to take a turn round the upper fluke of 
the anchor, so that, when a strain is put upon it, it 
will pull the other fluke out of the ground and so 
cause the anchor to drag. To obviate this heave the 
cable short at slack water and let it go again when 
the vessel swings to the tide. 

If one is anchored on rocky ground the anchor is 
apt to get foul, and may have to be abandoned unless 
one has adopted one of the two following methods 
for insuring its recovery. Before letting go the an- 
chor fasten the end of a small line to the crown of it, 
and buoy the other end. If the anchor has got hold 
of a rock and refuses to come up when the cable is 
hauled upon, it can be liberated by hauling on the 
tripping line. 

If the anchorage is to be but a temporary one the 
same end can be attained by bending the cable on to 
the crown of the anchor, instead of to the shackle or 
ring, and by stopping the cable along the shank or to 
the shackle with twine, as shown in Fig. 56. If the 
anchor is foul the stopping will break when the cable 
is hauled upon, and the anchor, being then pulled 
down first, will get free. Remember that there is al- 
ways a chance, when this method is employed, of the 
stopping accidently breaking while the vessel lies at 
anchor; in which case the anchor will of course drag. 

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This plan therefore will not do if you wish to turn 
in for the night and sleep in security. 

The terms employed in describing the different 
parts of an anchor will be understood by referring 
to Fig. 56 — a a is the shank; b b are the arms termi- 
nating in the barbed flukes; c c d is the stock, which 
is at right angles to the arms ; e is the crown. 

In heavy weather a vessel is greatly relieved by 
lowering the mainsail and hoisting the trysail in its 




Fig. 56. 



place. The mainsail must be well stowed, and the 
boom must be securely lashed amidships. The throat 
and peak halyards must be taken ofif the main gaff 
to be hooked on to the trysail gaff. The topping 
lifts must be unhooked and be fastened in the main 
rigging — so too must be the peak-halyards if the try- 
sail is jib-headed and is therefore hoisted with the 
throat halyards only. 

If a small vessel be overtaken by such heavy 
weather, when she is on the open sea, that she is in 

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sports and Games 

danger, even when hove-to under her storm canvas, 
a Drogue or Floating Anchor can be put out, a 
contrivance which has enabled even small open boats 
to ride out the heaviest gales with safety. A drogue 
generally consists of a framework of iron or wood, 
with strong canvas stretched across it, so as to offer 
great resistance to the water when dragged through 
it broadside on. I carried a drogue with me on the 
Falcon during her South Atlantic cruise, but never 
had occasion to use it save in the shark-infested an- 




FiG. S7- 

chorage off the desert island of Trinidad, where I 
hung it overboard each morning and had my bath in 
it, without risk of being snapped up by one of the 
voracious monsters ever on the watch around us. 
This drogue (Fig. 57), was thus fashioned: — A coni- 
cal bag of stout canvas, about five feet in diameter, 
was bent on to an iron ring, which was attached to the 
hawser by a bridle; a tripping line of light rope was 
also fastened to the pointed end of the drogue, by 
means of which it could be capsized and relieved of 
the pressure of the water before being hauled on 
board. 

176 



Boating 

A vessel riding to her drogue with some forty 
fathoms of hawser out (grass rope which floats on the 
water is perhaps the best), as she drags astern is ever 
kept head to wind and sea, and can not well pay off or 
get broadside on the waves as they roll by her. 

If no drogue is carried on board, a very effective 
one can be extemporized by bending one side of a 
small jib or other sail to a spar and riding to that 




Fig. 58. 



( Fig. 58) . The hawser must be attached to the mid- 
dle of a rope about twice the length of the spar, the 
rope being made fast at either end to the extremities 
of the spar, thus forming a span, and keeping the 
spar broadside on to the seas. A bit of ballast should 
be attached to the lower corner of the sail in order to 
sink it and keep it in a vertical position, so that it 
may offer the greatest resistance to the water. The 

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sports and Games 

spar to some extent serves as a breakwater as well as 
a floating anchor, and prevents the seas from break- 
ing near the vessel. 

When riding to a drogue it will be well, unless 
the gale be very heavy, to have a reefed mizzen set if 
the vessel be a yawl, and a reefed trysail if she be a 
cutter; in either case the sail must be sheeted amid- 
ships. 

If running for a bar harbor with the wind on 
shore and the sea breaking heavily on the bar, a small 
drogue can be towed astern with great advantage, as 
it will prevent the sea from driving the vessel's stern 
round and broaching her to. 



OPEN BOAT SAILING 

In many respects the management of the open 
boat under canvas differs considerably from that of 
the decked yacht. An open boat is more easily cap- 
sized and swamped; her movements are more sud- 
den; every manoeuvre has to be performed with 
greater rapidity than on the larger craft. He who 
attempts to sail her as he would a decked and deep- 
keeled yacht is pretty certain to come to grief sooner 
or later. The open boat sailor must never forget 
what a tricky and dangerous craft he has under him, 
and must never relax his care and watchfulness. 

It is not only because a boat is open, and would 
therefore fill if she were sailed gunwale under like 

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Boating 

a yacht, that she is more dangerous than the latter. 
Being of shallow draught, with no ballast outside, 
she has little stability, and once blown oyer beyond 
a certain angle can not recover herself and must cap- 
size. Thus if you carry too much canvas in a choppy 
sea a little lop that a yacht would pay no attention to 
may lift up the side of the open boat till she attains 
the danger angle, when the wind pressing on the sail 
will complete the mischief, and the next moment she 
will be bottom up. It has been pointed out in previ- 
ous paragraphs that ballast lying in the bottom of a 
shallow boat does not materially increase her stabil- 
ity, whereas the recovering power of a deep vessel is 
greater the more she heels over, so that she is practi- 
cally uncapsizable. 

An open boat should carry no more ballast than 
is absolutely necessary, and what there is should be 
kept amidships, so that both bow and stern are buoy- 
ant and rise successively to the passing seas. Except 
when an open boat is being raced by an experienced 
crew, it is highly imprudent to stiffen her by shifting 
ballast to windward or by making her passengers sit 
on the weather gunwale ; as a sudden lull or change 
in the direction of the wind, or the roll caused by a 
passing beam sea may result in her suddenly capsiz- 
ing to windward. But under certain circumstances 
it may be prudent to shift ballast fore or aft. Thus, 
if one is compelled to run before a dangerously heavy 
sea, the tendency to broach-to can be diminished by 

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sports and Games 

moving some of the ballast aft; on the other hand, 
when one is pulling against the sea it is often advis- 
able to move the ballast forward, for this gives the 
boat a better grip of the water, and renders her less 
likely to be knocked off her course by a wave. 

Though battens should be fastened to the floor of 
an open boat to prevent the ballast from slipping to 
leeward in a squall, the ballast, unless it consists of 
water-tanks, should not be so secured that it can not 
fall overboard if the boat capsizes. The boat re- 
lieved of her ballast will float instead of sinking, and 
can be recovered; moreover, the crew are enabled 
to cling to her until succor arrives. But even if the 
ballast be not secured, it will often remain in the 
swamped boat and drag her down. It is for this rea- 
son that water is the only form of ballast for an open 
boat that w^ill render her absolutely unsinkable. 

Whereas in smooth water, a yacht, if not over- 
canvased, can keep steadily on her course regardless 
of the squalls, save that she leans gracefully to them 
and increases her speed, the open boat has frequently 
to be luffed up into the stronger puffs, or her sheets 
have to be eased off. If the boat have but a single 
sail, ease off the sheet smartly when luffing to a heavy 
squall. If she carry a foresail, ease off the fore-sheet 
first, and ease off the main-sheet only if the squall be 
of exceptional violence. With a main and mizzen- 
rlgged boat the mizzen-sheet, as a rule, should not be 
let go in a squall. With a wind of given strength 

t8o 



Boating 

much less canvas should be carried in rough than in 
smooth water. If there is much sea sail the boat un- 
der snug canvas, which she can carry without danger 
in the squalls; for if a steep comber comes down on 
you and you have to luff up to it just at the moment 
that a heavy gust compels you to let go your sheets, 
you will lose all control over the boat; her way will 
be lost, and she may be rolled over by the next wave. 
To sail safely across rough water, you should keep 
your eyes on the seas alone and steer so as best to ride 
over them, regardless of the squalls, having your sails 
ramping full ; this can only be done by reducing your 
canvas sufficiently. 

It is a good rule, when sailing a small boat, not to 
belay the sheets. Take a turn 
with the sheet round the after- 
thwart, or a pin or cleat, and 
hold the fall in the hand; the 
sheet can then be let go in a 
moment. If two men are sail- 
ing the boat, the one steering can tend the main-sheet, 
while the other looks to the fore-sheet. 

Patent cleats have been invented for open boats, 
which automatically release the sheets so soon as 
the wind pressure on the sails and the consequent 
strain on the sheets exceed a certain limit and heel 
the boat toward the danger angle. But, if one must 
belay one's sheet, perhaps the safest and simplest 
method is the old-fashioned one represented in Fig. 

i8i 

.Vol. 14 — 7 




Sports and Games 

59. On either quarter of the boat an iron pin is fitted 
under the gunwale, allowing space for the sheet to 
pass between it and the boat's planking. The sheet is 
taken round the pin and a bight is passed under the 
standing part of the sheet, which jams it so long as 
there is a strain upon the sheet. A pull upon the fall, 
which must be kept close to the hand, withdraws the 
bight and at once releases the sheet. 

The halyards also must be so belayed that they 
can be quickly let go; therefore a half-hitch should 
not be taken on the top of the turns on the cleat. The 
halyards should always be properly coiled and cap- 
sized, ready to run out without risk of getting foul. 
If the sheet and halyard falls are lying about un- 
tidily in the bottom of the boat they will tie them- 
selves into knots, and when let go will jam in the 
blocks and comb-cleats or get entangled with the feet 
of the crew — a frequent cause of capsizing and of 
loss of life even among good swimmers. Many sail- 
ing-boats and canoes appear to me to be supplied 
with a superfluity of ropes. Rapidity and ease in 
performing the manoeuvres may be gained by this, 
but the risks of the cordage getting entangled and 
jamming is much increased. In the eyes of some 
amateur sailors, to have as much rigging in a twelve- 
foot dinghy as would be carried on a twelve-ton 
yacht makes a brave show; but, as a matter of fact, 
not a single rope that can be dispensed with should 
be allowed in the open boat. 

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Boating 

If a boat is intended for single-handed sailing it 
is well to have the halyards leading aft, so that one 
need not leave the tiller and go forvv^ard to lower the 
sail. The halyards, in this case, are led through 
blocks at the foot of the mast. These blocks should 
not be attached to the mast itself, but to the thwart 
through which the mast is stepped. 

It can not be too much insisted upon that an open 
boat must not be treated as if she were a yacht. For 
example, one would never attempt to climb the mast 
in order to reeve a halyard or for any other purpose, 
more especially when the boat is under way. The 
sail should be lowered, and the mast should be un- 
stepped. When sailing an open boat the helmsman 
sits on the weather-side; but great risk is incurred by 
allowing the other hands — more especially if they 
are inexperienced — to do so. As a rule, therefore, 
passengers should be made to sit in the centre of the 
boat, and if there be much sea the bottom of the 
boat is the best place for them. 

One should always carry a lifebuoy when sailing 
a small boat. To do so on boats engaged in rac- 
ing is made compulsory by the rules of most sailing 
clubs. 

When a squall strikes a boat that has plenty of 
v/ay on her, the increased wind pressure in her sails 
is chiefly exerted in propelling her faster through the 
water; but if the boat is stationary, nearly the whole 
force of the wind is at first spent in heeling her over, 

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sports and Games 

and she may capsize unless she gathers way quickly. 
Consequently, when sailing under the, lee of a vessel, 
one should be ready to let go the sheets in a moment. 
For the boat will probably have the wind taken out 
of her sails when she is passing the vessel; and the 
moment she has got clear of it, her steerage-way al- 
most lost, the wind will suddenly give her a knock- 
down blow while she is in this helpless condition ; so 
that, unless one is ready to slack up sheets promptly, 
over the boat will go. 

Sail and mast should be lowered before coming 
alongside a vessel to board her. 

When running before the wind in rough water 
it is advisable not to bring the wind directly aft, 
as the boat's yawing may cause an accidental jibe. 
It is better to sail for somiC distance with the wind 
on one quarter, then to jibe and sail with the wind 
on the other quarter. 

A beam sea is of course the most dangerous. If 
compelled to sail with the sea abeam, bear away be- 
fore the bigger seas. If the sea is very heavy it is 
best not to attempt to sail with the wind abeam. One 
can fetch one's destination by running before the 
wind and sea for a while, and then luffing up in a 
smooth and sailing close-hauled, and so on alter- 
nately. 

Jibe with great care, hauling the boom inboard as 
you put the helm up. Remember that when the 
boom swings over, the force of the jibe will in a 

184 



Boating 

moment drive the boat up into the wind's eye unless 
you meet, or rather anticipate, this tendency with 
your helm. 

A boat carrying a single sail naturally has its 
mast stepped well forward; consequently, if such a 
boat is in the wind's eye, in irons, and gathering 
stern-way, she can be made to pay off again by 
holding the boom over to windward and the tiller 
to leeward. When the boat has paid off sufficiently, 
she will rapidly gather way again if the sheet is 
trimmed to leeward and the sail is allowed to draw. 

It is often advisable, when running before a heavy 
sea, to unship the rudder and to steer with an oar. 
The open-boat sailor, by the way, should never leave 
his moorings without having his oars on board. It 
often happens that the novice is guilty of this omis- 
sion, being too proud of his little craft to bear in 
mind that she is not a large yacht propelled by sails 
alone. 

Moreover, when shipping the oar-crutches, one 
must not forget to secure them to the gunwale with 
the lanyards which are attached to the ends of 
crutches for this purpose. If a crutch falls overboard 
at a critical moment disaster may ensue. If a crutch 
is lost and there is no spare one at hand, a rope grom- 
met, or even a piece of cord fastened in a loop to the 
rowlocks, will serve the purpose temporarily, and 
enable one to employ the oars as before. 

One oar, which should not be too long or heavy, 

185 



Sports and Games 

should lie always within easy reach of the man sail- 
ing single-handed. With this he can pull the boat 
round if she misses stays, and steer her if the rudder 
carries away, or when running before a heavy sea. 
It is well to have a hollow cut into the transom to 
hold the oar, so that one can scull over the stern, a 
convenient method of propelling a boat when in 
a crowded harbor. 

In case a boat is driven out to sea in heavy 
weather, a deep-sea or floating anchor should be 
made with the spars. Small open boats have fre- 
quently ridden out Atlantic gales with safety in this 
fashion. 

, Every one who goes open-boat sailing on an ex- 
posed coast would do well to study the rules pub- 
lished by the National Lifeboat Institution of Eng- 
land with regard to the management of open boats in 
rough water, and the beaching of them through a 
surf. The following is a summary of these rules: 

I. As a general rule speed must be given to a 
boat rowing seaward against a heavy surf; for other- 
wise a sea may carry her back with it, turning her 
broadside on, or end-up, and so capsizing her. She 
should be given such way as to enable her to pass 
through the crest of the sea and leave it as soon as 
possible behind her. 

II. A boat running before a broken sea to the 
shore offers no resistance to it and is carried before 
it, thus running great danger of capsizing, either 

i86 



Boating 

by broaching to, or by running her bows under 
water. Her way should therefore be stopped on the 
approach of each dangerous sea that overtakes her, 
and this is effected in either of the three following 
ways: i. By turning the boat's head to the sea before 
entering the broken water, and then backing in stern 
foremost, pulling a few strokes ahead to meet each 
heavy sea, and then again backing astern. 2. If row- 
ing to shore with the stern to seaward, by backing the 
oars on the approach of a heavy sea, and rowing 
ahead again as soon as it has passed the bow of the 
boat. This is the best method if the boat is a long 
one with a pointed stern like a whale-boat. 3. If 
rowed in bow foremost, by towing astern a pig of 
ballast or large stone, or a drogue, so as to hold the 
boat's stern back. 

When running for the shore through a heavy sea 
a head-sail only should be used, and this should be 
reefed if it is large. It is usually safer to lower masts 
and sails and work the boat to shore with oars alone. 

Where a shore is flat the water breaks far out, the 
more dangerous breakers being in comparatively 
deep water; and as one nears the land the danger less- 
ens, the force of the sea gradually expending itself. 
Consequently a boat, whether she be brought in stern 
or bow first, is kept straight before the sea until she 
grounds, when the crew jump out and haul her up 
the beach. 

But if the shore be steep, the sea does not break 

187 



sports and Games 

until it falls upon the beach, and one can approach 
close to before incurring any danger. To beach a 
boat on a steep shore she is run straight in, and at the 
last moment her bow is turned broadside on to the 
beach. She should then be hauled up as quickly as 
possible out of reach of the breakers. 

On some coasts washed by wide oceans the sea 
breaks heavily on the beach even in the calmest 
weather. If the surf be dangerous, one can wait just 
outside until a comparative smooth follows a succes- 
sion of big waves, and then pull in at full speed. One 
can see this very cleverly done by the boatmen of 
Madeira when the steep green rollers thunder on its 
shingle beach. 

If a surf is breaking on a steep, rocky shore and 
it is necessary to embark or to disembark passengers, 
this can be done without beaching the boat and there- 
by incurring the risk of staving her in. The anchor 
is let go just outside the surf, and the boat is backed 
in toward the shore with the oars, while a hand in 
the bows pays out the cable slowly, thus keeping the 
boat end on to the sea. When the boat's stern is near 
enough to the shore to allow of a man leaping off or 
on to the boat, the cable is made fast; but the man in 
the bows must be in readiness to haul out again on the 
approach of a dangerous sea, giving her cable again 
when the moment is favorable. By this plan, if it is 
properly worked, and provided the anchor holds and 
the cable does not part, there is no chance of the boat 

188 



Boating 

striking the rocks. During this operation a line 
should be carried from the boat's stern to the shore, 
so as to prevent the boat from being turned broadside 
on by a retiring wave. By manipulating the cable 
and stern line, the boat can be easily hauled back- 
ward and forward between her anchorage and the 
shore. 

The following hints apply to river-sailing in open 
boats. In a river the current generally runs stronger 
in the centre, and more slowly along the banks; but 
bear in mind that, if the river is winding, the strength 
of the current sweeps close past the point at the con- 
vex side of each bend, and then, at first preserving its 
old direction, crosses diagonally toward the other 
side before distributing itself evenly in the channel 
and acquiring the direction of the new reach. On 
the other hand, in the bay formed on the concave side 
of a bend, there is little or no current, and sometimes 
even a back eddy will be found. When racing on a 
river it is important to make use of this knowledge; 
and also, when cruising on a river like the Seine, 
where the tide rushes up in a steep and dangerous 
wave, or bore as it is called in England, one's safety 
often depends on close attention to this tendency of 
river currents; for at each big bend of the river the 
tide is deflected, and there is generally a place on one 
side or the other where one can anchor in smooth 
water, while everywhere else the bore is breaking 
heavily. In straight reaches the bore is most danger- 

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Sports and Games 

ous close to the banks; at Caudebec, on the Seine, it 
piles up along the quay-side in a roller twenty feet in 
height at spring tides. If overtaken by the bore when 
sailing — its distant roar usually gives good warning 
— make for the middle of the river, lower your sail 
and meet it head on, pulling gently up against it with 
your sculls. 

When turning to windward on a river, the cur- 
rent with you, be careful not to tack too near in to the 
shore, more especially if you have not got good steer- 
age way; for if you bring your boat within a few feet 
of the bank before you go about, the bow will be out 
of the current, while the stern, still remaining in it, 
will be swept up-stream, and so cause you to miss 
stays and probably to run on shore. 

When lowering sail and taking to your oars on a 
river, follow the usual rule for rowing boats — that 
is, keep along the bank when pulling against the 
current, and stay in mid-stream when you are going 
with it. 

Beware of bridges. Do not attempt to tack 
through the arch of a bridge if it is a narrow one, un- 
less you are very familiar with the conditions; it is 
better to lower your sail and row the boat through. 
Wind concentrates in an arch as in a funnel; so that 
supposing you approach with the wind almost abeam, 
you will find it suddenly head you and blow with a 
violent gust right in your teeth as you enter the arch. 
Even when running, you must be on your guard on 

190 



Boating 

account of this sudden great increase of the wind's 
strength, which is almost certain to occur; for if your 
mast and sail, as is often the case, will only pass nar- 
rowly under the centre of the arch, a very slight de- 
viation from your course (almost unavoidable when 
a squall suddenly strikes you in the face) may cause 
your peak to get foul of the bridge above, when a 
capsize of a particularly dangerous nature is likely 
to ensue. Several lives of men who were good swim- 
mers and knew their work in a boat have been lost in 
this way. 

When sailing under a bridge with a balance-lug 
let go the tack if there is a chance of the peak strik- 
ing the bridge. This as a rule allows the yard to dip 
several feet, and you can quickly sweat down your 
tack again as soon as you have got through. 

If your mast is too high to pass under a bridge, 
take care to lower it in good time if the current is 
with you. It is exceedingly awkward to find your 
mast jammed at the step or tabernacle, just as the 
stream is sweeping you on to the arch. 

On several rivers special local rules are in force 
which, in some cases, reverse the ordinary rules of 
the road at sea. For example, it is the custom on 
many narrow rivers for a vessel tacking up against 
the stream to give way to a vessel running before the 
wind down-stream, when the two meet at a bridge 
which will only admit of one sailing craft at a time 
passing through. It is obvious that a vessel carried 

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Sports and Games 

down by fair wind and current can not be brought up 
suddenly, and would probably collide with the sides 
of the bridge had she to get out of the way of the ves- 
sel beating up; whereas the latter is completely un- 
der control, and can easily luff up along the bank be- 
low the bridge and wait till the other has sailed 
through. 



ROWING 

OWING is the oldest of the regular organized 
college sports. As long ago as 1829 Oxford 
rowed with and defeated Cambridge, and some seven 
years later another race was rowed in which Cam- 
bridge won. In America the earliest college boat club 
was formed in 1843 at Yale, and in the following year 
the Oneida Boat Club was started at Harvard. Nine 
years later the first race was rowed between Yale 
and Harvard on Lake Winnepesaukee. Since then 
American colleges have gone in largely for rowing, 
and, at the present writing, there are two annual re- 
gattas, one at New London, and one at Poughkeep- 
sie, which include, the former Yale and Harvard, 
and the latter Cornell, Pennsylvania, Columbia, Wis- 
consin, Georgetown, and Syracuse, and it Is expected 
more will enter. The largest regatta of American 
colleges was in 1875, when no less than thirteen col- 
lege crews were entered. Rowing is a sport which 
requires a great deal of steadiness of purpose, be- 
cause, unlike several of the other sports daily prac- 
tice does not consist in contests, but in practice with- 
out the stimulus of rivalry save that of securing a 
place in the boat. It is true that of late years, college 
crews have been trained to contest more freely than in 

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sports and Games 

the old days, and occasional brushes between first 
and second crews, or with class crews, or with the 
freshmen enlivens the somewhat dull routine of prep- 
aration. But, for all that, there are weeks and months 
of training and long days of hard work when no en- 
thusiastic crowd assembles to watch and inspire them 
by their presence. For this reason probably, more 
than any other, coaching has been longer recognized 
in rowing than in the other sports. It is necessary 
that all the men in the crew row together, and some 
of the best practice consists in early rows of many 
miles, in which the mere fact of sitting behind an- 
other man and watching him tends to make all the 
men more uniform in action. Many a man becomes 
discouraged in rowing, but those who persevere 
eventually reap reward for all their work. 

A certain adaptability is regarded as essential, 
and as in any other contest requiring skill, it is prob- 
ably true that some men have the knack of imitating 
others and following instructions more than others, 
and these are men who are considered adaptable as 
oarsmen. As far as the build of a man goes, it is not 
essential that a man be a giant, either in stature or 
strength. Other things being equal, it is probably 
desirable to have an eight-oared crew with four 
powerful men in the waist of the boat, but winning 
crews have had men who would hardly answer that 
description. It is also desirable that the men sit as 
nearly uniform as possible, that is, from the hips to 

194 



Rowing 

the shoulders; the height is something the same. 
This makes it more simple to have every stroke of the 
same length. Endurance is an essential, and that, 
too, whether in a mile race or a four mile race, for 
the effort is adapted to the distance, and a crew is 
expected to row themselves out by the time they pass 
the line unless they have a marked lead. 

For the organization of a boat club some proper 
piece of water is essential. It may be a river, it may 
be tide-water, and it may be a still-water lake. Of all 
these, probably a still-water lake is the most satis- 
factory, because it is possible there to get exact meas- 
urement of the work of various crews, and to tell by 
actual times over a measured distance the advantage 
of certain measurements in men, rigging or stroke, 
and this naturally gives the coach or captain a more 
definite idea of the value of any change. But for all 
that, any course where a mile or even three-quarters 
of a mile of good v\^ater can be obtained is good 
enough to support a crew. 

Of boats there are an infinite variety, from a single 
scull up to the eight-oared shell. The boats most 
commonly used are single-sculls, pair-oars, six-oared 
shells, barges and eight-oared shell barges. A shell, 
it should be understood, is a more delicate, cranky 
piece of work than a barge, and men or boys rowing 
for the first time should begin in broad boats of al- 
most any kind, and gradually work their way up un- 
til they can row in a barge, and from that they can 

^9S 



Sports and Games 

graduate to a shell. One of the essentials in any boat 
club is to take care of the equipment. These fragile 
boats which are used for racing can not be bumped 
up against a wharf or grounded in the middle on a 
bar, while the men are sitting in the boat, without 
damage that can hardly be repaired. Old boats 
should be used for early practice, and every boat, 
when not in use should be shelved, that is, hung upon 
a number of brackets, bottom up, four to six of these 
brackets being necessary for the ordinary eight-oared 
shell, as they must be near enough together to prevent 
sagging. The boat should be kept well varnished, 
with bolts, out-riggers, screws, locks, and stretchers 
all kept in good order. The boat should be wiped 
when taken from the water, both inside and out. 
Before the race it is customary to rub down the boat 
with pumice stone and grease it with oil or some 
similar substance. The customary eight-oared racing 
shell weighs in the neighborhood of 230 to 270 
pounds. The cedar boat weighs something more 
than the paper boat, and while a paper boat is stiffer 
at the outset, it is claimed that the cedar boat holds its 
stiffness longer. The length is about sixty feet, and 
the depth some nine inches, and the breadth from 
twenty-two to twenty-five in the middle, and varying 
down to a foot and a half at the ends of the cock-pit. 
The oars weigh about seven or seven and one-half 
pounds apiece, and are about twelve feet long, a lit- 
tle more than two-thirds of this out-board, that is 

196 



Rowing 

from the button of the row lock to the tip of the 
blade. 

In launching a boat the crew take it from the 
rack, carrying it usually keel up to the edge of the 
float, four men being on each side of the boat, and 
when the edge of the float is reached, one set of four 
men hold the boat, or rather they lift it above their 
heads while the men on the side next the water come 
under. Then all eight lift the boat out on to the 
water. " When the boat is placed in the water one 
sees running along the centre of the bottom a strip of 
wood called the keelson, and bracing on seat braces 
delicatel}^ transfers all the weight to the foot on the 
keelson, and lifts the other foot, slipping it into the 
stretcher and letting the body down into the seat. 

There are certain terms used in rowing which 
should be understood, as they are used in coaching 
and in descriptions generally, 

''Ready All" means the eight oars are put back 
to the full reach, the knees of the men being bent, the 
slides all aft, and the arms extended. 

"Give Way" is the order for the men to swing up 
from the ready position after the beginning of the 
stroke. 

"Avast" means stop rowing, and this order should 
be given when the oars are in the water, and not when 
they are on the recover, except in the case of critical 
moments. 

"Hold" is an order instructing a man to keep the 

197 



sports and Games 

oar buried at right angles to the side of the boat, the 
plane of the blade parallel to the surface. 

"Back water" is the reverse of rowing. 

"Catch" is when the oars take the water on the 
stroke and the shoulders swing up. 

"The finish" is when the oars leave the water at 
the completion of the stroke. 

"Recover" is the set of movements made by an 
oarsman from the time of the finish until he reaches 
the position of catch again. 

"Bevel of the oar" is the angle it makes with the 
water when being dipped. 

"Time" indicates the unison of the crew. 

"Bucking" or "Meeting" the oar is letting the 
body come toward the oar at the finish when the arms 
are pulled in. 

"To slump" is to settle down with the upper part 
of the body at the finish of the stroke. 

"Rushing the slide" is to moderate the sliding 
seat instead of keeping it under control with the feet 
on the stretcher. 

"To swing out" is to fail to keep the body in line 
over the keel. 

To "Get in late" or to "Get out late" is to put the 
oar in after the rest of the crew. 

"Short on catch" means not reaching far enough 
toward the bow with the oar at the full reach. 

To "clip" is to row the first part of the stroke in 
the air. 

198 



Rowing 

Rigging is a most delicate matter, and only those 
who follow the sport very closely or who are pro- 
fessional boatmen understand about it. It consists in 
getting a man so fitted as regards his seat, out-rigger, 
stretcher, oar and slide, as to do his work at the maxi- 
mum of efficiency, and at the same time keep with the 
rest of the crew. 

The stroke means the entire movement of the 
oarsmen in sending the shell through the water by 
a certain repetition of acts, consisting of repeated 
pushing of the oars in the water. There are two 
parts to the stroke — the stroke proper, that is from 
the catch to the finish, and the recover, from the time 
the oar comes out of the water on the finish until it 
again enters it on the catch. The stroke itself consists 
of three parts, the catch, the pull through, and the 
finish. The recover consists of the feather, the carry- 
ing of the blade back over the water, and the turning 
of it up for the catch. While he is making the stroke 
the oarsman swings up with his shoulders, pushes out 
his legs until his knees are nearly straight and finally 
brings the oar to the body with his arms. During the 
recover these movements are reversed. He first gets 
his hands out, then bends his knees, his shoulders 
come forward, and he is ready for the next stroke. 

Over the method of performing these acts, there 
has been more discussion than would fill twenty 
books the size of this one. There have been advo- 
cates of the fast stroke, of the slow stroke, of the long 

199 



sports and Games 

stroke, and the short stroke. There are schools of 
rowing, and have been ever since college racing was 
taken up. No one has yet satisfactorily settled all 
the points connected with rowing, and even one of the 
simplest — the question of the wide or narrow blade — 
is a point upon which oarsmen still differ radically. 
But there is one point upon which all are agreed, and 
that is harmony. That the men in a crew must row 
as nearly alike as possible in order to get speed out 
of the boat, and still more, that every man must do a 
certain part of the work at least in perfect time with 
his companions. Upon these two points it is impos- 
sible to go astray. After that one may follow all 
sorts of schools and never row well, when a crew, 
entirely lacking in knowledge, but having rowed to- 
gether for a long time, may turn out fast. 

*An oarsman about to row, having taken his oar 
in hand, proceeds to embark. This he should do 
by laying the blade of his oar in the water, if on the 
outside, or on the float if on the shore-side oar, and 
then stepping into the boat with his face to the stern, 
putting one foot on the keelson, lengthwise — not ath- 
wart it, for fear of forcing his toe or heel through the 
boat — and, stooping, should let himself down gently 
on the seat by placing a hand on each gunwale. He 
should next ship his oar, placing the handle in the 
rowlock outside. He should sit square and exactly 

* From the "Athlete's Guide," Spalding's Athletic Library. 

■200 



Rowing 

opposite the handle of his oar, not askew. The body 
should be erect, with the shoulders slightly thrown 
back and the elbows close to the flanks. 

The oar should be held firmly yet lightly in both 
hands, the outside one close to the end of the handle — 
but not at the end, capping it — with the fingers above 
and the thumb underneath it, although some men 
prefer the thumb of the outside hand in the same 
position as the fingers — and the inside hand, or that 
next the loom or body of the oar, from one and one- 
half to two inches, though not more than two and 
one-half inches away from, but grasping the oar more 
convexly than its fellows, the thumb underneath; 
bearing in mind always that the mechanical power 
of the outside hand is the greater in the bare pulling, 
and that the inside hand mainly guides and manipu- 
lates the oar. If the inside hand is held too low, a 
good deal of force is lost, the arm is bent, the shoul- 
ders are not squared and the beginning of the stroke 
is weakened. The forearms should be below the 
level of the handle, and the wrists dropped and re- 
laxed, the oar being now quiescent, at right angles to 
the keel of the boat, and feathered. The diverse posi- 
tions of the two hands and wrists enable the oar to be 
wielded with greater facility than if alike, and per- 
mit of both arms being stretched out perfectly 
straight, not crooked or bent — when getting forward. 

In rowing the stroke, the body should be in- 
clined forward, with the backbone perfectly straight, 

20I 



sports and Games 

the stomach being kept well out and down be- 
tween the legs, the chest forward and raised as much 
as possible; in fact, the position of the trunk will 
be like that of a soldier at drill, excepting that in 
rowing, the great secret is to keep the stomach out, 
whereas in drilling it must be kept in. 

The shoulders should not be allowed to come too 
far forward; neither should one be advanced before 
the other, nor should one be higher than its fellow. 
The arms should play freely in the shoulder joint, as 
stififness here and at the hips is a real hinderance to 
the best form. They should be perfectly straight 
from the shoulders to the wrists, and they should be 
treated in the first part of the stroke as mere connect- 
ing-rods between the body and the oar. If they are 
crooked) immediately the weight and strength are 
thrown on the handle of the oar, and thus the first 
part of the stroke is lost. The inside wrist, however, 
must be somewhat raised and the outside one bent 
slightly round in order that the knuckles may be 
parallel to the oar, as the oar must be firmly grasped 
with both hands, otherwise the beginning of the 
stroke will be weak. But it must be kept nearly flat, 
though pressed down the least bit in the world; in 
other words it must show only the natural hollow. 
The hands should hold the oar firmly, not with the 
tips as usual, but with the whole of the fingers well 
round the oar, and each separate finger — not merely 
the first two — must feel the oar distinctly. The 

202 



Rowing 

knuckles of the thumb must not be more than one and 
one-half or two inches apart at most, for if kept too 
far off one another, the inside arm is sure to get bent 
and the inside shoulder thrown back. The head 
must be held up, the eyes looking in a direct line 
astern, and the feet must be firmly planted against the 
stretcher. In reaching forward, the hands should be 
shot out straight from the body without the least 
pause, a peculiar way of doing this, but impossible to 
describe, though easily discernible, being the mark of 
first-class oarsmen. Almost as soon as the oar has 
passed the knees, the wrist should be raised to bring 
the blade at right angles to the water preparatory to 
dipping it, the fact of delaying this motion often re- 
sulting in not putting the oar in square. The body of 
the oarsman and the sliding seat are then drawn for- 
ward concurrently by the aid of the stretcher boots in 
readiness for taking the stroke. Care must, how- 
ever, be taken not to lower the hands too much, as this 
practice leads to chopping and cutting the stroke. 

Men differ slightly in their length of reach, but 
every one ought to be able to get the handle of his oar 
over his stretcher, and when there, he should raise his 
hands straight up at once, as, if not raised at once, the 
result is a hang, and if not straight the stroke is cut. 
The oar should then be instantaneously covered up to 
the shoulder, but no further, and immediately it is in 
this position the stroke should commence. The rower 
should "knit himself up," as the Irish call it, he 

203 



sports and Games 

should then spring like a bow when the string is 
loosed, and bring the muscles of his back and legs into 
play, as far as possible raising his weight off his seat, 
thus using his whole strength and weight at once and 
together. The motions at the end of the feather and 
at the beginning of the stroke are, however, so simul- 
taneous and take place so rapidly that it is very diffi- 
cult to analyze them. It is in this part of the stroke 
that five minutes' looking at a good oarsman rowing, 
is worth more than any number of words : in fact, no 
words really convey what is wanted. A "coach" may 
tell his pupil to "hit" the water, to "smite" it, etc., 
which may convey to the mind of a man who knows 
how to row what is required, but which can never im- 
part the idea to a tyro. Catching the beginning 
properly, like swinging, must come from inspiration. 
It will, however, assist a crew immensely if the coach 
will get into the boat and row a few short spins at a 
slow stroke, employing all his power at the beginning 
and making the crew follow his example, but he must 
be a strong man, as he will have the whole weight to 
lift at the commencement of the stroke. 

Having thus learned to catch the beginning of the 
stroke with his body only, the rower should finish it 
with his arms and shoulders, taking care to send his 
elbows close past his side, and to drop his shoulders 
well down and back, keeping his head up and his 
chest out. In the next place, the whole strength of 
his arms and shoulders should be put into the finish 

204 



Rowing 

of the stroke. This may seem to be recommending 
the fault of rowing the stroke out to the end, but it is 
really not so. This fault arises either from the begin- 
ning of the stroke having been shirked, from not 
using the full force of the body, or from not bending 
the arms soon enough. If this happens, the body has 
to be kept waiting until the arms come up to it, and 
hence an unseemly jerk. It is very difficult to de- 
termine the exact period at which the arms are to be 
brought into play, but it ought to be done about the 
time that the body is perpendicular. Thus the full 
weight and strength of the rower would be applied, 
and the oar will be dashed through the water in the 
way that marks a good oarsman. 

The oar should be brought straight home to the 
chest, the root of the thumbs touching the body about 
an inch or less below the button of the breast bone 
where the ribs branch off. Thus every inch of water 
is made use of. When there, the hands should be 
dropped straight down and then be turned over and 
shot out again close to the legs, and the body should 
follow without the least pause. If this be not done 
the oar will be feathered under water, and the boat 
buried; water will be thrown on to the next oar and 
the recovery impeded. In effecting the recovery, the, 
slide is an important agent; but before the forward 
sliding movement takes place, the body should be 
swung evenly forward from the hips, not with a jerk 
or plunge, or quicker at one time than another, but 

205 



Sports and Games 

freely and easily, as if the hip joint worked well and 
not stiffly. Much benefit may be derived from watch- 
ing two or three of the best oarsmen that can be 
found, observing them carefully, forming an ideal 
model, and then endeavoring to copy it. 

Two or three points should particularly be borne 
in mind: First, that when the hands are raised at the 
commencement of the stroke, and the oar, ipso facto, 
struck down below the surface, the whole of the 
power should be brought to bear at the moment of the 
oar's contact with the water, so as to create the great- 
est effect in the first or vital part of the stroke, one of 
the most important and too frequently broken laws of 
rowing; secondly, that the pull home to the chest 
should be in a perfectly straight line, thus causing a 
horizontal stroke through the water, which is another 
law frequently disregarded; thirdly, that the finish of 
the stroke should be as quiet and easy as it is possible 
to make it, but without lessening the force applied, 
which naturally diminishes, because at the first part 
of the stroke before the rowlock, the oar is at an acute 
angle to the boat, and after that at an obtuse angle. 
Here it is that one so often sees the stroke wind up 
with a jerk, as if to make some use of the little strength 
remaining in the human frame, the oar flirted out of 
the water, the elbows dug sharply back in an awk- 
ward and ungainly manner, and the body harshly and 
suddenly jolted forward. 

Next in importance are the movements described 

206 



Rowing 

by the oar itself, starting from a state of rest, i. e., 
feathered and at right angles to the keel of the boat. 

When the forward reach is taken, the blade of the 
oar should travel backward in the air, horizontally, 
at the distance of a few inches from the surface of the 
water — of course, depending upon the state of the 
surface, whether smooth or rough — until dipped for 
the stroke. As regards this dip, it is imperative that 
the blade descend to the proper depth before any 
force is applied, otherwise the stroke will be cut. To 
effect this the hands must be raised sharply, and the 
stroke must be instantaneously commenced. In a 
word, the oar must be put into the water with energy 
— not suffered to drop in of its own weight. When 
on the feather, the oar, after passing the knees, should 
be gradually turned before immersion, the feather 
concluding and the stroke beginning at once, with no 
interval whatever. Hence it will be perceived that 
the line described by the end of the blade, about 
which there are numerous theories and a variety of 
opinions, will be nearly parallel with the water until 
entering it, when it will immediately be dipped with 
a powerful scoop. 

The entry of the oar into the water can not be too 
sudden or too decided, so that it be not a chop and a 
splash ; and for this purpose the muscles of the arms 
should be gathering themselves together as the hands 
reach forward. It is a well-known and indisputable 
law that the greatest power can be applied in the first 

207 



sports and Games 

half of the stroke; that is to say, before the oar comes 
level with or abreast of the rowlock, and that the fur- 
ther aft it goes subsequently to passing that point, the 
more the power decreases. Such being the case, it is 
only an act of common-sense to endeavor to do as 
much work as possible when it will tell most, and 
when it contributes to lift a boat lightly along the top 
of the water. . On the other hand, if the application 
of the strength is deferred until the last part of the 
stroke, it is brought to bear when it is of least service ; 
a great and useless expenditure of power ensues, and 
the boat, instead of being assisted over the water, is 
driven down and buried in it, her way being there- 
fore checked. The same result ensues from men let- 
ting their weight rest on the seat, and then giving a 
wrench and feathering under water, instead of let- 
ting the weight rest on the stretcher and handle of the 
oar — in a word, from rowing with the arms rather 
than with the body, instead of using both. 

We now come to the position in which the blade 
is immersed, and I would observe that this is a most 
important point. It is said that the blade should de- 
scend at right angles to the water. In this opinion I 
can not altogether coincide, although even such a po- 
sition is far superior to an entry with the back of the 
blade forming an acute angle with the water, and 
the front of the blade an obtuse one. In either of 
these cases, however, there is something wrong with 
the thowl rowed against with the side of the loom 

208 



Rowing 

which bears against the thowl, or with that on which 
the oar rests when traversing the water. The proper 
position is for the front or hollow of the blade to be 
looking slightly downward upon (not along) the sur- 
face ; its entry is consequently less than a right angle. 
This enables the oar to take full and square hold of 
the water at once; it prevents its running down too 
deep, and, if firmly and scientifically manipulated, it 
obviates splashing. At the same time the oar ought 
not to be turned over too much, as otherwise it will 
not enter the water easily and will be apt to twist in 
the hand, besides straining the wrist; but no effort 
should be made whatever to force it over. The depth 
to which the oar descends through the medium of this 
peculiar catch, is to the shoulder or upper end of the 
blade. In this position it must continue until the 
hands are up to the chest — not stopping at a distance 
of a foot from it — when the stroke is concluded, and 
the feather commences. In the traverse through the 
water the blade of the oar should be barely covered, 
and no more — this is an accepted rule — and with the 
extraordinarily light boats used at the present day 
strict attention to this principle must be paid. When 
bringing the stroke to an end, the blade of the oar by 
a sudden movement — caused by dropping the hands 
and turning the wrists — is feathered or brought into 
plane with the surface of the water from being at 
right angles to it. This action should take place at 
the moment when the oar leaves the water, and the 

209 



Sports and Games 

lower end of the blade, by being turned suddenly 
cleanly aft as the loom rotates in the rowlock,throws 
the water astern in a little eddying whirlpool, and the 
whole business of the stroke is completed. The ap- 
pearance of this whirlpool should be carefully stud- 
ied, as it is a pretty good criterion of how a man is 
rowing, and if a coach happens to be pulling him- 
self, as is occasionally the case, it is one of the only 
guides he has in judging how his pupils are rowing 
behind him. It is almost impossible to describe the 
look it ought to wear, but plenty of small air-bubbles 
should keep rising, as in a soda-water bottle, long 
after the swirl has left the oar; the smaller eddies 
should be deep and well marked. Very light rowing 
makes a splash that soon subsides and deep rowing 
shows no air-bubbles. 

The foregoing component parts of a stroke, and its 
succeeding feather, it must be admitted, are. numer- 
ous, and to a certain extent apparently incompatible, 
but yet they are so blended in the work done by an 
expert oarsman as to seem but one action. Each, 
however, is fully and correctly performed, and the 
sum of these separated actions is consequently also 
perfect. 

At the risk of being prolix, I will briefly re- 
capitulate the main points to be recollected. They 
are as follows: First, a full, fair reach-out over the 
toes, with both arms perfectly straight; secondly, a 
square hold of the water at the dip of the oar, with an 

2IO 



Rowing 

application of the whole power at the moment of im- 
mersion; thirdly, a firm stroke of medium depth, 
pulled straight through the water, without wavering 
and without vibration, yet always kept long and duly 
light; fourthly, a graceful, easy finish, with a clear 
turn of the water off the after-edge of the blade — 
the feather being light, moderately low and rapid — 
and an instantaneous movement when the oar com- 
pletes the feather, and descends under the water. 



211 



FOOTBALL 

"POOTBALL at the present day is the most univer- 
^ sally popular of all our sports. It is particularly 
attractive to the spectators, and there are reports of 
an attendance at some of the English contests of over 
100,000 people. In the United States some of the 
large games in New York have been attended by 
over 40,000. 

It is a game requiring activity, skill, pluck and 
endurance, although it by no means makes the de- 
mand upon the heart and lungs that long running 
races or boat races do. 

Its origin was very ancient, and it is spoken of on 
many occasions in the literature of England of the 
twelfth century; and even further back than that it is 
evident that the Greeks and Romans had something 
which might be called similar. Later, in England, 
whole villages played against each other, and the ball 
was kicked or carried through the streets. 

Its first definite formation as an organized sport 
was due to the public schools in England : Rugby, 
Charter House, Westminster, Harrow and Eton. 
Later it went into the universities and became popu- 
lar there. Wherever English colonists went they car- 
ried the football game with them, and as it had be- 

212 



Football 

come divided into the Association game, which is 
more a kicliing game, and the Rugby game, which 
is more a game for carrying the ball, so the countries 
which took up their sport from England took some- 
times one and sometimes the other. In America a 
kind of mongrel game was played more nearly re- 
sembling perhaps the Association game, but in the 
early '70's Harvard visited Canada, and there had 
some matches under Rugby rules which proved so 
satisfactory that, through the instrumentality of Har- 
vard, Yale adopted them, and they then became com- 
mon to all the American colleges. At the same time, 
the rules were altered more or less and extended to 
meet the American needs. 

American intercollegiate football is played on a 
field 330 feet long and 160 feet wide. White border 
lines mark out this inclosure; and transverse lines 
every five yards are marked to aid in determining 
how far the ball is carried. The ball is a rubber blad- 
der inclosed in a leather sack and inflated with air. 
The game is played by teams of eleven men each, the 
object being for each side to carry the ball to its oppo- 
nents' goal and cross that line or kick it over the goal- 
bar, at the same time preventing their opponents from 
accomplishing this against them. 

The general arrangement of players is in three 
lines, one line called the "forwards," the other tAvo 
lines the "half-backs" and the "backs." There is also 
a "quarter-back," who stands just behind the rush 

213 

Vol. 14—8 



Sports and Games 

line. Various formations are possible, but the rules 
provide for a certain number of men being in the 
rush line, at least five. 

The match is commenced by one side kicking off 
the ball from the centre of the field, and the man re- 
ceiving the ball may run with it or kick it. If he 
runs with it and is held by his opponents, he cries 
down, and the ball is put on the ground for a scrim- 
mage which consists in the two teams lining up and 
the ball being snapped back with the hands by a man 
in the middle of the line to his quarter-back, who 
passes it to some one else for a kick or a run. The 
game continues with a series of these scrimmages, 
interspersed with runs and kicks, until the ball comes 
within striking distance of the goal, then a man will 
secure either a touchdown or a goal. The former is 
made by carrying the ball across the enemies' goal 
line and there have it downed, and entitles the side 
accomplishing this to a try at goal — that is, to an at- 
tempt, after bringing the ball out into the field of 
play, to kick at the goal without molestation. A goal 
may also be secured by a drop-kick from the field of 
play. That is, dropping the ball to the ground and 
kicking it the very minute it rises. It may also be 
scored by means of a place-kick, that is, the ball being 
held on the ground for the kicker. The ball must 
pass over the cross-bar and between the goal-posts 
to secure a goal. A goal can not be scored by means 
of a punt, that is, by means of kicking the ball di- 

214 



Football 

rectly dropped from the hand to the foot. It must 
touch the ground or be rolling or bounding along the 
ground. A side may carry the ball behind its own 
goal-line and touch the ball down, and this is called 
a safety, and entitles them to a kick out from twenty- 
five yards in front of their goal, but it scores against 
them. 

The game continues for two periods of thirty-five 
minutes each, with ten minutes intermission, and the 
side which scores the most points during this time 
wins the match. 

The side having the ball must make at least five 
yards in three attempts at running or else surrender 
the ball to the opposite side. A player may not get 
between the ball and his opponents' goal, as he is then 
"offside." A player may not intentionally tackle an- 
other below the knees, strike with the closed fist, 
throttle, trip, or use unnecessary roughness of any 
kind, nor can he wear projecting nails or iron plates 
on his shoes. When the ball goes out of bounds, that 
is, crosses the boundary line, it is brought back into 
the field of play and usually put in play by an ordi- 
nary scrimmage. 

Condensed, the rules provide as follows: 

Number of Players. — The game is played by 
teams of eleven men. 

Field and Goal. — The field is 330 feet long and 
160 feet wide, inclosed by heavy white lines. The 
lines at the two ends are goal-lines. In the middle 

215 



Sports and Games 

of each goal-line are two posts exceeding twenty feet 
in height, eighteen feet six inches apart, with cross- 
bar ten feet up. 

Kicks. — A place-kick is made by kicking the ball 
after it has been placed on the ground. A punt is 
made by letting the ball drop from the hands and 
kicking it before it touches the ground. A drop-kick 
by letting it strike the ground first. A kick-off is a 
place-kick from the centre of the field and can not 
score a goal (Rule 8), and is used to start the game, 
and also after a goal or touchdown has been made. 
A kick out is a drop-kick, place-kick or punt made 
by a player of the side which has made a safety or 
touchback. A free kick is any kick when the oppo- 
nents are restrained from advancing by rule. 

Touchdown, Touchback and Safety. — A touch- 
down is made when the ball in possession of a player 
is declared dead by the referee, any part of it being 
on, over or behind the opponents' goal-line. But if 
the ball be sent across the line by impetus given by 
attacking side, and secured by a defender of that goal, 
it is a touchback. If the defenders, however, carry 
or send it across their own goal-line and then make it 
dead, it is a safety. 

Fair Catch. — A fair catch consists in catching the 
ball after an opponent's kick, before it touches the 
ground, or in similarly catching a punt-out by one of 
the catcher's own side, provided the catcher makes a 
mark with his heel. Opponents who are off-side 

216 



i 



ffootDall— Httcr a Scrimmage 



—Vol. XIV, p. 217- 



Football 

may not interfere with a player trying for a fair 
catch, nor throw him after such catch is made. 

Officials. — There is an umpire who judges fouls 
and a referee who rules on the progress of the ball, 
also, in important matches, a timekeeper and lines- 
men. 

Out of Bounds. — The ball is out of bounds when it 
crosses the side line, and it is brought back to that spot 
and put in play. 

Scrimmage. — Any man who is on side, that is, be- 
tween the ball and his opponent's goal, may run with 
the ball, and he may be tackled by his opponents. 
When so stopped one of his side puts the ball on the 
ground and the two teams line up for a scrimmage. 
The ball is then snapped back, or rolled back, with 
the hands by the centre rusher of the side in posses- 
sion to his own men. The first man who receives the 
ball from the snapback is the quarter, and he may 
not run with the ball. 

On Side. — Any men who on off-side are put on 
side when the ball is touched by an opponent. 

Time. — The game lasts two thirty-five minute 
halves, with a ten-minute intermission. 

Use of Hands and Arms. — The players of the side 
in possession of the ball, save the man who has the 
ball, may not use their hands or arms on their op- 
ponents. 

Position of Players in Scrimmage. — Of the side 
holding the ball there must be five players on a line 

217 



Sports and Games 

with the ball in a scrimmage, or else two of the men 
behind the line must be at least five yards back or 
outside the ends of the line. 

Forbidden. — No man may interferewith the snap- 
back, take part in the play when off-side, throw or bat 
the ball forward, use unnecessary roughness, trip or 
strike an adversary, tackle below the knees, pile up 
on a man when, he is down, interfere with a man 
making a fair catch, or wear projecting nails on his 
shoes or hard substances likely to injure others on 
his person. 

Score. — The game is decided by the score at the 
end of even halves, as follows: Goal from touch- 
down, 6 points ; from field kick, 5 ; touchdown with- 
out goal, 5 ; safety by opponents, 2. 

*Those who are taking up the sport for the first 
time should observe certain rules which will enable 
them to become adept players with less mistakes than 
perhaps would otherwise fall to their lot. 

A beginner in football should do two things: He 
should read the rules, and he should, if possible, 
watch the practice. If the latter be impossible, he 
and his men must, after having read the rules, start in 
and, with eleven on a side, play according to their 
own interpretation of these rules. When diflferences 
of opinion arise as to the meaning of any rule, a letter 
addressed to some one of the players upon prominent 



* From the "Athlete's Guide," Spalding's Athletic Lib?'ary. 

218 



Football 

teams will almost always elicit a ready and satisfac- 
tory answer. 

The first thing to be done in starting the practice 
is to provide the accessories of the game, which, in 
football, are of the simplest kind. The field should 
be marked out with ordinary lime lines, inclosing a 
space of 330 feet long and 160 feet wide. While not 
absolutely necessary, it is customary to mark the field 
also with transverse lines every five yards, for the 
benefit of the referee in determining how far the ball 
is advanced at every down. In the middle of the 
lines forming the ends of the field, the goal-posts are 
erected, and should be eighteen feet six inches apart, 
with cross-bar ten feet from the ground. The posts 
should project several feet above the cross-bar. The 
ball used is an oval leather cover containing a rubber 
inner, which is inflated by means of a small air pump 
or the lungs. The ball used by the principal teams 
is the Intercollegiate Match, No. J, adopted by the 
Intercollegiate Association, and made by A.G. Spald- 
ing & Bros. The costumes of the players form an- 
other very important feature and should be of a 
proper and serviceable nature. An innovation in 
uniforms was introduced a few years ago by Harvard 
in the shape of leather suits. Although they were ex- 
pensive, and while not on that account liable to be 
generally adopted, they were particularly light and 
good for a rainy day. Canvas makes most serviceable 

jackets for the players, as do also jerseys re-enforced 

219 



Sports and Games 

with leather. These can be home-made or purchased 
at a small expense from any athletic outfitter. The 
canvas jacket should fit closely, but not too tightly,and 
lace up in front, so that it may be drawn quite snugly. 
Some have elastic pieces set in at the sides, back or 
arms, but these additions are by no means necessary. 
Jerseys, with leather patches on elbows and shoulders 
are also worn. The trousers should be of some stout 
material, fustian, for example, and well padded. 
This padding can be done by any seamstress, quilting 
in soft material over knees and thighs, or the regular 
athletic outfitters furnish trousers provided with the 
padding. Long woollen stockings are worn, and not 
infrequently shin guards, by men playing in the for- 
ward line. The most important feature of the entire 
uniform is the shoe. This may be the ordinary can- 
vas and leather baseball, shoe with leather cross- 
pieces nailed across the sole to prevent slipping. Such 
is the most inexpensive form, but the best shoes are 
made entirely of leather, of moderately stout mate- 
rial, fitting the foot firmly, yet comfortably, lacing 
well up on the ankle, and the soles provided with a 
small leather spike, which can be renewed when worn 
down. Inside this shoe, and either attached to the 
bottom of it or not, as preferred, a thin leather anklet 
laces tightly over the foot, and is an almost sure pre- 
ventive of sprained ankles. The cap may be of almost 
any variety, and except in the cases of half-backs and 
back, does not play any very important part. These 

220 



Football 

men should, however, have caps with visors to pro- 
tect their eyes from the sun when catching a long 
kick. 

Underneath the canvas jackets any woollen under- 
wear may be put on, most players wearing knit jer- 
seys. As mentioned above, there are several players 
who can, to advantage, go without the regulation can- 
vas jacket and wear a jersey in its place. These are 
especially the quarter-back, the centre-rush or snap- 
back. Of recent years backs and line men tend more 
than ever to the adoption of the leather-reinforced 
jersey. 

The team of eleven men is usually divided into 
seven rushers or forwards, who stand in a line facing 
their seven opponents; a quarter-back, who stands 
just behind this line; two half-backs, a few yards be- 
hind the quarter-back; and finally, a full-back or goal 
tend, who stands at kicking distance behind the half- 
backs. This gives the general formation, but is, of 
course, dependent upon the plays to be executed. 

Before commencing practice, a man should be 
chosen to act as referee, umpire and linesman, for in 
practice games it is hardly necessary to have more 
than one official. The two sides then toss up, and the 
one winning the toss has choice of goal or kick-ofif. 
If there be a wind, the winner will naturally and 
wisely take the goal from which the wind is blowing 
and allow his opponent to have the ball. If there be 
no advantage in the goals he may choose the kick-ofif, 

221 



Sports and Games 

and his opponents in that case take whichever goal 
they like. The two teams then line up ; the holders 
of the ball placing it upon the exact centre of the 
field, and the opponents being obliged to stand back 
in their own territory at least ten yards, until the ball 
has been touched with the foot. Some man of the 
side having the kick-ofif must then kick the ball at 
least ten yards into the opponents' territory. Prefer- 
ably, therefore, he will send it across the goal line or 
else as far as he can, and still have his forwards reach 
the spot in season to prevent too great headway being 
acquired by the opponents' interference, but he will 
not kick it across the side line. The opponents then 
catch it and return it by a kick, or they run with it. 
If one of them runs with it he may be tackled by the 
opponents. As soon as the ball is fairly held ; that is, 
both player and ball brought to a standstill, the ref- 
eree blows his whistle and the runner has the ball 
"down," and some one upon his side, usually the man 
called the snap-back or centre-rush, must place the 
ball on the ground at that spot for a "scrimmage," as 
it is termed. The ball is then put in play again 
(while the men of each team keep on their own side 
of the ball, under the penalty of a foul for off-side 
play) by the snap-back's kicking the ball or snapping 
it back, either with his foot, or more commonly with 
his hand, to a player of his own side just behind him, 
who is called the quarter-back. The ball is in play, 
and both sides may press forward as soon as the ball 

222 



Football 

is put in motion by the snap-back. Naturally, how- 
ever, as the quarter-back usually passes it still further 
behind him to a half-back, or back, to kick or run 
with, it is the opposing side which is most anxious to 
push forward, while the side having the ball endeavor 
by all lawful means to retard that advance until their 
runner or kicker has had time to execute his play. It 
is this antagonism of desire on the part of both sides 
that has given rise to the special legislation regard- 
ing the use of the hands, body and arms of the con- 
testants — and beginners must carefully note the dis- 
tinction. As soon as the snap-back has sent the ball 
behind him, he has really placed all the men in his 
own line off-side ; that is, between the ball and the op- 
ponents' goal, and they, therefore, can theoretically, 
occupy only the position in which they stand, while 
the opponents have the legal right to run past them as 
quickly as possible. For this reason, and bearing in 
mind that the men ''on side" have the best claim to 
right of way, it has been enacted that the side having 
possession of the ball may not use their hands or arms, 
but only their bodies, when thus ofif-side, to obstruct 
or interrupt their adversaries, while the side running 
through in the endeavor to stop the runner, or secure 
possession of the ball, may use their hands and arms 
to make passage for themselves. 

The game thus progresses in a series of downs, fol- 
lowed by runs or kicks, as the case may be, the only 
limitation being that of a rule designed to prevent one 

223 



sports and Games 

side continually keeping possession of the ball with- 
out any material advance or retreat, which would be 
manifestly unfair to the opponents. This rule pro- 
vides that in three "downs" or attempts to advance the 
ball, a side not having made five yards toward their 
opponents' goal or retreated twenty yards toward their 
own goal, must surrender possession of the ball. A 
still further provision makes it contrary to rule that 
the team should retain possession by a second retreat 
of twenty yards unless the ball has meantime gone 
into the possession of the opponents. As a matter of 
fact, it is seldom that a team actually surrenders the 
ball in this way, because, after two attempts, if the 
prospects of completing the five-yard gain appear 
small, it is so manifestly politic to kick the ball as far 
as possible down the field, that such a method is more 
likely to be adopted than to make a last attempt by a 
run and give the enemy possession almost on the spot. 
In such an exigency, if a kick be made, the rules pro- 
vide that it must be such a kick as to give the oppo- 
nents fair and equal chance to gain possession of the 
ball and must go beyond the line of scrimmage un- 
less stopped by an opponent. There is one other ele- 
ment entering into this progress of the game, and that 
is the fair catch. This can be made from a kick by the 
opponents, provided the catcher takes the ball on the 
fly, and, no other of his own side touching it, plants 
his heel in the ground at the spot where the catch is 
made. This entitles him to a free kick; that is, his 

224 



Football 

opponents can not come within ten yards of his mark, 
made by heeling the catch, while he (and his side) 
may retire such distance toward his own goal as he 
sees fit, and then make a punt or a drop, or give the 
ball to some one of his own side to place the ball for 
a place kick. Here again, as at kick-off, when taking 
the free kick, he must make an actual kick of at least 
ten yards, unless the ball is stopped by the opponents. 
His own men must be behind the ball when he kicks 
it, or be adjudged ofif-side. 

Whenever the ball goes across the side boundary 
line of the field, it is said to go "into touch," or out of 
bounds, and it must be at once brought back to the 
point where it crossed the line, and then put in play 
by some member of the side which carried it out, or 
first secured possession of it after it went out. The 
methods of putting it in play are as follows : To touch 
it in at right angles to the touch-line, and then kick 
it at least ten yards, or most commonly, walk into the 
field and make an ordinary scrimmage of it, the same 
as after a down. In this latter case, the player who 
intends walking in with it must, before stepping into 
the field, declare how many paces he will walk in, in 
order that the opponents may know where the ball 
will be put in play. He must walk in at least five 
and not more than fifteen yards. We will suppose 
that the ball, by a succession of these plays, runs, 
kicks, downs, fair catches, etc., has advanced toward 
one or the other of the goals, until it is within kicking 

225 



sports and Games 

distance of the goal posts. The question will now 
arise in the mind of the captain of the attacking side 
as to whether his best plan of operations will be to try 
a drop kick at the goal, or to continue the running 
attempts, in the hope of carrying the ball across the 
goal line, for this latter play will count his side a 
touchdown, and entitle them to a try-at-goal. On the 
other hand, upon any first down when inside the 
twenty-five-yard line, if he try a drop kick and fail 
to score, the ball can be brought out, not for a twenty- 
five-yard line kick-out, but only a ten-yard one ; that 
is, his side can line up at ten yards, so that the de- 
fenders of the goal are actually forced to kick out 
from almost within their own goal. In deciding, 
therefore, whether to try a drop kick or continue the 
running attempts, he should reflect upon this and also 
upon the value of the scores. The touchdown itself 
will count 5 points, even if he afterward fail to con- 
vert it into a goal, by sending the ball over the bar and 
between the posts, while, if he succeed in converting 
it, the touchdown and goal together count 6 points. A 
drop kick, if successful, counts 5 points, but is, of 
course, even if attempted, by no means sure of result- 
ing successfully. He must, therefore, carefully con- 
sider all the issues at this point, and it is the handling 
of those problems that shows his quality as a captain. 
If he elects to continue his running attempts, and 
eventually carries the ball across the line, he secures 
a touchdown at the spot where the ball is finally held, 

226 



Football 

after being carried over, and any player of his side 
may then bring it out, and when he reaches a suitable 
distance, place the ball for one of his side to kick, the 
opponents, meantime, standing behind their goal line. 
In placing the ball it is held in the hands of the 
placer, close to, but not touching, the ground, and 
then carefully aimed until the direction is proper. 
Then, at a signal from the kicker that it is right, it is 
placed upon the ground, still steadied by the hand 
or finger of the placer, and instantly kicked by the 
place kicker. The reason for this keeping it off the 
ground until the last instant is that the opponents can 
charge forward as soon as the ball touches the ground, 
and hence would surely stop the kick if much time in- 
tervened. If the ball goes over the goal, it scores as 
above indicated, and the opponents then take it to the 
middle of the field for kick-off again, the same as at 
the commencement of the match. The ball is also 
taken to the centre of the field if the goal be missed 
after a touchdown, although formerly the opponents 
could then bring it out only to the twenty-five-yard 
line. 

There is one other issue to be considered at this 
point, and that is, if the ball be in possession of the de- 
fenders of the goal, or if it fall into their hands when 
thus close to their own goal. Of course, they will 
naturally endeavor, by running or kicking, to, if pos- 
sible, free themselves from the unpleasant situation 
that menaces them. Sometimes, however, this be- 

227 



sports and Games 

comes impossible, and there is a provision in the rules 
which gives them an opportunity of relief, at a sacri- 
fice, it is true, but scoring less against them than if 
their opponents should regain possession of the ball 
and make a touchdown or a goal. A playemiay at 
any time kick, pass or carry the ball across his own 
goal line, and there touch it down for safety. This, 
while it scores two points for his opponents, gives his 
side the privilege of bringing the ball out to the 
twenty-five-yard line, except as noted above, and then 
taking a kick-out, performed like kick-off or any 
other free kick, but it can be a drop kick, a place-kick 
or a punt. 

The succession of plays continues for thirty-five 
minutes in a regular match. Then intervenes a ten- 
minute intermission, after which the side which did 
not have the kick-off at the commencement of the 
match has possession of the ball for the kick-off for a 
second thirty-five minutes. The result of the match 
is determined by the number of points scored during 
the two halves, a goal from a touchdown yielding 6 
points, one from the field — that is, without the aid of 
a touchdown — 5 points ; a touchdown from which no 
goal is kicked giving 5 points, and a safety counting 
2 points for the opponents. In practice it is usual 
to have the two periods of play considerably shorter 
than thirty-five minutes, generally not over twenty or 
thirty. 



228 



BASEBALL 

O ASEBALL has long been recognized as the Na- 
^^ tional game of America, and although for a 
time it has fallen under a cloud of disrepute, owing to 
unseemly bickering in the professional ranks, it is still 
immensely popular throughout the country at schools 
and colleges. Football has, in a measure, dwarfed 
the recognition of baseball, but this has been more 
because football has a shorter season, and there being 
fewer games draws much larger crowds. But it is a 
fact that the American boy looks upon baseball much 
as the English boy does upon cricket. Baseball, if 
one assumes that any game played with bat and ball 
should be put under that head, dates back into early 
antiquity, but baseball as it is now commonly rec- 
ognized is something over fifty years old. In its early 
days it went through a bad period, owing to dishon- 
esty in the sport, and the betting and selling evils, 
which, however, were in a measure corrected by a 
general convention held in Philadelphia the end of 
the year 1867. From that time on until a few years 
ago baseball has steadily progressed in interest and 
quality, save at one time when the discord in the pro- 
fessional ranks led to the establishment of two war- 
ring factions, one principally made up of players, 

229 



Sports and Games 

called the Brotherhood, and the other of the man- 
agers, called the National League. The National 
League was organized in 1876, and in 1881 the 
American Association was organized, and these two 
have kept fair pace in the management of the game. 

Baseball may be played on any level field, but the 
sides should be at least one hundred yards square. 
More is advisable if it can be obtained. Upon this 
space is marked out a diamond with the sides meas- 
uring each ninety feet, and placed so that one corner 
is distant more than thirty yards or so from the end 
of the field. At this corner of the diamond is placed 
a white plate a foot square sunk level with the 
ground, and designated the "home plate." Canvas 
bags are placed at each of the three corners, these 
bags being some fifteen inches square and called, be- 
ginning at the right as one looks into the field from 
the home plate, first, second and third bases, re- 
spectively. The lines from the home base to the first 
base and from the home base to third base are pro- 
longed out into the field and are called "foul lines." 

A baseball game is played by two sides, each side 
having nine men. One of these sides takes its turn at 
the bat while the other side is in the field endeavoring 
under certain rules to put out the side at the bat. 
Each side has nine turns at the bat, and by a turn is 
meant that that side continues batting until three 
men have been put out. The men in the field take up 
their position, seven of them in the form of two semi- 

230 



Baseball 

circles facing the home plate. The radii of these 
semicircles being approximately thirty yards and 
sixty yards. Forming the arc with the lesser radius 
are the four in-fielders, namely, first baseman, second 
baseman, short-stop, and third baseman. The other 
circle is composed of the out-fielders, and these are 
called right, centre, and left fielders. Inside the dia- 
mond and in front of the home plate some sixty feet 
in a straight line is what is called the pitcher's posi- 
tion, where the pitcher stands when delivering the 
ball to the batsman. The catcher's position, not fixed 
by law but which he occupies by preference, is close 
behind the batsman or back say some seventy-five 
feet. In assuming the latter position, which he does 
when no men are on the bases and there is no need 
of getting the ball quickly, he merely throws the ball 
back to the pitcher after it has passed the batsman. 
The men at the bat take their turn in regular order, 
and continue as stated above until three of them have 
been put out by the opponents. This is a signal for 
the retirement of the batsman to the field, and the 
others come in to take their turn at the bat. The bats- 
man must stand within certain lines when striking at 
the ball. 

He becomes a "base runner" as soon as he has 
made a fair hit, that is, batted the ball so that it falls 
in front of the foul lines or when he has had three 
strikes, which is three fair chances to hit the ball, or 
when the pitcher has pitched four balls, none of 

231 



sports and Games 

which have been struck at by the batter or have 
passed over the plate at the proper height. In this 
case he is entitled to take first base without being put 
out. In the other cases he must run for it, and he is 
only safe when he has touched one of the bases, which 
he must take in regular sequence, first, second, third 
and home. The completion of this circuit of the 
bases and crossing the home plate without being put 
out scores a run for his side. The number of runs 
thus scored in nine innings decides the winner or 
loser of the match. A batter is out if he hits the ball 
and the ball is caught by an opponent before touch- 
ing the ground. A base runner is out if after he has 
made a fair hit the ball be caught by an opponent be- 
fore touching the ground, or, after touching the 
ground, be thereafter held by a fielder, any part of 
whose person is touching the first base before the run- 
ner succeeded in reaching that base. Also, if after 
three strikes the ball be caught before it reaches the 
ground, or after touching the ground, be held by the 
first baseman as above described. Also, he is out if 
he is touched by the ball in the hands of a fielder 
at any time during the circuit of the bases, when 
he is not touching the base which he may legally 
occupy. 

The officials of the game are usually an umpire 
and two scorers. Sometimes there are two umpires. 
It is the duty of the umpire to see that all the rules are 
observed, to question good and bad balls, and decide 

232 



Baseball 

upon put-outs and runs. Any other points of dispute 
come under his jurisdiction. 

The university nines, in the winter, are usually 
put to work in the gymnasium, or in what is known 
as a cage, where they can get some moderate setting- 
up exercises as well as practice in stopping ground 
hits, throwing, pitching, catching, and the like. Some 
batting is indulged in in the cage, but until the light 
in these inclosures is better it is a decided question 
of how much value this is. Men who have batted in 
the cage are apt to find themselves rather at sea when 
they get out of doors, even though they were hitting 
the ball well under the roof. Sometimes this indoor 
training is supplemented with outdoor runs, and this 
is not at all a bad idea. If the bottom of the cage, 
whether of earth or of wood, can be rendered suit- 
able for sliding, it is an excellent thing to practice 
men on this before they get out of doors, but unless 
the conditions are favorable so that the men can go at 
it v\^ithout fear of being hurt, it is worse than useless. 
The general object of cage practice should be to teach 
the men form, rather than accuracy, in stopping 
grounders, swinging the bat, and throwing. After 
the winter is over the men start out usually on a 
spring or Easter trip, which comes about the time of 
the Easter vacation, and consists of a trip South, play- 
ing half a dozen games or so. It is advisable to get 
men out a week or so before this trip, or else the re- 
sults are likely to be disastrous. In fact it is by no 



sports and Games 

means unusual for one or more of the pitchers to get 
bad arms through pitching important games early in 
the season. After they return from this trip the nine 
begin to work regularly every afternoon in the field, 
and this usually means practice of an hour or an hour 
and a half of individual fielding, batting, and base- 
sliding, and then at least every other day a half hour 
of good team practice. The greatest weakness in col- 
lege nines is displayed by the men in learning to bat. 
A college nine made up of good hitters almost always 
comes to the top In the championships, no matter if 
their fielding may not be as brilliant as their oppo- 
nents. The average American boy learns to field 
from the time he is out of pinafores, and it is the bat- 
ting side which needs development. Some of the col- 
lege nines have appreciated this, and by that appre- 
ciation have won championships which otherwise 
would have passed away from them. But the tempta- 
tion to captain and coach always is to select the 
clever, brilliant fielder, rather than the man who, 
while not so sensational in the field can always hit the 
ball when necessary. 

Coaching a baseball nine has now become de- 
veloped to such an extent that it is almost an art, and 
a set of players drilled by a good coach through one 
season are usually improved to the extent of at least 
twenty-five per cent. 

The first thing a coach should take up is the bat- 
ting, for there the average college and school nine is 

234 



Baseball 

far weaker in proportion than in any other depart- 
ment of the game. This is probably due, as stated 
above, to the fact that every American boy practices 
fielding from the time he can handle a ball, but his 
practice in batting is very limited. Thus school 
and college players are deficient in that particular 
branch, and when compared with professionals, the 
difference is very marked. Drilling in batting takes 
time and requires close attention. There are several 
ways to conduct it, the most common being to have 
the substitute pitchers pitch to the candidates of the 
nine, letting each man take a turn at batting for a 
certain length of time each day. This is excellent 
in itself, but it should be supplemented by instruction 
from the coach. In the first place, a man ought to 
assume the proper position when at the bat. Indi- 
viduals differ somewhat in this respect, and a proper 
position for one man may not be the proper position 
for another, but there are certain faults which are 
most detrimental to good hitting. The most common 
of these faults is that of drawing away from the 
plate. Sometimes it arises from the batsman having 
been hit with the ball and this makes him nervous, 
and he draws his front foot away from the plate as 
soon as the pitcher starts to deliver the ball. It is 
true that there are some good batsmen who withdraw 
the foot slightly, but as a rule the men who hit best 
are those who, if anything, advance the front foot 
slightly directly toward the pitcher. Anything in 

^35 



sports and Games 

the way of an exaggerated position is bad. That is, 
if a man leans very far forward, or previous to the 
delivery of the pitcher holds his bat in some pecul- 
iar attitude. The best position for the bat is just 
over the shoulder, and a man should make a slight 
motion preparatory to hitting the ball every time the 
pitcher delivers it. In other words, get himself in 
readiness to complete the swing if the ball proves 
good. The hands should not be at the very extreme 
end of the bat, but an inch or two up from the end, 
and beyond that it is by no means a bad plan to 
shorten the bat still more until the man is practically 
sure to hit the average pitcher with fair certainty. 
The batsman should practice what is known as "free 
hitting," namely, hitting any balls that come within 
certain striking distance between his knee and 
shoulder. This prevents his being at the mercy of 
the pitcher who pitches the corners well, for a man 
who is trained to hit nothing except the ball that 
comes exactly over the middle of the plate, and who 
bats more according to the position of the plate than 
according to the ball delivered, is usually an easy 
man for the expert pitcher to fool. 

The batsman should also be taught to bunt the 
ball, that is, to block it with the bat, sending it just in- 
side the diamond, and the practice of placing such 
hits is an excellent supplementary exercise. During 
part of the batting practice also the batsman should 
be taught to start off just as soon as he has hit the 

236 



Baseball 

ball. It is absolutely essential that batsmen get off 
quickly after the ball is hit, for many times it makes 
a difference between a safe hit and an out. 

Practicing in-fielding should be supplemented 
with instructions the same as practice in batting. To 
begin with the battery, the main point nowadays is 
to have enough catchers and pitchers, so that they 
shall neither of them be overworked, especially the 
pitcher. A college pitcher unquestionably is not at 
his best if he has pitched more than two games a 
week, and one really first-class game a week is enough 
if it is advisable to keep him at the top notch. Sub- 
stitutes should be used freely, and the main stay kept 
where he adds enthusiasm and does not run the risk 
of a lame arm. Especial care should be observed 
in the early part of the spring, for at that time men 
are very apt to get strains in pitching hard games, 
and these strains render them useless for the rest of 
the season. 

The catcher does not require the same amount of 
tender attention as the pitcher, but he too should be 
well looked after, and not used too much. Particu- 
larly is it well to see that the catcher does not, in 
practicing his throw to the bases, keep at it too long. 
A few good throws with the men running will keep 
him- in shape and do better than to have him throw 
until his arm is tired. He should practice throwing 
not only to first, but third as well, and particularly 
with the batsman standing in front of him and 

237 



Sports and Games 

striking at pitched balls. The great thing for the 
catcher to study is getting the ball away quickly, and 
without unnecessary motion either of the feet, arms, 
or shoulders. 

The first baseman can be used more freely than 
any other man on the nine, and the aim of his in- 
struction should be to see that he covers as much 
ground as possible in filling his position, and, second, 
that he is able to extend himself in all possible di- 
rections in meeting the balls when thrown to him. 
That is, he should learn to step forward so as to get a 
ball which is liable to come to him on a bad bound, 
or to step back slightly so as to get on a better bound 
a bad throw which is too far away from him to be 
trapped. He should also try reaching from side to 
side, keeping his foot on the base, and in fact, all pos- 
sible motions which will enable him to save wild 
throws. He should, besides all this, have practice in 
putting the ball on a man when receiving it from the 
pitcher. This is important. 

The second baseman's work is in covering ground 
and in catching balls from the catcher and pitcher, 
and putting them on the base-runner. He should be 
encouraged to play a pretty deep field game and 
cover all the ground he can on his side the diamond. 
He should also practice quick throws, for by thus 
playing a deep field he may get what would appar- 
ently be base hits, and by being able to throw them 
quickly to first, put the runner out. 

238 



Baseball 

The short stop's work is similar to that of second 
baseman, except his throw is longer and must be bet- 
ter timed. The short-stop who now plays the most 
up-to-date game plays very deep so that the third 
baseman can take short balls in front of him, and be- 
tween the two they can close up as much as possible 
the gap, and prevent hits coming between third base 
and short. 

The third baseman has one of the most difficult 
positions in the in-field, for he has opportunities to 
get hard hits along the third base line which require 
him to get quickly toward the base and then recover 
himself for his throw to first. This is one of the most 
important points of third baseman's work, and should 
be practiced a great deal. Especial attention should 
also be paid to running in on short hits and get- 
ting over in front of short-stop on high-bounding 
balls. 

In the out-field the practice is simpler, and con- 
sists in catching flies, stopping grounders, and at the 
same time practicing throwing from the out-field to 
home and the various bases. 

The out-fielders, like the catcher, ought not to do 
so much throwing as to get their arms tired, but they 
should have plenty of work in catching batted balls, 
especially of a varying kind, such as high fly balls, 
long-line hits, and grounders which come out from 
over the in-field. 

There is one more important feature of coaching 

239 



sports and Games 

a nine which requires judgment, and that is the base- 
running. It is difficult to practice this save in games, 
but there is an opportunity to do some work by having 
one or two men run the bases while the rest of the 
nine field. The main points about base running are 
everlasting vigilance coupled with plenty of daring 
and judgment as to chances. The basis of all con- 
sists in quick starting, getting away to first sharply 
when the ball is hit, getting a long lead from the 
bases, and being able to recover, reaching with the 
foot or hand for the bag and sliding. This latter 
can be practiced both indoors and outdoors, but a 
man never ought to get sore or lame at it, especially 
within a week of a big match. One of the cardinal 
points for base-runners to remember is always to 
draw the throw of the fielder, if possible, by making 
a pretended start toward the next base, then if the 
throw goes wide, the base-runner will get the base, 
whereas, if it is accurate he has plenty of time to re- 
turn to the base he was occupying. 



240 



TRACK ATHLETICS 

npHE various games and contests which are usually 
^ grouped under the head of track athletics con- 
sist of running, jumping, walking, pole-vaulting, 
weight-throwing, and sometimes bicycling, although 
this sport generally has a separate field to itself. 

Oxford was the first university to organize an 
athletic club, and this was nearly fifty years ago. A 
short time later Cambridge organized one, and af- 
ter a lapse of some fourteen years in which each held 
its own amusements, university contests between the 
two were established. American colleges did not fol- 
low this example until ten years later, and then it 
began as an incident to the boat races at Saratoga, 
and consisted of two or three running races. In 1876 
the Intercollegiate Association of American Athletes 
was organized. The same year the amateur athletic 
championship was established under the auspices of 
the New York Athletic Club. 

Much has been done to foster these sports, the 
stimulus of contest has not been wanting, and there 
has been a steadily growing increase of interest, and 
a constantly improving set of performances. 

The track upon which the running races are 

241 



Sports and Games 

brought off in America, and in the principal grounds 
in England, is made of cinders, or to be more correct, 
it is made up of layers consisting of some four inches 
of rough ashes, screened from the coarse lumps, 
raked and levelled, and covered with a couple of 
inches of loam, from which all of the smaller stones 
have been taken out. This basis is then rolled and 
watered for a period of some weeks or even months. 
Then a final layer of cinders is placed on top of this. 
This layer of cinders should thoroughly cover the 
loam, and should be kept raked and rolled. The 
most approved tracks have straight sides with the 
ends moderately curved either circular, elliptical, or 
parabolic, and the best are the quarter mile tracks, 
the distance being measured just eighteen inches from 
the inner edge. 

The officials of a track meeting are referee, with 
two or more assistants called clerks, the starter, three 
judges, and at the finish three judges of field events, 
three time-keepers, a clerk of the course, and other 
assistants, timers, and measurers, as well as a judge of 
walking and bicycling if those events are on the pro- 
gramme. 

The principal games of a regular meeting con- 
sist of loo-yard run, 220-yard run, 440 or quarter- 
mile, 880 or half-mile, a mile, and in America a two- 
mile, which in England has been more commonly a 
three-mile event. Then there are two hurdle races 
in American meetings, one of 120 yards, over ten 

242 



Track Athletics 

hurdles three feet six inches high, and another of 
220 yards, over hurdles a foot lower. 

The field events are putting the shot, a sixteen- 
pound weight, throwing the hammer, a sixteen-pound 
weight with a wire handle, pole-vaulting, and broad 
jumping. Discus-throwing has also been added, and 
relay races, that is races where for instance in a mile 
each one of four men runs a quarter, touches his suc- 
cessor, who then bounds off and runs his portion of 
the distance. 

Men are generally grouped for training purposes 
into long-distance runners, middle-distance runners, 
sprinters — that is men who run a short distance — 
jumpers, pole-vaulters, and weight-throwers. It is a 
usual custom with long-distance runners to have for 
practice cross-country running during the winter 
once or twice a week, that is, running out through the 
country three or four miles, and perhaps later on as 
the season opens, taking a short dash to quicken them 
up, but, as a rule, doing a good deal of work in the 
early part of the season off the regular track. They 
are also educated to judge something of pace, and tell 
whether they are running a quarter-mile in fifty-five 
or sixty-five seconds. Once in a while, and at periods 
well separated, the distance runner is occasionally 
put through his full distance, but great care is taken 
not to do this too often, as it is likely to take the life 
out of the man, and leave him with less dash and de- 
termination for the actual contest. 

243 



sports and Games 

The sprinters do some work on a winter track, 
that is, where one is available, their practice mainly 
consists of starting and getting off their marks 
quickly, getting up into their stride immediately, and 
especial care is taken to prevent their doing too much 
work. Starting on turf is then used to relieve the 
monotony of daily starting on cinders. 

Men who are going in for the jumps, and the pole 
men, before the season opens get long walks and 
dashes to get into good condition. A little later their 
particular practice is sprinting and getting take-offs, 
that is, running up to the mark from which they 
jump, which is usually a joist sunk level with the 
earth, and they become so accustomed to the joist and 
its position as to be able to strike it promptly, and get 
the full force in their spring. 

Sprinting is particularly necessary for the jumper, 
for the faster he is going at the time of his take-off, 
the greater will be his distance. 

The men who are to throw the weights practice 
through the winter with chest weights and pulleys, 
and sometimes with dumb-bells, and they also have a 
canvas-covered weight which it is possible to throw 
indoors. 

Hurdlers get much the same kind of work as the 
sprinters for speed, but also practice most assidu- 
ously, getting a certain number of strides, now gen- 
erally recognized to be three between the hurdles. 

In international meetings only the first place 

244 



Track Athletics 

counts, but in almost all the other meetings in 
America, second and third, and sometimes fourth, 
are counted. This makes it advisable in arranging a 
track team to develop material to the greatest possi- 
ble extent, for it will often happen that a team may 
Vv^in the majority of the first places and then be de- 
feated by a team with more average second-rate per- 
formers. 



245 

Vol. 14 — 9 



SWIMMING 

T^HE pupil should commence with the leg move- 
*• ment by taking hold of the steps or bar of the 
bath, supposing it be a bath in which the pupil be- 
gins his lessons, with one hand level with the surface 
and place the other hand against the side or steps, 
some eighteen inches below the surface. In this man- 
ner the pupil readily controls his body. Stretch out 
the body horizontally to its fullest extent near the 
surface of the water, and keep the legs closed, toes 
turned outward, back hollowed and the head turned 
back. 

These points having been carefully noted, the leg 
movement should be proceeded with as follows: 

(i) Turn the toes outward to the right and left, 
respectively, with the heels nearly touching; draw 
up the feet gently toward the body somewhat above 
the level of the back, and as they near the body sep- 
arate the feet a few inches. When drawn up, the 
soles of the feet should be at right angles to the sur- 
face of the water and just below the surface, while 
the knees should be turned outward to the right and 
left, and not drawn up too much under the body. 

(2) To develop the next movement the legs must 
be smartly kicked in the outward direction to their 
widest extent without straining the thighs. 

246 



Swimming 

(3) As soon as the legs have been straightened, 
continue the stroke without interruption by closing 
the legs with vigor until they nearly touch each other 
in line with the body — here is where the toes are 
turned downward, slashing the water with the soles 
of the feet — preparatory to bringing them up into the 
first position. 

As regards the arm movements, some divergence 
of opinion exists as to the correct position in which the 
hands should be held. In our view, it is essential that 
the hands should be kept flat with the palms down- 
ward during the recovery, as this assists in a great 
measure in sustaining the body on the surface, and 
also prevents the friction which would naturally arise 
if the hands from the wrists should be dropped so as 
to present the back of the hand to the line of progres- 
sion. As far as the holding of the hands flat at the 
first position is concerned, it is immaterial at the start, 
but as soon as the body is in motion, the keeping of 
the hands flat adds directly to progression. It may 
seem but a slight matter, but it is these small details, 
carefully studied, which tend to accelerate the speed 
of swimmers. 

In order to make our instruction perfectly clear 
we shall divide the arm movement into three actions, 
as in the leg stroke; the pupil is supposed to be 
straightened: 

(i) Turn the palms of the hands slightly out- 
ward and take a backward sweeping stroke, continu- 

247 



Sports and Games 

ing the pressure until the hands and arms are brought 
nearly to a right angle with the body in line with the 
shoulder. Then gently close the arms to the chest. 
As soon as the pressure of the backward sweeping 
stroke ceases, the hands should be immediately flat- 
tened. 

(2) Draw the elbows nearly to the side, at the 
same time bringing the forearm and hands up to the 
front of the chest with the palms of the hands next 
the chest and near the surface of the water. The fin- 
gers should be extended and closed. 

(3) Push the hands forward directly in front of 
you until the arms are at their full extent, still keep- 
ing the hands about two or three inches from the sur- 
face, and pause slightly before repeating the first 
movement, giving the body a chance to appreciate 
the power applied by the legs. 

THE OVER-HAND SIDE-STROKE 
In this stroke, the one used by all the fast men in 
England, Australia, and this country, it is a matter 
of choice on which side the body is turned. J. H. 
Tyers, W. Evans, and J. Nuttal swim on the right 
side while Kenny swims on the opposite side. 

Swimming with the left side toward the surface 
does not impede the action of the heart and the organs 
of digestion are kept free from pressure. For the 
purpose of clear description it will be best to imagine 
the swimmer is in the water lying on the right side. 

248 



Swimming 

At the start, the lower arm should be pulled down- 
ward toward the hips, in a plane perpendicular to 
the surface, the fingers being kept close and the 
hand flat, so as to present a large surface to the water. 
When this stroke is finished, the hand should be 
turned quickly, palm upward, so that together with 
the lower part of the arm it cuts the water sidewise, 
the arm being almost bent double. Then, as it is 
shot forward, the hand is gradually turned from 
palm downward, until, when it arrives at its position 
in front of the head, and almost at the surface, it is 
ready for the next stroke. The recovery ought to be 
effected much more quickly than the "pull," as in 
the former the water practically only offers resistance 
to the upper part of the arm; but during the down 
stroke the whole arm and hand have to be dragged 
through it. 

The upper or left-arm stroke is started when the 
downward stroke of the under or right arm is fin- 
ished. It begins about half a foot in front of the 
face. The arm is slightly bent to work clear of the 
chest, the palm and thumb pointing downward. The 
pull in most cases is taken with the arm bent a little 
as it enters the water, but in others, the hand is 
brought under the chest, and then, with the arm bent 
at right angles, swept back close to the body, the arm 
gradually straightening as it leaves the water. This 
stroke should not be made too long, either at the be- 
ginning or at the finish, as the efifect of the power ap- 

249 



Sports and Games 

plied is greater when the hand is opposite the 
shoulder. At the end of the pull, that is, when the 
hand is opposite the waist, it should be brought 
smartly out of the water, and carried quickly forward 
through the air to recommence its work. In the re- 
covery the fingers are kept near but not touching the 
surface of the water. As the upper arm enters the 
water the legs should begin to open for the leg stroke. 
They should be in the position for beginning the kick 
when the hand is about six inches from the knee, and 
the kick should be completed and the legs straight- 
ened just as the under arm is half through its work — 
just as the right hand is pointing toward the bottom. 
With this movement, called the "Alternate Move- 
ment," the left hand appears to slap the left knee just 
as the kick is started, but in reality never comes closer 
than three inches. 

The leg movement is described as follows: from 
the straightened position, the legs are drawn up close 
to each other and near the body; they are opened and 
brought together again simultaneously, the left or 
upper leg being kicked out forward as in running, 
the knee straightened and the power applied with the 
back of the calf and sole of the foot. The right or 
lower leg is bent almost double, until the heel nearly 
touches the thigh, the tendon Achilles acting as a cut- 
water, and the foot swinging as on a hinge, so that 
there is really very little resistance. The sweep is 
then made simultaneously with the upper leg, the 

250 



Swimming 

power in this case coming from the entire front of 
the leg from the toe to the knee. In the effective part 
of the stroke the left foot is straightened with a stamp 
at the same time that the right leg meets it with a vi- 
cious kick. As the legs come together, the wash from 
the upper meets the swirl from the lower, and helps 
considerably to send the body forward. 

In trying to perfect himself in this stroke, the be- 
ginner will find that the position of the head requires 
great attention. He must be able to breathe correctly 
and at the proper time. About forty-five strokes are 
taken to the minute for a hundred yard swim, and at 
each stroke a breath is taken as the upper arm is in 
the recovery. The exhalation must be going on all 
the remaining time, the waste air being forced out the 
nostrils. 

THE ''TRUDGEON'" STROKE 

Many forms of this stroke are adopted by sprint 
swimmers and water polo players. It is a very fa- 
tiguing method of progression, and rarely used for 
distances over one hundred yards; but for short races 
it is constantly preferred in this country to the over- 
hand stroke just described. 

Why the United States swimmers seem partial to 
this stroke I do not know, when Tyers, Nuttal and 
Kenny all use the over-hand side-stroke for their 
spurts as well as longer races. It was first brought 
into notice in England, by J. Trudgeon, who ac- 

251 



sports and Games 

quired his knowledge in the rivers of South America. 
Many of the swimmers who copied Trudgeon after- 
ward found that it was less laborious and equally as 
fast to use a double over-arm stroke, as instead of the 
chest being raised clear out of the water, they were 
able to keep the body more horizontal and thus use the 
power which would otherwise be required to raise 
the chest from water for propulsion. The leg kick 
is the same as in the ordinary over-hand stroke. When 
the kick is taken, the body is on its side, and as the 
recovery of the legs is being made, one arm is making 
a positive stroke while the other is being brought into 
position out of the water and the body turns on the 
breast. Meanwhile, the upper hand has gone for- 
ward; as it is being pulled through the water and the 
leg kick taken, it turns on to the side again. When 
swimming with the polo ball, the body is kept on the 
breast all the time as in the original style. 

SWIMMING ON THE BACK 

The great importance of back swimming nas been 
little recognized by swimmers. Very great attention 
is paid to the faster methods of progression, cham- 
pionships and ordinary races for every conceivable 
distance having been promoted; back swimming, 
however, the knowledge of which is of primary im- 
portance in saving life, has been utterly neglected. 
Fast side-stroke swimming is of small value in saving 
life unless other methods of progression are known to 

252 



Swimming 

the swimmer, and it often happens that the purely 
speed swimmer has had either to release his hold of 
a drowning person or else to call for help himself. 

Back swimming can be easily acquired by any 
person able to swim on the breast, for the movements 
are almost identical. 

The best method of learning back swimming it to 
stand in water which reaches up to the waist, then 
spread the arms out on a level with the shoulder, fall 
gently backward on to the water, and as the legs 
leave the bottom, take a slight spring so as to impart 
impetus to the body. In the first stroke the arms 
should be brought round almost to the side, the hands 
being kept in such a position that the thumbs are 
nearest the surface, and at the same time the leg- 
stroke should be carried out in exactly the same man- 
ner as in breast-stroke swimming. In bringing the 
arms back to first position, the hands should be turned 
palm downward, so as to offer less resistance. The 
more perfect form of method is to make a sculling 
motion with the arms, the hands being brought to- 
ward the sides of the body during the effective por- 
tion of the leg-kick, and pushed outward when the 
legs are being got ready for the next kick. The tip of 
each hand describes a sort of double loop. 

DIVING, PLUNGING, AND FLOATING 

The best method of learning to dive is to stand on 
the side of a bath or bank, then stoop down until the 

'^S3 



Sports and Games 

body is nearly double, stretch out the arms in front 
of the head, sink the head between them, and grad- 
ually tumble over into the water. The great diffi- 
culty is to make the first plunge. Once this is accom- 
plished, proficiency will soon come with practice. 
Most beginners are nervous, and afraid to enter head 
first. Their trials are often amusing. They will start 
for a dive, but change it into a jump; or they will 
keep their head back and arms up, thus coming down 
on the water in grand style, with plenty of noise and 
splash. A very good plan with a beginner who is 
learning to dive, is to get two other swimmers to hold 
a towel stretched in front of him. This gives him an 
idea as to the throwing up of the legs, and as he goes 
over if the legs are not thrown up, the confederates 
should raise the towel so as to force the learner to 
make a clean dive. At his next attempt, he will prob- 
ably get his legs up properly. A spring diving-board 
is generally used for running headers. A run of from 
twenty to thirty feet is made; when the end of the 
diving-board is neared, a jump is taken, and the body 
shoots up into the air. Then the experience gained 
in low diving is brought into service, the body is 
straightened and declined toward the water. When 
properly done, this style of diving is very graceful. 
It creates no splash, and the body enters the water 
"cleanly." 

The plunger should stand erect on his starting 
base with the toes slightly overlapping the edge of 

254 



Swimming 

the bath and the ball of the foot resting firmly upon 
the diving base. The knees should be kept together. 
Then the arms should be swung slowly backward 
and forward and a few short respirations taken, the 
heels being raised from the ground at each forward 
swing of the arms. The inhalation should be short 
and the expiration long. As soon as the lungs are 
Vv^ell cleared, a spring forward is made, and a deep 
inspiration is taken. As the feet leave the diving base 
the hands are thrown above the head in line with the 
body, which in the spring forward should be directed 
so as to enter the water as far as possible from the 
starting point. The actual angle to be observed can 
only be arrived at by continual practice, but at no 
time should the body be more than two feet or two 
feet six inches below the surface of the water. When 
the body has once entered the water, the palms of 
the hands should be flat, the fingers kept perfectly 
straight, and thumbs locked. The feet should be 
turned well back, with the soles as nearly as possible 
facing upward. At the same time the body must be 
kept rigid in as straight a line as possible, and per- 
fectly motionless. If these directions be observed, the 
body will move from twenty to thirty feet under the 
water, then gradually rise to the surface and float on- 
ward in a straight line; the plunge terminating when 
the swimmer finds the air in the lungs exhausted, and 
is thereby compelled to raise his face. When the 
body is rising to the surface after the dive, care should 



Sports and Games 

be taken that the head and arms do not come too far 
out but remain on the surface; otherwise the impetus 
gained by the dive will be greatly lessened, and the 
distance of the plunge curtailed. 

In order to "hang on," or otherwise expend to the 
greatest advantage the progressive power which has 
been gained from the dive, it is essentially important 
that the management of the breath should be made 
the subject of careful study, as it is the principal diffi- 
culty with which the plunger has to contend. There 
is, of course, a great strain on the respiratory organs 
when a long plunge is being taken, and it will there- 
fore be evident that immediately before the dive, the 
lungs should be fully inflated with pure air, so as to 
allow the plunger to enter the water under conditions 
which will enable him to make the longest stay, with 
his mouth and nostrils below the surface, without un- 
due strain. 

In order to effect a good plunge, many of those 
who take part in competitions "hang on" an inordi- 
nate tim.e, until the respiratory centre becomes af- 
fected, and the head painful. Two or three instances 
have come under my own personal observation of 
plungers sinking, face downward, in a state of in- 
sensibility; but such cases are rare, as the face being 
close to the surface, can be quickly raised when the 
feeling of strain becomes noticeable. It will, how- 
ever, be recognized that in deep water the danger 
is one that should not be overlooked, and when such 

•2^6 



Swimming 

competitions are in progress both the plungers and 
officials should be on the alert for possible accidents. 

FLOATING 

To a swimmer who really loves the art as a pas- 
time, there is nothing so enjoyable as being able to 
float in open sea water. When the breakers are run- 
ning high the body is at one moment poised on the 
top of a wave, while the eyes rapidly scan the valley 
of water beneath and the incoming wave beyond; the 
next moment the body is sunk in the valley with a 
high mountain on either side, and the blue sky above. 

The essential in floating is plenty of self-confi- 
dence. If a man be possessed of this, it will not take 
him very long to master the art. It is the nervous and 
impatient who experience so much difficulty. Non- 
success, even after continued practice, should not be 
allowed to act as a deterrent, but all the precept in 
Christendom is often unavailable with the swimmer 
"who could float if his legs would not sink." 

When beginning the attempt to learn, the mouth 
should be kept closed, as, when the body comes to a 
horizontal position on the surface, the water will in 
all probability ripple over the face before the arms 
are placed accurately beyond the head, and, if the 
mouth be open, the swimmer forgets all about the 
need for balancing himself, gasps at the inrush of 
water, lets his legs sink, and then has to begin again. 
One of the best methods is to stand on the bottom of 

257 



Sports and Games 

the bath, stretch the arms out perpendicularly over 
the head, and gradually incline the body backward 
until the shoulders are under water, all this time 
keeping the legs rigid and the body and arms as far as 
possible in the same straight line with the legs. The 
lungs should then be well filled, and a straight push 
ofif from the bottom taken. Every movement must 
be made slowly and carefully; there must be no jerk- 
ing, or failure will inevitably result. As the legs rise 
to the surface they should be extended, and, with the 
arms kept perfectly rigid. The palms of the hands 
should face upward; the arms themselves should 
be widened apart if necessary, so as to cover a greater 
surface of the water, the head should be kept v/ell 
back. If the body sink for a moment, the limbs 
should be kept rigid, and the breath held. The 
mouth and nose, toes and chest, will then rise above 
the surface, and the swimmer will realize that he is 
floating. The body will sink slightly at each expira- 
tion, will rise at each inspiration. 



258 



s 



SQUASH BALL 

QUASH BALL is one of the more recent devel- 
opments of the general lawn tennis family. It 
appears that Fives originated by playing a tennis ball 
with the hand against a wall on lines laid out for a 
tennis court. This game is still used extensively. 
Later on a wooden bat was used, and the game was 
called Bat Fives. Subsequent evolution was in the de- 
velopment of a racket like a tennis racket, excepting 
that it was lighter, weighing between nine and ten 
ounces. Eventually side-walls, back-wall and a ceil- 
ing were added, making an inclosed court. In this 
form it was called Rackets. Squash Ball is played in 
a Racket Court, and is really a variation of that game. 
It is growing rapidly in popularity, as courts are be- 
ing built in our leading athletic clubs and colleges. 
There are a number of different ways of playing 
and scoring squash. 

DEFINITIONS 
Ace: A point won and scored. 
Court: The whole building in which the game is 
played. One may speak of the right court or of the 
left court. 

Service Line: A line painted on the front wall 
eight feet from the floor. 

259 



sports and Games 



Tell-Tale : A line painted on the front wall two 
feet two inches from the floor. 

Dividing Line: The line on the floor dividing the 
court into two equal spaces. 

Cross Court Line: A line across the court twenty- 
three feet from the back wall. 

Hand In : The player who has the right of serving 
the ball. 

Hand Out: He who has to receive the service. 

In Play: The ball is in play after being served 
until it has touched the floor twice, or the player, or 
the board, or has gone out of court. 

Out of Court: A ball is out of court when it 
touches the roof, posts, cushions, or is driven into the 
gallery. 

The following Rules of Squash are already in 
quite general use in this country. They are as pub- 
lished by T. H. Prosser & Sons, London. 

RULES OF THE GAME 

1. The game to be 21 up. At 19 all, the out play- 
ers may set it to 5 ; and at 20 all, to 3, provided this 
be done before another ball is struck. 

2. The going in first, whether odds be given or 
not, to be decided by spin; but one hand only is then 
to be taken. 

3. The ball to be served alternately right and left, 
beginning whichever side the server pleases. 

4. In serving, the server must have one foot in the 

260 



Squash Ball 



space marked off for that purpose. The out player 
to whom he serves may stand where he pleases, but 
his partner, and the server's partner must both stand 
behind the server till the ball is served. 

5. The ball must be served above, and not touch- 
ing the line on the front wall, and it must strike the 
floor before it bounds, within and not touching the 
lines inclosing the court on the side opposite to that 
in which the server stands. 

6. A ball served below the line or to the wrong 
side is a fault, but it may be taken, and then the ace 
must be played out and counts. 

7. In serving, if the ball strikes anywhere before 
it reaches the front wall, or if it touch the roof or the 
gallery, it is a hand out. 

8. In serving, if a ball touch the server or his part- 
ner before it has bounded twice it is a hand out, 
whether it was properly served or not. 

9. Two consecutive faults put a hand out. 

10. It is a fault: 

(a) If the server is not in his proper place. 
{b) If the ball is not served over the line, 
(c) If it does not fall in the proper court. 
The out player may take a fault if he pleases, but 
if he fails in putting the ball up, it counts against him. 

11. An out player may not take a ball served to 
his partner. 

12. The out players may change their courts once 
only in each game. 

261 



sports and Games 

13. If a player designedly stop a ball before the 
second bound, it counts against him. 

14. If a ball hit the striker's adversary above or 
on the knee, it is a let; if below the knee, or if it hits 
the striker's partner or himself, it counts against the 
striker. 

15. Till a ball has been touched, or has bounded 
twice, the player or his partner may strike at it as 
often as they please. 

16. Every player should get out of the way as 
much as possible. If he can not, the Marker is to de- 
cide if it is a let or not. 

17. After the service, a ball going out of the 
court, or hitting the roof or the gallery, in returning 
from the front wall, or if it hit the roof before reach- 
ing the front wall, counts against the striker. 

18. The Marker's decision is final; but if he has 
any doubts he should ask advice, and if he can not de- 
cide positively, the ace is to be played over again. 

Different styles of play and players can be suited 
by some one of the varieties of the game described in 
the following rules of the game of squash. 

RULES FOR THE SINGLE GAME OF SQUASH 

IN A FOUR- WALLED OR THREE- WALLED COURT 

There are several sets of rules of squash. The fol- 
lowing rules are common to all the sets : 

I. The game is played with a ball, usually of 

262 



Squash Ball 

India rubber, and a racket, usually strung with gut. 
Hand-fives may be played with a hand-ball, and the 
naked or gloved hands. 

2. The spin of the racket, or of a coin, gives the 
winner the choice of serving or not serving. 

3. The serving player (A) must hit the ball di- 
rect on to the front-wall, above the service line. If he 
fails to do so, /'. £•., if he hits the ball on to the side- 
wall first, or below the service-line, one fault is 
scored. Two faults in succession count as if A had 
lost the rally. 

A^ B. — (i) Some rules count one single fault in 
this way. (ii) Some rules allow B to return the first 
serve if he likes. If he tries to do so, then no fault 
is scored. 

4. The second player (B) must return the ball 
on to the front wall, above the tell-tale, before the 
ball has bounced twice. 

5. The players then continue to return the ball al- 
ternately. Whichever player first fails to hit the ball 
above the tell-tale before the ball has bounced twice, 
or whichever player hits the ball on to himself before 
it has bounced twice, loses the rally. 

6. A rally shall also be lost by the player who hits 
the ball out of court, i. e., above the upper boundary 
line of the front wall or of either side wall or of the 
back wall. 

A^. B. — (a) If there is a low back wall, a ball that 
hits above it after bouncing once is scored as a "let" 

263 



sports and Games 

(see below) according to some rules. If there is no 
back-wall, then a ball which goes beyond the back- 
line is "out of court," as in lawn tennis. 

{b) A ball hit on to a line counts as "not up," or 
as "out," /. e., it counts against the striker. 

LETS 

7. If one player (A or B) hits on to the other 
player (B or A) a ball which would otherwise have 
gone "up," i. e., above the tell-tale and not out of 
court, then the rally shall be played over again. 

8. If one player (say A) obstructs the other 
player, then this other player (B) may claim a "let," 
/. e., may claim to play the rally over again, provided 
that he (B) has not tried to take the ball. If he has 
tried it, then, except in very extreme cases — B may 
not claim a "let." 

A^. B. — Much is left to the honor of the players; 
they are not expected to obstruct on purpose, or to 
claim "lets" too freely. 

We now come to the varieties in the rules. They 
depend partly on the serving and partly on the way 
of counting the winning of a rally. 

I. First or Rackets' Scoring 

The game is won by whoever first scores 15 aces. 

"Setting" — At 13-all, the loser of the previous 
point may choose whether he will play the game 
straight on {e. g., 14-13), or whether he will "set 3", 

264 



Squash Ball 




ffiffiffi 



265 



Sports and Games 

or "set 5." The two latter mean that a new little 
game will be started to decide the large game, the 
new little game being for 3 aces or for 5 aces. 

After 14-all, the loser of the previous point may 
choose whether he will play the game straight on, or 
whether he will "set 3." He is not allowed to "set 5." 

The Match is generally for the best 3 out of 5 
games, unless arranged otherwise. 

Handicaps usually consist of aces, given to the 
weaker player, who has a start, e. g., of 7 aces, be- 
ginning the game at "7-0," or "7-love," instead of 
"0-0," or "love-all." 

Service — A begins serving from whichever side 
of the court he prefers, e. g., hd. (see diagram). 
Each player may choose his side for his iirst service. 

A must have at least one foot behind the cross- 
court line ; the other foot may be on the line or behind 
the line. 

A serves direct on to the front-wall and above the 
service-line, and hence into the opposite side of the 
court [a or c) . His next service, if he serves again 
before he is "put out," will be from a c into h or d. 

(i) In Rackets the service must pitch (first 
bounce) into c or d, the back sections. 

(ii) In Squash the service may often pitch (first 
bounce) into a or h, the front sections. 

Players must arrange beforehand as to which 
method they will adopt, as the difference between (i) 
and (ii) is considerable. 

266 



Squash Ball 

After A has scored, B tries to return the ball, be- 
fore it has bounced twice, above the tell-tale, but not 
on to or above the boundary-lines ; then A tries to re- 
turn it, and so on, till either A or B loses the rally 
(see above). 

If A, the server, wins the rally, then he scores one 
ace ("i-o," or "i-love"). If B, the non-server, wins 
the rally, then he goes in to serve; and if B, the 
server, wins the next rally, then he scores one ace; 
and so on, till one player reaches 15 aces. 

II. Second Scoring, or Rackets' Scoring Re- 

versed 

The rules here are exactly the same, up to where 
A has served, and the first rally is won and lost. 

If A wins it, then A, the server does not score an 
ace — a server can never score an ace — but 'B now 
serves. 

If A wins again, then A scores an ace ("i-o," or 
" I -love"). B goes on serving until he wins a rally; 
then A serves, and B has a chance of scoring an ace. 

III. Third Scoring, or the Equal Services Game 

This scoring was invented by Mr. Eustace H. 
Miles. 

In this way of scoring, every rally which is won 
counts as an ace to the winner. 

A serves two services, one from each side of the 

267 



Sports and Games 
court according to either set of rules. See I, (i) or 

(ii). 

Then B serves two services, similarly; and so on, 
the players serving alternately until one of them has 
scored 15 aces. 

A^. B. — The first server, if Rule I (i) is chosen, 
/. e., if the service is to pitch (first bounce) into one 
of the back sections of the court, should only be al- 
lowed one service. 

IV. Fourth or Lawn Tennis Scoring 

A serves for one game, scoring as in lawn tennis, 
except that it is better to have "vantage-all" and then 
a single point to decide the game, than to have 
"deuce," "vantage," "deuce," "vantage," indefinitely. 

B serves for the next game; and so on, until either 
A or B has scored the set of 6 games. 

If "5 games all" is reached, it may be better to 
play "deuce and vantage games," but to have "van- 
tage-all" if the players score 6 games all, and then to 
let a single game decide the set. 



268 



LAWN HOCKEY 

TTHE game of hockey finds its origin in ancient his- 
^ torjy when the Romans played with a stuffed 
leather ball, and, because of the bent stick used to 
strike the ball, it has sometimes been called Bandy 
Ball. The English people have played in this game 
more than any other nation, and at one time it became 
such a popular sport and was played to such an ex- 
tent, that it became a public nuisance, and a law 
was enacted forbidding the game, but the law was 
soon repealed. A few years ago it was introduced 
into America. 

The field on which the game is played is a little 
smaller than a football field, it being one hundred 
yards long and not more than sixty nor less than fifty 
yards wide. The longer sides are known as "side 
lines," and the shorter sides "goal lines." In the cen- 
tre of each goal line two upright posts shall be placed 
twelve feet apart, with a cross bar seven feet from 
the ground, which shall constitute the goals. The 
ball is an ordinary cricket ball. The stick is curved 
at one end and must be small enough to pass through 
a ring two inches in diameter. There should be 
eleven men on each side, but it may be played by six 

269 



Sports and Games 

or seven. The men take their names from the posi- 
tion they play, viz. : three forwards, five rushes, two 
backs or guards and one goal tend. When there are 
less than eleven men take out first a forward, then two 
rushes, and a guard, and so on. 

Nos. I, 2 and 3 Advance Forwards 

No. 4 Forwards 

Nos. 5, 6 and 7 Forwards 

Nos. 8 and 9 Advance Guards 

No. 10 Guard 

No. II Goal Tend 

At the beginning of the game and after each goal, 
the ball is put in play at the centre of the field, by 
what is known as the "bully," to be played as follows : 
one of each side shall stand facing the side line and 
shall strike the ground on his own side of the ball, 
and the stick of his opponent over the ball alternately 
three times; after which either player may strike the 
ball, and the moment the ball is touched it is in play. 
During this bully the players on either side shall be 
"on side," i. e., between the ball and his own goal line. 

When the ball is put in play the "forwards" rush 
down the field on their opponents' territory, and the 
"rushes," by a system of diagonal passing, advance 
the ball past the rush line of their opponents, and 
endeavor to get the ball into the hands of the "for- 
wards," who should be inside or near the "striking 
circle." The "striking circle" is made by drawing a 
line twelve feet long in front of each goal, parallel to 

270 



Lawn Hockey 

the goal line, and fifteen yards from it. The ends of 
the line to be curved round to the goal lines, using 
each post as the centre of the arc. This circle is the 
only place from which a goal may be scored. The 
forwards now having possession of the ball, all the 
rushes assist to pass the ball through the goal, if pos- 
sible, which, if accomplished, counts for them one 
point. The advance guards should fall back a 
few paces behind the line of scrimmage to return 
the ball, if the opponents get it past the other 
rushes. The guard lies well back, and, as his name 
indicates, his principal duty is to check any as- 
sault made on his goal. He should never advance 
past the centre of the field, and always hold the same 
relative position. He must be a sure hit, and never 
allow the ball to pass him. He should also be able 
to make accurate long hits. It must be remembered 
that no definite place can be assigned each player at 
all times of the game, as the position will vary with 
the strength of the opposing team, or the individual 
members, the speed of the men, etc. ; but each man 
on the team is to hold, as far as possible, his own rela- 
tive position, which will enable the other members 
of his team to pass the ball to him without taking 
time, which is valuable, to locate him. This will 
simplify matters, and team work be made stronger 
and play more efifective. The goal tend stands firm, 
never neglecting the space allotted to him between 
the goal posts, and when the ball is forced to him he 

271 



Sports and Games 

kicks the ball (he being the only person on the team 
allowed to kick the ball), or strikes it, placing it to 
one side so as to prevent the ball from passing the 
goal. In no case when the ball is in the striking cir- 
cle should it be allowed to remain in front of the 
goal; the defenders must use their skill and agility 
and put it off to one side. 

No player is allowed to raise his stick above his 
shoulders at any time when striking at the ball, and 
the stroke must always be from right to left. The 
ball may be stopped by any part of the person, but ad- 
vanced by the stick only (except in case of goal tend) . 
Hooking sticks is allowable when within striking dis- 
tance of the ball. Great skill may be developed in 
hooking sticks, e. g., when an opponent has the ad- 
vantage and is about to have a strong hit, one is often 
able to hook his stick and allow another of his own 
side to take the ball. Play with the back of the stick 
is not allowable. If during any part of the game, the 
ball passes the side line, it must be rolled, not thrown 
back, from the spot where it crossed the line, by one 
of the opposite side to that of the player who last 
touched the ball. It may be rolled any way except 
forward. 

A "free hit" shall be given to opposite side when 
any player shall transgress any of the following rules : 

1. Raise stick above shoulders during stroke. 

2. Kicking ball (except goal tend). 

3. Off-side play, /. e., when a player hits the ball 

272 



Lawn Hockey 

and another player of the same side is nearer his op- 
ponent's goal line than three of his opponents. 

4. Playing with back of stick. 

5. Striking ball other than from right to left. 

6. Pushing, tripping, collaring, kicking, charg- 
ing, or any unnecessary rough play. 

7. Fouling, /. e., crossing a man from left to right 
when he is about to strike the ball. 

On a free hit no player of offending side shall be 
within five yards of spot where hit is made, and the 
striker must not touch the ball again until it has been 
touched by another player. 

When the defending side transgress any of the 
above rules (except Nos. i and 5), inside of the strik- 
ing circle, a "penalty bully" shall be given, at which 
time all players, except the offender and one from the 
other side, shall be outside of striking circle, and the 
two shall bully as at the centre, only no other player 
may interfere until a goal has been scored or the ball 
passes outside of striking circle; in the event of the 
latter, the ball is again In play for all the players. 

Breaking rules Nos. i and 5 by defendants inside 
of striking circle, a "bully" only may be given. 

When the ball passes the goal line outside of goal, 
by the stroke or kick of defendants, a "free hit" shall 
be given from the corner where the side and goal 
lines meet; and, during this hit, all of the defending 
side shall be back of goal line, and attacking side 
outside of striking circle. If the attacking side puts 

273 



sports and Games 

the ball over goal line outside of goal, it shall be a 
"bully" at the twenty-five yard line, to be played same 
as bully at the centre. 

The time of the game shall be two thirty-five 
minute halves, with ten minutes intermission, subject 
to change if both sides are agreed. 



274 



CRICKET 



BATTING 



"P ROM twenty minutes to a half hour's practice at 
-'''' the wicket, three or four times a week, on a well- 
rolled and level piece of turf, from a medium pace- 
bowler, with instructions from a professional (or 
some one well posted on the game) as to when and 
how to make the different hits or plays, is the best 
advice to a beginner. It is of more value to obtain 
practice of this kind than any amount of book study. 
Yet it is necessary to examine into the art of the game 
to get at the foundation and to become acquainted 
with the different attitudes and names of the many 
hits or strokes. 

Position. — When the batsman takes his position at 
the bat he should be in an easy, natural position. Suit 
yourself whether your heels are together or three or 
four inches apart. Take guard from the side of the 
wicket from which the bowler delivers the ball. It 
is best to take middle, but if you find you are likely 
to get your legs before the wicket in the act of play- 
ing the ball, take the middle and leg for guard. The 
safest place for your block hole is three inches from 
the popping crease, and stand with one foot just in- 

275 



Sports and Games 

side of the same crease and about four inches away 
from your block hole. 

Play. — As the bowler starts to bowl, rise slightly. 
Make your position easy, and do not allow yourself 
to be "tied-up" or stifif, but when you play or hit at 
the ball do so with freedom of arms and body. The 
best way to hold your bat is to have your hands half 
way between the bat's shoulder and end of handle, 
with the hands two inches apart. Let the right foot 
act as a pivot in the forward play, forward cut, leg 
hit and leg poke. Always wear leg guards and gloves 
while batting. 

Forward and Back Play. — First learn to defend 
your wicket from the ball by steady and patient play. 
Your hitting powers will come afterward. 

The Forward Play. — It is only by patient prac- 
tice that a batsman can master this play (and it is one 
of the most important) . In playing forward, do so 
with the left elbow out from the body, as well as for- 
ward, getting over the ball. If this is not done you 
are very apt to play with a cross bat. Look out that 
the bowler don't draw you forward on a short pitch 
ball, which is very likely to result in a catch if it 
touches your bat; or cause you to be stumped if you 
should miss it, and have your foot outside the crease. 
See that you reach well on to the pitch of the ball, 
which will kill a shooter or block a ball that twists 
to the leg or ofif stump. 

The Backward Play. — In playing backward, 

276 



1 



Cricket 

judgment must be used in selecting the proper length 
ball to play. Do not allow the bowler to drive you 
back on a ball well pitched up that should be hit. If 
such a ball should shoot or hug the ground, the 
chances are it will bowl you. This play is generally 
made by moving the right foot backward twelve or 
eighteen inches from its stationary position, balancing 
well on that foot. In making the play keep the left 
elbow well out from the body, and don't draw away 
from the ball. This will cause you to play with a 
cross bat. 

The Cut. — The cut is one of the most difficult hits 
to make, and can only be made when a ball rises a lit- 
tle wide of the off bail. Care must be taken to time 
the ball, and not hit too soon or too late, or the result 
will be a catch in the slips. When you see the ball 
about to rise, draw the right foot backward and 
across the wicket. In hitting at the ball make as late 
a stroke as possible, coming down on top of the ball 
from well over the shoulder. The hit is most success- 
fully made by not trying to put all your power in 
the stroke, but by giving the ball a slight hit or touch, 
using freedom of the wrist (very much like snapping 
a whip). 

The Forward Cut. — The forward cut is made by 
placing the left foot forward and across the wicket, 
keeping the right foot stationary. The stroke is made 
from a short 'pitched ball, hit hard forward of point, 
and kept well on the ground. 

Vol. 14 — ig 



Sports and Games 

The Leg Hit. — The leg hit is made by placing the 
left leg well forward in the direction from which the 
ball is coming, and hitting across at it hard with a 
swing of the bat from the shoulder. Be sure the ball 
is well off the leg wicket to prevent your being out 
leg before the wicket, should it hit your leg, and if 
not hit by the bat or does not touch the leg passing 
back of you and clear the wicket. 

The Leg Poke. — Is a very useful and effective hit 
against swift bowling. It is made off a ball that is 
bowled on the legs, and instead of being hit at, is 
gently touched with the bat and sent behind the bats- 
man for one or two runs. In making the play the bat 
should be placed forward of the left leg. 

Caught Out. — If any fielder catches the ball di- 
rect from the striker's bat or hand before it touches 
the ground. 

Run Out. — If the batsman, in making a run, fails 
to reach his ground before the wicket to which he is 
running is put down with the ball by a fielder. 

Leg Before Wicket. — If the batsman stops with 
his leg or other part of his body a bowled ball whose 
course, in the opinion of the umpire, is in a line with 
the wickets, and if not so stopped, would have taken 
the wicket. 

At every ball bowled, therefore, the batsman must 
guard against all these dangers, and avoiding leg be- 
fore wicket, play the ball so that it will not strike the 
wicket and can not be caught. Having hit it away, 

278 



Cricket 

he can make a run, or runs, if he can reach the goal 
before the ball is returned by the fielders and the 
wicket to which he is running is put down. 

HOW TO BOWL 

The art of bowling is brought to perfection 
only by untiring practice. To become a successful 
bowler, one should commence when young, as it re- 
quires steady practice, patience, determination and 
strength. Of course a beginner must have a good eye 
and a love for the game, or he will never make a 
bowler. Some men become natural bowlers with lit- 
tle practice, while others must practice continually. 

There are a few things that a learner should ac- 
quire, which are : To first hold the ball correctly with 
the finger tips on the seam, as a better grip can be ob- 
tained, which will assist greatly in giving a twist to 
the ball — not in the hollow of the hand. Take a short 
run of five or six yards before delivering the ball; 
practice to deliver the ball on either side of the 
wicket; do not bowl hurriedly (unnecessary haste de- 
stroys pitch and directness). All this is of impor- 
tance to young bowlers, and should be remembered. 

It is best for a young bowler to start in by bowling 
a slow or medium pace ball. The art of varying the 
speed and length of the pitch by dropping the ball 
shorter and shorter to a driving batsman, and pitch- 
ing up closer and closer to a man who habitually 
plays back, has to be acquired, as is also the twist or 

279 



Sports and Games 

bias which gives the ball such "life" after it touches 
the ground. 

The young bowler must practice untiringly until 
he can pitch any length he desires, and gain com- 
mand of the ball. (To do this I would suggest bowl- 
ing at an undefended wicket until one has sufficient 
confidence and command to bowl at a batsman in 
front of the wicket.) 

Wear spiked shoes in bowling, not rubber-soled 
tennis shoes; the spikes give a solid footing, and al- 
low the bowler a better command of the ball. 

It is useless to bowl so short that a ball, falling 
from the pitch, when it reaches the batsman, can be 
cut or pulled at will, even if the ball is on the wicket, 
or so full that he can play into it and drive it away 
with ease. Lengths and changes of pace should be 
well practiced. Study the style of play of the bats- 
man to whom you are bowling, whether he is strong 
or weak in his forward or back play, and bowl ac- 
cordingly. If he is batting carefully and playing all 
good length balls delivered him, bowl for catches, or 
tempting balls for him to hit at, especially good 
length "ofl" balls, which, if touched are very apt to 
give catches in the slips. 

There are two deliveries, a high, and a straight 
arm. Both have their advantages, and it is well for a 
bowler to practice to command both. 

Good temper is more essential to a bowler than to 
any other player in a game, for the best bowling will 

280 



Cricket 

be hit about, catches will be missed, and often a stick- 
ing batsman will tire you out by blocking away for an 
hour, contenting himself with making a half-dozen 
runs. Let this not bother you, but when you find you 
are losing "snap" or command of your bowling, make 
a change. 

HOW TO FIELD 

Fielding is a very important part of cricket, some- 
what different from baseball in the handling of the 
ball, and good or bad fielding goes a great way to- 
ward losing or winning a match; although looked 
upon by a large number of cricketers as of little im- 
portance, as the first thing you will see players do 
when they arrive on the field for practice is to bat 
or bowl (or try to do the latter), when, as first eleven 
players, they need practice in fielding sadly. How 
often one can save runs in the field when he is unfor- 
tunate in not making them off the bat! How dis- 
couraging it is to a bowler to have catches missed ofif 
his bowling! Bowlers should have the assistance of 
fielders to be successful. They can not be expected to 
bowl all the wickets down. 

The fielding points shown us by English teams 
that have visited this country should be a good lesson 
to cricketers on this side of the water. It was very no- 
ticeable how sure and well they stopped a ball, taking 
advantage of either hand, using one hand oftener 
than two; but this I would not encourage. They 

281 



Sports and Games 

were generally sure catches, backed up the wicket 
keeper and bowler with judgment, and were very ac- 
curate on their returns or throws to the wicket. 

The most important positions on the cricket field 
are point, slips and mid-wickets. A fielder to fill 
these positions must be active, a sure catch and always 
on the alert. The wicket-keeper's position should not 
be forgotten, as it is a very important one. There is 
one thing a fielder should always have in mind; that 
is, to expect every ball bowled to come to him when 
hit. He is then prepared to field it, but it is too often 
the case with cricket fielders that they are caught 
napping and have to be waked up by the captain or 
a ball hit their way. It is proper that every fielder 
should watch the game and notice his captain's (or 
bowler's signs or word, and obey instantly, as he is the 
responsible one for placing you in the different posi- 
tions on the field. 

In catching a high-hit ball near the wicket get 
well under it as it is falling, holding your hands to re- 
ceive it above the face, and let them give with the ball 
as it touches the hands. Hold it firmly, as balls so hit 
invariably descend with an awkward twist, and a 
"muffed fly" will be the consequence if at all careless. 

Catching a long-hit ball to the outfield which has 
seldom any twist imparted to it by the bat, is more 
easily held. Considerable practice is required to 
judge the ball from the moment it leaves the bat, and 
it is this instinctive faculty that makes an outfielder 

28a 



Cricket 

valuable in proportion to his ability in this respect. 
Such a player can cover more ground in less time and 
with a greater certainty of holding the ball than a 
player who is slower in judging, although a much 
faster runner. 

To handle a low-hit or ground ball, get in front 
of it, and the moment before it reaches you, place 
your heels together, hold your hands apart about knee 
high, watch the ball closely, and with a quick move- 
ment bring your hands together in front of the ball. 
Should it shoot or pass under your hands it will be 
stopped by your feet; should it bound, your hands 
will meet it. Practice the above movements on a 
smooth piece of ground by having a ball batted or 
thrown along the ground, at first slowly, improv- 
ing the speed as you gain confidence. Don't rush in 
on a hard-hit ball, or wait for a slow hit to reach you. 

To stop a ball with one hand while running side- 
wise to head it off, use care to place your foot behind 
your hand, so if you are late in getting your hand 
down, the ball will be stopped by your foot, as it is 
difficult to stop a ground ball with one hand when 
under full headway. 

Throwing the Ball. — Get the ball in proper posi- 
tion in your hand, between the thumb and two fin- 
gers, and throw with the hand well out from the 
shoulder and no higher than your head. Always aim 
to throw the ball so it can be handled breast high (at 
a short distance) and on the single bound to the top 

283 



Sports and Games 

of the wicket from cover point, long slip or the out- 
field. 

Fielders should not forget to back up the bowler 
or wicket-keeper on a ball thrown in by a fielder, 
standing six to eight feet behind him. All fielders 
should have their shoes well spiked, as a slip of the 
foot is often the cause of a miss catch, a ground ball, 
or a poor return to the wicket, thereby losing the 
chance of a run out. 



284 



LAWN BOWLS 

ID OWLS is a game which, while easy of acquire- 
'^ ment, affords ample scope for the employment 
of considerable strategic skill in its playing; whale for 
enjoyable excitement, alike for the spectator and the 
player, in a spirited contest between expert exemplars 
of the game, it is far ahead of the existing form of 
croquet. It is not a rival at all of tennis, for nothing 
in the way of rapid action or special activity of move- 
ment is required in lawn bowls as there is in tennis. 
In fact, it may appropriately be said to be the game 
of chess of field games, chance giving way to skill in 
the game to a greater extent than in any known field 
game of ball. Here we have an illustration of an 
ordinary field for lawn bowls, which plainly tells the 
initial story of its simple character; and yet it is a 
game which opens up a field for strategic skill and 
scientific play to a high degree. 

Bowls is similar in its principle to the old Scotch 
game of curling, also to shuffleboard and to quoiting. 
In bowls the "jack" is the centre of attraction for the 
bowler, as the "tee" is to the curler, or the "hub" to 
the quoiter. The player aims to bowl his ball as near 
to the jack as it can safely lie, while the curler slides 
his curling stone as near as possible to the tee or centre 
of the circle; and the quoit player strives to ring the 

285 



Sports and Games 

hub with his quoit. It requires great muscular 
strength to engage in curling or quoiting, but in bowls 
strategic skill rather than mere strength comes most 
in play. 

PLAYING THE GAME 

The directions for playing the game are briefly as 
follows : A small ball, perfectly round, and called the 
"jack," is placed. on the ground. The bowlers — each 
using two balls which are numbered to distinguish 
them from each other — take up their positions at a 
certain distance from the jack, and each in turn bowls 
toward it, he whose ball comes nearest counting one. 
When there are more than two players, sides are 
formed, the balls being played alternately, and 
the side one of whose balls comes nearest the jack 
counts one point. The number of points which must 
be made to win the game varies, but is generally 
fixed at twenty. When only two play they may stand 
side by side to deliver their balls ; when there are sev- 
eral on a side the usual plan is to bowl from opposite 
ends of the green, the jack being placed in the middle. 

The balls for bowling are not exactly spherical, 
but are flattened slightly at two ends, making the ball 
a spheroid, like the earth. If, after both sides have 
delivered their balls, two of one side are nearer than 
any balls of the other side, the side whose balls are 
nearest to the jack counts two ; if more balls are nearer 
than any of their opponents', they count a higher 

286 



Lawn Bowls 

number in proportion. The art in bowling consists 
in knocking away the opponents' balls from their po- 
sition near the jack, or in carrying off the jack itself 
from among the opponents' balls, and in bowling 
nearer than any other without disturbing ball or jack. 
In general, bowls are marked with a circular spot on 
one side, which is less rounded than the other; and in 
bowling this side should be held inward. A circular 
motion, or bias, can thus be given to the ball. Great 
practice is required before any player can excel at 
bowls. 

The regular game is played with hard lignum- 
vitae balls, turned in such a manner as to make them 
diverge from a straight line when bowled on the 
green, and turn in toward the jack, or ball, which the 
bowler aims for. In fact, the regular game is quite a 
scientific sport, and presents a field for a great display 
of skill. The game as modernized for young players, 
differs from the regular game materially. The bowl- 
ing green at Dunellen is a model field in its condition 
of being turfed, rolled, and trimmed so as to admit 
of the playing of the finest points of the game. It is 
about seventy feet square, and is bounded by a bank 
on which there is a neat walk, as well as room for 
seats for the spectators of a contest. 

CONSTRUCTING A BOWLING GREEN 
The playing of a skilful, strategic game of lawn 
bowls is out of the question unless you have a perfect 

287 



Sports and Games 

"green" to play on. About as near a perfect field as 
can be had, is that of the Dunellen Club, of New Jer- 
sey; another is the green of the noted Glasgow Club. 
The dimensions of the latter are as follows : There 
are, in fact, two greens used by the club, viz., one for 
matches and the other for practice. The former is 
46J yards in length and 44! yards in width, while 
the small practice green is 40 yards in length but only 
13 J yards in width. The matching playing green is 
surrounded by a ditch 16 inches in width and 5 inches 
in depth, the bottom of the ditch being covered with 
thin strips of wood bound together for a flooring. 
Back of this ditch is a bank 16 inches higher than the 
surface of the green, which prevents the balls being 
driven beyond the ditch. A verge of 12 inches covers 
this bank, and beyond this is a gravelled walk for 
promenading, having occasional seats for spectators, 
the whole surrounded by a high board fence. As re- 
gards the field itself it comprises a piece of nearly 
level and raked turf. A perfect green, of course, 
needs to be as level as a billiard table, but the field of 
the Glasgow Club undulates in its lines, giving unfair 
advantage to those familiar with its particulars, this 
being its only fault. 

The playing length of a green should not be less 
than 112 feet square within the lines of the ditches. 
The turf should be well cut and raked frequently to 
ensure a smooth, carpet-like surface. 



288 



Lawn Bowls 

\ THE GAME 

Points of Play. — The main point of play in lawn 
bowls is, first, to roll the ball as near to the jack as 
possible ; and secondly, to protect that ball from being 
driven from its counting position ; and lastly, to add 
to the counting ball as many balls nearer to the jack 
than any of those of your opponents as you can. In 
achieving these objects certain special points of play 
are involved, such as those technically known as 
"drawing," "raking," "riding," "guarding," "chuck- 
ing" and "blocking." 

After rolling the ball as near to the jack as possi- 
ble, the next point of play is to "guard" or'"block" it, 
that is, to roll the next ball so that it may form an ob- 
struction to the attempt to drive the counting ball 
from its position close to the jack. The "riding" of 
a ball is rolling it with great force, and is only em- 
ployed in critical emergencies, when no other play is 
at command. "Raking" the ball is rolling it with 
force enough to strike an opponent's ball out of its 
position, and to leave your own ball in its place. 
"Chucking" is striking a counting ball out of range 
and thereby adding to your own counting balls; or 
striking one of your own side's balls out of counting 
position into a counting place. "In and out wick- 
ing" is the act of carroming from one ball lying near 
the jack so as to adm.it of your own balls lying nearer 
to the jack than those of your opponent. An "in- 
wick" is a ball that curves in to the jack, like the "in- 

289 



Sports and Games 

turn in curling; and an "out-wick" is a curve from 
the opposite direction. This is the point of play 
made by the oval balls. 

The Score, Tie or Drawn Games. — The score of 
the game consists of the number of shots made, form- 
ing the total of shots agreed upon as the full record 
of the contest. As to the playing of any of these spe- 
cial points, the player is directed to play this, that or 
the other point by the hand of the Skip. When he 
wants the player to "draw" to any particular position, 
he indicates it by placing his hand out from the side 
he desires the ball to be rolled. When he tells his 
player that the ball previously rolled, lies favorably 
for a count, he holds his hands up to his shoulder; 
and when he wishes the player to know that their op- 
ponents hold the count, he holds his hand straight out 
from the shoulder. An "end" in a game is the com- 
pletion of an inning on each side, and the playing of 
so many ends — mutually agreed upon — constitutes 
the completion of a game. The side making the 
most shots in the stated number of ends winning the 
game. If the score is equal at the finish of the ends 
then it is a tie or drawn game. Ordinarily the scor- 
ing of nine points after even ends constitutes a game, 
while the scoring of twenty-one points marks a match 
game. The contest may either be decided by the 
number of shots or points made; by the number of 
points made in so many ends, or the number made 
within an hour or any other specified time. 

290 



Lawn Bowls 

\ 
\ 

TECHNICAL TERMS IN LAWN BOWLS 
'^Rink" is a term applicable not only to the space 
marked out on the field of play as the green, but also 
to the quartette of contesting players on each side. 
The width of a rink ordinarily is 20 feet, and its 
length exceeds the limit of the legal throw of the 
jack, about twenty yards. 

The "Jack" is the object ball in the game. It con- 
sists of a round ball, ranging from 6 to 9 inches 
in circumference and not less than 2 J inches in 
diameter. It is made of potter's clay, hardened 
and enamelled. 

The "Cloth" or "Mat" forms the standpoint of 
the player when about to deliver the ball to the field, 
and on which the player must have one foot when the 
ball leaves his hand. 

The "Bowls" are the balls used in play, and they 
number eight in a full rink, exclusive of the jack used 
on each side; the total number of balls on each side 
used in a full game being eight, making a total of six- 
teen balls and two jacks. 

The "Skip" or "Driver" is the captain of the 
team, and plays last in order. 

The "Leader" is the first player in the game; fol- 
lowed by the "second" and "third" players and the 
"skip." 

"Bias" is a term applicable to the formation of 
balls which are made not strictly round, but more or 
less oval ; the bias given the ball by its peculiar form 

2:91 



Sports and Games 



being intended to curve it in its direction to the right 
or left. 

"Jack Burned" is the technical term applied to a 
ball which has been interfered with or displaced by 
anything except by a ball in play. 

"Throwing the Jack" — No ball in lawn bowls is, 
strictly speaking, "thrown," but only bowled or rolled 
along the green. 

The "Green" is the term used to describe the field 
of play, on which either one or more rinks are laid 
out. 

The "Ditch" is the gutter or ditch which marks 
the boundary of the green. 

A "Ditcher" is a ball which rolls off the field of 
play into the surrounding ditch. 

A "Toucher" is a bowled ball which touches the 
jack. If the bowled ball drives a resting ball so that 
it touches the jack, such ball also becomes a toucher. 

To "Rest"; said of a bowled ball when it stops 
rolling. 

The "End" or "Head" — The innings of a game; 
that is, after the quartet of players finish playing on 
each side. 

Fore and Back Hand — For all right-handed play- 
ers the "fore" hand is on the right of the player, and 
the "back" hand is on the left. 

The "Footer" is an old term used to indicate the 
square of cloth or mat on which each player places 
his pivot foot in delivering the ball to the jack. 

292 



Lawn Bowls 







DIAGRAM OF THE 


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293 



sports and Games 

"Guarding" — After the jack has been thrown by 
the leader, and the second player has rolled his ball 
to the jack, it is the point of play to guard the 
rested ball near the jack by rolling his own ball in 
front of it as a protection from its being driven 
out of its favorable position by the ball from an 
adversary. 

To "Draw" a ball is to roll it to the mark where 
the skip desires it to lie. 

To "Block" a ball is for a player to roll the ball 
so that it may lie as an obstacle to the played ball of 
his succeeding opponent. 

The terms "Rub" and "Set" are applicable to a 
ball which carroms off a played ball, and rests nearer 
the jack after carroming. 

A "Point" or "Shot" is to be credited to each 
player whose ball rests nearer the jack than any of the 
balls of the opposite side. 

The "Overman" is the title of a referee called in 
to settle a disputed point in which the umpires fail to 
agree. 

A "Greened" ball is a ball that has been rolled to 
a resting place. 

"Jack High" is a position which outsiders at a 
match must occupy; that is, they must stand back of 
the line of the mat, cloth, or standpoint of the player 
who delivers the ball. 

The "Mat" is the "cloth" on which the player 
places his foot when he first plays the ball. It is an- 

294 



Lawn Bowls 

other term used to designate the "cloth" or "footer." 
Its size is twenty-two by fourteen inches. 

A ball is regarded as "Dead" the moment it 
ceases to roll on the field. Also if it be rolled beyond 
the limit of the rinks. 

An "Innings" consists of the playing of two balls 
— after the jacks have been played — by each of the 
contestants of each side. The term "head" or "sub" 
is used in place of the word "innings" by old players. 

A rolling ball is called a "Running" ball. 

A "Shot" is the point made by the ball which lies 
nearest the jack at the close of the head or innings. 



295 



CROQUET 

/^~^ ROQUET is a comparatively modern game. It 
^^-^ has not thie weight of years on its side to in- 
crease love and regard for it. 

The name seems to indicate France as its origin, 
and it is said to have been brought from there to Ire- 
land, thence to England. 

Public match games were played in England as 
long ago as 1867. As a lawn game it became exceed- 
ingly popular, and the formation of the "All Eng- 
land's Croquet Club" was succeeded by several an- 
nual contests for Championship at Wimbledon. 

When introduced in this country, it was character- 
ized as a game simple and almost devoid of opportu- 
nities for the display of any very great skill. The 
game was also modified; the number of arches in- 
creased, their positions changed, and the size of the 
grounds diminished. 

The finest playing at that time, and till within a 
few years, was upon lawns with closely mown grass 
and generally level surface; but now the scientific 
player prepares a ground better adapted to his needs 
and the exhibition of his skill. 

Although much genuine pleasure and excellent 
exercise can be obtained from a so-called sod ground, 
yet for delicacy and accuracy of play and exercise 

■296 



Croquet 

of sometimes marvellous skill, the modern ground is 
made a perfectly level, hard-rolled, sanded field. 

All tournament games must be played on a ground 
of this kind. 

It has ceased, therefore, to be a so-called lawn- 
sport among scientific players. The sanded surface 
gathers no dampness as evening hours approach (the 
most common time for play, especially in warm 
weather), and the caution against damp feet on the 
dew-covered grass is unnecessary. 

It is very little trouble to maintain a good ground 
when once properly prepared, and the natural soil 
in most localities serves as an excellent basis for the 
top-soil, which should be sifted if necessary to free it 
from stones and pebbles, and covered after hard roll- 
ing with a very slight sprinkling of fine sand. 

Croquet needs no special dress. The absence of 
excessive physical exertion is suited to those who 
would, if compelled to change suits, take no exercise 
at all, and they can return to business or any avoca- 
tion after an hour of croquet with linen and clothes 
none the worse for their effort, and with an exhila- 
ration that outdoor exercises invariably secure. It is 
especially adapted to sedentary persons and those in 
mature life, to whom the vigorous roughness of base- 
ball and the lively skirmishing of lawn tennis would 
be anything but a pleasure. 

An organized club reduces the items of expense to 
a minimum, and it requires but two to play the game. 

297 



sports and Games 

In England lawn tennis has almost displaced it; 
but it has done so because prepared grounds were, we 
believe, never used there. Lawn playing only was 
indulged in. Lawn tennis is a rival in this country, 
though not at all similar; but we doubt if all its at- 
tractions have ever persuaded one whose faith has 
been firmly fixed and whose skill has made fair prog- 
ress in croquet, to give up his first love. 

Croquet is as scientific as billiards. There is a 
greater field (literally as well as otherwise) for strat- 
egy, the exercise of deliberate judgment, nerve, cool- 
ness and boldness of play in croquet than in billiards, 
much as some may question the truthfulness of the as- 
sertion. The eye and the hand become trained. 
Lawn tennis calls for muscular action in immediate 
response to counter-play. Judgment must be instan- 
taneous and muscular movements rapid and fa- 
tiguing. Croquet stands in strong contrast with its 
deliberate strokes, its moderate exercise and non- 
fatiguing efforts even when prolonged. It is richly 
deserving of increased interest. 

The high degree of skill of which the game by 
the introduction of narrow arches, hard rubber balls 
and the most approved implements of play has been 
made capable, prevents it from being regarded as fit 
only for children. The average age of the contestants 
at several tournaments of the National Association at 
Norwich was over forty years. 

The chief points of excellence in croquet are: 

298 



Croquet 

First — Accuracy in croqueting or making one 
ball hit another from the blow of the mallet. Here 
the accurate eye and the trained hand are needed, for 
at a distance of seventy feet a ball three and one- 
fourth inches in diameter subtends a very small an- 
gle, and a very small divergence of the line of direc- 
tion of the impinging mallet will cause the struck 
ball to go wide of its desired course. 

Second — Ability to take position in front of 
arches so as to pass through them successfully, for the 
arches being only three and one-half inches wide give 
little chance of passing through to a ball of three 
and one-fourth inches when in a "wild position." 

Third — "Wiring" or "staking" an adversary's 
ball so as to leave no ball "open" or "exposed." This 
is done sometimes from a distance of fifteen or twenty 
feet; and fourth and greatest of all is good general- 
ship, for without this all excellence attained in the 
three preceding points will be manifested in vain in 
a hard-fought game. Closely associated with the first 
is the ability to "drive" or "block" the ball at a cer- 
tain angle to reach a position desired. This will be 
attempted only when the balls are near together, for 
at a long range roquet only is attempted. It is possi- 
ble that "jump shooting" ought to be added to these, 
for this, at first thought seemingly impossible method 
of play, is a special feature with some players, and 
not infrequently they are relieved from an otherwise 
inextricable position by a timely jump shot, by which 

299 



Sports and Games 

a ball from a peculiar downward stroke of the mal- 
let may be made to pass over one or more intervening 
arches and "capture" a ball supposed to be safe from 
all danger. 

The wickets should be sunk into the ground six or 
eight inches or set in blocks of wood buried under the 
surface to ensure stability. 

The mallets may be made of boxwood, seven or 
seven and one-half inches long by two and one-fourth 
to two and one-half inches in diameter, and the han- 
dle from eight to fifteen inches in length, as best suits 
the player. Individual taste has caused a great va- 
riety of mallets. The steel (or brass) tube is becom- 
ing increasingly popular, mainly from its strength to 
endure hard blows. It has a hard and a soft rubber 
end, being filled with wood driven in hard. The best 
balls are of hard rubber. They can be easily painted 
by using a preparation of shellac dissolved in alcohol, 
mixing with Chinese vermilion for red, Prussian 
blue and zinc or flake white for blue, and zinc or flake 
white for white. Thus painted they will dry in a few 
minutes and wear for several days. 

TO THE BEGINNER 
In this, as in every other game, there are certain 
general principles which should guide one in his 
play. Before referring to these we will notice first, 
mallets; and second, the position taken in the use of 
the mallet. A mallet should be from seven to eight 

300 



Croquet 



Lower Stake 



b 




301 



sports and Games 

inches in length by about two and one-fourth inches 
in diameter, with handle from twelve to eighteen 
inches long. The size and weight should be that 
which, after trial, the player likes the best. 

As regards position in striking, let every man be 
a law unto himself. My way might not suit you, and 
your way would not suit me; yet while occupying 
very different positions, we may aim and execute with 
equal accuracy. Do not be too long in your aim; 
a quick stroke after getting your line between two 
balls is generally the most accurate; but there is one 
point that all must observe if the ball is to hit the 
mark: after getting your line of aim, and your mallet 
resting ready for the stroke, keep your eyes fixed on 
your own ball. Any deviation from this rule, either 
for short or long shots, will end in failure. 

And now as to a few general principles to be ob- 
served : 

First. Keep your own balls together, and sepa- 
rate those of your adversary. 

Second. Keep with you or your partner the "in- 
nocent" or last played ball of your adversary. 

Third. Keep the "guilty" or next playing ball of 
your adversary wired as much as possible. 

Fourth. When you can make no further run, give 
your partner the best set up you can. 

Fifth. Do not play for the guilty ball when, if 
you miss, you give him a chance better than he has 
before. 

302 



Croquet 

Sixth. If you have but a poor chance to make a 
run, set up the balls for your partner. 

Seventh. In making a run, provide as much as 
possible for points ahead. Do not leave balls be- 
hind you if you can avoid it. 

TERMS USED IN CROQUET 

To Roquet: to hit with one's own ball another 
ball for the first time. 

To Croquet: to place player's ball against the ro- 
queted ball and then striking his own ball, moving 
both. 

Carrom: a rebounding from an arch, a stake, or 
the border. 

In Play: a ball is in play so long as points are 
made, or balls hit in accordance with the rules. 

Dead Ball: a ball on which the player has played 
since making a point. It is then "dead" to the player 
till he makes another point or has another turn. 

Direct Shot — Roquet: this is a direct shot, 
whether the ball in passing to its destination does or 
does not carrom from a wire, or a stake or the border. 

Drive or Block — English "Rush": a roquet 
played so as to send the object ball to some desired 
spot. 

Cut: to drive the object ball to a desired position, 
by causing player's ball to hit it on one side. 

Run or Break: the making of a number of points 
in the same turn. 

3^3 



Sports and Games 

Set Up : to locate the balls so as to afiford f acili-ty 
for making the next point or run. 

Wiring: to leave the balls so that the next finds a 
wire between his ball and the object ball. 

Object Ball: the ball at which the player aims. 

Jump Shot: striking the ball so as to make it jump 
over any obstacle between it and the object aimed at. 
To do this, the ball should be struck with consider- 
able force on the top just back of the centre. 

Guilty or Danger Ball : the next played on the ad- 
versary's side. 

Innocent Ball : the last played ball of the adver- 
sary. 

Rover: a ball that has made all the points except 
the last. 

Tight Croquet: is holding with the hand or foot 
the ball placed against another for the sake of cro- 
quet, thus allowing only the latter to be moved. 

Loose croquet: is striking a ball when it is in con- 
tact with another, where it has been placed for the 
purpose of croquet, thus moving both balls. 



304 



ICE HOCKEY 

f T is difficult to precisely say from which particular 
^ sport "shinny" and hockey are directly sprung. 
The warlike Romans enjoyed a peculiar game that 
was most likely the precursor of hockey in England, 
"hurley" in Ireland and "shinty" in Scotland, which, 
in point of fact, are now one and the same. A leather 
ball stufifed with feathers, and a bat or a club, were 
the essential requisites of the game, and the object 
was to knock the ball to a certain boundary line and 
thereby score a point. 

The original Scotch "shinty" resembled it more 
closely than did "hurley" or English hockey, but 
savored a trifle more of Canada's winter sport, al- 
though, in the mildest of sarcasm, it is not probable 
that the votaries of the former sport would find any- 
thing of excitement in ours. It was played on the 
hard, sandy sea-beach, with two or three hundred on 
each side, and their materials, or rather weapons, 
consisted of roots of trees, with a hard wood knob for 
a ball. History does not relate the number of casual- 
ties that occurred in these matches, of which the most 
important took place on New Year's day, but if our 
imagination be given scope the effect is anything but 
pleasant. 

305 



Sports and Games 

Of all the games that developed from the old 
Roman sport the British hockey alone shaped the 
destiny of ours. There can be but little doubt that 
"shinny," the forerunner of our scientific hockey, is 
the interpretation of the game as played on this side 
of the water, adapted in its application to the climate 
of the country. Hockey in England is played in the 
winter on the frozen ground. It consists in driving 
a ball from one point to another by means of a hooked 
stick. The players are divided into two teams, each 
of which has its goals, which are fixed toward either 
end of a tolerably spacious ground. The goals are 
two upright posts, about six feet apart, with a cross 
pole placed at the height of four feet. Through these 
the ball must be driven in order to score a point. As 
regards the playing of the game, it is unnecessary fur- 
ther to speak, because it bears but little reference to 
hockey as played in Canada and the United States. 
Suffice it to say that in the shape of the sticks, not 
limited in their proportions, in the nature of the ob- 
ject that was used as a ball, in the unlimited number 
of the players and in its principles, it is the parent 
of "shinny on the ice." 

Twenty-five years ago hockey, as played to-day, 
was an unknown sport. Shinny was played on the 
lakes, rivers, and canals throughout the country, but 
only a discerning eye could discover in this crude, but 
infatuating amusement, the grand possibilities that a 
refined game could ofifer. Without restrictions as to 

306 



Ice Hockey 

the proportions of the stick, the nature or quality of 
the puck, the size of the playing space on the ice, or 
the number of the players, the sport could not develop 
into a scientific game until such time as it would be 
discussed and regulated by those who sought its ad- 
vancement. 

To the McGill College and Victoria hockey teams 
of Montreal the game of hockey owes its present 
state. These two were the first regularly organized 
hockey clubs in the world, the former preceding the 
latter by a very short time. Previous to the forma- 
tion of the above organizations about 1881, teams ex- 
isted in Montreal and Quebec, but the only rule that 
was well defined was the one which demanded that 
every man should "shinny on his own side." Do 
what you might, play on what you liked or with what 
you liked — and as long as you shinnied on your own 
side you were within the law. 

All kinds of sticks were used, long knotted roots, 
broom handles, clubs, and all kinds of skates were 
employed, from long, dangerous reachers to short, 
wooden rockers. On each particular occasion the 
captains agreed, before the game, upon the rules that 
they would abide by or disregard, so that the rules 
that governed one match might be null and void for 
another. The puck was a square block of wood, 
about two cubic inches in size, on which a later im- 
provement was the bung of a barrel, tightly tied 
round with cord. Body checking was prohibited, 

307 



Sports and Games 

so was lifting the puck; if the puck went behind the 
goal line it had to be faced; the referee kept time and 
decided the games; the goal posts, placed, at times^ 
like ours, facing one another, were also fastened in 
the ice in a row, facing the sides, so that a game might 
be scored from either road, the forward shooting in 
the direction of the side of the rink, instead of toward 
the end, as we do. 

The game was first introduced into the United 
States by a gentleman from Montreal, Mr. C. 
Shearer, who was studying in the Johns Hopkins 
University, Baltimore. 

He formed a team among the students of the col- 
lege, and was successful in inducing the Quebec team, 
which was the first Canadian seven to play across the 
border, to travel to the Oriole city for a series of 
games. In 1895 the Shamrocks and Montrealers, of 
Montreal, delighted audiences in New York, Wash- 
ington, and Baltimore. Since that time the Queen's 
College team has played in Pittsburg, and nearly all 
of Canada's leading clubs have sent their representa- 
tives to play in the different American rinks. 

The game in the United States now made rapid 
strides. Colleges and schools took an interest in the 
game and organized teams, schedules were drawn up, 
the public flocked to the rinks to see the games, and 
now it Is a most popular winter sport. 

Artificial rinks are found in the principal cities 
of the country, and afford to players a great advan- 

308 



Ice Hockey 

tage, as there is never a scarcity of ice. They are 
opened in the autum and remain open for skating 
until spring; besides, being comparatively warm, 
spectators are not kept away from them, however in- 
clement the weather may be. A short time ago al- 
most any Canadian team could defeat, with compara- 
tive ease, the best seven that could be found in the 
United States. But now a different complexion col- 
ors the comparison between the clubs, because several 
teams have arrived at such a high degree of science in 
the game, that the excellence of their playing makes 
them eligible to honorably compete with the peers of 
the game in Canada. Indeed, it seems that the day is 
not far distant when the holders of the highest honors 
in hockey matters will have to look to themselves if 
they wish to successfully defend their laurels against 
a worthy opponent. 

Hockey was first played in Europe by another 
Montrealer, Mr. George A. Meagher, world's cham- 
pion figure skater, and author of "Lessons in Skat- 
ing." 

In Paris the first European team was formed, 
and the gay Parisians took most enthusiastically to it. 
London boasted of the second club in Europe, and in 
less than one season more than five teams chased the 
rubber disk in that city. 

Scotland was the next country to enjoy the game. 
In the artificial ice palace, Sauchiehall street, Edin- 
burgh, the first practices were held, and so proficient 

309 

Vol. i^-ii 



Sports and Games 

did the canny Scotchman become that a game with 
the team of the Palais de Glace in Paris was ar- 
ranged. A series of six matches was played in one 
week with the French team, and the crowds that wit- 
nessed the games fairly raised the roof with their 
clamorous applause. The "Figaro," the leading 
newspaper in France, described hockey as a game 
that promised to excel all other sports in Paris in 
point of popularity and "scientific possibilities." 

HOCKEY AS A GAME 

Every game, any game, aids considerably in de- 
veloping a player's mind, and for hockey, a follower 
of the game may claim all the good effects in mental 
training that any other branch of sport provides, and 
more. The very adhering to the rules, the spirit of 
fair play that characterizes a manly game, the over- 
coming of all fears and all difficulties, the modest 
victory, the fr^nk acknowledgment of defeat, all 
tend to build up, to educate, the mental faculties, just 
as the long practice, the swift race, and the hard 
check help to develop the physical man. 

At a dinner once tendered to a champion team a 
prominent banker, in speaking of the effects of sport 
in general and hockey in particular, said "that a 
good, clean sportsman was an acquisition to any com- 
mercial house," and his statement is correct. 

A fast game like hockey, when the scoring of a 
goal, the winning of a match, often depends upon the 

310 



Ice Hockey 

immediate execution of an idea that a player has 
scarcely the time to grasp, accustoms a man to think 
quickly and act promptly. Surrounded so closely by 
thousands of inquisitive eyes, the hockey player is 
almost prevented, through the reasonable fear of be- 
ing promptly called to order, from indulging in any 
unbecoming work, of which, perhaps, in other games 
he might be guilty. Besides, the referee of a hockey 
match is so strongly backed by a clear code of rules, 
and has such an unobstructed view of the game, that 
the strict and continued observance of his omnipo- 
tence develops a certain character in a player, that 
has its good efifects in after life. 

As a muscular developer it stands without an 
equal, which to doubt would be a confession of one's 
ignorance of the game. The act of skating front- 
ward and backward, not to mention the numerous 
times when occasion demands that we should go 
sidewise, too, develops the muscles of the legs and 
back and expands the lungs, and the rush down the 
ice, twisting and turning, and being twisted and 
turned, exercises the muscles in the neck, the sides 
and the stomach. 

The multiplex movements required in manipulat- 
ing the stick, call into play, by shooting in the differ- 
ent ways, in checking, and in dodging, nearly every 
other muscle in the human frame, and, as in other 
games of great dexterity, the eye is quickened, bright- 
ened to a degree of judgment. 

311 



sports and Games 

The proof that in a game of hockey every muscle 
receives its due exercise, is this, that after the first few 
practices, before he is "in condition," a player feels 
sore and stifif in every muscle of his body. 

Being practically an out-door sport it is exhilar- 
ating and healthy, and productive of an absorbing 
appetite, which latter is borne out by the statement 
of a hotel keeper who once said that "a hockey team 
can eat more in a limited time than a team of foot- 
ballers or a lacrosse twelve with spares and coaches." 

Speaking of skating as an exercise, Solzman, in 
his incomparable work on the subject, says: "I am 
come to an exercise superior to anything that can be 
classed under the head of motion. I know nothing 
in gymnastics that displays equal elegance, and it ex- 
cites such divine pleasures in the mind of the per- 
former that I would recommend it as the most effica- 
cious remedy to the misanthrope and the hypochon- 
driac. Pure air, piercing, bracing cold, the promo- 
tion of the circulation of the different fluids of the 
body, the unalloyed and mental satisfaction of the 
various skilful movements, must have a powerful in- 
fluence, not only on the frame of man, but on his 
mind likewise. I wish that skating were univers- 
ally introduced, as I know of no kind of motion so 
beneficial to the human body or more capable of 
strengthening it." Add to this the pleasure, the ex- 
citement afforded by a good, clean game of hockey, 
and we have an ideal sport. 

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Ice Hockey 

The men who play are, as a general rule, those 
who excel in other lines of athletic sport. If it is an 
easy matter to point out a footballer, or a lacrosse 
player, who is ignorant of other games, it is difficult 
to mention a hockey player who does not shine as an 
athlete in other branches. It seems that a hockey 
player, in playing the game, makes use of all the 
science he acquires in practicing other sports, with- 
out the roughness. So much time is required to mas- 
ter the science of the game, to merit the name of ex- 
pert, that circumstances have excluded from it the 
ruder, undesirable element, and it shall remain our 
royal game, because, in the clearness, the conciseness 
of its rules, in the scientific points of its play, in the 
social standing and the "bonhomie" of its players, 
it has yet to find an equal. So long as it remains free 
from the taint of professionalism it will remain dear 
to the hearts of all true sportsmen, all good athletes, 
but as soon as this vice creeps in the knell will sound 
for its death as a popular pastime. Because when a 
monetary consideration depends upon the result of a 
match in which professionals figure as participants, 
roughness, brutality, will characterize it, to the dis- 
gust of the spectators, whose attendance sustains the 
interest and provides the sinews of war which keep 
the game alive. Moreover, the athletic vice of pro- 
fessionalism should be stamped out for this reason, es- 
pecially, that when a young man sees his way clear to 
earn a livelihood at sports, he will seldom fail to 

3^3 



Sports and Games 

throw away on them the most valuable time of his 
life, by neglecting the duties that his age demands 
of him. 

The sight afforded by a scientific hockey match 
acts upon the spectators in a variety of ways. Cold, 
uncomfortably cold, before the game begins, they are 
gradually worked into a state of warmth by an excite- 
ment that makes them forget the weather, their 
friends and everything but the keen scientific play in 
progress. 

Without comparing it to an oil painting of a 
chariot race, an Indian buffalo hunt or a fierce battle, 
what is prettier than the spectacle that a good game 
presents, of four stalwart, shapely forwards tearing 
down the ice, playing their lightning combination, of 
a brilliant rush stopped by an equally brilliant de- 
fence play, of a quick dash through a struggling mass 
of excited players, or a zig-zag, twisting, twirling, 
dodging run to score a deciding goal? 

The pure air, the bright lights, the merry, laugh- 
ing girls, the noisy enthusiastic boys, and age that's 
not too old to still enjoy the pleasure of a fascinating 
game, all combine, with the keen ice and the fast 
play, to make hockey the king of infatuating 
sports. 

Essentially an exciting game, hockey thrills the 
player and fascinates the spectator. The swift race 
up and down the ice, the dodging, the quick passing 
and fast skating, make it an infatuating game. From 



Ice Hockey 

the time that the whistle blows for the face-off until 
the exciting moment when the gong announces the 
end of the match, the players are rushing, struggling, 
and the spectators straining their eyes to catch every 
glimpse of the play. 

Fast! It eclipses other games in this respect. 
Never a second to lose, never a moment to spare — an 
opportunity once lost is gone forever— and even one 
little slip, one miss, one fumble, is oftentimes the loss 
of a match. 

So fascinating is the game to a man who rivets his 
attention on the play, that even the most thunderous 
applause, if he hears it at all, sounds like the far-ofif 
echo of a rippling brook, because he is engaged heart 
and soul in his work. 

The convincing, the clinching proof of the fasci- 
nation of the game is this, that even the gentler sex, 
not satisfied with enjoying it from the standpoint of 
spectators, have graciously added their own to the 
many charms that it already boasts, by bravely lining 
up to meet, in gentle combat, their tender adver- 
saries. 

It is surprising how many ladies' teams exist in 
Canada, and although we do not read of fast, exciting 
games between these graceful votaries of the sport, it 
is a slow, small town that can glory in not one such. 
Thus, hockey players may flatter themselves that their 
game is honored in a way that no other of the kind 
may claim. 

3^5 



Sports and Games 

EQUIPMENTS FOR HOCKEY 

For many reasons the quality and species of the 
skate is a most important consideration to a hockey 
player. 

The hockey skate should be just high enough to 
prevent the plate or the sole of the boot from touching 
the ice when turning or cutting corners, because a low 
skate is not so straining on the ankle as a high one. 
The blade should be long enough and sufficiently fiat 
on the ice to admit of great speed, but should not pro- 
ject at the toe or heel so much as to trip the skater on 
any occasion, and should be curved slightly in front 
and behind in order to allow of quick turning. Al- 
though it should be so pointed as to enable a player to 
begin a rush by running on the toes, these should not 
have a distinct, projecting point, but should be so 
shaped that they will admit of this start, because a 
sharp projection is often the cause of a nasty fall and 
also of a dangerous cut to the wearer of the skates or 
to one of his opponents. 

A good hockey skate should be a combination of 
great strength and lightness of weight. It should be 
strong because the thousand twistings and turnings of 
a player strain every inch of the blade, each plate and 
every rivet; it should be light because the. lightness 
of the skate adds to the swiftness of the skater, and be- 
cause a heavy skate is tiring. To again refer to the 
length of the skate, the blade should project about an 
inch in front of the toe of the boot and an inch or a 

316 



Ice Hockey 

little more behind the heel, and the width of the bot- 
tom of the blade should retain the same thickness 
from toe to heel, or rather on that part of blade that 
touches the ice when a skater maintains a standing 
position. The two ends back and front should taper 
slightly in width, becoming thinner toward the 
points. 

A player's clothes should be light enough to be of 
no perceptible weight, and warm enough to insure 
him against catching cold. A moderately heavy 
sweater, pants padded at the hips and knees and heavy 
stockings with a suit of light underwear are the neces- 
sary articles of clothing for a hockey player. 

Hats are not needed if the hair is allowed to 
grow moderately long; in fact, they are an unneces- 
sary extra. 

Gloves, thin enough to permit the player to retain 
a firm, sure grasp of his stick, are used to prevent the 
hands from being cut on the rough ice after a fall. It 
is advisable to wear shin guards and any other appli- 
ances that afiford protection. Unless a player's ankles 
are weak, or his boots too large, straps should not be 
used, because they are of no other value than to 
strengthen the ankles, which, with plenty of practice 
and well-fitting boots, do not, or should not, need 
support. 

The hockey stick Is the requisite next in impor- 
tance, but as it will be treated further on no mention 
of it will be made here. 

317 



Sports and Games 

POINTS OF A GOOD PLAYER 

Coolness, in hockey parlance, is the power and 
practice of taking time to think out a move. A player 
must be cool-headed to a degree that verp;es on slow- 
ness, because, so fast a game is hockey, that an expert 
player, an experienced team, should take advantage 
of every opportunity that the changing plays present, 
and this to do, even in the quickest rushes, the swiftest 
combinations, the fiercest "mix-ups," it is necessary 
that one should remain as cool as the proverbial cu- 
cumber. 

As a hockey axiom, it might be said that "it is bet- 
ter to think more and rush less, than to rush more and 
think less." 

The cool, collected, calculating player is worth 
more to a team than two or three of the class whose 
main object seems to be the possession of the puck for 
a "big" rush down the ice. 

If any man among your opponents is to be feared, 
let it be the one who thinks out each move, who makes 
no useless plays, who shoots for the goals only when 
there is an opening, because "such men are danger- 
ous." Many a game is lost, many a chance is missed 
by the man who will not, can not take time enough to 
think out a play. 

Another requisite is confidence, both in your as- 
sistants and in yourself. Just as that regiment whose 
soldiers rely upon one another is a better one than 
another in which the members have no confidence in 

318 



Ice Hockey 

their comrades, so, in a hockey team it is absolutely 
necessary that each player should be able to depend 
upon his confreres. 

A team should feel that it can defeat any seven 
that opposes it, and each individual man of a team 
ought to believe that, if necessary, he can pass any 
one of his adversaries. A team that goes on the ice 
thinking that defeat is probable is already beaten; a 
player v^ho fears that he can not elude certain of his 
opponents is a factor of success for the opposing team. 
Care should be taken, however, that confidence may 
not be exaggerated. Over-confidence is a greater 
fault than confidence is a virtue. While each team 
should feel that it can probably defeat its opponents, 
it should also bear in mind that until the game is 
ended its own goals are in danger, and act accord- 
ingly. 

"A spirit that could dare 
The deadliest form that death could take, 
And dare it for the daring's sake." 

Pluck is an essential to a man who aspires to per- 
fection in the game, and is as indispensable to him as 
it is to a football player or a soldier. The calculating 
player often saves himself by avoiding unnecessary 
dangers, but occasion demands, at times, a fast rush 
through a "bunch" of fighting players, through 
swinging, smashing sticks that, in noise and move- 
ments, resemble a threshing machine — a desperate 
jump, or a block of the puck, at the expense of a sore 

319 



Sports and Games 

punishment, to score or save a single goal, and the 
risk must be run. 

The cringer, the man who waits outside of a 
scrimmage until by chance the puck slides to him, the 
man who fears an opponent, is not a hockey player. 
It is, of course, scientific play on certain occasions to 
wait until the puck is shoved out of a crowd, or from 
the side, but reference is made above to the time when 
a "dive" is needed. Even if a man knows that an 
opponent is mean, unfair, this should be but a poor 
excuse to fear him, because the referee is on the ice 
for the protection of all the players. 

A hockey player must necessarily be strong physi- 
cally and constitutionally. If his muscles be well 
developed, well trained, and his constitution weak, 
so violent a game as this will do him an irreparable 
injury. Hockey is so fast, so trying on a forvv^ard 
player, who is rushing continually from the opening 
to the closing of a match, that, in order to play with- 
out hurting himself he must be in perfect condi- 
tion. This condition means both the state of his 
health and the condition of his mind and muscles. 

Training for the game of hockey is the simplest, 
perhaps, of any, and consists for the most part in care- 
ful practice. 

Nothing prepares a player for the opening of a 
hockey season so well as a thorough course in gym- 
nastics. This to do properly, it is necessary to make 
use of every appliance that the gymnasium affords 

320 



Ice Hockey 

(except the heavy weights), because the game of 
hockey calls into play every muscle that a complete 
gymnasium develops, which is attested to by the stiff- 
ness in every muscle after a good, hard game. Exer- 
cises that aid in enlarging and hardening the muscles 
in the arms, back, chest and stomach are specially 
recommended. The legs are quickly brought into 
condition by skating and walking. 

It is difficult to lay down rules regulating the 
manipulation of the stick. What there are of them 
are few and undefined. The stick should be held in 
both hands. The right hand should hold it firmly at 
the end of handle and the left lower down, according 
to the reach of the player, because, even if most plays 
are made with both hands on the stick, there are 
times when it is necessary to use only one, in which 
case, holding the stick as above, the right hand is al- 
ready in place without any change. 

The stick should be held in both hands, because 
in that position a man is always ready to shoot for the 
goals or to pass the puck. Besides, he can check 
better, dodge better, resist a heavy check more easily 
and sustain his position on his skates more securely 
when he has the stick thus held upon the ice. 

Stick-handling, like confidence, coolness, strength 
and speed, is acquired by practice, and by practice 
alone. 

The more you play the sooner you will become an 
adept in the art, and the better you can handle your 

321 



Sports and Games 

stick the more efifective a player you will be, because 
stick-handling is one of the essentials of the game. 

THE SCIENCE OF HOCKEY 

What is the objective point, the central idea, in 
the game of hockey? To score — to lift, slide, push or 
knock the puck through your opponents' goals. 

A team, and each individual member of a team, 
should concentrate- every idea, every thought on this 
one desire, and each play, each move should point to 
it, as the rays of the sun are converged through a glass 
to the focus. 

That play is vain w^hich does not tend to bring a 
team, or a member of a team, to a position from which 
the desired point can be gained — a useless move af- 
fects the position of a team, throws the players out of 
poise. 

The fancy play, the grand-stand play, is a waste 
of energy, childish, worthless. The play that counts, 
the play that shows the science of the man who makes 
it, is the immediate execution, in the simplest manner,, 
of the plan that a player conceives when he considers 
the object of his playing. In other (geometrical) 
words the shortest distance between two points is a 
straight line, and applied to the science of hockey, it 
means that a player should take the shortest and 
quickest way of obtaining the desired effect, which, 
by analysis, is oftentimes the most scientific. 

When it is said that every player of a team should 

322 



Ice Hockey 

strain neive and muscle to score a goal, the meaning 
is not that each individual member should strive to 
do the act himself, but that he should use every efifort 
to assist him to score who is in the most advantageous 
position to do so. The selfish desire on the part of 
even one man to make the point oftentimes entails the 
loss of a match. 

Although by nearing his opponents' defence with 
the puck a player naturally approaches the position 
from which to shoot, he will invariably confuse his 
adversaries more successfully, and often secure for 
himself or his partner a much more desirable vantage 
ground, by passing the puck to the latter before 
reaching the cover-point. Indeed, if the question of 
praise be mentioned, there is often more due to the 
player who assists by a clever bit of combination 
work than to the man who scores the game. 

The secret of a team's success is combination play, 
in other words, unselfishness. It means the giving of 
the puck to a player of one's own side who is in a bet- 
ter position to use it than the man who first secures 
the rubber. It is the science of mutual help. As in 
lacrosse and football, it is a "sine qua non." The 
team that indulges most in this scientific play has the 
less hard work to do and is necessarily the freshest 
when the trying end of the match comes round, be- 
cause combination play minimizes the work in this 
arduous game. 

As soon as a player secures the puck he should first 



sports and Games 

look for an opening and then size up, at a glance, the 
position of his confreres. It is, indeed, a question 
whether it be not more scientific, more successful to 
first look for a good opportunity to pass the puck to a 
partner, and then, if none such presents itself, to force 
a clearing. 

It happens that a fast forward can, by his own 
personal efforts, score one, two or perhaps three goals, 
but toward the close of the game he is no longer able 
to do effective work, because his selfish exertions have 
played him out, and when necessity demands that, 
because of poor assistance from his partners, a good 
man should indulge in individual work, such may be 
permissible, but the team thus handicapped can not 
expect to win from a well-balanced aggregation. 

Combination in hockey is the scientific means to 
the end at which the players aim, viz., the placing of 
a man of the team that makes the play in the best ob- 
tainable position to shoot a goal, and should be car- 
ried on only until that position is attained. 

It is possible to indulge even too much in com- 
bination work, necessary as it is on most occasions, 
and thus the virtue may be turned into a vice. It 
should not be played too freely by men in front of 
their own goals, and as it is merely a means to an 
end, an over-indulgence in it is a loss of time, of which 
hockey is too fast a game to allow. 

In close quarters the puck should be passed to a 
man's stick, and not in a line with His skates. A 

3H 



Ice Hockey 

scientific player, rushing down the ice with a partner, 
will give the puck to the latter, not in a direct line 
with him, unless they are very close together, but to a 
point somewhat in advance, so that he will have to 
skate up to get it. The advantage in this style of pass- 
ing is that the man who is to receive the rubber will 
not have to wait for it, but may skate on at the same 
rate of speed at which he was going before the puck 
was crossed and proceed in his course without loss of 
time. 

The puck should be passed in such a manner that 
it will slide along the ice and not "lift," because it is 
difficult to stop and secure the rubber when it comes 
flying through the air. There are times, of course, 
when a "lifted" pass is necessary; for instance, when 
the line on the ice between the passer and the receiver 
is obstructed, but otherwise the "sliding" pass is ad- 
visable. 

When two "wing" men play combination together 
in an attack, the puck should scarcely ever be passed 
directly to each other, but should be aimed at the 
cushioned side of the rink, some distance in advance 
of the man, so that he may secure it on the rebound. 
The rink is so wide that it is difficult to pass the puck 
accurately from one side to the other, especially dur- 
ing a rush, so the above means is recommended. 

When three or four forwards are making a rush, 
the puck should be held by one of the centre players 
until the cover-point is reached, because in such a 



sports and Games 

play the latter does not know to which man the rub- 
ber is to be passed, for it may be given to the right 
or the left wing or even to the other centre player, but 
when, in an attack, a wing man has the puck, the 
cover-point knows that he must necessarily cross it out 
to the centre and is prepared for the play. 

When the forwards of a team are operating 
around their opponents' goal and can not get an 
opening, it is sometimes advisable for them to slide 
the puck to their cover-point if he is well advanced to- 
ward the middle of the rink, because this will prob- 
ably coax out the defence, and the change of positiona 
may create the desired effect. 

One of the most successful, and, perhaps, the 
most neglected of combination plays is the following: 
when a player secures the puck behind or to the side 
of his opponents' goal, he should, if he has time, 
slide it to his assistant who is in the best position to 
receive it, or, if not, to the side where he knows that 
one of his men, by a preconcerted, practiced arrange- 
ment, awaits it, but he should never send it, with a 
blind, trust-to-luck shot directly in front of the goals, 
because the point and cover-point should be, and 
usually are, stationed there. This simple play is of- 
ten attended with great success. To guard against 
this play the defence men and forwards of the at- 
tacked goal should see that, when the puck is around 
the goal line, each of their opposing forwards is care- 
fully checked. 

226 



Ice Hockey 

Each player should be careful to remain in his 
own position, and in order to acquire the habit of so 
doing, every man should make it a point in each prac- 
tice, however unimportant, to cling to the particular 
position on the team which he is intended to fill. It is 
a grievous mistake for a wing man to leave his posi- 
tion and play in the centre of the ice or on the side to 
which he does not belong, or for a centre player or 
rover to wander to the wings, because as each man has 
a cover, a check, on whom, in turn he should bestow 
his attention, he gives his opponent, when he leaves 
his place, an opening that the latter should not and 
would not have if he were properly watched, besides, 
the forwards and the defence men of an experienced 
team ought to be able to know where their assistants 
are or, rather, should be by judging from their own 
positions. When a man strays from his own territory, 
a brilliant combination play may easily be lost 
through his absence from his proper place. 

Each player of a team should occupy his position 
so unfailingly in practice, and the team should in- 
dulge in combination work to such an extent, that, in 
a match, a forward ought, at times, to be able to slide 
the puck to an assistant vv'ithout even having to look 
to know where the latter is. If perfection be aimed 
at, and it should, the point of following up should be 
so regular, so systematic that this play may be suc- 
cessfully indulged in, because, with every man work- 
ing in his position, like so many movements in a clock, 

3^7 



Sports and Games 

a forward with the puck, in advance, should know 
without looking, where each of his partners follows. 

The prettiest spectacle afforded by a good hockey 
match, is the rush down the ice, four abreast, of the 
forwards. This play to a man of sporting instincts, 
verges on the beautiful. 

When four men in a line, racing at lightning 
speed, approach the defence of their opponents, it is 
then that the goal-keeper of the attacked party sees 
danger signals floating in the air, because the assist- 
ance he will receive from his defence men, is, on these 
occasions, problematical. If they crowd in upon him, 
his view of the play is obstructed; if the cover rushes 
out he may not use the body-check, because he does 
not know which man will have the puck, and there- 
fore can not afford to waste time and energy on one 
who has already passed the rubber, or who will do so, 
and the point man must necessarily keep his position 
unless some fumbling occurs. But should the forward 
line advance four abreast? This is a serious question. 

When such a rush is being made, one slip, one 
fumble, a fraction of a second lost, will throw at least 
three of the forwards off-side, out of play. It is a 
good deal safer and more satisfactory for one man, 
say the rover, to follow the three other forwards, 
slightly in the rear, so that if such a slip, such a fum- 
ble occurs, he will be close on hand to recover the 
puck, and quickly place his men in play. 

More than two forwards should never be behind 

328 



Ice Hockey 

their opponents' goal at the same time, because it is 
necessary that some should be in front, in case the 
puck should be passed out to them, and, moreover, if 
it be lifted down by their adversaries, they have a 
chance of stopping it in a good position to shoot for 
the goal. 

At least two men should be in front, in order to 
follow up any attack that their opponents might make 
on their goal. It is surprising how much trouble 
can be caused a forward line by a persistent forward 
who nags at them from behind. He can often break 
up a combination, and create more confusion among 
them than a defence man, because they know what to 
expect from the latter and are on the lookout for him, 
but find it difficult to deal with a fast man who 
bothers them in this way. It is in this work that a 
fast skater shows to advantage. 

Should a forward who has gone down the ice 
alone attempt to pass the cover-point and point of the 
opposing team, before shooting? Yes and no. If the 
cover-point is well up toward the middle of the rink 
and the point is not too near the goal, let him strain 
every nerve and muscle to dodge them both and then 
shoot, but if the defence men are bunched in front 
of the poles, he should lift without trying to pass the 
cover-point. His shot, in this case, will often prove 
effective, because, having his two assistants directly 
in front of him, obstructing his view of the play, the 
goal keeper can not easily stop a low, hard, well-di- 

3^9 



Sports and Games 

rected "puck," besides, he will deprive the cover- 
point of the pleasure of "using his body." 

On approaching the cover-point, a forward, be- 
fore passing the puck, should incline a good deal to- 
ward the opposite side to which he is going to send 
it, because in so doing he will force the cover-point 
to leave his place, and thereby create a better clearing 
for action. 

It is a peculiar fact that defence men, in their po- 
sitions, are usually less apt than forwards to get ex- 
cited, which might be accounted for by this that it is 
a great deal easier for them to prevent a man from 
scoring than it is for him to score, and, besides, they 
are in their own territory moving at comparative ease, 
while the rushing forward tears down at full speed 
and has time enough only to think of how he may pass 
the puck or how elude the cover-point. The forward 
player has more to think of, more to do in order to 
score, than the defence men have in preventing him. 

It is in the attack on goal that a forward's cool- 
ness will assist him. For a man to know what to do, 
when he is near his opponents' defence, requires 
thought. The ever-varying changes in conditions 
and positions prevent a man from having any set line 
of action in an attack. Every rush is confronted by a 
different combination of circumstances, and a for- 
ward must know, on each separate occasion, the play 
that is best calculated to effect the desired result. This 
knowledge is the attribute of an experienced player, 

330 



Ice Hockey 

and must go hand in hand with coolness. Practice 
teaches a man what to do, coolness enables him 
to do it. 

It is singular, but remarkably true, that a for- 
ward who could not win even a "green" skating race, 
can excel as a lightning hockey player. It is one of 
the ingenious paradoxes of the game, that can not be 
explained. A man who can beat another in a race is 
not necessarily a faster forward than that man. Ex- 
amples on every team prove the contention. Perhaps 
the possession of the puck, the excitement of the 
game, the attraction that an assistant has when skat- 
ing near him, gives to the man who may not claim 
distinction as a racer, a power, a speed, that a simple 
race can not make him exercise; perhaps the superior 
science of a player who can not skate as well as an- 
other, may enable him to surpass that man in general 
speed, by minimizing his work and by allowing him 
to husband his strength for the great efforts that occur 
at different stages of the game. 

When a forward skates down the rink near the 
side, his easiest way of dodging an opponent is by 
carroming the puck against the boards, which act as a 
cushion, passing his man on the outside, and recover- 
ing the puck, which bounces out to meet him. In this 
play the puck should invariably be lifted, because 
the dodge is expected, and if the puck slides along the 
ice to the side it may often be easily stopped. 

When a forward, rushing down the ice, is well 

33^ 



Sports and Games 

followed by another of his side, he should not try to 
dodge the cover-point, but should draw out that man 
by inclining to the side, and pass the puck to his part- 
ner, taking care to then place himself in the best pos- 
sible position to receive it back, if the latter can not 
shoot. 

A man should check his opponents' stick heavily, 
as a gentle stroke, an easy check, has seldom any 
effect. 

Experience teaches that in a low, bent position, 
a man can get up speed a good deal quicker than 
when he keeps his body upright, and, moreover, he is 
less liable when skating thus to suffer from the body 
check of an opponent. 

A body check means the striking of a man with 
your hip or shoulder in order to cause him to stop or 
even fall. The most effective check of this kind is 
striking a man with the hip, upon his hip, because 
this is more or less the centre of gravity in a human 
being, and a good, solid weight catching a person 
in this spot, especially when that person is balancing 
on his skates or rushing up the ice, seldom fails in the 
desired result. The forward player who indulges in 
body-checking makes a fatal mistake, for although 
he may gain a momentary advantage, he wastes so 
much energy in the act, that in the long run he is a 
heavy loser. This is an incontrovertible fact, and 
any forward will readily bear out the statement. 
He should avoid body-checking with even greater 

32'^ 



Ice Hockey 

care than he should being checked, because the 
former requires a great effort, and the latter only 
seldom injures the man who is encountered. A de- 
fence man, however, who has but few rushes up the 
ice, can afford to enjoy the pleasure of "throwing" 
himself at an opponent, and often to great advantage. 
He is in a good position to catch his adversary "on 
the hip," especially when the latter is "on the wing," 
as it were, and can thus often put a short-stop to a 
dangerous run. The effect of a body-check is not so 
"striking" when the object of it steadies himself in as 
low a position as possible, while the man who is using 
the play attains his end better by catching his oppo- 
nent, as stated above, in the centre of his weight, or 
higher, when the latter is not steadily placed. This 
practice of body checking is permissible, and, to a cer- 
tain degree, scientific, but it is questionable whether 
it be not a less noble way of overcoming a dangerous 
opponent, than by expert stick handling, or by some 
gentler means. It can not be said to be directly in ac- 
cordance with the strictest, the highest sense of pol- 
ished, fair, scientific play. It certainly is a feat, diffi- 
cult of accomplishment, to stop a man who is rushing 
toward you with the speed of an express train, and 
upset him without the slightest injury to yourself, but 
is this the fairest way of defending your flags? It 
savors too much of roughness, and can be the cause of 
a serious accident, because a fall on the ice, at any 
time, is usually painful and dangerous enough, with- 

333 



sports and Games 

out any additional impetus from without. If it is al- 
lowable, it is most unfair to "body" a man into the 
side of the rink. 

Among some of the senior teams the practice of 
interference is becoming prominent, and should be 
severely checked, because it is an unfailing cause of 
unnecessary roughness. No player, however mild, 
who is rushing down the ice to secure an advan- 
tageous position, will allow himself to be deliber- 
ately interrupted, stopped by an opponent who has 
not, and should not have the right to oppose his 
course, without picking a bone or two with him. An- 
other innovation that is calculated to injure the game, 
is mass plays. This rupture of the rules was con- 
spicuous among certain teams one year. It might be 
hard to imagine or detect such a thing in hockey, but 
it, nevertheless, occurs. It is practically, "concen- 
trated interference," in technical terms, and, as in 
football, is used by the team which attempts to score, 
a point which distinguishes it from simple interfer- 
ence as used by an attacked team to prevent scoring. 
To be properly carried out it involves the disregard 
for the rule regulating on-side movements, and is 
therefore, though difficult to detect, a breach of the 
same. The teams in cities where the practice of in- 
terference in football is more popular, are the most 
given to this play. 

It is essential that the two centre men and the 
right wing should be able to shoot the puck as well 

334 



Ice Hockey 

from the right side as from the left, because the 
chances of scoring in either ways are about equal. As 
for the left wing, he is called upon so seldom to shoot 
from the right, that is presuming that he holds his 
stick correctly, with the blade to his left side, that it 
is not so important for him. 

The most dangerous, successful lift for the goal, is 
raising the puck about to the level of the knee. This 
height is too great to allow the goaler's stick to be 
of any use, and is not high enough to be stopped by 
his bulky body. 

The lift is not obtained by strength, but by knack 
and a good stick. Of course the more strength there 
is in the act of lifting the greater will be the velocity 
of the shot. But strength minus knack is not so suc- 
cessful as knack minus strength. 

To lift the puck, the edge of the blade of the 
hockey stick must touch the puck lower than half its 
thickness, and the practiced "twist of the wrist" ac- 
complishes the rest. This form of ridding yourself 
of the rubber is most important, because by a lift the 
puck travels further and faster than it would along 
the ice, which gets cut up soon after the opening of a 
match, besides, it is much harder for an opponent to 
stop a lift than an ordinary sliding puck. 

It is a mistake to lose courage because your oppo- 
nents score the first three or four goals. 

Do not begin to play roughly because you are los- 
ing; and do not purposely and ostentatiously avoid 

33S 



sports and Games 

scoring against a team that has already lost, because 
even if a bad beating does discourage them they 
would rather suffer it than be humiliated by any such 
show of pity. 

Do not imagine that after winning a few games 
the match is won, because "accidents" occur, and do 
not dream of laurel wreaths and championships on 
account of your success in the opening of the series. 

Attend every practice but do not become over- 
trained. 

A man should not lose his temper because he suf- 
fers a sore knock. A display of "fireworks" is often 
the cause of an undesirable rest among the spectators. 

Do not question the decision of the umpire or 
referee. Let your captain plead the case. 

I. THE GOAL-MINDER 

Goal-keeping is one of the easiest and at the same 
time one of the most difficult positions to fill success- 
fully on the team. 

It is simple because it is not altogether essential 
to be an expert skater or stick handler. It is difficult 
because it requires a quick and true eye together with 
agility of motion and good judgment. 

Besides keeping his eye on the puck, he must have 
a good idea where his opponents are placed so as to be 
prepared to stop a shot resulting from a sudden pass 
in front of goals. 

I am of the opinion that the goaler should only 

33^ 



Ice Hocke 



y 



o 


GOAL 

• 

POINT 

• 

COVER POINT 

• 

R. CENTRE 

« 


o 


R. WING 

• 


L. CENTRE 

• 


L. WING 

• 




• 
L. CENTRE 




• 
L. WING 


• 
R. CENTRE 

e 
COVER POINT 

• 
POINT 


• 
R. WING 


o 


• 

GOAL 


o 



POSITIONS OF THE TEAMS 

337 



Sports and Games 

leave his goal under the following conditions : First, 
when he is quite sure that he can reach the puck be- 
fore an opponent, and when none of his own team are 
near enough to secure it instead; secondly, when one 
of the attacking side has succeeded in passing the de- 
fence and is coming in (unsupported) toward the 
goal, then the goaler, judging the time well, may 
skate out to meet him, being careful that he is directly 
in line between the shooter and goal. This sudden 
movement surprises the man and he is liable to shoot 
the puck inaccurately or against the goaler's body. 

In stopping the puck, the feet, limbs, body, and 
hands are all used according to the nature of the shot. 
The stick is used to clear the puck from the goal af- 
ter stop has been made, but rarely to make the stop. 

Some goalers use the hands much more frequently 
than others and make splendid stops in this way. But 
this depends on the individual's handiness, those ac- 
customed to play baseball and cricket excelling. 

The most difficult shot to stop results from a quick 
pass in front of goal at the height of about one foot 
off the ice. 

Goalers should use a good broad-bladed skate, not 
too sharp, so as to allow easy change of position from 
one side to the other of the goal. He should dress 
warmly and protect his body and limbs with the usual 
pads which at the same time help to fill up the goal. 

He must not get "rattled" by the spectators, and 
never lose confidence in himself. 

338 



Ice Hockey 

II . THE POINT 

The defence of a successful team must neces- 
sarily be as proportionately strong as the forward 
line. Although their territory, their sphere of ac- 
tion, is more limited than that of their forwards, the 
defence men have work to do that is, in its efifect, as 
important as the rushes of the latter. 

The goal-keeper should consider that he is in- 
closed in a magic circle, and should scarcely ever 
leave his position, but if he does he should return to 
it as soon as possible. He should not depend upon 
his defence to stop the puck. The point and cover- 
point should play as if they were one man in two po- 
sitions. The position of the point should be deter- 
mined by that of the cover-point. If the cover-point 
is on one side, the point should be on the other, to such 
an extent only, though, that each may have an equally 
good view of the play, and that a forward who ad- 
vances toward their goal will have tv/o distinct men 
to pass, instead of two men, one directly and close 
behind the other. 

When two forwards approach their goal, the 
cover-point should devote his attention to the man 
who has the puck and block him as well as he may, 
and the point should advance slightly to meet the 
other, and, incidentally, to intercept any pass that 
may be attempted. 

During a tussle behind or to the side of the goal, 
the point and cover-point should never leave their 

339 



sports and Games 

positions vacant. If the one leaves his place the other 
should remain in front, but never should both be 
away, because the absence of these two men from their 
proper positions is the cause of more games being 
lost than any other fault they may commit. 

The position of the point man is essentially de- 
fensive. The distance between him and the goaler is 
determined by the proximity of the play. He should 
not stray too far from his place, because oftentimes 
he is practically a second goal-minder, able, through 
the practice that his position gives him, to stop almost 
equally well as the latter, but although he should re- 
main close to his goal-keeper, he should never ob- 
struct that man's view of the puck. Whenever it be- 
comes necessary for the goaler to leave his place, it is 
the duty of the point man immediately to fill it, and 
remain there until the latter returns. 

He should, as a rule, avoid rushing up the ice, but 
if he has a good opening for such a play he should 
give the puck to one of his forwards on the first op- 
portunity, and then hasten back to his position, which 
has been occupied in the interim by the cover-point. 

When it is absolutely necessary, combination play 
may be carried on by the point and cover-point in 
front of goal, but only with the greatest care. 

When three or four forwards skate down together 
it is advisable for the defence men to retire toward 
their goal and block them until assistance from the 
forwards arrives. 

340 



Ice Hockey 



The defence men should not allow themselves to 
be coaxed, drawn out, by their opponents. 

A lifting competition between the defence men of 
the opposing teams is fatiguing to the forwards, and 
very tiresome to look at. 

The position of the cover-point is the best adapted 
for the captaining of a team, because a man in this 
place is in touch with the defence and the forward 
players. 

III. THE COVER-POINT 

The cover-point is a combination of a defence 
man and a forward, and is allowed, in virtue of the 
fact, more latitude with respect to leaving his posi- 
tion than any man on the team, except the rover. 

In his capacity of a defence player he should lin- 
ger around his goal as long as the puck is near, and 
be very careful when he secures it in fi:ont of the 
poles. When the play is at the other end of the rink, 
the cover-point should advance to about the middle, 
so that when the puck is lifted down he may return it 
without loss of time, in order to keep the game cen- 
tred around his opponents' goal and to save his for- 
wards the trouble of skating up to him so that they 
may again "get into play." It is by playing far up 
under these circumstances that a clever cover-point 
can shine to the advantage of his team. If he has a 
good opening, he should shoot well for the goal, but 
if not he should return the puck instantly. 

When in this position, far from his goal, a cover- 

Vol. 14 — 12 



Sports and Games 

point is suddenly confronted by an opposing forward 
who rushes down the ice, he should skate toward his 
defence, watching that man and gradually closing in 
upon him. 

I am an advocate of legitimate body-checking, 
and consider that the most successful way of stopping 
a man who approaches alone is by blocking him — ob- 
structing his course in any way that does not violate 
Section 8. It requires less effort and is less dangerous 
to block an opponent than to "body" him. 

A forward player, nine times out of ten, or even 
oftener, will try to pass the cover-point by first feint- 
ing to the left, then dodging to the right. If this be 
remembered, the cover-point will not bother about 
that feint to the left, which is to his right, but will 
almost invariably expect to be passed on his left, or 
the forward's right, and will act accordingly. 

He should be careful to prevent a forward player 
who is advancing toward him from sliding the puck 
between his feet, a common and successful dodge, 
which, however, in its execution requires a good deal 
of confidence on the part of the man who attempts it. 

The puck should be stopped, from a lift, by the 
hand, and in such a way that it will drop "dead." 

In lifting the puck, attention should be given to 
direct it so that it shall not be sent to an opponent, but 
to the side or to an opening, in order to enable the 
forwards to follow it up and block the return. 

It is advisable for the defence to be so placed that 

342 



Ice Hockey 

if the cover-point is directly in front of the goal- 
minder the point will be either to the left or right, 
between the two, because they will thus all have a 
clear view of the play. On no occasion should the 
three defence men be in Indian file. 

A cover-point, in lifting the puck, should be 
guided by the positions of his players. If they are 
around his opponents' defence, he should quickly lift 
the puck in their direction, in order to keep the play 
in that territory. In this case he should lift, and not 
dribble or slide the puck, because a lift is more diffi- 
cult for his adversaries to secure. If his forwards are 
around his own defence and he is forced clear, he 
should shot the puck in such a direction that will 
cause his opponents the most trouble to recover it, 
thus enabling his forwards to follow up with a chance 
of securing the return. 

When the cover-point secures the puck, and only 
a short distance exists between himself and his for- 
wards, he should advance, pass the puck to them and 
bring them all into play, then return to his post. 

He should attempt an individual rush only when 
an exceptional opportunity offers itself. In the early 
part of a match the cover-point should not leave his 
position more than is absolutely necessary, but to- 
ward the end, when his opposing forwards are played 
out he may assume, to great advantage, a decidedly 
offensive position. 

The stick of a cover-point should be somewhat 

343 



sports and Games 

heavier than a forward's. It should be long In the 
handle, in order to increase a man's reach, and the 
blade should taper, becoming thinner toward the 
end, which aids in raising the puck. His dress and 
skates are the same as used by the forwards. 

IV. THE FORWARD 

The essentials of a forward are science, speed, 
coolness, endurance and stick-handling, which em- 
braces shooting, and the success of a forward line is 
combination play. Science and speeed are exercised 
at all times during the game; coolness is essential, es- 
pecially when a forward is near his opponents' goal; 
endurance is taxed in the second half of the match, 
stick-handling is a necessary quality whenever the 
player has the puck. 

The centre player, the right and the left wing men 
must stick closely to their positions, but the rover, as 
his name indicates, may use his judgment as to what 
particular place is most in need of extra help. If the 
defence be weak or crippled, the rover should lend 
his aid to that part of the team when he is not abso- 
lutely needed by the forwards, but he should also fol- 
low up every rush that is made by the latter. He 
should be the busiest man on the team, because, as a 
forward, he must attack, and follow up every attack 
on his opponents' goal; he should also be the particu- 
lar player to return to help his own defence against 
every rush by his adversaries. 

344 



Ice Hockey 

It is necessary that a forward should be in the 
"pink of condition," and that he should take great 
care of himself in practice, because even the slightest 
injury will proportionately lessen his usefulness. Be- 
sides the ordinary training, it is advisable to diet, in 
order to get into the proper condition. "Early to 
bed, early to rise," should be a player's maxim, be- 
cause sleep before midnight is much more beneficial 
than it is after that time. 

Dodging depends upon the ingenuity of a player, 
and no rule can be laid down to regulate the science, 
because each separate dodge must be adapted to the 
circumstances of his own and his opponents' positions. 

To resist a body-check a player should take care 
to make himself as solid on the ice as he can, but at 
the same time allowing the upper part of his body to 
remain limber, so that the shock may not be so 
strongly felt. When advancing toward a man who he 
knows is going to body-check him, a player should, 
on meeting him, slide the puck forward to such a 
place, and in such a manner, that after the encounter, 
he may have a better chance of recovering it. I 
think, however, that a clever forward can nearly al- 
ways avoid a body-check, because, advancing at a 
high rate of speed, he has the advantage over an op- 
ponent who awaits him. The forward should never 
body-check, because this exhausts his strength. 

The most successful shot for the goal is a lift 
which raises the puck only as high as the goal- 

345 



sports and Games 



minder's knee. A player should accustom himself to 
shoot from both sides. 

Most goals are scored on a rush, not from a scrim- 
mage, and for this reason it is advisable not to lose 
too much energy in tussling for the puck behind the 
goal-line. 

It is a mistake to attempt to score a game when too 
far removed from the goal, or at too great an angle 
to the side. 

The forwards should be careful not to "bunch," 
nor to crowd around the puck, which can be avoided 
if each man plays in his own position. 

A forward's dress and skates should be light. 

His stick should be strong, light and not too flexi- 
ble, having a long blade and handle, which will in- 
crease his reach. It should be made of second growth 
ash, which is the most serviceable wood, because it 
combines strength with lightness, and does not, like 
most other woods, absorb the water which frequently 
appears on the ice. When a player gets a stick that 
suits him, he should carefully note its particular 
points, so that when that one breaks, he may secure 
others of the same shape. A player should use the 
stick that he himself prefers, and should not be 
guided by the choice of others, although, of course, 
he should always look for an improvement of his 
own. 



346 



WAT E R POLO 

INTRODUCTION 
T^HE game of water polo has perhaps done more 
^ during recent years to popularize and to cause 
an interest to be taken in swimming than any other 
branch of aquatic sport. It is essentially a game for 
swimmers, and one that affords ample opportunity 
for the exhibition of skill and the development of 
staying power. Its practice tends to improve the 
speed of all those who participate in the pastime, as 
well as to inculcate in the minds of its followers good 
ideas as to the best methods of obtaining command 
over themselves in the water. In long-distance swims 
only one style of swimming is, as a rule, adopted, but 
in water polo the rapid changes of position which 
are necessary compel players to constantly alter their 
style. This is in itself a beneficial phase of the game, 
and one which teaches a swimmer how complete may 
become his power. 

INDIVIDUAL WORK OF THE PLAYERS 

Owing to the ever-varying methods necessary to 

good play, regular practice is important. It must not 

merely consist of the mere tossing of the ball here and 

there, the arrangement of friendly matches or other 

347 



Sports and Games 

impromptu scrimmages. A man who aspires to be 
an expert water poloist must devote considerable time 
to the study of the game. During the past few years 
the game has been far more scientifically played than 
it was at the outset. Up to 1888 the system prevalent 
was but an exhibition of brute strength. Dribbling, 
punting and passing the ball were things unknown,' 
except in very rare cases. 

A good plan is to divide a team up as follows : 
goal, two backs, half-back and two forwards. The 
office of captain is a very important one. But it is 
hardly necessary to say that he must be well versed in 
the rules of the game, but also those of the compe- 
tition in which his club may at the time be contend- 
ing. He should organize regular and frequent prac- 
tices, take careful note of the faults or merits of each 
individual player, and be careful that none of them, 
including himself, infringes the laws, or gives cause 
for complaint by another club. It is his duty to in- 
struct and advise the players on all points of the 
game, to teach them what positions they should take 
up in relation to each other so that the play of each 
of them may be effective, and 'to see that they do not 
leave their opponents free at any time for attack or 
defence. No selfishness in scoring should be allowed 
by him, and the urgent need of good combination 
plays should be frequently pointed out. Quick, short 
passing should be practiced rather than long shots, 
as to make a long shot effective one has to get into a 

348 



Water Polo 

certain position, and in doing so, time — an all im- 
portant essential in a fast game — is lost. 

The swiftness with the ball and accuracy of throw 
of each player should be individually tested by the 
captain before the man is admitted to the team. A 
player may have plenty of strength, but bad judg- 
ment in the use of it. Above all, absolute obedience 
to the captain's signs or orders must be insisted upon. 

Forwards. — The forwards must be good swim- 
mers who can catch a ball, quickly judge distances, 
pass, dribble, and shoot strongly and accurately. One 
of them should take up a position either on the right 
or left of the opponents' goal, but outside the pre- 
scribed limit. The other should take the opposite side 
but be a little further away from the goal. Both 
should always be on the alert for the ball, but in place 
of holding it, should make quick, short passes to each 
other, the ball in all cases being passed to the side 
furthest away from goal, and never direct into the 
other's hands, unless uncovered by the opposing back. 
If it be passed directly to a covered player, he will al- 
most to a surety be tackled with it; whereas, if it be 
passed on the outside of him he at once gets an oppor- 
tunity, if he be a fast swimmer, of clearing himself 
from the cover. The forwards should always hold 
themselves ready for a quick stroke or two, so as to 
clear; but this ability will come by practice. When 
dribbling the ball the forwards should clear on the 
outside and pass rapidly if likely to be tackled by an 

349 



Sports and Games 

opposing player. They should keep well up toward 
the opponents' goal. 

It is the duty of the forwards to keep free, as far 
as possible, from the opposing side, and when a change 
has taken place, owing to their opponents' defence 
play, to get back to position as quickly as possible. 
-Ihey should take care not to infringe the rule pro- 
hibiting a player from taking up a position within a 
yard of the opposing goal, and should also avoid 
placing themselves too far over to the side of the bath 
or field of play. When engaged in attacking, the op- 
posing back should in this case be hard pressed, com- 
pelled in self-defence to concede a corner. 

Half-Backs.~The half-back has the most onerous 
position on a team. With the forwards a certain 
amount of individual play is necessary, but a half- 
back must make combination the essential feature of 
his play. He must be ready to assist the attack at all 
times, and be as much in touch with his backs as pos- 
sible. If he keep cool, he will prove of immense 
service to his side. The forwards should be well fed 
by him, and left to score when able. It is only by a 
bare chance that a half-back can score, and in good 
matches the attack is spoiled if the half-back, instead 
of passing, selfishly tries to make a goal. He should 
be a good swimmer, well able to dribble or punt, and 
throw or pass with either hand under any conditions. 
At the starting of the game either the half-back or 
one of the forwards should be told off by the captain 

350 



Water Polo 

according to speed — the fastest swimmer for prefer- 
ence — to sprint for the ball, and if he obtain posses- 
sion to pass it back. If the centre forward be allotted 
this duty, he should pass to the half-back and then 
swim to his position, while the forwards are also tak- 
ing up their places. If the half-back has to go for 
the ball, he should pass to his backs and return to his 
proper place, which is some two or three yards in ad- 
vance of the backs. As soon as the backs receive the 
,ball, it should be held until the forwards are up in 
position, and then passed to them. Upon the play 
of the half-back greatly depends the success of the 
team, and a clear-headed, sure and swift swimmer 
should be appointed to fill this post. He must by 
practice learn to know instinctively the place of every 
man in the team, must never stand, and always be 
ready to accept a pass, no matter how fast it may 
come. 

Backs. — The backs should take up a position near 
to their opponents' forwards in order to prevent them 
from scoring, but they should never allow them to be 
between them and their own goal. They must closely 
watch them, and be ever ready to move rapidly when 
in danger. It is usual to appoint the heaviest men in 
the team as backs, but judgment must of course be 
used as to their capabilities; because it is better to 
have a strong defence and a weak attack than a weak 
defence and a strong attack. This is particularly no- 
ticeable when the game is played in open water. The 



sports and Games 

backs are very often called upon to save under very- 
difficult circumstances, as when hard pressed by 
speedier swimmers than themselves, and thus it is 
very necessary that they should keep close watch of 
their opponents. They should be somewhat tactical, 
be alive to the necessity of giving away a corner, or of 
passing to their goal-keeper when the goal is in dan- 
ger. They must be also capable of passing to one 
another, or else forward to the half-back. There must 
be no hesitation in their work. They should never 
leave their places after passing, or allow the opposing 
forwards to get away from them. Their passes 
should be short, so that the half-back may reach them 
easily. The work of the half-back and backs should 
be so regular and combined that the forwards may 
place confidence in them. This will prevent the lat- 
ter from leaving their own positions to assist in the 
defence. 

Goal-Keeper.— The position of goal-keeper is not 
eagerly sought after, and in many instances the post 
is given to a wretched swimmer. It is not difficult 
to find the reason of this. The goal-keeper has the 
cold and thankless task of keeping in one place dur- 
ing the game, and can not exercise himself by swim- 
ming. Men who can swim well are chary of having 
the arduous task thrown on them of guarding the 
goal, which is made doubly difficult if the team lack 
combination. Notwithstanding this a good swimmer 
should be appointed, and one well able to float and 

3S^ 



Water Polo 

support himself with his legs. To properly defend 
a goal requires skill, rapidity of action, keen judg- 
ment, quick and sure catching, and the ability to 
throw or punch out, immediately the ball comes, in 
a direction which will be of service to the side. If 
half a dozen forwards are put on for shooting prac- 
tice, each with a ball, the goal-keeper's play will sen- 
sibly improve after a very short time, as he will 
thereby become accustomed to exercise judgment, 
and also quickness of sight. One thing which often 
happens to a goal-keeper is a sudden obscuration of 
sight after going under water. This can be at once 
remedied by rubbing the eyelids, and thus preventing 
the water remaining on the body from dropping over 
the eyes. To all players this hint may be of service. 
When likely to be tackled by the opposing forwards 
the goal-keeper should pass out to the backs quickly. 
He must never get flurried, or a goal is certain to be 
scored against him. 

HOW TO THROW THE BALL 
As may be easily imagined, ability to throw the 
ball and pass it accurately only comes with practice, 
and no amount of description will assist a feeble 
player. A few hints as to the various methods may, 
however, be useful. 

If, when using the breast stroke, the player wishes 
to pass the ball back, the hand should be placed un- 
der it and the arm quickly raised. As soon as the 

353 



Sports and Games 

arm is above the surface, it is thrown over the head 
rapidly, and the ball forced to travel high or low, ac- 
cording to the distance and direction in which it is re- 
quired to be sent. Either hand can be used, but it is 
always best to throw with the arm which is furthest 
away from the nearest opponent. When throwing, a 
stroke with the legs should be taken, and the disen- 
gaged arm forced downward, to stop the slip given 
to the body by the throw. If this be done well, it will 
enable the player to apply more force to the throw or 
pass. 

The throw from the shoulder or side of the head 
is a very old plan, and is generally used when a de- 
liberate shot can be taken. The ball is picked up and 
carried to the shoulder, being somewhat after the 
fashion of a shot-put in athletic competitions. It is 
rested against the side of the head for accuracy of 
aim and the better send-off that is obtainable, and is 
then sent forward with as much force as possible. 
The legs and disengaged hand are driven down rap- 
idly in the water, and the body shot forward as the 
aim is taken. 

Another breast-stroke pass is that from side to side 
with either hand when outstretched. The hand is 
turned with the palm outward, and placed under the 
ball, which is at once lifted out. This is a valuable 
pass when pressed, especially if it can be done with 
right or left hand. 

The pass, when swimming on the side, is man- 

354 



Water Polo 

aged by placing the hand under the ball. In this po- 
sition it can be thrown straight back, and, with prac- 
tice, to the blind side of the body as well as out to the 
other side. To pass to the blind side, the arm, when it 
raises with the ball, must be rapidly forced over the 
body, and the impetus to the ball given from the 
lower part of the forearm, wrist and hand. Many 
players can perform this difficult pass so accurately 
as to know almost exactly in what part of the tank the 
ball will fall, 

There is plenty of scope for a back-swimmer at 
water polo, especially when long shots are required. 
The body is thrown back, and the arm outstretched. 
As the legs are closed, the arm shoots forward, and 
the ball is driven at a great pace. 

As before stated, the "Trudgeon" stroke offers the 
best opportunities for a brilliant water polo player. 
The over-arm pass can be done with either hand, and 
the ball placed without the player having to turn 
round for aim. The arms are so placed that the pass 
out to right or left can be accomplished instantly, 
and the disengaged arm and legs used to maintain 
steadiness. With the "Trudgeon" stroke the ball 
may be punted rapidly up or across the path, the 
player at the same time being free from tackling, be- 
cause in punting the ball is driven forward by either 
hand, as the player swims, and is not held. This 
stroke is again of essential service in dribbling, which 
is accomnlished by allowing the ball to get between 

3SS 



Sports and Games 



1 



the arms. Then, as the swimmer progresses, the ball 
goes with him, it hitting first one arm and then the 
other, or the chin, but not getting out from between 
the arms. 

There are many other little points of the game 
which come naturally after a time. The sending out 
of play into touch, if we may use the term, is some- 
times of use, although it requires judgment. 



350 



TABLE TENNIS 

nPABLE TENNIS, Whiff-Whaff, Pom-Pom, 
Ping-Pong or any other name which an inven- 
tive mind can think of, are all played alike; there 
is absolutely no difference of any description in the 
tables on which they are played, the racquets, the 
balls, the nets, or in the rules which govern them. 
The game originated in Japan, and has been played 
there on and off for nearly two thousand years; it 
was introduced into England some years ago under 
the name of Whiff- Whaff, but did not take well, as 
no one seemed, at that time, to realize the amount of 
skill necessary to play the game well, and it was not 
until 1900 that it became popular, and its popularity 
can be directly traced to the substitution of celluloid 
balls in place of the rubber ones with which the game 
had been previously played. With celluloid balls 
the possibilities of the game were increased a thou- 
sand-fold, and a game which, with the old rubber 
balls, had been considered at the best only fit for chil- 
dren and old women, developed into one of the most 
skilful games played with a ball. 

There are two associations in England — The 
Table Tennis Association, the championship meet- 

357 



Sports and Games 

ings of which have been held at the Royal Aquarium, 
and the Ping-Pong Association, with its champion- 
ships decided at the Queen's Hall. It seems a pity, 
of course, that there should be two associations un- 
der different names, both playing exactly the same 
game under the same rules, but it is owing to the fact 
that Messrs. John Jaques & Son and Hamley Bros, 
own the copyright, and in England, unless with their 
consent, no, one is allowed to use the word Ping- 
Pong. Table tennis seems to be a much more sensi- 
ble name, as it is lawn tennis played on a table, and 
although no one ever uses the courts which are 
marked out on the table as a variation for a foursome, 
it makes rather an interesting game. 

Ping-Pong received its name from the sounds 
which the banjo head of the racquets gave out when 
striking the little celluloid balls, and as now not one 
man in a hundred plays with anything except a 
wooden racquet, the appropriateness of the name 
seems to have been done away with. There is almost 
as much argument now as to the rival merits of 
wooden, vellum, cork, leather covered, sandpapered 
faces, gut and metal racquets as there used to be over 
the merits and demerits of different heads of golf 
clubs, but a great deal of the talk is nonsense, and the 
best are most assuredly the wooden ones, at least the 
writer has never found any one who was not perfectly 
willing to discard his old vellum or gut racquet as 
soon as he tried a wooden one. 

35^ 



Table Tennis 

RULES 

The game is for two players. They shall stand 
one at each end of the table. The player who first 
delivers the ball shall be called the server, and the 
other the striker-out. 

At the end of the first game, the striker-out shall 
becom.e the server, and the server shall become the 
striker-out, and so on alternately. 

The service shall be strictly underhand, and de- 
livered from behind the end of the table. 

The ball served must drop anywhere on the table- 
top beyond the net, and is then in play. If it drop 
into the net or off the table, it counts to the striker- 
out 

There is no second service, as in lawn tennis. 
In serving, it is a let if the ball touch the net in 
passing over. 

If the ball in play strikes any object above or 
round the table before it bounces on the table-top 
itself (net or post excepted), it counts against the 
player. 

The server wins a stroke if the striker-out fails to 
return the service, or return the service or ball in play 
off the table. 

The striker-out wins a stroke if the server serve a 
fault, or fails to return the ball in play, or return the 
ball in play so that it falls off the table. 

No volleying is allowed; but as long as the ball 
touches the table-top it is in play, and can be taken at 

ZS9 



sports and Games 

half volley. The striker-out loses a point if he takes 
the ball on the volley. 

Scoring. — On either player winning his first 
stroke, the score is called 15 for that player; on either 
player winning his second stroke the score is called 
30 for that player; on either player winning his third 
stroke, the score is called 40 for that player; and the 
fourth stroke won by either player is scored game for 
that player except as below. 

If both players have won three strokes (40 all), 
the score is called deuce ; and the next stroke won by 
either player is scored advantage to that player. If 
the same player win the next stroke, he wins the 
game; if he loses the next stroke, the score is again 
called deuce, and so on, until either player wins the 
two strokes immediately following the score of deuce, 
when the game is scored for that player. 

The player who first wins six games wins a set. 

The game may also be scored by points, twenty 
up. The players, in this case, change the service af- 
ter every five points scored, like "overs" at cricket, 
and they set three at (19 all), the player who first 
wins three strokes, winning the game. Best of three 
games counts. 

PLAYING THE GAME 

When serving stand about a yard and a half be- 
hind the table, and remember, the service must be un- 
derhand and the wrist must not be above the level 

360 



Table Tennis 

of the waist. Grasp your racquet close to the head 
and put your thumb down the centre of the racquet 
for backhand play, and your fingers down the back 
for forehand strokes. By doing this, you have perfect 
control over the racquet and your hand follows your 
wrist, and as the whole game is practically wrist play, 
you can readily see how important it is that your 
wrist and the racquet shall work together as closely 
as possible. When striking the ball, if you hold the 
racquet straight up and down and at the moment of 
striking draw it sharply upward, you will serve a 
"drop" ball, which, when it strikes the table on the 
opposite side of the net, will shoot forward very 
quickly. If you draw the racquet across the ball 
from left to right, it will make it break almost at 
right angles to your opponent's right; if you draw 
it from right to left, it will break to his left; and if 
you hold your racquet parallel to the floor and draw 
it across the ball laterally, it will break straight back 
into the net or toward it. Half-volleying is very 
necessary in order to get the ball up, but it is a purely 
defensive stroke, and the strokes which count are 
made after the ball has bounced and you can return 
it hard. Placing is the A B C of the game and you 
have to keep watching your opponent all the time, 
and try to return the ball wherever you think he is 
least expecting it. Although you are only allowed to 
serve underhand, you can smash the ball with an 
overhand stroke any time after the service. 

361 



sports and Games 

You can use any kind of a racquet — gut, vellum, 
wood, cork, wood covered with sand-paper, or scored 
up in any kind of a way with the idea of imparting 
twist to the ball, but when it comes down to real play, 
and it is necessary to get the very best results, there is 
only one kind to use, and that is plain wood, with a 
nearly round face and a very short, thick handle; if 
you have never tried one, do so, and your game is im- 
mediately 50 per cent better; there is absolutely no 
comparison with any other kind. The average weight 
of a wooden racquet is about five ounces, and the balls 
are made of celluloid. 



36^ 



BOWLING 

T^HE game of bowling, which at the present time 
^ is about the most popular winter sport of the 
country, is also one of the oldest games known to the 
civilized world. Our ancestors hundreds of years 
ago indulged in a pastime, which, excepting a few 
radical changes during the last century or so, was 
materially the same as our present game of bowling 
and seems to have been just as popular. 

Bowling seems to have originated early in the 
Middle Ages. It was at that time a purely outdoor 
game. As was the rule with everything of that 
period, the sport was known by a variety of names. It 
was called "bowles," French "boules" and "carreau." 
These three names seem to have been the most com- 
mon, but there were others, quite a number purely 
local. As played at that time, the game was very dif- 
ferent from our present sport, but there was much 
similarity. The game was played with sides or 
teams, as to-day. The balls or bowls were made of 
stone, one-half spherical, the other half oval shape. 
This gave the ball a curve, which appears to have 
been very desirable as it sped down the bowling 
green. The scene of the game was a plot of ground 
called a rink or bowling green. At each end was 

3^3 



Sports and Games 

placed a cone, which was the mark for the bowlers. 
The cones were bowled from one end of the rink and 
then from the other. As in the game of quoits or 
"horseshoes," the object of the game was for one side 
to place their ball nearer the cone than their adver- 
saries. The side bowling last would, of course, try 
to knock the opponents' ball away from the cone, 
supplanting it with their own, the one nearest the 
cone scoring a point for his side. Skill was required 
to bowl in such a way as to curve around an oppo- 
nent's bowl, so as to get nearer the cone without 
knocking the other ball closer. Later, the stone bowl 
was supplanted by one made of lignum-vitae. The 
latter was made perfectly spherical, the outside of 
the tree being lighter than the heart, naturally gave 
the bowl the desired bias, though often one side of 
the ball was loaded with lead to obtain the desired 
effect. The cones were finally done away with, and 
superseded by a stone or earthen ball about three 
and a half inches in diameter, and known as a "jack." 
Instead of having a stationary mark at which to bowl, 
the jack was knocked all over the green, while strat- 
egy and skill were required to play a good game. 

The bowling green of that period was one of the 
most cared for spots about a village or an estate. A 
plot of ground as level as it was possible to find was 
picked out for it. Draining was the first process in 
the making. This was done in such a thorough man- 
ner that even the hardest rains would not soak the 

364 



Bowling 

ground and put it in a muddy condition. After 
draining properly it was rolled, the grass kept cut to 
the proper length, and, by the most assiduous care, 
this spot would be made as hard and level as a table. 
The size of the plot was usually about 90 x 150 feet, 
surrounded by a ditch or gutter four or five inches 
deep. During the reign of Queen Anne and the 
first three Georges, a bowling green was as popular 
and necessary an adjunct to a gentleman's country 
seat as a billiard table is to-day. Usually this plot of 
ground was surrounded by evergreens, which kept 
the grass from being scorched by the burning rays of 
the sun, as well as protecting the spectators and play- 
ers. In m.any places this formed one of the most 
picturesque spots about a well-kept park or garden, 
though very frequently it was situated in close prox- 
imity to the dining-room, from which it could be 
reached by a flight of stairs leading from a glass door 
or bay window. As an after-dinner sport of our 
burly British and Dutch ancestors, it was very popu- 
lar, aiding in the digestion of their heavy meals of 
that time, consisting principally of beef and pudding, 
lubricated with heavy ale and potent punch. 

The game was first introduced into America 
early in the eighteenth century, and possibly the lat- 
ter part of the seventeenth. It seems to have been 
very popular in New York early in the eighteenth 
century. An old map of that city of the date 1728 
shows a bowling green on the north side of the public 

3^S 



Sports and Games 

garden situated near the King's farm, near the foot 
of Murray and Warren Streets. Also in 1732, the 
locality called Bowling Green, at the foot of Broad- 
way, and known by the same name at the present 
day, was leased from the city government and laid 
out as a public bowling green. From the time that 
the sport was introduced into America it has really 
never died out, though the outdoor game has long 
since given way to the indoor game. 

As an indoor sport the game originated from sev- 
eral games, cayles, French quilles, skittles, loggetts, 
and sayles being the most prominent. In cayles and 
loggetts conical shaped pins made of bone were set 
up in rows of six or eight, and the players tried to 
knock them down by hurling clubs of "sheepe's 
joyntes" at them. Knocking the pins down by bowl- 
ing a ball at them came at a later period. In the 
game of carreau, the players bowled at a fixed mark, 
which in skayles, closh, French quilles, clossynge, 
kittles, skittles, Dutch pins, four corners, half bowl, 
rolly-poUy and ninepins the marks bowled at were 
pins similar to those of the present day and bowled at 
with a ball. The games were immensely popular for 
a long time, until some laws were passed prohibit- 
ing ninepins and similar games. For a while this 
stopped the game, but it did not die out. The ob- 
jectionable features were cut out, and instead of nine 
pins set up in diamond frame, ten pins were set up in 
a triangular frame. 

1,66 



Bowling 

The first mention of a game being played in- 
doors on a covered alley is found in William Fitz- 
Stephens' Survey of London, about the twelfth cen- 
tury. The first record of a match game played in- 
doors in America was a game played on the Knicker- 
bocker alleys in New York City on January i, 1840. 
Since that time the game has continued to grow in 
popular favor. 

Until 1875, when clubs became very numerous, 
there was much diversity as to the length of the al- 
leys and the size of the pins and balls, as no standard 
had ever been adopted. Before that time the pins 
used were larger and heavier than the ones used now, 
and it was a much easier matter to knock all the pins 
down by hitting only one or two, making the score of 
300 the limit. In 1875 a large number of bowders, 
representing most of the cities of this country, held a 
meeting and adopted rules and regulations, which at 
that time answered the purpose. For the next ten or 
fifteen years, or up to 1890, bowling was a sort of "go 
as you please" game. In the East they played under 
the rules of the National Bowling League, while in 
the West, where a sudden boom started, any rule 
went. Under these conditions the boom west of the 
Alleghenies lived but a few years. In 1895, ^^ with 
the birth of the American Bowling Congress, which 
at once wiped out the old rules and substituted new 
ones, which brought the playing of the game down to 
a somewhat scientific order, things began to wake up 

367 



sports and Games 

again and the bowler from that day to this has been 
looked upon as an important factor not only in sport- 
ing circles but in social circles as well. The agitators 
of the Congress tried hard to interest their former 
Western brethren in the sport, but it was no easy task. 
A New York team was then organized, made a short 
tour of the West, and found but very little interest in 
the game and some exceptionally poor alleys. The 
trip, however,, had its desired effect, for the wide- 
awake Westerners at once came to the conclusion that 
under the new conditions the game could be made a 
go. The narrow alleys gave way to wider ones. The 
old solid ball was replaced by one with finger holes 
and the i8 and 1 6-inch pins gave way to those of 
regulation sizes. Good scores and rare sport was the 
result of the changes, wherever they were made, and 
the game has now come to stay. 

HOW TO BOWL 
There are about as many opinions on this sub- 
ject as there are grains of sand on the seashore, all 
of which are worthy of some commendation. The 
physical anatomy of bowlers makes it almost compul- 
sory that each should adapt himself or herself to the 
style best fitted to them. Now it will be the object 
at the beginning to learn how to properly handle a 
ball. These balls vary in weight from one to fifteen 
pounds, and from the size of a baseball to a ball 
twenty-seven inches in circumference. It hardly ap- 

368 



Bowling 

pears necessary to warn the novice about the folly of 
beginning with the largest balls; it is an unwritten 
law of physical culture to begin with light weight 
first and gradually increase it; this every athlete will 
respect; but bowling is different and, while the same 
rule applies with equal force, there seems to be an 
all-powerful inclination to begin with heavy balls. 
This has the effect of straining the nerves in the back, 
arms and legs, and gives the novice the feeling next 
morning that he must have run up against something 
hard during the night. He also finds after an hour's 
steady practice that the ball is very stubborn, and that 
he has made little or no progress. Stick to the small 
ball until you acquire that familiarity with it which 
will assure you a certain amount of gracefulness as 
well as accuracy. In lifting a ball from the runway 
don't grab it with both hands, one hand is plenty 
strong enough to handle it. Turn the ball over until 
the holes in it are facing upward, insert the thumb 
and second finger and lift it from its position, letting 
the arm hang naturally by the side. Then walk to 
the position you desire behind the foul line. If you 
are inclined to roll a side or cross ball, naturally take 
up your place at the right-hand side of the alley; if 
you are a left-handed bowler, the left-hand side 
should then be used. Step back about nine feet, 
holding the ball with both hands against the chest, or 
downward about opposite the knee; then draw an 
imaginary line by a glance of the eye from the head 

369 



Sports and Games 

pin to the foul line; then start slowly until you have 
acquired the knack of getting the ball down toward 
the pins without it going into the gutter. This can 
be done with but very little practice. To the player 
whose desire it is to begin bowling by rolling a centre 
ball, the same will hold good, that is, draw an imagi- 
nary line from either side of the head pin to the foul 
line, as the one object should be not to hit the head 
pin full in the centre, but a little to either side, so as 
to avoid some difficult plays. Whichever style a nov- 
ice adopts it should not be departed from, if an im- 
provement is desired. Before stepping up to the run- 
way for a ball, the soles of the shoes, unless tennis or 
rubber-soled ones are worn, should be well chalked 
from the chalk-box at the head of the alleys; this will 
prevent any possibility of slipping while delivering 
the ball. 

Don't take a ball from the runway while another 
ball is on its way down; this will prevent the fingers 
from being smashed between two balls. 

Don't try to learn all about bowling in one day. 

Don't use too much speed at first. 

Don't grip the ball too tight. It's not going to get 
away from you. 

Don't lift or throw the ball, roll it. 

Don't swing the ball too often before delivering 
it. This will cause you to lose all accuracy. 

Don't start with a jump; walk one and run tw^ 
steps. 

370 



Bowling 

Don't deliver the ball with the right foot in front. 

Don't step on or over the foul line. 

Don't think you can change the course of the ball 
after it has left your hand. 

Don't expect a "strike" every time. 

Don't throw away a "spare" because you think 
you were entitled to a "strike." 

Mr. W. V. Thompson, one of Chicago's best roll- 
ers, and who has already won championships in all 
parts of the country, has this to say about beginners: 

"Of course, any one can learn to bowl. Let all 
beginners step back from the foul line five steps. 
Stand erect, face the pins and let the weight of the 
ball rest on your left hand; take a firm grip with the 
right hand, swing the ball and see if the grip is all 
right. Now, don't run, just walk fast four steps, 
starting with your right foot, and deliver the ball 
with the left foot in front. Do not bend your arm or 
your back; keep your feet far apart and bend your 
knees. Form an imaginary line to the right side of 
the head pin and bowl on that line. Do not force the 
ball at first, you will have speed to burn in a week. 
Get the swing and delivery and you will get the pins." 



371 



BASKETBALL FOR WOMEN 

jg ASKETBALL was invented by Dr. James Nai- 
smith, about January of 1892. It was invented 
particularly for the Y. M. C. A. Training School, at 
Springfield, Mass., and in all probability Dr. Nai- 
smith had no idea it would ever be played by women. 
However, directors of gymnasia for women saw 
at once that it was, perhaps, the game they were 
eagerly seeking— one that should not have the rough 
element of football, yet should be a quick, spirited 
game— should cultivate strength and physical endur- 
ance, and should be interesting enough to become a 
part of physical training for women as football and 
baseball are for men. They saw at once that it had 
many elements of success required for such a game 
and forthwith attempted it as part of their gymnastic 
work. Its success proved far beyond their expecta- 
tions. It was only necessary to try it to have it be- 
come most popular wherever it was played. The 
colleges for women found it a boon. The physical 
training schools took it up, and their women gradu- 
ates spread it all over the country. To-day there are 
few gymnasia for women where basketball is not a 
part of their curriculum, and hundreds of basketball 
teams are formed yearly in all our cities by women 

372 



Basketball for Women 

who play the game at regular times during the win- 
ter. It is by far the most popular game that women 
play. 

THE PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS 
By Luther Gulick, M.D. 

It is not my purpose to discuss the details of team - 
play, nor to explain especial plays or formations. I 
desire to call attention to the bearings of the psy- 
chology of team-play upon some of the more funda- 
mental matters concerning the nature of woman and 
her place in our civilization. 

By team-play I mean the play of individuals in 
such a way as to advance the interests of the team as 
contrasted with the interests of the individual. To il- 
lustrate: a player (A) has the ball and can throw for 
goal, or she can pass the ball to a player (B) nearer 
to the goal and having a better opportunity to cage 
the ball. Individual interest will lead (A) to throw 
for the goal. She may take it, and thus win for her- 
self the credit for a brilliant play. This is one of 
the faults of beginners and always of selfish players. 
If (A) looks mainly to the interests of the team, she 
must forego her own chance for prominence and must 
play the ball to (B) who will secure from the crowd 
the credit, much of which in this case really belongs 
to (A). In case (A) throws directly for the goal and 
makes it, she is not thereby justified in the play; she 
should be censured by the coach or captain. In the 

373 

Vol. 14—13 



Sports and Games 

long run such a player, who puts her own interests 
above that of the team, will prove a detriment to the 
team. 

Team-work means the frequent subordination of 
self-interests to the interests of the team. The indi- 
vidual shines mainly in the general glory of the 
team. 

The single instance given is but a simple illustra- 
tion of what characterizes basketball. A team of 
moderate players, but who play well together, who 
play a strong team game, will defeat a team of ex- 
perts who play each one for himself. This has been 
repeatedly demonstrated. It was clearly shown in 
the national championships in which a team of the 
best of experts was beaten for two years by teams 
whose individual players did not excel, but whose 
team-work was better. 

This subject of team-play has most important 
bearings. The necessity for team-play is character- 
istic of baseball, football, cricket, and a few subsid- 
iary games, such as lacrosse, hockey, etc. It is not 
characteristic of track and field sports, nor of any 
other great national sports. These games demanding 
team-play are played by Anglo-Saxon peoples, and 
by these peoples alone, and may thus be said to be a 
differentiating characteristic of the Anglo-Saxon 
adolescent male. 

It is also important to notice that these games are 
not played till the teens are reached. Little boys may 

374 



Basketball for Women 

play these games, but they rarely play more than an 
individual game; real team-work is rare among them. 
This fact acquires significance when we remember 
that during adolescence great psychological changes 
occur in the boy, among which the growth of altruism 
is prominent. 

What is its nature? What are the mental and 
moral demands of team-work? They are, of course, 
higher than those of individual play. One may or 
may not choose to use the word altruism in such a 
relation, but this loyalty to the team when such 
loyalty puts self in the background certainly is made 
out of the same kind of stuff as is altruism. It is 
loyalty to a larger unit than self. It is, ethically, of 
a higher order than is individual play. This team 
loyalty is very like the tribal loyalty of early savage 
life. Those tribes in whom the men were loyal to the 
tribe, even more than to self, would, other things be- 
ing equal, conquer those who were still on the indi- 
vidual plane. The deep nature of the instinct that 
has led to the development of these games is thus 
shown. 

My experience and observation ever since Mr. 
Naismith invented the game is that it is more difficult 
to get women to do team-work than it is to get men 
to do so. In what way may this be explained? It 
is idle to say that men are more self-sacrificing than 
are women. A comparative study of men's and 
women's relation to their children is ample evidence 

375 



Sports and Games 

on this point. What facts may be explanatory? Boys 
play games in a way that girls do not. Boys play on 
the street, and have a kind of rough and "give and 
take" education among their fellows that is far more 
intense than is the corresponding education of girls. 
But this is insufficient to account for the marked dif- 
ference in the interest and adaptability that women 
seem to have for team games. In cases that I have 
seen where there has been equal opportunity for girls 
to acquire the team spirit, they have not acquired 
it to anything like the same extent that boys have. 
We must look deeper than the mere circumstances of 
early environment to account for this phenomena. 
In a careful study of boys' gangs, not yet published, 
that has been made by Mr. T. J. Browne, this spirit 
of loyalty to the team, or loyalty to the gang, has been 
worked out with thoroughness. He has shown that 
most boys during adolescence form spontaneous 
groups that often maintain their personnel for years, 
exerting a great influence upon the life of the indi- 
vidual. The boy will be loyal to the group to which 
he belongs often more than he will to even his 
own parents. One finds corresponding spontaneous 
grouping among girls, but not to the same extent, nor 
are the societies so persistent nor so inclusive of all 
the interests of the individual. 

Another class or group of facts that would de- 
mand investigation bearing upon this general topic is 
the treatment that women give each other on the 

376 



Basketball for Women 

street, in the electric car, and while shopping. It is 
a matter of common comment, for which there must 
be a modicum of ground, that women are more often 
inconsiderate of each other as strangers than are men. 
I do not attempt to justify the comment, but suggest 
the line of inquiry. 

It is a patent fact also that men form societies to 
an indefinitely larger extent than do women ; not only 
secret societies, but societies for all sorts of purposes. 
Man's life appears to take more naturally to organi- 
zation than does woman's. Man's life appears to be 
related more to loyalty to groups, while the woman's 
life seems to be more related to loyalty to the home 
and its interests. Geddes & Thomson, Fiske, Drum- 
mond, and others, have called attention to the great 
significance of the maternal instinct in the develop- 
ment of altruism in the individual, and indeed main- 
tain that this instinct is the tap root of altruism in the 
race. Without going into an extended discussion of 
the matter, I wish to call attention to the fact that the 
kind of altruism displayed by men is more related to 
teams or groups than it is to the family, while the al- 
truism of women does dominate with reference to 
husband and children and the more remote relations 
that constitute the larger family. 

This apparent large digression I have entered 
into in order that we might see the significance of the 
discipline that comes to woman through the playing 
of such a game as basketball. When it is done in a 

377 



sports and Games 

thoroughly scientific way with primary attention to 
team-work, it calls for qualities that are rather un- 
usual, or at least calls for these qualities to an unusual 
extent. 

We are in a time of great unrest in regard to the 
status of woman. She is entering many lines of work 
that hitherto have been carried on entirely by men. 
We are hearing such brilliant voices as that of Mrs. 
Stetson, who voices and brings to consciousness the 
feelings of many women. Whatever may be the out- 
come of this time of unrest, there certainly must grow 
among women a kind of loyalty to each other, of 
loyalty to the groups in which they naturally are 
formed, that is greater than obtains at present. 
Loyalty to the team and the playing of team-work ap- 
pears to me to be no mean factor in the development 
and expression of this quality upon which our civi- 
lization rests — the capacity for co-operation, the ca- 
pacity for being willing to set aside a part even of 
one's own rights in order to win the larger benefits of 
co-operative endeavor. 



There is a great physiological use of games like 
basketball in physical training. Gymnastic work ex- 
cels all other work in corrective value, and is needed 
in the conditions of our modern school life for this 
reason. There can also be no doubt that it can and as 

378 



Basketball for Women 

far as possible, ought to be given so as to train a cer- 
tain amount of what is called endurance; that is, the 
ability to maintain moderate work for long periods of 
time, or vigorous work for fairly long periods of 
time. But gymnastics is not a convenient, and it is 
very doubtful if it is ever a practical means of doing 
all in this direction that an all-round physical train- 
ing demands. With the exception of marching and 
running, gymnasium work involves rather the vigor- 
ous use of muscles for very short periods at a time 
rather than the continuance of muscular activity for 
longer periods of time. It is the latter form of work 
which adds up most in the end, and produces the 
largest quantities of carbon-dioxide, and so calls on 
the heart and the respiratory apparatus for most vig- 
orous work. And this very vigorous work is the only 
means of training the heart and respiratory apparatus 
to that degree of strength and endurance which en- 
able them to meet any demand that the conditions of 
life may make upon them. This, of itself, is a strong 
reason for the use of such exercises, of which no bet- 
ter example can be found than basketball. 

We can refer only in the most general way to the 
hygienic effect of such vigorous exercise; that is, the 
effect in maintaining health each day. Muscular ex- 
ercise is one of the physiological conditions of health ; 
it produces conditions in the organism without which 
its Inherited structure can not maintain for long a 
healthy life. These physiological conditions are 

379 



sports and Games 

numerous and complicated ; one of them, however, is 
so closely connected with what has already been ex- 
plained that it may be used as an example of the rest: 
The increased breathing movements make them- 
selves felt beneficially in all parts of the body, aiding 
in the flow of the nutrient fluids (lymph) around the 
cells and so in the nutrition of the living units of the 
organism. The man or woman who does nothing to 
induce vigorous breathing is running a far greater 
hygienic risk than when one drinks a glass of water 
from the notoriously bad water supply of some of our 
American cities. 

There is a third important physiological effect of 
such games. In the history of individual develop- 
ment no fact is so plainly written as that "whatsoever 
a man soweth, that shall he also reap." Especially is 
this true of the nervous system which requires effi- 
cient control over the movements of the body only as 
the body carries out, over and over again, such move- 
ments as demand the most rapid and complicated 
response on the part of the nervous system; and it 
requires but a moment's reflection to see that these 
games meet these requirements to a remarkable ex- 
tent, probably, indeed, as nothing else does. The 
writer has heard of a case where it became necessary 
for two young ladies who had played basketball to 
dodge a runaway horse, which they did successfully. 
They themselves believe that they would not have es- 
caped uninjured except for having played a game of 

380 



Basketball for Women 

the kind. The cautious scientist is slow in express- 
ing an opinion on a specific case of this kind, but he 
need have no hesitancy in asserting that such games 
train to a remarkable degree the power of the nerv- 
ous system to do the right thing at the right time in 
order to meet sudden and unexpected situations ; and 
this is a kind of muscular control which it is well 
worth while to acquire. 

We may sum up the results of the previous discus- 
sion as follows: Basketball involves a large amount of 
work with a proportionately small element of con- 
scious fatigue. It consequently makes larger de- 
mands on the heart and other organs of respiration 
than the player realizes, and in this lies its danger. 
This danger can be successfully avoided, however, by 
proper attention to training and by proper regulation 
of the game itself ; indeed, we may add that few other 
games can be so easily regulated to meet this end. 
When so regulated, it is in every way a good thing for 
the heart which it trains to strength and endurance. 
It moreover trains the co-ordinating nerve centres to 
a high degree of muscular control, and, above all, it 
is a most efficient agent in producing those general 
hygienic effects of muscular exercise which consti- 
tute the chief reason for the use of muscular exercise 
at all. 



381 



LAWN TENNIS 

¥ N treating of Tennis I shall not go into any except 
•■■ the simple game of Lawn Tennis. Court Tennis 
and Rackets deserve books of their own, owing to 
the greater complication of the play. 

A lawn tennis court may be either scalped or 
turfed, the former being the bare ground without 
any grass, the other the ideal of the English lawn. 
The game requires a space of, at least, one hundred 
feet by forty, although the court itself is only seventy- 
eight feet long and twenty-seven feet wide. By ref- 
erence to the accompanying diagram, the following 
description will show how the court is laid out. 

It is a parallelogram, and, as already stated, 
seventy-eight feet long and twenty-seven feet wide. 
Across the middle is a net supported by two posts, 
this net being three feet six inches high at the posts, 
and three feet high in the middle. This net, there- 
fore, is thirty-nine feet from each end of the court. 
The lines at the end are called the base lines. On 
each side of the net and twenty-one feet from it, and 
parallel with the base lines, are drawn two other 
lines across the court. These are called the service 
lines. These two lines are connected by a line 
through the middle of the court parallel with the 

382 



Lawn Tennis 

side lines. This completes the marking of the 
court. 

The game is played with a rubber ball covered 
with felt, measuring not less than two and one-half 
inches, nor more than two and nine-sixteenths in 
diameter and weighing not less than one and fifteen- 
sixteenths ounces, nor more than two ounces. The 
players use rackets made of wood strung with cat- 
gut to bat this ball back and forth across the net. 
The game may be played by two, three or four. 
Where two play on a side the court is extended to 
thirty-six feet in width, but four and one-half feet 
inside the side lines, and parallel wth them, are 
drawn the service lines. In a three-handed game, 
a single player plays in a single court, while the 
two others are in a court lined for doubles. In a 
four-handed game, both courts, are, of course, double 
courts. The rules of the game follow: 

The choice of sides, and the right to serve in the 
first game, shall be decided by toss; provided that, 
if the winner of the toss choose the right to serve, the 
other player shall have the choice of sides, and vice 
versa, or the winner of the toss may insist upon a 
choice by his opponent. If one player choose the 
court, the other may elect not to serve. 

The players shall stand on opposite sides of 
the net; the player who first delivers the ball 
shall be called the server, and the other the striker- 
out. 

383 



Sports and Games 

At the end of the first game the striker-out shall 
become server, and the server shall become striker- 
out; and so on alternately in all the subsequent 
games of the set and following sets. 

The server shall serve with both feet behind; i.e., 
further from the net than the base line. It is not a 
fault if one of the server's feet does not touch the 
ground at the moment at which the service is de- 
livered. He shall place both feet on the ground 
immediately before serving, and shall not take a 
running or walking start. He shall deliver the ser- 
vice from the right and left courts alternately, 
beginning from the right. 

The ball served must drop between the service 
line, half-court line, and side line of the court, 
diagonally opposite to that from which it was 
served. 

It is a fault if the server fails to strike the ball, 
or if the ball served drop in the net, or beyond the 
service line, or out of court, or in the wrong court; 
or if the server does not stand as directed by previous 
law. 

After a fault, the server shall serve again from 
the same court from which he served that fault, un- 
less it was a fault because he served from the wrong 
court. 

A fault can not be claimed after the next service 
is delivered. 

The server shall not serve till the striker-out is 

384 



Lawn Tennis 

ready. If the latter attempt to return the service, 
he shall be deemed ready. 

A service or fault delivered when the striker-out 
is not ready, counts for nothing. 

The service shall not be volleyed; that is, taken, 
before it has touched the ground. 

A ball is in play on leaving the server's racket, 
except as provided for in law^, and remains in play 
till the stroke is decided. 

It is a good return, although the ball touch the 
net; but a service, otherwise good, which touches 
the net, shall count for nothing. 

The server wins a stroke, if the striker-out volley 
the service; or if he fail to return the service or the 
ball in play; or if he return the service or the ball 
in play so that it drops outside of his opponent's 
court; or if he otherwise lose a stroke, as provided 
by subsequent law. 

The striker-out wins a stroke, if the server 
serve two consecutive faults; or if he fail to return 
the ball in play; or if he return the ball in play so 
that it drops outside of his opponent's court; or if 
he otherwise lose a stroke, as provided by subsequent 
law. 

A ball falling on a line is regarded as falling in 
the court bounded by that line. 

Either player loses a stroke, if the ball touch 
him, or anything that he wears or carries, except his 
racket in the act of striking; or if he touch the ball 

3^5 



sports and Games 

with his racket more than once; of if he touch the 
net or any of its supports while the ball is in play; or 
if he volley the ball before it has passed the net. 

In case a player is obstructed by an accident, not 
within his control, the ball shall be considered a 
"let." But when a permanent fixture of the court 
is the cause of the accident, the point shall be 
counted. The benches and chairs placed around 
the court shall be considered permanent fixtures. If, 
however, a ball in play strike a permanent fixture 
of the court (other than the net or posts) before it 
touches the ground, the point is lost; if after it has 
touched the ground, the point shall be counted. 

On either player winning his first stroke, the score 
is called fifteen for that player; on either player win- 
ning his second stroke, the score is called thirty for 
that player; on either player winning his third stroke, 
the score is called forty for that player; and the 
fourth stroke won by either player is scored game 
for that player, except as below. If both players 
have won three strokes, the score is called deuce; and 
the next stroke won by either player is scored advan- 
tage for that player. If the same player win the 
next stroke, he wins the game; if he lose the next 
stroke, the score returns to deuce, and so on, until one 
player wins the two strokes immediately following 
the score of deuce, when game is scored for that 
player. 

The first player who wins six games wins the 

386 



\ Lawn Tennis 

set, except as follows : If both players win five games 
the ^ore is called games all ; and the next game won 
by ei';her player is scored advantage game for that 
player, If the same player win the next game, he 
wins the set; if he lose the next game, the score re- 
turns to games all; and so on, until either player wins 
the two games immediately following the score of 
games all, when he wins the set. But the committee 
having charge of any tournament may in their dis- 
cretion modify this rule by the omission of advan- 
tage sets. 

The players shall change sides at the end of every 
set; but the umpire, on appeal from either pb.yer 
before the toss for choice, shall direct the players to 
change sides at the end of the first, third, fifth, and 
every succeeding alternate game of each set; but if 
the appeal be made after the toss for choice, the um- 
pire can only direct the players to change sides at 
the end of the first, third, fifth, and every succeed- 
ing alternate game of the odd, or deciding set. If 
the players change courts in the alternate games 
throughout the match, as above, they shall play in the 
first game of each set after the first in the courts in 
which they respectively did not play in the first game 
of the set immediately preceding. 

In all contests the play shall be continuous 
from the first service till the match be concluded; 
provided, however, that at the end of the third set 
each player is entitled to a rest which shall not ex- 

387 



Sports and Games 

ceed seven minutes; and provided, further, tha^ in 
case of an unavoidable accident, not within the con- 
!rol of the contestants, a cessation of play which 
shall not exceed two minutes may be allowed between 
points; but this proviso shall be strictly construed, 
and the privilege never granted for the purpose of 
allowing a player to recover his strength or wind. 
The referee in his discretion may at any time post- 
pone the match on account of darkness or condition 
of the ground or weather. In any case of postpone- 
ment, the previous score shall hold good. Where 
the play has ceased for more than an hour, the player 
who at the cessation thereof was in the court first 
chosen shall have the choice of courts on the recom- 
mencement of play. He shall stay in the court he 
chooses for the remainder of the set. The last two 
sentences of this rule do not apply when the players 
change every alternate game, as provided by pre- 
vious law. 

If a player serve out of his turn, the umpire, as 
soon as the mistake is discovered, shall direct the 
player to serve who ought to have served. But all 
strokes scored before such discovery shall be counted. 
If a game shall have been completed before such dis- 
covery, then the service in the next alternate game 
shall be delivered by the player who did not serve 
out his turn, and so on, in regular rotation. 

The above laws shall apply to the three-handed 
and four-handed games, except as below: 

388 



Sports and Games 

who served in the second game shall serve in the 
fourth, and the same order shall be maintained in 
all the subsequent games of the set. 

At the beginning of the next set, either partner 
of the pair which struck out in the last game of the 
last set may serve; and the same privilege is given to 
their opponents in the second game of the new set. 

The players shall take the service alternately 
throughout the game ; a player can not receive a ser- 
vice delivered to his partner; and the order of service 
and striking out once established shall not be altered, 
nor shall the striker-out change courts to receive the 
service, till the end of the set. 

It is a fault if the ball served do not drop between 
the service line, half court line, and service side line 
of the court, diagonally opposite to that from which 
it was served. 

It is a fault if the ball served do not drop as 
provided in previous law, or if it touch the server's 
partner or anything he wears or carries. 

The game in the United States is governed by an 
Association called the United States Lawn Tennis 
Association,being made up of two classes of members. 
Clubs and Associated Clubs. The annual champion- 
ship is played under the jurisdiction of this Associa- 
tion at Newport, R. I. 



390 



APPENDIX 



Lawn Tennis 



For the three-handed and four-handed games, 
the court shall be thirty-six feet in width; four and 
one half feet inside the side lines, and parallel with 
them, are drawn the service side lines. The ser- 
vice lines are not drawn beyond the point at which 
they meet the service side lines. 



WET 



A C 


E 6. 


K 






L 






B I 


> 


F k 



t/ZT 

TENNIS COURT 
A B and G H, base lines, 27 feet long 
A G and B H, side lines, 78 feet long 
K L = 42 feet long 
E G , F H, A C, and B D, 18 feet long 

In the three-handed game, the single player shall 
serve in every alternate game. 

In the four-handed game, the pair who have the 
right to serve in the first game shall decide which 
partner shall do so; and the opposing pair shall de- 
cide in like manner for the second game. The 
partner of the player who served in the first game 
shall serve in the third, and the partner of the player 

389 



APPENDIX 

REFERENCE LIST FOR SPORTS AND GAMES 



Acted Ballads. 

Hale, Lucretia P. Fagots for 
the Fireside. Houghton, Mif- 
flin & Co. Boston. $1.25. 

Acted Charades. 
Hale. 

Acted Charades. 

Valentine, Mrs. Games for 
Family Parties and Children. 
Frederick Warne & Co. 50c. 

Acted Solution of Problems. 

Hale. 
Advice. 

White, Mary. Book of Games. 

Scribner's Sons. New York. 

$1.00. 

Aerial Fish and Dragons. 

Paper Dragons or Fish for Kite 

Strings — A Live Man Kite. 

Outdoor Handy Book. By 

Daniel C. Beard. Scribner's 

Sons. New York. 1900. $2.00. 

All Hallow Eve. 
Bobbing for Apples. 
Halloween Parties. 
Kaling. 
Melted Lead. 
Nutshell Boats. 
Three Luggies. 
Roasting Nuts. 
The Magic Mirror. 
Three Tin Cups. 
The Ring Cake. 
The Ghostly Fire. 
The Fairy's Gifts. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 
By Daniel C. Beard. Scrib- 



ner's Sons. New York. 1S98. 
$2.00. 

Alliteration. 
Hale. 

Alliterative Literature. 
White. 

Alphabet Story. 
Hale. 

Amusing Tricks. 
Valentine. 

Anagrams. 
Hale. 

Ancestors. 

Hale. 
Animals. 

White. 

Animate Art. 
White. 

Apple Target Shooting. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Apprentice My Son. 

Hale. 
April First. 

White. 

Aquatic Plants in the House 
or Flower Garden. 

Water Lily. Cat Tails. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 
By Daniel C. Beard. Scrili- 
ner's Sons. New York. $2.00. 

Aquatic Sports. 
Rowing Clothes. 



393 



Appendix 



Bathing Suit. 
Sunburn. 

Points About Canoeing. 
Outdoor Handy Book. 

ASHTA-KOSHTA. 

Falkener, Edward. 
Ancient and Oriental, 
mans, Green & Co. $ 



Games 
Long- 
5.00. 



ASSAFOETIDA. 

Gibson, W. Hamilton. Camp 
Life and the Tricks of Trap- 
ping. Harper & Bros. New 
York. $1.00. 

Assumed Characters. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Athletics. 

Shearman, Montague. Athlet- 
ics. Longmans. 1898. $3.50 
and $5.00. 

Auction. 
White. 

Austrian Army. 
Hale. 

Autumn Leaves. 
■ Fresh Autumn Wild Flowers. 
Buckeye Portiere. 
Panel of Fall Decorations. 
Louis Quintze Screen. 
A Panel of Field Corn. 
Ornamental Gourds. 
Gourd Dippers and Bowls. 
Vases. 

Small Decorations. 
Brackets. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 
Averages, Game of. 
Hale. 

Baby Show. 
White. 

Backgammon, Turkish and Ger- 
man. 
Falkener, 



Backgammon, Russian, 
Hoyle. 

Badger, The. 
Gibson. 

Baiting the Steel Trap, 
Gibson. 

Ball, Game of. 

Town Ball. 

One or Two Old Cat, 

House Ball. 

Hand Up. 

Bailie Callie. 

Crackabout. 

Over the Barn. 

Stool Ball. 

Corner Ball. 

Black Baby. 

Hat Ball. 
Outdoor Handy Book. 
Banjo. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Barber Shop. 

White. 
Barberry Bush. 

Hale. 

Bark Shanty, The, 
Gibson. 

Barrel Trap. 
Gibson. 

Bat Fowling Nest, The. 
Gibson. 

Bean Bag Contest. 
Hale, 

Bear Trap. 

Gibson. 
Beasts, Birds and Fishes. 

Hale. 
Beaver, The. 

Gibson. 
Beds and Bedding When Camp- 
ing. 

Gibson, 



394 



Appendix 



Bequests. 

White. 
Bicycling for Girls. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Bicyclists^ Practical Hints For. 
A Cleaning Rack and a Bicycle 

Stand. 
A Collector's Box. 
A Photographer's Outfit on a 
Wheel. 
A Rope Tire. 

An Extemporized Handle-bar. 
Baggage, and How to Carry It. 
How to Deal with Punctures. 
Outdoor Handy Book. 
Billiards. 
American Four Ball Game. 
American Pyramid Pool. 
Balk-line Game. 
Bottle Pool. 
Chicago Pool. 
Continuous Pool. 
Cushion Carrom Game. 
Fifteen Ball Pool. 
High, Low, Jack, Game Pool. 
Pin Pool. 

Plant Game of Pool. 
Spanish Billiards. 
Three Ball Carrom Game. 
Hoyle. 
Billiards, Old and New. 

Thatcher, J. A. Champion- 
ship Billiards, Old and New. 
Rand, 1898. 75c. and $1.00. 

Biographical Nonsense. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Biography. 

White. 
Bird Lime. 

Gibson. 
Bird Nesting. 

How to Collect and Preserve 
Eggs. 



Birds' Nests. 

Preserving Nests. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 
Bird, Singers, Etc. 

The Block Bird Singer. 

The Corn Stalk Fiddle. 

The Pumpkin Vine Fife. 

A Pumpkin Vine Flute. 

Cane Fife. 

The Voice Disguiser. 

The Locust Singer. 

The Hummer. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 
Bird Whistle Described. 
Gibson. 

Blind Artists. 

White. 
Blind Man's Singing School. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Blind Man's Stocking. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Blockade. 
White. 
Blow Guns, Elder Guns, Etc. 
To Make a Blow Gun. 
Squirt Gun. 

Elder Guns and Pistols. 
The Spring Shot Gun. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Blowing the Feather. 
White. 

Board Flap, The. 
Gibson. 

Boarded. 
Hale. 

Boats. 
Boat-Building. 
Gibson. 

Home-Made Boats. 
Birth of the "Man Friday" Cata- 
maran. 



395 



Appendix 



Boats — (Continued) 
A Canvas Canoe. 
A Floating Camp or the Boy's 

Own Fiat-Boat. 
How to Build a Birch Bark 

Canoe. 
How to Build a Siwash Canoe. 
Indian Birch Bark Canoe. 
Slab Canoe. 
The Crusoe Raft. 
The Dug-out. 
The Scow. 
The Yankee Pine. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Indian or Birch Bark Canoe. 

Gibson. 
Land Lubber's Chapter, The. 
Boat Rigs, 

Gibson. 

Light Home Made Boat. 

Gibson. 
Rough and Ready Boat, A. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 

Single Shells and Umbrella 

Canoes. 
How Old Shells can be Turned 

into Boy's Boats. 
Landing from and Embarking in 

a Shell. 
The Cause of Upsets. 
What an Umbrella Canoe is, 

and How It is Made. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 
Small Boats. 
Cat Rig. 

Hints to Beginners. 
How to Make a Sail. 
Lateen Rig. 
Leg-of-Mutton Rig. 
Simplest Rig Possible. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Advantages of the Sloop. 
Merits and Defects of a Cat 
Boat. 
Ship, Bark, Brig, and Schooner. 



Rigs for Canoes. 
Buckeyes and Sharpies. 
Outdoor Handy Book. 

Boats. See also Yachts. 

Bonbon Box. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Bookbinder. 
White. 

Booths at a Fair. 
The Tables. 

Flowers for Decoration. 
The Months. 
The Five Senses. 
Walls. 
Grab-Bags. 

The Lady ©f the Lake. 
Fortune's Wheel. 
Rag-Balls. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Boston Telegrams. 

White. 
Bow Trap. 

Gibson. 

Bowl Traps. 
Gibson. 

Box Bird Trap. 
Gibson. 

Box Dead Fall, The. 
Gibson. 

Box Owl Trap. 
Gibson. 

Box Pit Fall. 

Gibson. 
Box Snare. 

Gibson. 

Boxing. 

Trotter, J. C. Boxing. Penn- 
sylvania Publishing Co. Phila- 
delphia. 1900. 25c. 



396 



Appendix 



Boy's Baby Ballister. 

Blow Guns and Their Use. 
Blow Gun Parachutes. 
The Lariat. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 

Boy's Pockets, A. 
White. 

Bran Pie. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Brick Trap. 
Gibson. 

Broken Quotations. 
White. 

Bubble Blowing. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Buffalo, The. 
Gibson. 

Buried Cities. 
Hale. 

Butterflies. 
White. 

Button, Button Negatively. 
White. 

Buying Forfeits. 

White. 
Buz Fiz. 

Hale. 



C.A.GE Trap. 
Gibson. 

Camping Out. 
Gibson. 

Camping Out. 
How to Make a Fire in the 
Woods on a Rainy Day. 
To Get a Light Without 
Matches. 

The Diamond Hitch and a 
Home- Made Cinch. 
Outdoor Handy Book. 

397 



Camping Out Without a Tent. 
Hints to Amateur Campers. 
Provisions. 
Shelter. 

Choosing Companions. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Canada Lynx, The. 
Gibson. 

Capping Verses. 
Hale. 

Card Games. 

Hoyle's Games. Dick and 
Fitzgerald. New York. 50c. 
7SC., and $1.25. 

Card Tricks. 
Valentine. 

Castoreum or Barkstone. 
Gibson. 

Cat's Concert. 
Hale. 

Cayenne. 
Hale. 

Cayenne Whist. 
Hoyle. 

Celebrities. 
White. 

Cento Verses. 
Hale. 

Chauser and Chawput. 
Falkener. 

Chautaurauya or Indian Chess. 
Falkener. 

Checkers. 
Hoyle. 

Ellsworth's Checker Book. 
Call, W. T. W. T. Call. New 
York. 1899. 250. 

Turkish Draughts. 
Falkener. 



Appendix 



Chess. 
Hoyle. 

Art of Chess. 

Mason, J. Scribner's Sons. 
New York. 1898. $2.50. 

Burmese Chess. 
Falkener. 

Chess for Beginners. 
Swinton, R. B. New Amster- 
dam Book Co. New York. 
1891. $1.00. 

Chess Notations : A ' New Sys- 
tem. 

Falkener. 

Chess Problems. 
Falkener. 

Chess Strategetics Illustrated. 
Young, F. K. Little, Brown 
& Co. Boston. 1898. $3.50. 

Common Sense in Chess. 
Lasker, E. New Amsterdam 
Book Co. New York. 1901. 
75c. 

Tamerline's Chess. 
Falkener. 

Turkish Chess. 
Falkener. 

Children's Party for Grown 
People. 
White. 

China Painting. 

American Girl's Handy Book, 

China Painting. 
White. 

Chinese Chess. 
Falkener. 

Choosing Up and "It." 
"Which Hand is It In?" 
"Pick 'er Up, Wipe 'er Off 
Stone-Holder." 
"Last One Over." 



Short Straw. 

Handy, Dandy, Riderly Ro. 

"Whole Fist or Four Fingers?" 

"Odd or Even?" 

"Wet or Dry?" 

Outdoor Handy Book. 

Christmas. 
Christmas, the Cross. 

Kaye, Jay. Christmas Enter- 
tainments. W. H. Baker & 
Co. Boston. 1901. 25c. 

Christmas Games. 
Valentine. 

Christmas Plays. 
Kaye. 

Christmas Trees. 
Kaye. 

Home-Made Christmas Gifts. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Cipher Puzzle, The. 
Hale. 

Cities. 
White. 

Clap Net, The. 
Gibson. 

Clog, The. 
Gibson. 

Clothes Pins. 
Hale. 

Clumps, or the Two Captains. 
Hale. 

Cobweb Party. 
Hale. 

Collecting. 
Hints for Collectors. 
Moths and Butterflies. 
A New Cabinet. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 

Colored Lights. 
Valentine. 



398 



Appendix 



Comet. 
Hale. 

Comic Historic Tableaux. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Commerce. 

White. 
Commercial Traveller. 

White. 
Composite Photographs. 

Hale. 
Composite Pictures. 

White. 
Compositions. 

White. 
Conjuring for Amateurs. 

Stanyon, E. Scribner's Sons. 

New York. 40c. 

Consequences. 

Hale. 
Conundrums. 

White. 
Conversation Party. 

Hale. 
Coop Trap. 

Gibson. 

Cork Frame. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Corn Husk and Flower Dolls. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Corrall or Hopo of Africa, The. 
Gibson. 

Counting Out Rhymes. 

An American Version of an 
Ancient Rhyme. 
Causes of Variations. 
Rhymes of Different Nationali- 
ties. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 



Cricket. 

Lyttleton, R. H. Hadley & 
Matthews. New York. 1898. 
75c. 

Cross Questions and Silly An- 
swers. 
White. 

Cum-je-cum. 
Hale. 

Cummin - Fenugreek - Lavender 
Compound Medicines. 
Gibson. 

Curing Skins. 
Gibson. 

Dancing Fairies, the Bather 
and the Orator. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

D.\TES, The Game of. 
Hale. 

Dead Fall, The. 
Gibson. 

Decorated Frame. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Decorating Mantelpieces and 
Fireplaces. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Decorative Language. 

The Field and the Points of 
Heraldry. 
Divisions. 
Colors. 

How to Make a Design in 
Decorative Language. 
Book Plates. 
Floral Vocabulary. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Decorative Sisters, The. 
Hale. 

Decoys. 

Duck Decoys. 
Snipe and Plover Decoys. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 



399 



Appendix 



Deer, The. 
Gibson. 

Description of Acting Ballads. 

Hale. 
Dice. 

Hoyle. 
Dogs. 

How to Choose a Dog. 
How to Train Dogs. 
To Teach a Dog to Retrieve. 
Pointers and Setters. 
Pet Dogs. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Domestic Architecture. 
White. 

Dominoes. 
Hoyle. 

Domino Whist. 
Hale. 

Domino Whist. 
Hoyle. 

Double Box Snare. 
Gibson. 

Double Chess. 
Falkener. 

Double-Ender. The. 
Gibson. 

Doublets. 
Hale. 

Doubt It. 
Hale. 

Down Fall, The. 
Gibson. 

Draughts. 
Falkener. 

Draughts. 
Hoyle. 

Drawing. 
How to Draw. 

How to Enlarge or Reduce a 
Picture. 

400 



How to Enlarge or Reduce by 

Squares. 

How _ to Make a Camera for 

Drawing. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Dream of Fair Women. 
Hale. 

Dream Tableaux. 
Kaye. 

Duck on a Rock. 
Hale. 

Dumb Motions. 
White. 

Easter Cards. 

Easter Customs in Other 
Lands. 

Easter Egg Dolls. 

Easter Egg Games. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

English. 

Hale. 
Epitaphs. 

Hale. 
Eye Guessing. 

White. 
Eye Puzzle. 

Hale. 

Fairy Chariot, The. 

Kaye. 
Fairy Tree, The. 

Kaye. 
Falls of Niagara, The. 

Hale. 

Famous Characters. 

White. 
Fan-Ball. 

White. 

Fans. 

How to Make a Fan. 
Butterfly Fan. 



Appendix 



Mikado Fan. 
Daisy Fan. 
Cardboard Fan. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Farewell. 

Hale. 
Farmer, The. 

Hale. 
Farmyard. 

Hale. 
Faro. 

Hoyle. 

Fashion Notes. 

White. 
Fencing. 

"Angelo" Later Day English 
Schools. 

Danet and Numerical Nomen- 
clature of the French School. 

Early Schools of Fence. 

Elizabethan Fencing. 

Girard Thibault, d'Anvers. 

Sainct Didier and Viggiana. 

Spanish and German Schools. 

The Art of Fence in England 
during the 17th and i8th Cen- 
turies. 

The Decline and Fall of the 
Narvaez School. The Devel- 
opment of the Modern Italian 
Sword Play. The Kreussler- 
sche Schule in Germany. 

The Decline of the Rapier and 
Dawn of the French School. 

The Great Bolognese Schools. 

The Great Italian Masters of 
Sword and Dagger in the 17th 
Centurj'. 

The Rise of the French School. 

The Sword During the i6th, 
17th, and i8th Centuries. 
Castle, Egerton. Geo. Bell & 
Sons. Covent Garden, Lon- 
don. 

Figure Four Ground Snare, The. 
Gibson. 



Fire. 

White. 

Firework Making for Amateurs. 

Blue Candles, Star Lights and 

Flower Pots. 
Brilliant, White and Colored 

Bengal Fires. 
Crackers. 

Case Colors for Wheels, Etc. 
Compound Fireworks and Set 

Pieces. 
Fire and Gas Balloons. 
Gerbs and Jets of Chinese 

Sparkling and Brilliant Fires. 
Lance and Lance Work. 
Material and Appliances. 
Maroons. 
Mines of Serpents, Crackers and 

Stars. 
Pin or Catherine Wheels. 
Parlor Fireworks. 
Plain, Brilliant, and Illuminated 

Saxons. 
Plain and Brilliant Tourbillons. 
Rockets. 

Roman Candles. 
Squibs. 
Saucissons. 
Shells and the Mortars from 

which they are Fired. 
Wheel Cases and Small Wheels. 
Browne, William H. L. Up- 
cott Gill, 170 Strand, W. C, 
London. ( Scribner's Sons, 
New York.) $1.00. 

First of April Party. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Fish Oil. 

Gibson. 
Fish Trap, A. 

Gibson. 
Fisher, The. 

Gibson. 
Fishing. 
The Floating Tip-Up. 



401 



Appendix 



Fishing (continued) 
The Goose Fisherman. 
The Pistol Reporter. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 
Angling. 

Blakely, Robert. Routledge. 
$1.25. 
Angle Worms. 
Bait, Live and Dead. 
Crawfish. 
Crickets. 
Frogs. 

Grasshoppers. 
Hellgramites. 

Lampers : How to Catch and 
Keep Them. 
Minnows. 

Salt Water Worms that Live 
on Land. 
Outdoor Handy Book. 

Book of the All Round Angler. 

Bickerdyke, J. S c r i b n e r's 
Sons. New York. 1900. $2.20. 

Common Sense Precautions in 
Fishing. 
Outdoor Handy Book. 

Fishing, Dredge, Trawl and 

Tangle. 

A New Sport. 

A Tin Pail Dredge. 

Hints and Suggestions to Ama- 
teurs. 

How to Make a Bake Pan 
Dredge. 

How to Make a Broomstick 
Tangle. 

The Old Chain Tangle. 

The Tangle. 

The Trawl. 

The Use of the Tangle. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Five Minutes' Conversation. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Five Points. 
Hale. 



Five Senses, Game of. 
Hale. 

Flags of all Nations. 

White. 
Fling the Towel. 

Hale. 
Fly Paper. 

Gibson. 

Fly Rods and Fly Tackle. 

Wells, H. P. Harper Bros. 

New York. 1901. $1.75. 
A Home-Made Minnow Bucket. 
Fisherman's Movable Shanties. 
Fishing for Fresh Water Clams. 
Home-Made Fishing Tackle. 
Home-Made Nets. 
How to Build a Fishing House. 
Inhabitants of the Water. 
Jugging for Cats. 
Novel Methods of Fishing. 
Smelt Fishing and the Smelt 
Fisher's House. 
Snaring Fish. 
Spearing Fish. 
Tin and Spool Reel. 
The Bell Pole. 
Toy Boats for Fishing. 
The Dancing Fisherman. 
The Forked Stick Reel. 
The Rod. 

The Spearsman's Shanty. 
The Wooden Otter. 
Winter Fishing, Spearing and 
Snaring. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 
Fly Trap. 

Gibson. 

Food and Cooking Utensils. 
(When Camping.) 
Gibson. 

Fooley Ann. 
Hale. 

"Fool's Lap" Trap, The. 
Gibson. 



402 



Appendix 



Forfeit Games. 
Valentine. 

Fortune Teller''s Box, Etc. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Fortune Telling. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Fortune's Wheel. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Four Fans of Five. 
Hale. 

Fourth of July Balloons. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Fox Trap. 
Gibson. 

Frame Covered with Tinfoil. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Fresh Water Aquarium. 
Aquarium Cement. 
Gold Fish Versus Bass. 
Stocking. 
The Frog. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Frost Tree, The. 
Kaye. 

Forfeits. 
White. 

Fur and the Fur Trade. 
Gibson. 

Games of Elderly People. 

Valentine. 
Gardening. 

White. 
Garotte, The. 

Gibson. 

Geographical Letters. 
White. 



German. 

How to Give a German. 

How to Lead It. 

How to Dance It. 

The Hostess. 

Dancers, Points. 

The Leader. 

Simple Figures with Properties. 

Hall Figures. 

Getting Up Figures. 

Estimates. 
The German by Two Amrtcur 
Leaders. McClurg & Co. Chi- 
cago, 111. $1.00. 

German Constitution. 
Hale. 

Gift Arbor, The. 
Kaye. 

Girls' Clues. 

How to Form a Club. 

The Name and the Constitution. 

How to Organize. 

How to Conduct a Regular 
Meeting. 

Effectiveness in Speaking. 

How to Make and Treat a Mo- 
tion. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Girl's Fourth of July. 
Bombs. 

Declaration of Independence. 
Fireworks. 

Fourth of July Jackstraws. 
Indoor Illumination. 
Interior Decoration. 
Out-of-Door Decoration. 
Parachute. 
Pin Wheels. 
Progressive Mining. 
Thunderbolts. 
Toss. 

Whirls and Winged Fancies. 
American Girl's Handy Book, 

Going to Jerusalem. 
Hale. 



403 



Appendix 



Golf. 


Hearts. 


Book of Golf and Golfers. 


Hale. 


Hutchinson, H. G. Longmans. 
$5-0o. 


Hedge Nooses. 


Gibson. 


How to Play Golf. 


Hide in Sight. 


Whigham, H. G. H. S. Stone 


Hale. 


& Co. Chicago. $1.50. 






Historic Scenes. 


Practical Golf. 


Hale. 


Travis, W. J. Harper & Bros. 




New York. 1901. $2.00. 


Historical Pictures. 




Hale. 


Gopher, The. 


Home Games and Parties. 


VJIUo'-'ll. 


Mott, Mrs. H. Doubleday, 


Gorilla. 


Page & Co. New York. 50c. 


Hale. 


and $1.00. 


Grabouge. 


Home Gymnasium. 


Hale. 


Course of Exercises. 


Grappling Iron, The. 


American Girl's Handy Book. 


Gibson. 


Home-Made Candy. 


Ground Snares. 


Butter Scotch and Molasses 


Gibson. 


Candy. 
Chocolate Caramels. 


Guessing Match. 


Marshm.allow Paste. 


White. 


Peanut Candy. 




Pop-corn Balls. 


Gun Trap, The. 


Walnut and Fruit Glace. 


Gibson. 


American Girl's Handy Book 




Honey Bee Messengers. 


Hallowe'en. 


Outdoor Handy Book. 


White. 


Hook Trap. 


Hammocks. 


Gibson. 


Barrel Hammock. 


Hoops and Wheels. 


How to Make a Hammock. 


Outdoor Handy Book. 


Materials. 




American Girl's Handy Book. 


Hoop Noses. 
Gibson. 


Hanging. 


Horn Monkey. 


Hale. 


White. 


Hanging the Stockings. 


Horn of Plenty. 


Kaye. 


Kaye. 


Hawk Trap. 


Horse Hair Nooses. 


Gibson. 


Gibson. 



404 



Appendix 



Household Fragrance. 
White. 

How ? Where ? When ? 
White. 

How Do You Go? 
Hale. 

HUMPTY DUMPTY. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Hunt the Feather. 
Hale. 

Hunt the Whistle. 

White. 
Hunting. 

Chase and Road. 

Nimrod. Brentano's. 1901. 

$1.00. 

Home-Made Hunting Appara- 
tus, etc. 

How to Make a Fish Spear. 
. How to Make the Boomerang. 

How to Make the Torches and 
Jack-Lights. 

Spearing Fish. 

The Bird Bolas. 

The Elastic Cross Bow. 

The Miniature Boomerang. 

The Whip Bow. 

Throw Sticks. 

To Throw a Boomerang. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

An Essay on Hunting. 
Artificial Coverts. 
Artificial Earths. 
Babbling. 
Badget, The. 
Bag-Foxes. 
Beagles, Size of. 
Beckford. 
Belvoir, The. 
Bilsdale, The. 
Bloodhound, The. 
Blue-Mist. 
Breeding Hounds. 
Breeding Hunters. 



Hunting — {Contiiiued) 
Bridle, The. 
Brocklesby, The. 
Buckhound, The. 
Casting Beagles. 
Casting Hounds. 
Changing Hares. 
Chase, The. 
Conceit in Huntsmen. 
Conditioning Hounds. 
Cottesmore, The. 
Courtesy of the Hunting Field. 
Coverts. 
Cruelty. 
Cub-Hunting. 
Cunning of a Fox, The. 
Damage to Crops. 
Deer, Fallow. 
Deer, Red. 

Description of a Cub-Hunt. 
Description of a Run. 
Devon and Somerset. 
Discipline in Hounds. 
Drag-Hunt. 
Drawing a Covert. 
Drawing for a Hare. 
Earths. 

Essay on Hunting. 
Exercising Hounds. 
Exmoor. 
Fallow Deer. 
"Farmer, The." 
Feeding. 
Fog. 

Foot-Beagles. 
Forage. 

Forage-Dealers. 
"Fox, The." 
Fox Beagle, The. 
Fox Coverts. 
Fox Cubs. 
Fox Earths. 
Fox Mange. 
Foxes, Turned Down. 
Funk. 

Going to the Meet. 
Goodall. 
Goosey. 
Grafton, The. 
Halloas. 



405 
Vol. 14- 



14 



Appendix 



Hunting — (^Continued ) 

Hand Canter. 
"Hands." 
Harborer, The. 
"Hare Hunting." 
Hare's Trail, The. 
Hares, Where Found. 
Harriers. 
Harriers, Size of. 
Hawking. 
Holding Up Cubs. 
Horse Buying. 
Horse Dealer. 
Horse Dealing. 
Horsemanship. 
"Hound, The." 
Hunt Horses. 
Hunter, Value of a. 
Hunters, Breeding of. 
"Huntsman, The." 
Keenness in a Huntsman. 
Keeping Field in Order. 
Kennels, Site for. 
Love of Hunting. 
Loyalty to Master. 
Mange in Foxes. 
Marten-Cat, The. 
"Master, The." 
Milton, The. 
Mute Hounds. 
Nerve. 

New Forest, The. 
Otter, Artificial Drain for. 
"Otter Hunting." 
Otters Breeding. 
Pace at a Fence. 
Peterborough Show. 
Poultry Claims. 
Pressing on Beagles. 
Quorn, The. 
"Riding, The." 
Rocking Horse. 
.Run, Description of a. 
Running Heel. 
Scent. 

Second Whip, The. 
Sheep-Dogs. 
Skirting. 
Sloan. 
Sobriety in Hunt Servants. 



Somerville. 

Southern-Hound, The. 

"Stag Hunting." 

Stallion Hound, Selection of a. 

Subscriptions to Hounds. 

Thoughts on Hunting. 

Tongue. 

Tufters. 

Voice. 

"Whipper in, The." 

Paget, J. O. J. W. Dent & 
Co. Aldine House, Bedford 
St., London, W. C. 1900. $3.00. 

I Love My Love. 

Hale. 
I Spy. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 

Ice Boats. 
Tom Thumb Ice Boat and 
Larger Craft. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Idiot's Joy. 

Hale. 
Illustrated Library. 

Hale. 
Illustrated Proverbs. 

Hale. 
Impossible Cat, The. 

White. 

Impression Album. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Impromptu Newspaper. 
Hale. 

Improved Spingle. 
Gibson. 

Indian Games. 
Mandan Ring. 

Squaw. Saddle Bags, or Sky 
Shinny. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 



406 



Appendix 



Indoor Amusements. 

A Literary Sketch Club. 
Bric-a-Brac, or the Tourist's 

Curiosities. 
Mind Reading. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Indoor Games. 
Valentine. 

Industrial Fair. 

White. 
Initials. 

Hale. 
Initials. 

White. 
Insect Ointments. 

Gibson. 
Game of It. 

Hale. 
Jacob's Ladder. 

Kaye. 
Jacoby. 

Hale. 
Japanese Chess. 

Falkener. 
Jar Trat, The. 

Gibson. 

Jenkins. 
White. 

Johnny's Trade. 
Hale. 

JUKLAPP. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Kaleidoscope, A. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Key and Button-Hook Rack 
and Paper Weight. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 



Kites. 
A Boy Kite. 
Butterfly Kite. 
Chinese Dragon Kite. 
Fish Kite. 
Frog Kite. 

Japanese Square Kite. 
King Crab Kite. 
Man Kite. 
Moving Star. 
Shield Kite. 
Star Kite. 

Tailless Holland Kites. 
The Woman Kite. 
Turtle Kite. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Cannibal and Chinese Butterfly 

Kites. 
Kites as Motive Power. 
Kites in Tandem. 
Life-Savers. 
Malay Variety. 

Malay and Other Tailless Kites. 
Men Lifters and Other Novel 

Forms. 
Steering Kites. 
Outdoor Handy Book. 

Kites, War. 
Armed Kites. 
Armed Kite Fighting. 
How to Make the Cutters. 
How to Make the Knives. 
Kite Clubs. 
Unarmed Kites. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Knots, Bends, and Hitches. 

How to Make a Horse Hair 
Watch Guard. 
Miscellaneous. 
Splices. 

Timber Hitches, Etc. 
Whip Lashes. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

KOPAK. 

Hale. 



407 



Appendix 



Lantern, 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Lawn Skittles. 

Hale. 
Leap Frog. 

Dick's Hat Band. 
Foot-an'-Half. 
Spanish Fly. 

With First Back and a Leader. 
Outdoor Handy Book. 

Leather Suckers and Live 
Suckers. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 
Literati. 

Hale. 
"Little Brown Squirrel." 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Little Quakeress. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Lively Water Fairies. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Living Catalogue. 

White. 
Living Christmas Cards. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Location. 

White. 

Log Coop Trap. 
Gibson. 

Magic Lantern. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 
Magic Music. 

■ Hale. 
Magic Music. 

White. 

Magic Squares. 

Even Squares Whose Halves 



are Even. 



408 



Even Squares Whose Halves 
are Uneven. 

Figures of the Knight's Tour. 

Hollow and Fancy Squares, 

Indian Magic Squares. 

Magic Circles and Pentagons. 

Magic Squares in Compart- 
ments. 

Magic Squares in Borders. 

Odd Squares. 

The Knight's Magic Square. 

The Knight's Magic Square Be- 
ginning at Any Cell. 

The Knight's Tour. 

To Form a Magic Square Be- 
ginning at Any Cell. 
Falkener. 
Mandolin. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Maple Wax Easter Eggs. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Marbles. 
Duck in a Hole. 
Fat and Other Famous Games 

of Marbles. 
Follerings. 

Games From Bull in the Ring 
to Long Ring. 
How Marbles are Made. 
Knucks. 

Marble Expressions. 
Marble Names. 
Marble Terms. 
Sakya Muni and Humphrey 

Potter. 
Stand Up Marbles. 
The Long Ring and Patterson. 
The Scientific Bull Ring. 
"Yank" or "Yankey." 
Outdoor Handy Book. 

Marine Aquarium. 
Cement for Marine Aquarium. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Marine Picture Frame. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 



Appendix 



Market Value of Fur Skins. 
Gibson. 

Masqueraders. 

Eyebrows, Mustache, and Beard. 
Home-Made Masquerade and 

Theatrical Costume. 
How to Make a Handkerchief 

Hood. 
The Baby. 
The Doublet. 
"The Fourteenth Century Young 

Man." 
The Mediaeval Hat. 
The White Man of the Desert. 
The Wig. 
Tights. 
To Dress. 
Trunks. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 
May Baskets. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
May Day Combat. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
AIay-Pole. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
May-Pole Dance. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
^Iay-Day Sports. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Meal Bag Race. 

Hale. 
Medicine or Scent Baits. 

Gibson. 
^Iemory. 

White. 
MemorYj Games of. 

Valentine. 
Merry Juvenile Games. 

Valentine. 
Messenger, Thk. 
Kaye. 



Metamorphosis. 
Hale. 

Minister's Cat. 

Hale. 
Mink, The. 

Gibson. 
Mirror, The. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Mirror Tableaux. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Mirth. 

White. 
Miss Roly Poly. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Missing Letters. 

White. 
Modeling in Clay and Wax. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Mole Trap. 

Gibson. 
Moose, The. 

Gibson. 

Motto Cross, The. 

Kaye. 
Most Improbable Story. 

White. 

Miss Plinlimmin's Tea. 
Hale. 

Mumbly Peg, Hop Scotch and 
Jack Stones. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 

Music Roll. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Musical Games. 

Valentine. 
Muskrat. The. 

Gibson. 



409 



Appendix 



My Lady's Toilet. 

White. 
Names. 

Hale. 
Natural History. 

White. 
Natural Magic. 

Valentine. 
Needle Work. 
Applique and Original Designs 

for Portieres, 
Button Holes. 
Drawn Work. 
Embroideries. 
Fancy Stitches. 
How to Mend a Kid Glove. 
How to Patch. 
How to Sew on a Button. 
Lace. 

Plain Sewing. 
Ribbons. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 
Net Trap. 
Gibson. 
New Alliterations. 

Hale. 
New Fern-Leaf Game. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

New Sea Shore Game. 
Good Beach Needed. 
The Game. 
The Next Move. 
The Sides. 

Tit-Tat Played With Living 
Figures. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Newspaper. 
White. 
New Year's and a Leap Year 
Party. 

Pantomime of an Enchanted 
Girl. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 



New Year's Resolutions. 

White. 

Nicknames of Cities. 
White. , 

Noah's Ark Peep Show. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Nonsense Rhymes. 
White. 

Noted Men, A Game of. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Novel. 
Hale. 

Nutting Parties. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Objective Library. 

White. 

Oil Colors. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Oil of Amber. 
Gibson. 

Oil of Ambergris. 
Gibson. 

Oil Anise. 
Gibson. 

Oil of Rhodium. 

Gibson. 
Oil of Skunk. 

Gibson. 

Old Fashioned Spingle, The. 
Gibson. 

Opossum, The. 

Gibson. 
Orchestra. 

White. 
Otter, The. 

Gibson. 



410 



Appendix 



Outdoor Games for Frosty 
Weather. 

Valentine. 

Palette. 
White. 

Pantomime of An Enchanted 
Girl. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Paper Fireworks. 
Parachutes. 
Paper Whirligigs. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Paper Puppets. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Parcheesi, or Indian Backgam- 
mon. 

Falkener. 
Parodies. 

White. 
Pass the Quarter. 

Hale. 

Patchwork Illustrations. 
White. 

Patent Medicines. 
Hale. 

Patience, Games of. 

Hale. 
Peanut Hunt. 

White. 

Pendant Box.The. 
Gibson. 

A Penny for Your Thoughts. 
White. 

Personal Conundrums. 

White. 
Personal Preference Pictures. 

White. 



Philopena. 

White. 
Photographic Paper. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 
Photograph Whist. 

White. 

Physical Culture for Girls. 
An Habitual Good Carriage. 
Arise Correctly. 
Breathing. One Nostril. 
Breathing Rules. 
Full Breathing. 
How to Breathe. 
How to Stand. 

How to Walk and Sit Correctly. 
Lift Up Your Chest. 
Shoulders Down. 
Sit Correctly. 
Stand Correctly. 
Walk Correctly. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Picnics, Burgoos, and Corn 
Roasts. 
A Burgoo. 
Burgoo Stew. 
A Corn Roast. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 
Pine Marten, The. 

Gibson. 
Pitfall, The. 

Gibson. 
Plaintain Test, The. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Planting Introductions. 

Hale. 
Pla.ster Casts. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Platform Snare, The. 

Gibson. 
Poacher's Snare, The. 

Gibson. 



411 



Appendix 



Poetic Names. 
Hale. 

Poetry a la Carte. 
Hale. 

Polish Custom. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Polish Draughts. 
Falkener. 

Pool (See Billiards). 
Hoyle. 

Portable Snare, The. 
Gibson. 

Postman. 
White. 

Potato Race. 

Hale. 
Problems. 

Hale. 

Progressive Dinner Party. 

Hale. 
Progressive Puzzle. 

White. 

Prong Horn Antelope. 
Gibson. 

Puma, The. 
Gibson. 

Puppets and a Puppet Show. 

How to Make the Stage. 

The Scenery. 

The Old Mill. 

Puss. 

Corsando and the Donkey. 

The Royal Coach. 

Carabas. 

How to Work the Puppets. 

Stage Effects. 

How to Make a Magical Dance. 

How to Make a Sea Scene. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 



Puss in Boots Dramatized and 
Adapted for a Puppet Show. 

Act I., Scene i. Landscape, with 
Trees, Bridge, and Mill at One 
Side. Scene 2. Woods. — Act 
II., Scene i. King's Palace. 
Scene 2. High-Road. — Act III., 
Scene i. Interior of Ogre's 
Castle. 
Boy's Handy Book. 

Put in Proverb. 

Hale. 
Pyramid Tree No. i. 

Kaye. 

Pyramid Tree No. 2. 

Kaye. 
Quail Snare. 

Gibson. 
Queries. 

Hale. 
Quotations. 

Hale. 
Rabbit, The. 

Gibson. 
Raccoon, The. 

Gibson. 

Raft That Will Sail. 

A Home- Made Catamaran. 
Outdoor Handy Book. 

Revolving Tree, The. 

Kaye. 
River Conundrums. 

Hale. 

Rocky Mountain Sheep. 
Gibson. 

Royal Lady. 
White. 

Santa Claus Box. 
Kaye. 



412 



Appendix 



Santa Claus' Shadow. 
Kaye. 

St. Nicholas at Home and 
Abroad. 
Kaye. 

St. Nicholas' Sleigh. 
Kaye. 

St. Valentine's Day. 
White. 

Sapolio. 
Hale. 

Scouts. 
White. 

Scow, The. 
Gibson. 

SCRAP-BoOK AND HoME-MaDE COV- 
ERS. 

An Album. 

Home-Made Book Cover. 
Mother Goose Scrap-Book. 
Transformation Scrap-Book. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Seaside Cottage Decoration. 
Crab Net Work Basket. 
Hat Rack. 

Horseshoe Crab Bag. 
How to Dry Starfish and Polish 

Shells. 
Marine Screen. 
Rowboat Book Shelves. 
Sea Urchin Vase and Candle- 
stick. 
Window Decorations. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Seasons, The. 
White. 

Season for Trapping. 
Gibson. 

Self-Setting Trap. 
Gibson. 



413 



Sequels to Mother Goose 
Rhymes. 
White. 

Shadow Pantomime. 
Hale. 

Shadow Pictures. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Shadow Picture. 
White. 

Shadow Verbs. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Ship, The. 

Kaye. 

Shooting and Poisoning. 
Gibson. 

Shouting Poets. 
Hale. 

Shouting Proverbs. 

Hale. 
Sieve Trap, The. 

Gibson. 
Sight Unseen. 

White. 
Silhouettes. 

White. 
Silhouettes in Disguise. 

White. 

Siamese Chess. 
Falkener. 

Simple Net Trap. 

Gibson. 
Skating. 
Lessons in Skating. 

Meagher, G. A. Dodd, Mead 
& Co. New York. 1901. $1.00. 
Begin to Learn Young. 
Cutting a Circle. 
On the Ice. 



Appendix 



Plain and Fancy Skating. 

The Bull Frog. 

The Danger of "Follow the 

Leader." 
The Grapevine Garland. 
To Spread Eagle. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 

A Country Rig. 
Bat Wings. 

The Cape Vincent Rig. 
The Danish Rig. 
The English Rig. 
The Norton Rig. . 
The Norwegian Rig. 
Winged Skaters and How to 
Make the Wings. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Skating. See also Ice Boats. 
Skeleton Story. 
Hale. 

Skunk, The. 
Gibson. 

Sleds. 
"Get There" and Double-Run- 
ner Sleds. 
A Safety Double-Runner. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 

Sleds, Chair Sleighs, and Snow 
Shoes. 

A Chair Sleigh. 
Folding Chair Sleigh. 
Snow Shoes or Skates. 
Toboggan. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Snowball Battle and Snow Tag. 
Rome and Carthage. 
Snowball Battle. 
Snow Tag. 
Outdoor Handy Book. 

Snowball Warfare. 
A Snow Battle. 
Company Rest. 
How to Build Snow Forts. 



How to Bind a Prisoner With- 
out Cord. 

How to Build the Fort. 

How to Make the Ammunition 
Sled. 

How to Make Shields and Am- 
munition Sleds. 

How to Make the Shield. 

Rules of the Game. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Snow House and Statuary. 
Snow Statuary. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Snow Shoes. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Snow Shoes. 
Gibson. 

Snowstorm, The. 
Valentine. 

Soap Bubbles. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Soap Bubbles. 
White. 

Every Boy His Own Bubble 

Pipe. 
Novelties in Soap Bubbles. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Songs for Several People. 

White. 
Sonnets. 

Hale. 

Spanish Backgammon. 

Hale. 
Spirits. 

White. 
Spoonful of Fun. 

White. 
Spring Net Trap. 

Gibson. 



414 



Appendix 



Spring Pole. 

Gibson. 
Squirrel, The. 

Gibson. 
Stage Coach. 

Hale. 
Steel Trap. 

Gibson. 
Stop. 

Hale. 
Stray Syllables. 

White. 
Stretchers. 

Gibson. 
Stuff and Nonsense. 

White. 
Stunning Muskrats and Fish. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 
Swaps. 

White. 
Sweet Fennel. 

Gibson. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Swimming. 
A Wooden "Swimming Master." 
Chump's Raft and Tub Races. 
Suspension Bridge. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 
Swimming. 
How to Swim. 

Dalton, D. Putnam. New 

York. 1899. $1.00. 

Symphonious Verses. 

Hale. 
Tableaux Vivants. 

Valentine. 

Tag, Games of. 
Black Man. 
Cross Tag. 



Iron Tag. 
King's X. 
Last Tag. 
Old Bloody Tom. 
Origin of this Sport. 
Prisoner's Base and Other Vari- 
ations. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 

Talking Shop. 
White. 

Tanning Skins. 
Gibson. 

Table^ The. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Tat Kettle Game. 
Hale. 

Tau Maharajah and Tau Se- 
poys. 

Falkener. 

Taxidermy for Boys. 

A New Manner of Preserving 

Fish. 
Design for Sketching Aquarium. 
How to Make Beautiful or 

Comical Groups and Designs of 

Insects. 
Marine Animals. 
Morse Insect Box. 
Preserving Insects. 
The Lawrence Breeding Box. 
Skinning. 
Spiders. 
StuiBng. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Teapot. 
White. 

Telegrams. 
White. 

Telephone. 
How to Make a Telephone. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 



415 



Appendix 



Tennis. 
Lessons in Lawn Tennis. 
Miles, E. H. Scribner's Sons. 
New York. 1899. 40c. 

Ten Pins. 

Hoyle. 
Tents. 

Gibson. 

Tent Carpeting. 
Gibson. 

Thanksgiving Tableaux and 
Games. 
A Suggestion. 

Devastation by the Indians. 
First Harvest. 

Impromptu Burlesque Tableaux. 
Landing of the Pilgrims. 
Peace and Plenty. 
Rebellion. 
Slavery. 

The Game of the Headless Tur- 
key. 
The Revolution. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Theatrical Adjectives. 

Hale. 
Theatrical Titles of Books. 

White. 
Three-Handed Whist. 

Hale. 
Three-Legged Race. 

Hale. 
Three Lives. 

Hale. 
Three Rhyming Game. 

White. 
Throw a Light. 

Hale. 
Tierce. 

Hale. 



Tip Cat. 

American Cat. 
Country Cat. 
English Cat. 
Outdoor Handy Book. 

Tobogganing, or the Indian 
Sledge. 
Gibson. 

TOPSY TURVY AND ChRISTMAS 

Party. 

White. 
Trades. 

White. 
Trail, The. 

Gibson. 

Trapping. 
Art of Trapping. 
Box Trap. 
Simple Net Trap. 
Gibson. 

Traps and Trapping. 
Figure-Four Mole Trap. 
Hen Coop Trap. 
Jug Trap. 
Partridge Snare. 
Rats. 

Set Line Snares. 
Spring Snare. 
The Mole and How to Trap 

Him. 
The Paper Pitfall. 
Tollgate Trap. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 

Trap Cage, The. 
Gibson. 

Trapper's Shelter, The. 
Gibson. 

Travelling Alphabet. 

Hale. 
Travelling Whist. 

Hale. 



416 



Appendix 



Triangle Tree Snare, The. 

Gibson. 
Trolley Car. 

White. 
Turtle Fishing With Suckers. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 
Turtle Hunting. 

Snappers and Terrapin. 

Outdoor Handy Book. 
'TWAS I. 

Hale. 
Twenty Questions. 

Hale. 
Twister Animals. 

White. 
Twitch Up, The. 

Gibson. 
Uncle Sam. 

Hale. 
Umbrella. 

Kaye. 
United States Mail. 

Hale. 
Universe in a Card Box. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 
Upright Net, The. 

Gibson. 

Uses of American Furs at Home 
and Abroad. 
Gibson. 
Useless Information. 

White. 
Valentine Party. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Ventriloquism. 

Practical Ventriloquism and Tts 
Sister Arts. 

Ganthony, R. Scribner's Sons. 
New York. $i.oo. 

4 



Verbarium. 
Hale. 

Vice Versa. 
White. 

Walking Club. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Washington's Birthday. 
White. 

Water Colors. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Water Telescope. 

How to Make a Wooden Water 
Telescope. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Wei Ki and Go. 
Falkener. 

What is My Thought Like? 
White. 

What is My Thought Like? 
Hale. 

What Will You Take to the 
Picnic? 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

What Would You Do If — ? 

White. 
Whirligigs. 
Potato Mill. 
Paradoxical Whirligig. 
Phantasmoscope. 
Rainbow Whirligig. 
Saw Mill. 

American Boy's Handy Book. 

Whispers. 

Hale. 
Whist. 

French Whist. 

Hoyle. 



17 



Appendix 



Standard Whist for Beginners. 
Ames, F. Scribner's Sons. 
New York. 1900. 75c. 

Laws and Principles of Whist. 
Jones, H. Scribner's Sons. 
New York. $1.50 and $2.00. 

Who Am I? 

Hale. 
Who Am I? 

White. 
Who Are You? . 

Hale. 
Who Is My Neighbor? 

White. 

WiGQLES. 

Hale. 
Wild Birds. 
Bluebirds. 

How to Rear Wild Birds. 
Humming Bird. 
Owls. 
Robins. 
Sea Birds, 
Squabs. 

Strange Domestic Fowls. 
The Bluejay. 
The Bobolink. 

The Brown Thrush or Thrasher. 
The Catbird. 
The Cow Blackbird. 
The Crow, Hawk, and Other 

Large Birds. 
The Hawk as a Scare Crow. 
The Hawk as a Decoy. 
The Summer Yellow Bird. 
The Wood Thrush. 
Thrushes. 
• Wrens, Sparrows, and Finches. 
Wrens and Other Small Birds. 
American Boy's Handy Book. 
Wild Cat, The. 

Gibson. 
Wild Duck Net, The. 
Gibson. 



Wild Flowers and Their Pres- 
ervation. 

Color of Flowers Changed. 

Crystallized Flowers. 

Cut Wild Flowers. 

How to Preserve the Perfume 
of Flowers. 

Leaves and Ferns for Decora- 
tion. 

Natural Wax Flowers. 

Preserved Flowers. 

Pressed Flowers and Leaves. 

Sending Flowers by Mail. 

Several Methods of Preserving 
Flowers. 

Spring Flowers in Winter. 

To Freshen Cut Flowers. 

The Four-Leaved Clover. 

Transplanting Wild Flowers. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Wild Goose Trap, The. 
Gibson. 

Window Decorations. 

Drapery of Very Small Scraps. 
Painting Window Panes. 
Painting on Lawn. 
Oriental Window Sash. 
Ribbon Curtain. 
To Imitate Stained Glass. 
Windows of Imitation Ground 
Glass. 
American Girl's Handy Book. 

Winter Landscape. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 

Wolf, The. 
Gibson. 

Wolverine, The. 
Gibson. 

WoMAN^s Book of Sports. 

Paret, J. P. D. Appleton & 
Co. New York. 1901. $1.00. 

WooDCHucK, The. 
Gibson. 



418 



Appendix 



Word- Ma KING. 

Hale. 
Wordy Word. 

White. 
Work Basket. 

American Girl's Handy Book. 
Wrestling. 
Handbook of Wrestling. 

Leonard, H. F. J. R Taylor 

& Co. New York. $3.00 and 

$5-00. 

Writing. 
Hale. 



Writing Ballads. 
Hale. 

Written Geography. 
Hale. 

Yachting. 

Franklin, A. C. Spon & 
Chamberlain. New York 
1900. 50C. 

Yachts and Yacht Handling. 
Day, T. F. Rudder Pub. Co 
New York. 1901. $1.00. 

Zoological Game. 
White. 



419 



JUL 99 1903 



31|77-2 



